Water chiller help?

[Octavialicious]

Hi there, I was looking at using a water chiller for my new setup (thread ripper + radeon vii)

 

The one I was looking at was 1/4 HP, is that enough for the rig? I dont want sub zero or anything, just to be like <60C with some juicy overclocks.

 

Do I need a radiator in addition to the waterchiller? Or is it just the waterchiller, pump, and blocks in the loop?

 

 

thanks for the help yall

[rEkmAInc1csBnlM6C85H]

1/4HP thermoelectric? 1/4HP compressor? 1/4HP from Watts from BTUs?

 

Can we get more specs on the chiller unit?

[Octavialicious]

Just now, Andrew 1337 said:

1/4HP thermoelectric? 1/4HP compressor? 1/4HP from Watts from BTUs?

 

Can we get more specs on the chiller unit?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BHHP71C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

 

there is a 1/10 HP for cheaper but its not much more for 1/4, I dont know how much I need. I dont want freezing or anything, just sub like 60C

[Jurrunio]

1hp is 735w, so 1/4hp isn't even enough to pull a Radeon VII at full load below ambient temperature.

[Octavialicious]

Just now, Jurrunio said:

1hp is 735w, so 1/4hp isn't even enough to pull a Radeon VII at full load below ambient temperature.

I just want sub 60C

[Octavialicious]

also what kind of pump am i gonna need for this, im assuming a DDC wont be enough? would it work with another 2nd DDC or do I need a special big pump?

[Jurrunio]

1 minute ago, Octavialicious said:

I just want sub 60C

there are cheaper ways to do that

Radeon VII

Then get a 360mm rad AIO for TR. Might not hit 60C max load still but weak compressors like that are not worth your time for the temperature gain. If you're serious, get a 1HP unit that can pull the temperature close to ambient, say 35C.

[Octavialicious]

2 minutes ago, Jurrunio said:

there are cheaper ways to do that

Radeon VII

Then get a 360mm rad AIO for TR. Might not hit 60C max load still but weak compressors like that are not worth your time for the temperature gain. If you're serious, get a 1HP unit that can pull the temperature close to ambient, say 35C.

I wanna overclock the threadripper chip a lot, I had a 240mmx2 rad setup but i dont think thats enough so i thought waterchiller would be cool

[Jurrunio]

3 minutes ago, Octavialicious said:

I wanna overclock the threadripper chip a lot, I had a 240mmx2 rad setup but i dont think thats enough so i thought waterchiller would be cool

Dedicating both radiators for the CPU should do

[Bitter]

For $200 and freight you can get a 2100W lab grade chiller on eBay, I linked to one in the LTT video thread about the 500W TEC cooling.

[Octavialicious]

Just now, Bitter said:

For $200 and freight you can get a 2100W lab grade chiller on eBay, I linked to one in the LTT video thread about the 500W TEC cooling.

could u find it? idk how to get to it

[Bitter]

 

[AlexTheGreatish]

So if you want to overclock threadripper you have two basic options:

 

The Good Option: Just get a quality 360 or bigger radiator along with a good CPU block from EK or Alphacool.  You can probably max out the chip with this combo.

 

The Bad Option: Disassemble a window air conditioner, put the cold radiator in a cooler surrounded by anti-freeze. Pump antifreeze into your computer.  Basically do exactly what happens in this video.

[Bitter]

The bad choice is always the good choice, I always do the bad choice and it's always more fun even if it costs more or is more difficult that just makes it more rewarding in the end. Alex knows all about doing things the hard but more rewarding way!

[SolarNova]

On 10/4/2019 at 3:52 AM, Octavialicious said:

Hi there, I was looking at using a water chiller for my new setup (thread ripper + radeon vii)

 

The one I was looking at was 1/4 HP, is that enough for the rig? I dont want sub zero or anything, just to be like <60C with some juicy overclocks.

 

Do I need a radiator in addition to the waterchiller? Or is it just the waterchiller, pump, and blocks in the loop?

 

 

thanks for the help yall

No radiator. But a large external res would be helpful.

 

I've gone through a bunch of research for such builds, while my plan is to now go beyond this, here is what i discovered during my original chiller planning.

 

An aquarium water chiller is fine for PC cooling, they can be had cheap (relatively speaking), they are designed to run all the time turning on and of as needed, BUT they are not designed designed to be run constant under a heavy heat load.

As such using a large res, like a cooler box (picnic box, chiller box, beer cooler), as they are pre insulated, and have the chiller run a loop from the chiller to the rez set to keep the liquid at a set temp at ALL times, is a better idea than running the chiller directly to the PC.

You then build a normal PC loop minus the rads and have that loop go from the PC to the large res. That way the coolant is always chilled and ready for use.

 

The other reason u'd want a 2 stage loop is for coolant flow rates. Chillers like these are designed with high flow rates in mind, much higher than those in normal PC water loops, so it will work much better using a high flow aquarium pump from the chiller to the res, then use a normal PC loop with D5 pump(s) from PC to res, rather than having it all in a single loop using lower flow D5 pumps.

 

A chiller like those done by Hailea are fine, i'd recommend at least the HC500 which uses a 1/2 HP compressor. (estimated 790w cooling potential)

 

Most aquarium pumps have temp targets that stop at 4c, u can bypass it but that requires some DIY modding.

Also understand that if at anytime u want to try going subzero, chillers that use r134a refrigerant wont do very well as its a relatively high boiling point refrigerant at only -26c. An older/large chiller using r22 would be a better bet as it boils around -41c.

 

These chillers can be loud, so perhaps have it located in another room, attic, basement, even in an outdoor enclosure.

[Octavialicious]

4 hours ago, SolarNova said:

No radiator. But a large external res would be helpful.

 

I've gone through a bunch of research for such builds, while my plan is to now go beyond this, here is what i discovered during my original chiller planning.

 

An aquarium water chiller is fine for PC cooling, they can be had cheap (relatively speaking), they are designed to run all the time turning on and of as needed, BUT they are not designed designed to be run constant under a heavy heat load.

As such using a large res, like a cooler box (picnic box, chiller box, beer cooler), as they are pre insulated, and have the chiller run a loop from the chiller to the rez set to keep the liquid at a set temp at ALL times, is a better idea than running the chiller directly to the PC.

You then build a normal PC loop minus the rads and have that loop go from the PC to the large res. That way the coolant is always chilled and ready for use.

 

The other reason u'd want a 2 stage loop is for coolant flow rates. Chillers like these are designed with high flow rates in mind, much higher than those in normal PC water loops, so it will work much better using a high flow aquarium pump from the chiller to the res, then use a normal PC loop with D5 pump(s) from PC to res, rather than having it all in a single loop using lower flow D5 pumps.

 

A chiller like those done by Hailea are fine, i'd recommend at least the HC500 which uses a 1/2 HP compressor. (estimated 790w cooling potential)

 

Most aquarium pumps have temp targets that stop at 4c, u can bypass it but that requires some DIY modding.

Also understand that if at anytime u want to try going subzero, chillers that use r134a refrigerant wont do very well as its a relatively high boiling point refrigerant at only -26c. An older/large chiller using r22 would be a better bet as it boils around -41c.

 

These chillers can be loud, so perhaps have it located in another room, attic, basement, even in an outdoor enclosure.

ty for this, is hooking it straight up a death sentence or is it just not ideal? I'm in a pretty small space so idk if id have more room for a seperate loop

 

I'm also downsizing to a ryzen chip, so the heat output shouldnt be as much. I also dont even plan to set it that low, just something manageable. There are way better methods to get normal temps but I just thought using a chiller would be neat

 

Speaking im not going for super low temps do I need to use anything other than distilled water?

 

I'm going to try getting good flow like you said, I'm definitely using at least x2 of a D5 or DDC, or I guess I could use the little giant or whatever that linus used, I'm unsure

[SolarNova]

3 hours ago, Octavialicious said:

ty for this, is hooking it straight up a death sentence or is it just not ideal? I'm in a pretty small space so idk if id have more room for a seperate loop

 

I'm also downsizing to a ryzen chip, so the heat output shouldnt be as much. I also dont even plan to set it that low, just something manageable. There are way better methods to get normal temps but I just thought using a chiller would be neat

 

Speaking im not going for super low temps do I need to use anything other than distilled water?

 

I'm going to try getting good flow like you said, I'm definitely using at least x2 of a D5 or DDC, or I guess I could use the little giant or whatever that linus used, I'm unsure

So long as you dont OC to the point you NEED sub ambient temps to remain stable and safe core temps, you wont need to worry about having chilled coolant available at start up, so in that respect you CAN hook it up directly.

The only thing that will be happening is a lowered efficiency of the chiller as you simply wont have the flow rates required for best operation even if you stick multiple D5's , due to block restrictions.

While a D5 can theoretically have up to 1500 LPH  (5.5GPM) flow, thats with zero restriction. Most peoples PC loops aim and run at 1 GPM. Aquarium chillers usually advise at minimum 1200 LPH, more with bigger units, up to as high as 6000 LPH , which equals to about 4.4 GPM (up to 22 GPM) , alot higher than what u can expect a PC loop to be able to do even with multiple pumps.

 

Not saying u cant go direct, as its been done before, its just not ideal.

 

Coolant wise u can use your normal PC water loop coolants, be it a premix or distilled + biocide + inhibitor.

 

You wouldnt need lots of extra space for the 2nd loop. Just somthing like below.

[Octavialicious]

On 10/5/2019 at 6:09 PM, SolarNova said:

So long as you dont OC to the point you NEED sub ambient temps to remain stable and safe core temps, you wont need to worry about having chilled coolant available at start up, so in that respect you CAN hook it up directly.

The only thing that will be happening is a lowered efficiency of the chiller as you simply wont have the flow rates required for best operation even if you stick multiple D5's , due to block restrictions.

While a D5 can theoretically have up to 1500 LPH  (5.5GPM) flow, thats with zero restriction. Most peoples PC loops aim and run at 1 GPM. Aquarium chillers usually advise at minimum 1200 LPH, more with bigger units, up to as high as 6000 LPH , which equals to about 4.4 GPM (up to 22 GPM) , alot higher than what u can expect a PC loop to be able to do even with multiple pumps.

 

Not saying u cant go direct, as its been done before, its just not ideal.

 

Coolant wise u can use your normal PC water loop coolants, be it a premix or distilled + biocide + inhibitor.

 

You wouldnt need lots of extra space for the 2nd loop. Just somthing like below.

 

Can you use a premixed fluid or does it have to be water?

[SolarNova]

7 hours ago, Octavialicious said:

Can you use a premixed fluid or does it have to be water?

It can be a premix.

 

 

[Octavialicious]

On 10/7/2019 at 6:18 AM, SolarNova said:

It can be a premix.

 

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07BHHP71C/ref=ox_sc_act_image_9?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

 

What metal is in there? It says titanium heat exchanger, is that where the water touches? so how does that work with copper? I'm worried I don't want any corrosion 

 

should I try getting nickel plated stuff? 

[SolarNova]

9 hours ago, Octavialicious said:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07BHHP71C/ref=ox_sc_act_image_9?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

 

What metal is in there? It says titanium heat exchanger, is that where the water touches? so how does that work with copper? I'm worried I don't want any corrosion 

 

should I try getting nickel plated stuff? 

 

Titanium is fine with copper. Its on the same galvanic index as Nickel.

 

They use Titanium due to its safety with fish and the like in aquariums. Copper will eventual poison/damage gills etc so it is generally avoided.

 

Still, just like with ANY water loop, u will want some kind of inhibitor in the coolant.

 

:NOTE: The link u gave advertises r410a refrigerant which is good as it has a low boiling point of -48c, however the manufacturer sites and other information indicate they use the inferior but widely used and cheap r 134a which boils at a relatively high -26c. I would try to get clarification on what it actually uses, i would personally want the r410a.