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Did i make a mistake?

6 minutes ago, ChrisZH said:

What i was thinking of doing is that the way my loop is set up, if i invert my 120mm radiator i have enough room to take my gpu out and set it on top of a box out of the case. I could then unscrew everything and fix it and put it back together without take the loop apart. Well thats if everything happens the way i see it in my mind. Otherwise i would have to take the tube off the fitting to my gpu and drain it that way until i can take it apart.

Crosing my fingers for you.  Just whatever you do please make sure you have all your power unplugged from the wall and mobo and card first.  and put a lot of towels in the machine to protect against any drips or splashes.

Mobo: ASUS ROG Maximus Hero XI Wifi   CPU: i9 9900k w/ EK Supremacy EVO cooling   RAM: 32 Gb G.Skill Trident Z DDR4-3200 CL 14    GPU: EVGA 2080 TI FTW3 w/ EVGA Hydrocopper GPU Block cooling   Cooling: EK Coolstream XE 360 X2 | Thermaltake Pacific PR22-D5 Silent Kit Reservoir/Pump Combo | Thermaltake Riing 120 Static Pressure X6 - push on one rad pull on the other | Bitspower Matte Black Fittings | Bitspower Clear 16mm OD PETG pipe   Storage: Samsung - 970 Evo Plus 250 GB M.2-2280 | Samsung - 860 Evo 1 TB 2.5" | Seagate Barracuda 2 TB 7200 RPM 3.5"   PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 1200 W 80+ Platinum   Sound: Sound Blaster X Katana   Case: Thermaltake View 71 TG   Display: Dual: ACER Predator Z1 | Samsung 32" secondary

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2 minutes ago, _Syn_ said:

Nah you shouldn't worry about turning it on and doing day to day tasks or watching youtube and stuff, just don't stress the GPU with gaming or video rendering :) (don't stress the GPU in general)

Well i did do a stress test for like 30min in total

to check temps. But nothing for more than an hour since i set it up in total. Going to change it when i get home cause i dont wanna ruin my card.. cost too much money lol

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Just now, Salticid said:

Crosing my fingers for you.  Just whatever you do please make sure you have all your power unplugged from the wall and mobo and card first.  and put a lot of towels in the machine to protect against any drips or splashes.

Oh that would be the first thing i was gonna do lol. Whenever i do any work on my pc i always unplug everything haha, habit i guess

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@Salticid

It probably does help a little by cooling the housing, I just doubt it will cause any issues if you didn't, motherboards don't have any cooling on the chokes for example, sometimes the chokes are covered by the big heatsink but it's not actually touching the chokes, and some motherboard heatsinks actually touch the chokes, same goes for GPU's, some are touching the chokes, some aren't like my R9 280, but on GPU's they do have airflow over them, so I guess it's different for watercooling, might wanna put a thermal pad just incase

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35 minutes ago, _Syn_ said:

@Salticid

It probably does help a little by cooling the housing, I just doubt it will cause any issues if you didn't, motherboards don't have any cooling on the chokes for example, sometimes the chokes are covered by the big heatsink but it's not actually touching the chokes, and some motherboard heatsinks actually touch the chokes, same goes for GPU's, some are touching the chokes, some aren't like my R9 280, but on GPU's they do have airflow over them, so I guess it's different for watercooling, might wanna put a thermal pad just incase

So just add thermal pad where you said and leave the others there?

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35 minutes ago, _Syn_ said:

@Salticid

It probably does help a little by cooling the housing, I just doubt it will cause any issues if you didn't, motherboards don't have any cooling on the chokes for example, sometimes the chokes are covered by the big heatsink but it's not actually touching the chokes, and some motherboard heatsinks actually touch the chokes, same goes for GPU's, some are touching the chokes, some aren't like my R9 280, but on GPU's they do have airflow over them, so I guess it's different for watercooling, might wanna put a thermal pad just incase

I just proceeded following manufacturer instructions. 

I got the EVGA waterblock to go with the card because they provide explicit instructions and as long as you follow them your warranty is not voided in switching cooling methods.  So, just followed their instructions.  But that's why I figured those specific chokes needed cooling.

 

Considering the amount of TIM on the GPU... I'm in favor of them just super overdoing things.  LOL

Mobo: ASUS ROG Maximus Hero XI Wifi   CPU: i9 9900k w/ EK Supremacy EVO cooling   RAM: 32 Gb G.Skill Trident Z DDR4-3200 CL 14    GPU: EVGA 2080 TI FTW3 w/ EVGA Hydrocopper GPU Block cooling   Cooling: EK Coolstream XE 360 X2 | Thermaltake Pacific PR22-D5 Silent Kit Reservoir/Pump Combo | Thermaltake Riing 120 Static Pressure X6 - push on one rad pull on the other | Bitspower Matte Black Fittings | Bitspower Clear 16mm OD PETG pipe   Storage: Samsung - 970 Evo Plus 250 GB M.2-2280 | Samsung - 860 Evo 1 TB 2.5" | Seagate Barracuda 2 TB 7200 RPM 3.5"   PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 1200 W 80+ Platinum   Sound: Sound Blaster X Katana   Case: Thermaltake View 71 TG   Display: Dual: ACER Predator Z1 | Samsung 32" secondary

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6 minutes ago, ChrisZH said:

So just add thermal pad where you said and leave the others there?

I know you're not asking me, and certainly wait for Syn, but I would suggest that no, you remove the pads from areas they don't need to be. 

Because the added millimeter or so of padding there will effect the contact of the thermal pads you put on the chips that need them, meaning they don't contact the plate or don't contact it well, making them less effective or not effective at all.

 

The pads provided by my card manufacturer were of different thicknesses depending where they sit on the board, thus allowing them all to have full contact.

Mobo: ASUS ROG Maximus Hero XI Wifi   CPU: i9 9900k w/ EK Supremacy EVO cooling   RAM: 32 Gb G.Skill Trident Z DDR4-3200 CL 14    GPU: EVGA 2080 TI FTW3 w/ EVGA Hydrocopper GPU Block cooling   Cooling: EK Coolstream XE 360 X2 | Thermaltake Pacific PR22-D5 Silent Kit Reservoir/Pump Combo | Thermaltake Riing 120 Static Pressure X6 - push on one rad pull on the other | Bitspower Matte Black Fittings | Bitspower Clear 16mm OD PETG pipe   Storage: Samsung - 970 Evo Plus 250 GB M.2-2280 | Samsung - 860 Evo 1 TB 2.5" | Seagate Barracuda 2 TB 7200 RPM 3.5"   PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 1200 W 80+ Platinum   Sound: Sound Blaster X Katana   Case: Thermaltake View 71 TG   Display: Dual: ACER Predator Z1 | Samsung 32" secondary

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3 minutes ago, ChrisZH said:

So just add thermal pad where you said and leave the others there?

Yeah, doesn't hurt to do that, but make sure the pads on the chokes are not thick, or else it would not make good contact with the actual chips.

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4 minutes ago, _Syn_ said:

Yeah, doesn't hurt to do that, but make sure the pads on the chokes are not thick, or else it would not make good contact with the actual chips.

The pads are all of the same thickness. So i was wondering if maybe thats why my temps were a little higher than others. Not good enough contacts on gpu.

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Just now, ChrisZH said:

The pads are all of the same thickness. So i was wondering if maybe thats why my temps were a little higher than others. Not good enough contacts on gpu.

If you think the pads are too thick on the chokes and are causing bad contact then remove them

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10 minutes ago, _Syn_ said:

If you think the pads are too thick on the chokes and are causing bad contact then remove them

Well wont really know until i take it off to put thermal pads in right area. Well atleast i wont make this mistake again haha

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9 hours ago, _Syn_ said:

If you think the pads are too thick on the chokes and are causing bad contact then remove them

Great news, i was able to add the thermal pads in the right area without draining the loop. Everything works lol, also added static pressure fans.

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9 hours ago, Salticid said:

I know you're not asking me, and certainly wait for Syn, but I would suggest that no, you remove the pads from areas they don't need to be. 

Because the added millimeter or so of padding there will effect the contact of the thermal pads you put on the chips that need them, meaning they don't contact the plate or don't contact it well, making them less effective or not effective at all.

 

The pads provided by my card manufacturer were of different thicknesses depending where they sit on the board, thus allowing them all to have full contact.

So i was able to fix it without draining loop or causing leaks. I kept the other thermal pads and added the new ones too. The spread on gpu was great as well. So i am getting great contact.

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8 hours ago, ChrisZH said:

So i was able to fix it without draining loop or causing leaks. I kept the other thermal pads and added the new ones too. The spread on gpu was great as well. So i am getting great contact.

Download HWinfo and check "Sensors-Only" when you open the program and then scroll way down until you see your GPU, and pay attention to VRM Temperatures for the GPU, VRM's are the black chips you just put pads on, stress your GPU for a while and make sure VRM's are below 80C because that's the performance I would expect with watercooling, could even be way lower than that, 50-60C range or something.

https://www.hwinfo.com/

 

There's not much information out there about the Radeon VII, so VRM temperatures might not be available to check :)

(don't mistake Motherboard VRM temperature with GPU VRM temperature)

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3 hours ago, _Syn_ said:

Download HWinfo and check "Sensors-Only" when you open the program and then scroll way down until you see your GPU, and pay attention to VRM Temperatures for the GPU, VRM's are the black chips you just put pads on, stress your GPU for a while and make sure VRM's are below 80C because that's the performance I would expect with watercooling, could even be way lower than that, 50-60C range or something.

https://www.hwinfo.com/

 

There's not much information out there about the Radeon VII, so VRM temperatures might not be available to check :)

(don't mistake Motherboard VRM temperature with GPU VRM temperature)

Vrm temperatures with my overclock to 2000mhz at 1.15v is 67c. Junction temp maxed at 72c and gpu temp was at 63c. Pretty good i think, especially for radeon vii

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Just now, ChrisZH said:

Vrm temperatures with my overclock to 2000mhz at 1.15v is 67c. Junction temp maxed at 72c and gpu temp was at 63c. Pretty good i think, especially for radeon vii

That's pretty great actually :D enjoy

What did you use for stress testing?

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11 minutes ago, _Syn_ said:

That's pretty great actually :D enjoy

What did you use for stress testing?

Superposition, heaven, valley

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