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PC not turning on

Go to solution Solved by TheGlenlivet,

RM 550 is a good unit, but it sounds like either it, or the 24 pin cable are bad.

Well here I am again and I can't start a computer again. I ordered my components, built it and it's not starting again! Everything connected right (at least I think) and the only thing I hear is a sound coming from the PS when I give electricity to it. No ligtht on mobo (MSI B350 Gaming Plus), no fans spinning (PC wasnt ever turned on before), other specs: GPU MSI GTX 1660 Ti Gaming X, CPU AMD Ryzen 5 2600X and 8GB of RAM. I honestly hate myself for even trying to do anything at this point, is it because it came faulty or is it because I didn't connect the FP cables the right way? I really need help because this cost me some money and I do not want to waste it right away. 

20190429_185326.jpg

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You press the power button and nothing happens? Did you double check that the power button is plugged in right?

 

Many would think that the 2600x in a B350 board would be the cause, but you'd get fan spin if the BIOS was rejecting the CPU.

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 11 and Fedora Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

PSU tier list

How many watts do I need?

PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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2 minutes ago, fasauceome said:

You press the power button and nothing happens? Did you double check that the power button is plugged in right?

 

Many would think that the 2600x in a B350 board would be the cause, but you'd get fan spin if the BIOS was rejecting the CPU.

Nope, mobo is has the bios updated to support 2nd gen Ryzen. Just made sure Front Panel cables are connected right and they are.

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Have you tried shorting power up pins on the motherboard?

Main system: Ryzen 7 7800X3D / Asus TUF Gaming B650-Plus / G.Skill Trident Z5 NEO 32GB 6000Mhz / Zotac RTX 5090 SOLID OC/ x2 WD_BLACK NS770 2TBs/ Corsair HX1000i/ NZXT H5 Flow

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1 minute ago, Vezun said:

Nope, mobo is has the bios updated to support 2nd gen Ryzen. Just made sure Front Panel cables are connected right and they are.

Have you checked both ends of your cables to make sure they're all plugged in all the way?

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 11 and Fedora Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

PSU tier list

How many watts do I need?

PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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2 minutes ago, fasauceome said:

Have you checked both ends of your cables to make sure they're all plugged in all the way?

Yep, all of the plugged in all the way, the only problem I had was with connecting the 24 pin ATX power cable, but after some pressure and time I got it to snap in there. And no, I did not try bridging and I am not going to, I just dont feel comfortable with doing that because last time I did it I felt like I broke it.

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Really difficult to accidentally damage the board by shorting the power switch jumpers. Just use a screwdriver and tap these jumpers, don't even need to apply pressure, just as long as the screwdriver made contact with both pins (red arrows below). Grabbed this from your board's manual:

 

image.png.3eff47f7a7dbbc6a56db3d1977679127.png

 

And of course make sure the switch on the back of your PSU unit is actually flipped on.

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20 minutes ago, spartanvi said:

Really difficult to accidentally damage the board by shorting the power switch jumpers. Just use a screwdriver and tap these jumpers, don't even need to apply pressure, just as long as the screwdriver made contact with both pins (red arrows below). Grabbed this from your board's manual:

 

image.png.3eff47f7a7dbbc6a56db3d1977679127.png

 

And of course make sure the switch on the back of your PSU unit is actually flipped on.

Well I tried shortening it and nothing, I think there isn't power getting to the mobo because no LEDs are on.

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1 minute ago, TheGlenlivet said:

RM 550 is a good unit, but it sounds like either it, or the 24 pin cable are bad.

Well should I RMA it? I'm going to call somebody here tommorow and see what do they think the problem is. But you might be right, there aren't any LEDs on and no sign of life.

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2 minutes ago, Vezun said:

Well should I RMA it? I'm going to call somebody here tommorow and see what do they think the problem is. But you might be right, there aren't any LEDs on and no sign of life.

Yup, I'd have someone else take a look and see what they think.  Unless you want to try and post more pics here.

After that, RMA!

You don't have a spare PSU around right?

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6 minutes ago, TheGlenlivet said:

Yup, I'd have someone else take a look and see what they think.  Unless you want to try and post more pics here.

After that, RMA!

You don't have a spare PSU around right?

Oh yeah sure I do have one, form a russian manufacturer thst no longer exists and it is a 10 year old PSU. I dont think Im frying this PC today. I'm going to try plugging in a speaker and see if I get anything.

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6 minutes ago, Vezun said:

Oh yeah sure I do have one, form a russian manufacturer thst no longer exists and it is a 10 year old PSU. I dont think Im frying this PC today. I'm going to try plugging in a speaker and see if I get anything.

Alright, I got completely nothing from the speaker and I am not in the mood to reconnect the 24 pin power cable today, I'm just going to let someone smarter try fixing it, but thanks everyone that helped.

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