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Time to upgrade my 3 year old PC?

FTWEd

Hi,

 

My current system is as following:

  •  i7 6700k
  • Asrock z170 extreme4 board
  • MSI GTX 1070 Gaming 8G 
  • 16GB DDR4 
  •  660W PSU Seasonic
  • Monitor(s)/TV: 2560x1440p DELL 144Hz G-Sync, Standard 4K-TV and a not-for-gaming-used 27" 1080p Monitor

 

I have my system since mid 2016 and it was fine but i noticed some not so smooth gameplay/bit of stuttering in newer games recently so i messed around with some graphics setting and noticed i get SOO much smoother gameplay with low graphics settings so i checked my FPS at my normal settings: In F1 2018 for example i only get 40-45 FPS (4K TV), in BFV in 1440p i get basically the same. In BFV the CPU also seems on the limit (75%+ usage) on Multiplayer matches. Difficult to describe because 40-50 FPS does not look so bad but when it turn down the graphics settings and  get like 90-120FPS it is just something completely different. More noticable in the racing games than in the Shooter i must admit. 

 

I am playing several games, mostly older, but also newer games. The newer games become/became a problem recently, especially the ones on the 4K TV which are: F1 2018 (in June = F1 2019, which seems to be a bit more demanding) and several other racing games (Assetto Corsa, iRacing, etc. etc.)

 

On my 27" DELL i play all other games like BFV, BF4 and a ton of other games that are out right now. 

 

So i am asking myself: Time to upgrade? 

It would basically be a complete new system because of Intels strict policy regarding platform compatibility. 


What would you suggest in terms of upgrading? Which parts? Upgrade or wait?

 

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I personally wouldn't upgrade as it would mostly be a waste of money. If you really want to, upgrade to Ryzen or 8th gen Intel.

Quote me to see my reply!

SPECS:

CPU: Ryzen 7 3700X Motherboard: MSI B450-A Pro Max RAM: 32GB I forget GPU: MSI Vega 56 Storage: 256GB NVMe boot, 512GB Samsung 850 Pro, 1TB WD Blue SSD, 1TB WD Blue HDD PSU: Inwin P85 850w Case: Fractal Design Define C Cooling: Stock for CPU, be quiet! case fans, Morpheus Vega w/ be quiet! Pure Wings 2 for GPU Monitor: 3x Thinkvision P24Q on a Steelcase Eyesite triple monitor stand Mouse: Logitech MX Master 3 Keyboard: Focus FK-9000 (heavily modded) Mousepad: Aliexpress cat special Headphones:  Sennheiser HD598SE and Sony Linkbuds

 

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If you really feel the need to upgrade, I'd recommend an RTX 2080 graphics card. Or a GTX 1080 Ti, possibly a Radeon VII.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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5 minutes ago, kelvinhall05 said:

I personally wouldn't upgrade as it would mostly be a waste of money. If you really want to, upgrade to Ryzen or 8th gen Intel.

Ryzen wouldn’t give him a better gaming experience than a 6700k would. 

 

Only thing ink you should do is try to overclock the cpu a bit and maybe get a stronger gpu. For 1440p 60 I would go with a 2070 and for 4K 60~ I would go with a 2080. 

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9 minutes ago, kelvinhall05 said:

I personally wouldn't upgrade as it would mostly be a waste of money. If you really want to, upgrade to Ryzen or 8th gen Intel.

 

GPU: You think? How much faster is a RTX 2080 (Ti) compared to my GTX 1070 MSI Gaming?

CPU: No idea where my 6700k stands. 

 

1 minute ago, Sorenson said:

Ryzen wouldn’t give him a better gaming experience than a 6700k would. 

 

Only thing ink you should do is try to overclock the cpu a bit and maybe get a stronger gpu. For 1440p 60 I would go with a 2070 and for 4K 60~ I would go with a 2080. 

 

I thought so too that i could overclock my CPU a bit. Int erms of GPU: You would not recommend going straight for the TI version? Have you got any performance charts where older and newest cards are compared?

 

3 minutes ago, 191x7 said:

If you really feel the need to upgrade, I'd recommend an RTX 2080 graphics card. Or a GTX 1080 Ti, possibly a Radeon VII.

Same question as for @Sorenson: Any comparison charts?


Thank you for all the replies so fast.

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9 minutes ago, FTWEd said:

Same question as for @Sorenson: Any comparison charts?

 

GTX 1070 ~= 1660Ti ~= Vega 56 < 1070ti ~= RTX 2060 < 1080 ~= Vega 64 ~= RTX 2070 < 1080Ti ~= Radeon VII ~= RTX 2080 < RTX 2080Ti

That's a rough estimate.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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Your CPU can handle more GPU horsepower without bottlenecking, you should consider an upgrade.

 

But, 

45 minutes ago, FTWEd said:

660W PSU Seasonic

Could you be more specific?

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 10 and Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

How many watts do I needATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0 spec, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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Seeing as you seem to be struggling more as the resolution goes up, the GPU is clearly the limiting factor.  So that would be the first thing I'd upgrade. 

 

Going from a 1070 to a 1080Ti I noticed that my framerate (at 1440p) went up by around 75-80% in most games. 

Judging by the benchmark scores I see online, it looks like the 2080 is only marginally slower than the 1080Ti.  So those 2 would be one huge step up from your current 1070.  Then there's a reasonable step up to the 2080Ti.

 

In terms of raytracing support, it's just too early to bet on that.  By the time we see games that properly make use of it, the 2080 or 2080Ti will most likely be outdated anyway.  So if you can get hold of a 1080Ti at a lower price as a 2080 non-Ti, you may want to seriously consider getting the older card. 

 

Whether or not the extra performance of the 2080Ti justifies the extra cost is something only you can decide.  I honestly don't know what speed your 6700K needs to run at in order to keep up with the 2080Ti in your preferred games (yes, that also can make a difference) at 4K. 

 

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41 minutes ago, 191x7 said:

 

GTX 1070 ~= 1660Ti ~= Vega 56 < 1070ti ~= RTX 2060 < 1080 ~= Vega 64 ~= RTX 2070 < 1080Ti ~= Radeon VII ~= RTX 2080 < RTX 2080Ti

That's a rough estimate.

Thank you

 

25 minutes ago, fasauceome said:

Your CPU can handle more GPU horsepower without bottlenecking, you should consider an upgrade.

 

But, 

Could you be more specific?

I see, so the GPU is the limiting factor. I think so too. 


The PSU is a Seasonic X-Series 660W semi passive

24 minutes ago, Captain Chaos said:

Seeing as you seem to be struggling more as the resolution goes up, the GPU is clearly the limiting factor.  So that would be the first thing I'd upgrade. 

 

Going from a 1070 to a 1080Ti I noticed that my framerate (at 1440p) went up by around 75-80% in most games. 

Judging by the benchmark scores I see online, it looks like the 2080 is only marginally slower than the 1080Ti.  So those 2 would be one huge step up from your current 1070.  Then there's a reasonable step up to the 2080Ti.

 

In terms of raytracing support, it's just too early to bet on that.  By the time we see games that properly make use of it, the 2080 or 2080Ti will most likely be outdated anyway.  So if you can get hold of a 1080Ti at a lower price as a 2080 non-Ti, you may want to seriously consider getting the older card. 

 

Whether or not the extra performance of the 2080Ti justifies the extra cost is something only you can decide.  I honestly don't know what speed your 6700K needs to run at in order to keep up with the 2080Ti in your preferred games (yes, that also can make a difference) at 4K. 

 

I think id go for the 2080 because it just is the newer version and i keep my cards nowadays at least 2-3 years. 

But 75-80 % is a very good increase in any case i think!

 

@ All: 

 

Any suggestions regarding WHICH GTX 2080 (Ti)? MSI/ASUS and so on? I plan on overclocking it if it is beneficial. 

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Pretty much any that's not "reference".  The 2080Ti would be bottlenecked by your CPU and you wouldn't notice a huge increase over 2080.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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