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My computer shuts down without warning in the middle of games

I recently build a new pc with the help of someone and it works great, but sometimes it just shuts off in the middle of a game and there is not like a blue screen or anything. If it shut down then I have to flick the switch at the back of the power supply on and off and only then it will boot up again and then everything is normal again and the pc works fine after that. 

I don't think that it is overheating, because:

Cpu temprature on idle: Around 37 degrees celcius
Cpu temprature while gaming at max: 80 degrees celcius

Gpu temprature on idle: Around 30 degrees celcius
Gpu temprature while gaming at max: 80 degrees celcius

One thing that I did notice is that it does not shut down while playing Grand Theft Auto V. And that it shuts down the quickest in CSGO. 

My Pc specs: 

Cpu: Amd Ryzen 5 2600
Gpu: Gigabyte Aorus RX 580 8gb
Power supply: EVGA 500W
Motherboard: Asus prime B450M-A
Ram: Corsair vengeance 16gb (2 x 8 gb) ddr4 3000mhz
SSD: Crucial MX500 1TB
Case: Sharkoon VG5-W (Blue)

Does anyone know what it could possibly be that makes it shut down during games? Please let me know. 
 

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4 minutes ago, Damian026 said:

Please let me know. 

Not enough power.

NOTE: I no longer frequent this site. If you really need help, PM/DM me and my e.mail will alert me. 

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I had similar issue after a built a new Ryzen PC. 

My PC shut down only when I played Apex but otherwise it was working fine. 

I found out the RAM was the cause... but because of a BIOS setting. 

The default setting in BIOS regarding the amount of current supplied to RAM was too low. 

I had to increase it. 

 

Now I have an ASUS motherboard and it was located in power setting and the default value was 100% which I changed to 130%.

 

I have no idea if you have this option in the BIOS or if you are even experiencing the exact same issue as I did. 

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24 minutes ago, Damian026 said:

I recently build a new pc with the help of someone and it works great, but sometimes it just shuts off in the middle of a game and there is not like a blue screen or anything. If it shut down then I have to flick the switch at the back of the power supply on and off and only then it will boot up again and then everything is normal again and the pc works fine after that. 

I don't think that it is overheating, because:

Cpu temprature on idle: Around 37 degrees celcius
Cpu temprature while gaming at max: 80 degrees celcius

Gpu temprature on idle: Around 30 degrees celcius
Gpu temprature while gaming at max: 80 degrees celcius

One thing that I did notice is that it does not shut down while playing Grand Theft Auto V. And that it shuts down the quickest in CSGO. 

My Pc specs: 

Cpu: Amd Ryzen 5 2600
Gpu: Gigabyte Aorus RX 580 8gb
Power supply: EVGA 500W
Motherboard: Asus prime B450M-A
Ram: Corsair vengeance 16gb (2 x 8 gb) ddr4 3000mhz
SSD: Crucial MX500 1TB
Case: Sharkoon VG5-W (Blue)

Does anyone know what it could possibly be that makes it shut down during games? Please let me know. 
 

It is def a PSU issue IMO.  The PSU cant give the GPU enough juice so it or is botched.  If it was motherboard or CPU or RAM it wouldnt just shut off.  Unless your reaching TJmax on your CPU and what not.

Asus Sabertooth x79 / 4930k @ 4500 @ 1.408v / Gigabyte WF 2080 RTX / Corsair VG 64GB @ 1866 & AX1600i & H115i Pro @ 2x Noctua NF-A14 / Carbide 330r Blackout

Scarlett 2i2 Audio Interface / KRK Rokits 10" / Sennheiser HD 650 / Logitech G Pro Wireless Mouse & G915 Linear & G935 & C920 / SL 88 Grand / Cakewalk / NF-A14 Int P12 Ex
AOC 40" 4k Curved / LG 55" OLED C9 120hz / LaCie Porsche Design 2TB & 500GB / Samsung 950 Pro 500GB / 850 Pro 500GB / Crucial m4 500GB / Asus M.2 Card

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38 minutes ago, WereCat said:

I had similar issue after a built a new Ryzen PC. 

My PC shut down only when I played Apex but otherwise it was working fine. 

I found out the RAM was the cause... but because of a BIOS setting. 

The default setting in BIOS regarding the amount of current supplied to RAM was too low. 

I had to increase it. 

 

Now I have an ASUS motherboard and it was located in power setting and the default value was 100% which I changed to 130%.

 

I have no idea if you have this option in the BIOS or if you are even experiencing the exact same issue as I did. 

One thing that I do notice in the BIOS is that it says that my ram is clocked at 2133mhz, but the RAM should be 3000mhz

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29 minutes ago, Turtle Rig said:

It is def a PSU issue IMO.  The PSU cant give the GPU enough juice so it or is botched.  If it was motherboard or CPU or RAM it wouldnt just shut off.  Unless your reaching TJmax on your CPU and what not.

Well I don't think it's botched because I bought it like new. And if the GPU did not get enough power then how can it play GTA V on very high settings without shutting down and why does it shut down CSGO in like 5 minutes into playing?

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Oh and one other thing my motherboard has this orange blinking light on like most of the time. At first I thought it was aurasync but I disabled that in the BIOS and it's still blinking

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1 minute ago, Damian026 said:

Well I don't think it's botched because I bought it like new. And if the GPU did not get enough power then how can it play GTA V on very high settings without shutting down and why does it shut down CSGO in like 5 minutes into playing?

Good valid points my friend...  GTA5 and CS:GO which are polar opposites in the engine they use as CS:GO is from last decade and GTA is more recent.  I suggest running DDU "Display Driver Uninstaller" in safe mode and do a clean and restart.  Now back into Windows install the latest WHQL video card drivers and let us know. 

Asus Sabertooth x79 / 4930k @ 4500 @ 1.408v / Gigabyte WF 2080 RTX / Corsair VG 64GB @ 1866 & AX1600i & H115i Pro @ 2x Noctua NF-A14 / Carbide 330r Blackout

Scarlett 2i2 Audio Interface / KRK Rokits 10" / Sennheiser HD 650 / Logitech G Pro Wireless Mouse & G915 Linear & G935 & C920 / SL 88 Grand / Cakewalk / NF-A14 Int P12 Ex
AOC 40" 4k Curved / LG 55" OLED C9 120hz / LaCie Porsche Design 2TB & 500GB / Samsung 950 Pro 500GB / 850 Pro 500GB / Crucial m4 500GB / Asus M.2 Card

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Just now, Damian026 said:

Oh and one other thing my motherboard has this orange blinking light on like most of the time. At first I thought it was aurasync but I disabled that in the BIOS and it's still blinking

That is not a good sign.  Can you tell me which part of the motherboard this flashing light is coming on.  Near RAM sticks or CPU ?  Usually if its botched it should be a red light, not orange, that is interesting.

Asus Sabertooth x79 / 4930k @ 4500 @ 1.408v / Gigabyte WF 2080 RTX / Corsair VG 64GB @ 1866 & AX1600i & H115i Pro @ 2x Noctua NF-A14 / Carbide 330r Blackout

Scarlett 2i2 Audio Interface / KRK Rokits 10" / Sennheiser HD 650 / Logitech G Pro Wireless Mouse & G915 Linear & G935 & C920 / SL 88 Grand / Cakewalk / NF-A14 Int P12 Ex
AOC 40" 4k Curved / LG 55" OLED C9 120hz / LaCie Porsche Design 2TB & 500GB / Samsung 950 Pro 500GB / 850 Pro 500GB / Crucial m4 500GB / Asus M.2 Card

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40 minutes ago, Turtle Rig said:

It is def a PSU issue IMO.  The PSU cant give the GPU enough juice so it or is botched.  If it was motherboard or CPU or RAM it wouldnt just shut off.  Unless your reaching TJmax on your CPU and what not.

Will have to be a really shitty PSU to not push enough power. A heavily OCed 6c/12t Xeon with 1.45v on the core plus a max power target MSI gaming X 1080 Ti struggle to pull over 553W in the nastiest synthetic tests, an R5 2600 and 580 8GB will be fine on 500W so long as it's a decent PSU and not failing in other places. 
 

5 minutes ago, Turtle Rig said:

That is not a good sign.  Can you tell me which part of the motherboard this flashing light is coming on.  Near RAM sticks or CPU ?  Usually if its botched it should be a red light, not orange, that is interesting.

Did you check the manual to be sure that's a bad sign (I'm about to)? Or are you talking out your ass again? I have like 15 lights on my X99 Classified, them being on is good. 

Intel HEDT and Server platform enthusiasts: Intel HEDT Xeon/i7 Megathread 

 

Main PC 

CPU: i9 7980XE @4.5GHz/1.22v/-2 AVX offset 

Cooler: EKWB Supremacy Block - custom loop w/360mm +280mm rads 

Motherboard: EVGA X299 Dark 

RAM:4x8GB HyperX Predator DDR4 @3200Mhz CL16 

GPU: Nvidia FE 2060 Super/Corsair HydroX 2070 FE block 

Storage:  1TB MP34 + 1TB 970 Evo + 500GB Atom30 + 250GB 960 Evo 

Optical Drives: LG WH14NS40 

PSU: EVGA 1600W T2 

Case & Fans: Corsair 750D Airflow - 3x Noctua iPPC NF-F12 + 4x Noctua iPPC NF-A14 PWM 

OS: Windows 11

 

Display: LG 27UK650-W (4K 60Hz IPS panel)

Mouse: EVGA X17

Keyboard: Corsair K55 RGB

 

Mobile/Work Devices: 2020 M1 MacBook Air (work computer) - iPhone 13 Pro Max - Apple Watch S3

 

Other Misc Devices: iPod Video (Gen 5.5E, 128GB SD card swap, running Rockbox), Nintendo Switch

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13 minutes ago, Damian026 said:

Oh and one other thing my motherboard has this orange blinking light on like most of the time. At first I thought it was aurasync but I disabled that in the BIOS and it's still blinking

Probably the HDD light: 

1866375694_ScreenShot2019-08-09at1_03_41PM.png.60c590d27dbc6bee7ef6d0681006e906.png

 

Would need to know where it is on the board to see if it's one of the error LEDs, those are often in a group on the right edge of the board somewhere. 

Intel HEDT and Server platform enthusiasts: Intel HEDT Xeon/i7 Megathread 

 

Main PC 

CPU: i9 7980XE @4.5GHz/1.22v/-2 AVX offset 

Cooler: EKWB Supremacy Block - custom loop w/360mm +280mm rads 

Motherboard: EVGA X299 Dark 

RAM:4x8GB HyperX Predator DDR4 @3200Mhz CL16 

GPU: Nvidia FE 2060 Super/Corsair HydroX 2070 FE block 

Storage:  1TB MP34 + 1TB 970 Evo + 500GB Atom30 + 250GB 960 Evo 

Optical Drives: LG WH14NS40 

PSU: EVGA 1600W T2 

Case & Fans: Corsair 750D Airflow - 3x Noctua iPPC NF-F12 + 4x Noctua iPPC NF-A14 PWM 

OS: Windows 11

 

Display: LG 27UK650-W (4K 60Hz IPS panel)

Mouse: EVGA X17

Keyboard: Corsair K55 RGB

 

Mobile/Work Devices: 2020 M1 MacBook Air (work computer) - iPhone 13 Pro Max - Apple Watch S3

 

Other Misc Devices: iPod Video (Gen 5.5E, 128GB SD card swap, running Rockbox), Nintendo Switch

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your system unless you are overvolting and overclocking everything heavily should be fine on 500 watts. highest power draw i can find recorded on a 580 is ~250 watts on a factory overclock. 

 

It is possible the power supply is messed up and tripping its voltage protection early though. if you have another psu or one you can borrow i would try that. barring that hit a bestbuy or amazon to grab a new psu to try. if it fixes the issue great, if not then return it. 

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6 minutes ago, Zando Bob said:

Probably the HDD light: 

1866375694_ScreenShot2019-08-09at1_03_41PM.png.60c590d27dbc6bee7ef6d0681006e906.png

 

Would need to know where it is on the board to see if it's one of the error LEDs, those are often in a group on the right edge of the board somewhere. 

But I only have an SSD

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1 minute ago, Damian026 said:

But I only have an SSD

its calling it an hdd but likely just detecting communication with a sata port or NVME slot 

 

I have no hdd in my pc either and it still lights up the hdd indicator when accessing data 

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4 minutes ago, G00fySmiley said:

your system unless you are overvolting and overclocking everything heavily should be fine on 500 watts. highest power draw i can find recorded on a 580 is ~250 watts on a factory overclock. 

 

It is possible the power supply is messed up and tripping its voltage protection early though. if you have another psu or one you can borrow i would try that. barring that hit a bestbuy or amazon to grab a new psu to try. if it fixes the issue great, if not then return it. 

On one game that shut down rather quickly I toned down the settings and now it still shuts down but it doesn't do it as often, im like very confused at this point

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2 minutes ago, Damian026 said:

On one game that shut down rather quickly I toned down the settings and now it still shuts down but it doesn't do it as often, im like very confused at this point

try a synthetic benchmark to max out your GPU, run HW monitor and see what its drawing and if it shuts down. if so then its when system is maxing out.  

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9 minutes ago, Damian026 said:

But I only have an SSD

SATA or M.2? The HDD light likely goes off the SATA ports, may work for M.2 drives as well (my PCIe add-in cards have activity lights for both my M.2 NVMe 960 Evo and M.2 SATA WD Blue). Do you have a pic of the mobo powered on so I can see where the lights and such are? Or else just look closely, there's normally a name next to the various components that is either easy to decipher or find in the manual. 

Intel HEDT and Server platform enthusiasts: Intel HEDT Xeon/i7 Megathread 

 

Main PC 

CPU: i9 7980XE @4.5GHz/1.22v/-2 AVX offset 

Cooler: EKWB Supremacy Block - custom loop w/360mm +280mm rads 

Motherboard: EVGA X299 Dark 

RAM:4x8GB HyperX Predator DDR4 @3200Mhz CL16 

GPU: Nvidia FE 2060 Super/Corsair HydroX 2070 FE block 

Storage:  1TB MP34 + 1TB 970 Evo + 500GB Atom30 + 250GB 960 Evo 

Optical Drives: LG WH14NS40 

PSU: EVGA 1600W T2 

Case & Fans: Corsair 750D Airflow - 3x Noctua iPPC NF-F12 + 4x Noctua iPPC NF-A14 PWM 

OS: Windows 11

 

Display: LG 27UK650-W (4K 60Hz IPS panel)

Mouse: EVGA X17

Keyboard: Corsair K55 RGB

 

Mobile/Work Devices: 2020 M1 MacBook Air (work computer) - iPhone 13 Pro Max - Apple Watch S3

 

Other Misc Devices: iPod Video (Gen 5.5E, 128GB SD card swap, running Rockbox), Nintendo Switch

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5 minutes ago, Zando Bob said:

SATA or M.2? The HDD light likely goes off the SATA ports, may work for M.2 drives as well (my PCIe add-in cards have activity lights for both my M.2 NVMe 960 Evo and M.2 SATA WD Blue). Do you have a pic of the mobo powered on so I can see where the lights and such are? Or else just look closely, there's normally a name next to the various components that is either easy to decipher or find in the manual. 

It's a sata ssd i think its 2.5 inches

20190809_202613.jpg

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2 minutes ago, Damian026 said:

It's a sata ssd i think its 2.5 inches

-snip-

Oh, those lights are just for aesthetics on the PCIe slot and Audio stuff. 

700990629_ScreenShot2019-08-09at1_29_51PM.png.7de6315c5b2c082bb90ac09189625222.png

Intel HEDT and Server platform enthusiasts: Intel HEDT Xeon/i7 Megathread 

 

Main PC 

CPU: i9 7980XE @4.5GHz/1.22v/-2 AVX offset 

Cooler: EKWB Supremacy Block - custom loop w/360mm +280mm rads 

Motherboard: EVGA X299 Dark 

RAM:4x8GB HyperX Predator DDR4 @3200Mhz CL16 

GPU: Nvidia FE 2060 Super/Corsair HydroX 2070 FE block 

Storage:  1TB MP34 + 1TB 970 Evo + 500GB Atom30 + 250GB 960 Evo 

Optical Drives: LG WH14NS40 

PSU: EVGA 1600W T2 

Case & Fans: Corsair 750D Airflow - 3x Noctua iPPC NF-F12 + 4x Noctua iPPC NF-A14 PWM 

OS: Windows 11

 

Display: LG 27UK650-W (4K 60Hz IPS panel)

Mouse: EVGA X17

Keyboard: Corsair K55 RGB

 

Mobile/Work Devices: 2020 M1 MacBook Air (work computer) - iPhone 13 Pro Max - Apple Watch S3

 

Other Misc Devices: iPod Video (Gen 5.5E, 128GB SD card swap, running Rockbox), Nintendo Switch

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Oh and my gpu just flashed one time like one blink from the corner like a white blink

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3 minutes ago, Damian026 said:

Oh and my gpu just flashed one time like one blink from the corner like a white blink

Probably another sort of status light or something. So it doesn't shut down in GTA V, but does in other games? That's weird because if it were a load issue you'd think GTA V would crash it the fastest. Have you ever updated the BIOS? I'd clear the CMOS first (to make sure it's 100% clear, turn off the PSU and remove the CMOS battery from the mobo, then hold down the power button for 10-15 seconds and let it sit for about 10 minutes). Then update the BIOS, install the chipset drivers, run DDU and then clean install the GPU drivers to rule those out. Next step after that would be to reseat the GPU and RAM and possibly the CPU, sometimes they can just be randomly funky and a reseat fixes them. 

 

Highly doubt it's a PSU issue because like I said, GTA V will push your system a lot harder than CS:GO so if the PSU was bad enough it struggled to output power properly it'd crash on that for sure. 

Intel HEDT and Server platform enthusiasts: Intel HEDT Xeon/i7 Megathread 

 

Main PC 

CPU: i9 7980XE @4.5GHz/1.22v/-2 AVX offset 

Cooler: EKWB Supremacy Block - custom loop w/360mm +280mm rads 

Motherboard: EVGA X299 Dark 

RAM:4x8GB HyperX Predator DDR4 @3200Mhz CL16 

GPU: Nvidia FE 2060 Super/Corsair HydroX 2070 FE block 

Storage:  1TB MP34 + 1TB 970 Evo + 500GB Atom30 + 250GB 960 Evo 

Optical Drives: LG WH14NS40 

PSU: EVGA 1600W T2 

Case & Fans: Corsair 750D Airflow - 3x Noctua iPPC NF-F12 + 4x Noctua iPPC NF-A14 PWM 

OS: Windows 11

 

Display: LG 27UK650-W (4K 60Hz IPS panel)

Mouse: EVGA X17

Keyboard: Corsair K55 RGB

 

Mobile/Work Devices: 2020 M1 MacBook Air (work computer) - iPhone 13 Pro Max - Apple Watch S3

 

Other Misc Devices: iPod Video (Gen 5.5E, 128GB SD card swap, running Rockbox), Nintendo Switch

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3 minutes ago, Zando Bob said:

Probably another sort of status light or something. So it doesn't shut down in GTA V, but does in other games? That's weird because if it were a load issue you'd think GTA V would crash it the fastest. Have you ever updated the BIOS? I'd clear the CMOS first (to make sure it's 100% clear, turn off the PSU and remove the CMOS battery from the mobo, then hold down the power button for 10-15 seconds and let it sit for about 10 minutes). Then update the BIOS, install the chipset drivers, run DDU and then clean install the GPU drivers to rule those out. Next step after that would be to reseat the GPU and RAM and possibly the CPU, sometimes they can just be randomly funky and a reseat fixes them. 

 

Highly doubt it's a PSU issue because like I said, GTA V will push your system a lot harder than CS:GO so if the PSU was bad enough it struggled to output power properly it'd crash on that for sure. 

No I have never updated the BIOS but I heard it can break your motherboard when something goes wrong?

 

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7 minutes ago, Damian026 said:

No I have never updated the BIOS but I heard it can break your motherboard when something goes wrong?

 

If the power goes out in the middle of it, yeah. I've never had that happen on any of my multiple boards though. Just always, always use a USB you know is good and the in-BIOS flash utility, never ever update the BIOS from Windows. That's the most unreliable way and I'd never reccomend that. Some mobos can even download the BIOS and install it on their own, my ASUS and ASRock ones have done that. 

First I'd check what version you're running right now though, then see what version is the newest. If you're on an old BIOS from when the 2000 series was new, there may be an AGESA update that fixes some issues. If it's more recent and the new BIOS versions don't list any bug fixes you need, you don't have to update. 

Intel HEDT and Server platform enthusiasts: Intel HEDT Xeon/i7 Megathread 

 

Main PC 

CPU: i9 7980XE @4.5GHz/1.22v/-2 AVX offset 

Cooler: EKWB Supremacy Block - custom loop w/360mm +280mm rads 

Motherboard: EVGA X299 Dark 

RAM:4x8GB HyperX Predator DDR4 @3200Mhz CL16 

GPU: Nvidia FE 2060 Super/Corsair HydroX 2070 FE block 

Storage:  1TB MP34 + 1TB 970 Evo + 500GB Atom30 + 250GB 960 Evo 

Optical Drives: LG WH14NS40 

PSU: EVGA 1600W T2 

Case & Fans: Corsair 750D Airflow - 3x Noctua iPPC NF-F12 + 4x Noctua iPPC NF-A14 PWM 

OS: Windows 11

 

Display: LG 27UK650-W (4K 60Hz IPS panel)

Mouse: EVGA X17

Keyboard: Corsair K55 RGB

 

Mobile/Work Devices: 2020 M1 MacBook Air (work computer) - iPhone 13 Pro Max - Apple Watch S3

 

Other Misc Devices: iPod Video (Gen 5.5E, 128GB SD card swap, running Rockbox), Nintendo Switch

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Test 1 thing at a time and go from broad issues to more specific. Test to see if your pulling too much power. Run something like prime95 and furmark at the same time and see if thats when your computer restarts. Then test 1 at a time to see if its one part restarting, you need to know where the issue is occurring before you can find solutions. You can also test ram by creating memtest86 usb stick and booting to it and running some tests. its pretty obvious how to use it once you watch a youtube video or 2. Motherboard is usually the hardest to test, usually you will want another system or a friends system to test this. 

 

Prime95 - tests CPU 

Furmark - testing gpu

Memtest86 - test ram

 

example test 1:

 

Get a baseline - you computer can sit idle without restarting. 

Run both cpu/gpu tests to pin the computer and see if computer restarts

next run cpu test by itself - did it restart?

run gpu test by itself - did it restart?

 

example test 2:

 

Get baseline - your computer can sit idle without restarting.

boot into a memtest86 usb and run ram tests

 

I cannot say that any of these tests will not hard your cpu as I do not know if its the cooling being the issue. Example if the cpu cooler isnt on properly or the thermal paste is dry for example. you could also go and reseat the cables to make sure things are connected properly, I have fixed a few computers in my day where I opened it up and a cable was just not 100% clicked in right and it's really hard to troubleshoot a 9/10 plugged in cable. 

 

Good luck.

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10 minutes ago, Zando Bob said:

If the power goes out in the middle of it, yeah. I've never had that happen on any of my multiple boards though. Just always, always use a USB you know is good and the in-BIOS flash utility, never ever update the BIOS from Windows. That's the most unreliable way and I'd never reccomend that. Some mobos can even download the BIOS and install it on their own, my ASUS and ASRock ones have done that. 

First I'd check what version you're running right now though, then see what version is the newest. If you're on an old BIOS from when the 2000 series was new, there may be an AGESA update that fixes some issues. If it's more recent and the new BIOS versions don't list any bug fixes you need, you don't have to update. 

My bios version is: 0604 (which is of december 2018)

And the latest bios version is: 1804 (which is of 31th of July 2019)

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