help Need advice on my first watercooling build

[Diogo Pereira]

Currently planning my 1st watercooling build, maybe some of you can give me some advice on my loop, heres what i got so far(excuse the shitty drawing xD, if you dont understand anything let me know):

https://imgur.com/a/bX9hY20

Bot rad is a 280mm because i already have 2 140mm LL corsair fans and i want to make use of them.

PC parts:

GPU: Vega 64 Sapphire

CPU: Ryzen 5 2600x (ill probably upgrade to the new 3800x, not sure about the mobo, might keep the same one)

MOBO: Asus x470 prime

PSU: seasonic focus 750w gold

RAM: G skill trident Z rgb 3200mhz

Case: lian li o11 dynamic

As for the watercooling parts, i will most likely use all bykski/barrow parts as it is quite a lot cheaper than other brands and from what i've seen people talking, they are quite reliable as well, so no point in spending more than i should:

Fittings

Tube

360 Radiator

Still looking for a 280mm as i cant find any from the bykski store so i might just buy one from a local store

Pump+Resevoir

GPU block (Cant seem to find any other block for it so this will have to work)

CPU block

 

So heres the questions:

• Is my PSU enough for such build?

• Should i try to bend or just buy angled fittings, like, how hard is it to bend tube?

• If i decide to bend, is this kit good enough? I will mainly do 90º bends so that seemed good enough for me.

• Should i get spare fittings/tube?

• Can anyone whos using any of the watercooling parts i listed, give me some sort of review on them? Id appreciate it

• Any tips for a new builder?

• What liquid do you recommend? Howoften am i supposed to change it?

• Is the direction of my loop right? or should I change anything else?

[Derrk]

the psu should be fine, but you may want to consider getting a modular one for unrelated reasons

 

you should definitely get plenty of extra tubing, so it isn't a big deal if you make mistakes. you should get a couple spare fittings, for the drain valve or in case you have any issues

 

since you plan on having your reservoir top filled at the end of the loop, you may want to add a inlet tube (i forget the proper term) so the coolant doesn't splash when it returns to the reservoir. This'll just cut down noise as the trickling can be distracting

 

Coolant is up to you. It varies how often you have to change it depending on which one you use. i would recommend against some of the opaque ones because they tend to deteriorate quickly and gunk up your loop. distilled water with a biocide lasts the longest and has the highest heat conductivity

 

You could change the order of the loop, but it's up to you. It will run totally fine the way you've sketched it.

 

Other notes, just don't mix metals but your part list looks like you're already using only copper. Optional would be to add a flow-meter somewhere in the loop to let you know if it ever has any issues

 

 

I've only even done soft-tubing so i don't have much advice for the hard line tubing. Just buy extra and take your time

 

 

 

 

 

[Diogo Pereira]

13 minutes ago, Derrk said:

the psu should be fine, but you may want to consider getting a modular one for unrelated reasons

 

you should definitely get plenty of extra tubing, so it isn't a big deal if you make mistakes. you should get a couple spare fittings, for the drain valve or in case you have any issues

 

since you plan on having your reservoir top filled at the end of the loop, you may want to add a inlet tube (i forget the proper term) so the coolant doesn't splash when it returns to the reservoir. This'll just cut down noise as the trickling can be distracting

 

Coolant is up to you. It varies how often you have to change it depending on which one you use. i would recommend against some of the opaque ones because they tend to deteriorate quickly and gunk up your loop. distilled water with a biocide lasts the longest and has the highest heat conductivity

 

You could change the order of the loop, but it's up to you. It will run totally fine the way you've sketched it.

 

Other notes, just don't mix metals but your part list looks like you're already using only copper. Optional would be to add a flow-meter somewhere in the loop to let you know if it ever has any issues

 

 

I've only even done soft-tubing so i don't have much advice for the hard line tubing. Just buy extra and take your time

 

 

 

 

 

Yeah im definitely aware of the "not mixing metals" thing, which is why i only went for copper. I will add a flow-meter somewhere for sure. Good idea about the tube inside the resevoir, totally forgot about that..

 About the coolant, i was planning on using some sort of white coolant, but im slowly changing my mind. i was planning on changing the loop atleast 2 times a year, im not sure if the opaque coolants clog that fast. Ill end up going water because im extremely unlucky in situations like that and it will mess my system for sure lol.

Thanks for the tips, really appreciate, the psu is modular btw

[Derrk]

17 minutes ago, Diogo Pereira said:

About the coolant, i was planning on using some sort of white coolant, but im slowly changing my mind. i was planning on changing the loop atleast 2 times a year, im not sure if the opaque coolants clog that fast. Ill end up going water because im extremely unlucky in situations like that and it will mess my system for sure lol.

There are a lot of white fluid you could use that would be fine, i think adding dye to water is also okay (i'm not sure though). Just giving you a warning to avoid using things like primochill vue and mayhem pastel. I've seen plenty of youtubers talking about those destroying their loops.

 

I've been running EK cryofuel the past 8 months but i'm planning on switching to water because i want to change fluid as infrequently as possible lol

[Ravendarat]

Im getting the same fittings as you are planning, Ill let you know how they work out but my understanding is they are pretty legit