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GPU caught fire, cant enter mobo bios

Jettesnell

Had a rather eventful evening with my pc. 

So, have a bit of info to share before getting to the issue. I got two computers, one that I use as my personal, and another one used as a server for a minecraft and gmod server, just a little hobby thing with friends. 

 

Now, my own pc dies while I was sleeping, as I started troubleshooting I came to the conclusion that my psu had died. I got worried that other parts might've gotten damaged, so i took the psu from the server pc and used it in my own to see if anything broke. Everything seemed to work fine and the pc booted without any issues. 

Due to me being a bit low on funds, I decided to just switch over and use the server pc as my main one, still treat it as a server, but add my gpu into it so I could at least join up and play with friends occasionally. This would be my temp solution until I had saved up for a fully new pc, my old pc needed an upgrade on ever part anyways. 

I decided to rebuild the server into my own case, as that case was a lot better and I could add some more fans. Moving everything over went smoothly and I felt confident that everything was done correctly. 

 

As I booted it up, the gpu caught fire instantly. Luckily I had the side panel off and quick access to a switch to break all power. I instantly did it, blew the tiny fire out and removed the gpu. On the surface nothing looked damaged, not even the gpu but it did have a burnt electricity smell. 

I decided to try and boot the pc up without the gpu, and as a relief I saw everything boot up, all fans turned on, screen turned on and no weird beeping sounds were made. Sadly thats where the next issue came. The pc now gets to the manufacture boot screen (asus in my case) and the instructions on how to enter bios shows up. After that nothing happens, it freezes in that screen. It wont boot up automatically, and I cant enter the bios as I get no reaction when pressing the keys on my keyboard. The keyboard do light up so I know its connected. After looking more closely on the mobo I can see the boot_device_led is glowing red.

 

After a lot of googling I have tried using other ram sticks, remove the cmos battery, boot without hdd, switch keyboard and usb ports, nothing. The pc still boots normally to the point of the asus windows, but after that it freezes and the boot device led turn on with a red light.

 

Any idea on what might be wrong? Can it possibly be fixed?

 

CPU: Intel Core i7 4790k
MOBO: ASUS Z97-a
RAM: 4x 4 GB Corsair Vengence 1 600 MHz
GPU: EVGA GTX 960 SC
PSU: Corsair VS 650

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unfortunately, a fire in your pc is never a good sign. it is usually caused by a short circuit or a large voltage surge. either ways it may have burnt or fried pcb traces in places more than your gpu. I would first start by throwing the GPU out of the window and replacing the motherboard. PSU seems pretty old so consider using a new one too.

Main Rig: CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 9 3950X Processor (Stock, -0.1V offset)  /// Motherboard: Asus Pro WS X570-Ace /// CPU Cooler: Deepcool GamerStorm Castle 360 RGB V2 /// GPU: Gigabyte AORUS GeForce® RTX 2080 SUPER™ 8G /// RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V 128GB (4x32GB) 3200Mhz CL16 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Define R6 USB-C Blackout TG /// PSU: Corsair RM850i /// Storage: 500GB Samsung 970 EVO Plus NVMe (boot) + 1TB WD Black SN750 NVMe (Working Drive) + 2x 1TB Samsung 850 EVO 2.5" SATA SSD RAID0 (Game Library) + 2TB Seagate BarraCuda (Backup) /// OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Peripherals (Main Rig): Mouse: Logitech MX Master 3 + Logitech G903 Lightspeed /// Keyboard: Keychron Q1 ANSI - JWK Lavender Linear Switches (TX Switch Film, Krytox 205g0), Durock V2 Stabilisers, Polycarbonate Plate, Tape Mod, GMK Blue Samurai + Keychron K4 V2 Hotswap RGB Aluminum Frame - Gateron Milky Black (Deskeys Switch Film, Krytox 205g0), Foam Mod, Tape Mod, GMK Rainy Day PBT Clones /// Tablet: Wacom Intuos M BT /// Monitor: 4x LG 27UL500-W (4K IPS Freesync) /// DAC: Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 /// Speakers: Logitech Z625 /// Mic: Focusrite CM25 MkII /// Headphones: Audio-Technica ATH-M50x, ATH-LS70iS IEMs /// Racing Wheel: Logitech G920 Driving Force with Shifter /// Eye Tracker: Steelseries Sentry  /// External Drives: 500GB Samsung T5 SSD (Working Drive)

 

Home Server - NASty: CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 7 2700x Processor /// Motherboard: Asus PRIME X470-Pro  /// CPU Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 /// GPU: Gigabyte GeForce® GT 1030 OC 2G /// RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 64GB (4x16GB) 3200Mhz CL16 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Define R5 Window /// PSU: Corsair RM750x /// Storage: LSI SAS 9211-8i (IT Mode) + 10x 4TB Seagate Exos Enterprise Drive /// OS: UNRaid

 

Tester Rig: CPU: AMD Athlon™ 200GE Processor /// Motherboard: Asus ROG Crosshair VI Hero WIFI  /// CPU Cooler: AMD Wraith Prism RGB /// GPU: Palit GeForce® GTX 1050 2GB StromX /// RAM: Klevv Bolt 8GB (1x8GB) 3000Mhz CL15 /// Chassis: The AMAZING $30 "Computer Case"! /// PSU: Seasonic Focus GX-750 /// Storage: 1TB Samsung 860 EVO 2.5" SATA SSD + 240GB Transcend SSD220S 2.5" SATA SSD /// OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Laptop (Asus UX430UN): CPU: Intel® Core™ i7-8550U Processor  /// GPU: NVIDIA GeForce MX150 /// RAM: 16GB 2133Mhz /// Storage: 512GB SanDisk SD8SN8U512G1002 (boot) /// OS: Windows 10 Home

 

Other Tech: Console: Xbox One S 1TB, Apple TV 4K /// Printer: Canon imageCLASS MF635Cx /// Phone: Apple iPhone 12 Pro Max 256GB Graphite (Daily Driver)  /// Tablet: Apple iPad 9.7-inch Wi-Fi (2018) 32GB + Apple Pencil (1st Generation) /// Headphones: Apple Airpods Pro, Sony WF-1000XM3, Sony WH-1000XM3 /// Smartwatch: Apple Watch Series 6 GPS Space Grey

 

Cameras: Bodies: Canon EOS-1D X Mark II, Canon EOS 5D Mark IV,  Sony A6000 /// Lenses: Canon EF 24-70mm F/2.8L USM, Canon EF 16-35mm F/2.8L II USM, Canon EF 70-200mm F/2.8L IS II USM, Tamron SP 150-600mm F/5-6.3 Di VC USD G2 (Canon), Sony SEL-P1650 E 16-50mm F3.5-5.6 PZ OSS /// Lighting: 2x Godox SL60-W Continuous LED, 2x Canon Speedlite 580EXII /// Tripods: Leofoto LS-324C Carbon Fiber Tripod + Leofoto LH-40 Ballhead, Leofoto MC-80 Multipurpose Clamp, Triopo DG-3 Gimbal Head /// Yes, I am a Canon Fanboy, deal with it

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7 minutes ago, berwynhan said:

unfortunately, a fire in your pc is never a good sign. it is usually caused by a short circuit or a large voltage surge. either ways it may have burnt or fried pcb traces in places more than your gpu. I would first start by throwing the GPU out of the window and replacing the motherboard. PSU seems pretty old so consider using a new one too.

Thank you very much for the quick reply, really appreciate you taking the time and trying to assist me! 

While the PSU might be an old and cheap model, it still quite new as I bought it 2 months ago. Everything else is rather old, just spare parts me and a friend and lying around. Felt bad if the mobo broke since that was not mine originally. 

But is there a way to tell if the PCB traces fried? I mean, it's rather confusing and hard to tell since everything start up rather normally. I can upload a video on it if that would help. 

 

Once again, thank you for replying. 

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26 minutes ago, Jettesnell said:

Thank you very much for the quick reply, really appreciate you taking the time and trying to assist me! 

While the PSU might be an old and cheap model, it still quite new as I bought it 2 months ago. Everything else is rather old, just spare parts me and a friend and lying around. Felt bad if the mobo broke since that was not mine originally. 

But is there a way to tell if the PCB traces fried? I mean, it's rather confusing and hard to tell since everything start up rather normally. I can upload a video on it if that would help. 

 

Once again, thank you for replying. 

some pcb traces are hard to see as they may be covered by some mobo components etc. but you can use a torchlight and shine along traces and look for burn marks. that is the easiest way to tell afaik.

Main Rig: CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 9 3950X Processor (Stock, -0.1V offset)  /// Motherboard: Asus Pro WS X570-Ace /// CPU Cooler: Deepcool GamerStorm Castle 360 RGB V2 /// GPU: Gigabyte AORUS GeForce® RTX 2080 SUPER™ 8G /// RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V 128GB (4x32GB) 3200Mhz CL16 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Define R6 USB-C Blackout TG /// PSU: Corsair RM850i /// Storage: 500GB Samsung 970 EVO Plus NVMe (boot) + 1TB WD Black SN750 NVMe (Working Drive) + 2x 1TB Samsung 850 EVO 2.5" SATA SSD RAID0 (Game Library) + 2TB Seagate BarraCuda (Backup) /// OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Peripherals (Main Rig): Mouse: Logitech MX Master 3 + Logitech G903 Lightspeed /// Keyboard: Keychron Q1 ANSI - JWK Lavender Linear Switches (TX Switch Film, Krytox 205g0), Durock V2 Stabilisers, Polycarbonate Plate, Tape Mod, GMK Blue Samurai + Keychron K4 V2 Hotswap RGB Aluminum Frame - Gateron Milky Black (Deskeys Switch Film, Krytox 205g0), Foam Mod, Tape Mod, GMK Rainy Day PBT Clones /// Tablet: Wacom Intuos M BT /// Monitor: 4x LG 27UL500-W (4K IPS Freesync) /// DAC: Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 /// Speakers: Logitech Z625 /// Mic: Focusrite CM25 MkII /// Headphones: Audio-Technica ATH-M50x, ATH-LS70iS IEMs /// Racing Wheel: Logitech G920 Driving Force with Shifter /// Eye Tracker: Steelseries Sentry  /// External Drives: 500GB Samsung T5 SSD (Working Drive)

 

Home Server - NASty: CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 7 2700x Processor /// Motherboard: Asus PRIME X470-Pro  /// CPU Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 /// GPU: Gigabyte GeForce® GT 1030 OC 2G /// RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 64GB (4x16GB) 3200Mhz CL16 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Define R5 Window /// PSU: Corsair RM750x /// Storage: LSI SAS 9211-8i (IT Mode) + 10x 4TB Seagate Exos Enterprise Drive /// OS: UNRaid

 

Tester Rig: CPU: AMD Athlon™ 200GE Processor /// Motherboard: Asus ROG Crosshair VI Hero WIFI  /// CPU Cooler: AMD Wraith Prism RGB /// GPU: Palit GeForce® GTX 1050 2GB StromX /// RAM: Klevv Bolt 8GB (1x8GB) 3000Mhz CL15 /// Chassis: The AMAZING $30 "Computer Case"! /// PSU: Seasonic Focus GX-750 /// Storage: 1TB Samsung 860 EVO 2.5" SATA SSD + 240GB Transcend SSD220S 2.5" SATA SSD /// OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Laptop (Asus UX430UN): CPU: Intel® Core™ i7-8550U Processor  /// GPU: NVIDIA GeForce MX150 /// RAM: 16GB 2133Mhz /// Storage: 512GB SanDisk SD8SN8U512G1002 (boot) /// OS: Windows 10 Home

 

Other Tech: Console: Xbox One S 1TB, Apple TV 4K /// Printer: Canon imageCLASS MF635Cx /// Phone: Apple iPhone 12 Pro Max 256GB Graphite (Daily Driver)  /// Tablet: Apple iPad 9.7-inch Wi-Fi (2018) 32GB + Apple Pencil (1st Generation) /// Headphones: Apple Airpods Pro, Sony WF-1000XM3, Sony WH-1000XM3 /// Smartwatch: Apple Watch Series 6 GPS Space Grey

 

Cameras: Bodies: Canon EOS-1D X Mark II, Canon EOS 5D Mark IV,  Sony A6000 /// Lenses: Canon EF 24-70mm F/2.8L USM, Canon EF 16-35mm F/2.8L II USM, Canon EF 70-200mm F/2.8L IS II USM, Tamron SP 150-600mm F/5-6.3 Di VC USD G2 (Canon), Sony SEL-P1650 E 16-50mm F3.5-5.6 PZ OSS /// Lighting: 2x Godox SL60-W Continuous LED, 2x Canon Speedlite 580EXII /// Tripods: Leofoto LS-324C Carbon Fiber Tripod + Leofoto LH-40 Ballhead, Leofoto MC-80 Multipurpose Clamp, Triopo DG-3 Gimbal Head /// Yes, I am a Canon Fanboy, deal with it

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Well I solved it somehow.

I had the keyboard connected before when I tried to start the pc, once I removed it, the pc suddenly worked.. I guess it thought my keyboard was a bootable usb, and it just got stuck in a loop or something. My gpu is probably toasted, not even gonna try it, but every other part seems undamaged. 

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