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I was messing with my memory speeds and my pc crashed so I shut it off.  Tried to turn it on and every turns on but no signal to my monitor. I unplugged the psu and shorted the clrtc pin. That didn't work so I unplugged the cmos that didn't work.  This is my first build and really scared because most of the parts are used besides the gpu. 

Ryzen 2700x asus strix b450i mobo 16gb Warhawk ram @3200 and 2060 super from msi.  Please help. 

 

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unfortunately there are risks when overclocking too far, but I would do a full tear down and try rebuilding on the motherboard box as a makeshift test bench before writing the whole build off. You can hang the graphics card slot over the side.

Try booting with only one ram stick, swap sticks and see if that helps. Keep the build as simple as possible so you can guess what isn't working better. If you have a different power supply unit try with that. This makes it a lot easier to play with jumpers etc to reset cmos and pull off any suspected faulty parts. Once you get it working again reassemble, you may need to replace the ram or processor depending what you were doing with the voltages before the crash

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how long did you wait for the CMOS to drain power?

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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6 minutes ago, Jurrunio said:

how long did you wait for the CMOS to drain power?

there is a jumper that sits at the edge of the board towards the bottom of your ram sticks that you can use to clear your cmos, removing the battery might not work if you don't have it out long enough to let some capacitors drain

edit: re-reading your post I think you were referring to that rtc ram clear jumper. I still think testing with a single ram stick in the proper slot would be worth trying, and re-trying the jumper again wouldn't hurt.

Strangely enough I've had hardware come back to life just with a full tear down and rebuild when all else fails, which includes removing and reseating the processor.

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I tried reseating the CPU,  I've done one stick of memory at a time I've tried both of sticks one at time. I didn't mess the CPU voltage I just set it to level 2 in bios whish kept it at 4ghz at all times that was no problem for a month. It was when I realized that my memory was running at like 2133 in bios that I set it to the speed it was supposed to (3200) which was fine but then I got greedy and set it to 3433 and it was stable too for like a week and a half.  Then I did some digging and found out I should be at 3600 to get the most out of my cpu. So I download amds software and it set it to 3600. Restarted and it worked for like a minute then crashed. Couldn't get into windows but still posted. Then went in and turned it back to 3433 and back to windows where amds software tried to launch and crashed my pc. Now it won't post. Also if my ram or ram slots where bad would the sticks RGB still light up. 

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1 minute ago, sgt.jello said:

What is that 

integrated memory controller on your cpu

 

i don't know if that's the case, but if you've tried everything else, to me that seems like a possiblity.

i5-14600KF // 120x38MM Cooler Master AIO // B760i // 64GB DDR5 6000 // PNY RTX 5070 // Cooler Master NCORE 100 Max // Cooler Master V SFX-850 Gold // UWQHD AOC Display

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21 minutes ago, Mister Woof said:

integrated memory controller on your cpu

 

i don't know if that's the case, but if you've tried everything else, to me that seems like a possiblity.

34 minutes ago, Mister Woof said:

maybe imc went 

So in other words if that's what it is my CPU is just a paper weight now. 

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1 hour ago, sgt.jello said:

So in other words if that's what it is my CPU is just a paper weight now. 

i'd go over the other suggestions in this thread one or two more times.

 

in fact, maybe step away for a little while and come back at it with a fresh mind. sometimes you miss things when you start getting frustrated.

 

i can tell you i've solved " computer won't boot, don't know why" problems by taking everything apart and putting it back together.

i5-14600KF // 120x38MM Cooler Master AIO // B760i // 64GB DDR5 6000 // PNY RTX 5070 // Cooler Master NCORE 100 Max // Cooler Master V SFX-850 Gold // UWQHD AOC Display

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After unplugging, did you hit the power on button again to drain everything? Because there's some serious amount of residue charge left for quite a while. short the two pins for like 20-30s just to be safe.

 

If that doesn't help, unplug (if possible) the battery and let it sit like that for a while. 

 

If that doesn't help, try booting with one stick only. I have a crooked Z87 board around that sometimes refuses to boot. Clear CMOS doesn't help. Taking one stick of memory out, booting it up once and posting, shutting it down again and then putting in the other stick though works. And after that it keeps booting up - until it doesn't randomly. CPU is fine (works in a Z97 board flawlessly). Memory is fine (checked with memtest86 and no issues on the other board). Difference between the boards besides chipset: 4pin vs 8pin. Shouldn't be an issue. I've also checked the pins. 

 

So yes, a slightly compromised board might be weird.

 

Usually pushing it too far (clockwise not voltage wise) should not kill anything. Putting too much voltage on your chips might degrade it or just kill it instantly.

Use the quote function when answering! Mark people directly if you want an answer from them!

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