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I am looking for 'backplate' for my desktop to hide cables

Dakpan

Hi!

My current setup makes it so that I can see the back of my desktop, which isn't a huge deal, but I don't like the fact that I can see all the wires.
I am looking for something that I can make/buy to put on the back of my pc to hide cables without compromising the airflow, any ideas?

This is my pc:
Afbeeldingsresultaat voor NZXT H200i orange

This is the back, i want to cover the left part, or if possible, the whole casing.

image.png.bfad4ea64a98281232d1949d26c2aaf7.png

 

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M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

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design something in fusion 360 and get it 3d printed?

Monitor: Alienware AW2518HF CPU: 9900K @ 5.1GHz Heatsink: 2x360MM Custom Loop GPU: MSI GeForce RTX 2080 Ti GAMING X TRIO RAM: Patriot Viper Steel DDR4 2x8GB 4400Mhz Mobo: Asus Maximus XI Gene Case: Fractal Design Meshify S2 PSU: Corsair RM1000x Storage: Seagate Firecuda 510 2TB M.2, Adata XPG SX8200 PRO 256GB M.2
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45 minutes ago, 191x7 said:

This is my fallback option, I would love something that could fit on the back, maybe even painted orange.

 

32 minutes ago, remus243 said:

design something in fusion 360 and get it 3d printed?

Unfortunatly I haven't found a 3D printer that can print as large as the casing is and is still payable, most 3D print websites are way to expensive (300-500 euro's for just a cap)

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Ouchie, that is really bad as 3d printing is pretty much dirt cheap except the cost of the printer but you can get a Creality CR-10 S5 for a reasonable amount these days.

 

You can use a program called Luban to chop up 3d models and then put pegs in (automatically), obviously you'll need to glue it but if you put time and effort into it. You could achieve something nice.

Monitor: Alienware AW2518HF CPU: 9900K @ 5.1GHz Heatsink: 2x360MM Custom Loop GPU: MSI GeForce RTX 2080 Ti GAMING X TRIO RAM: Patriot Viper Steel DDR4 2x8GB 4400Mhz Mobo: Asus Maximus XI Gene Case: Fractal Design Meshify S2 PSU: Corsair RM1000x Storage: Seagate Firecuda 510 2TB M.2, Adata XPG SX8200 PRO 256GB M.2
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27 minutes ago, remus243 said:

Ouchie, that is really bad as 3d printing is pretty much dirt cheap except the cost of the printer but you can get a Creality CR-10 S5 for a reasonable amount these days.

 

You can use a program called Luban to chop up 3d models and then put pegs in (automatically), obviously you'll need to glue it but if you put time and effort into it. You could achieve something nice.

Where would you order such 3d printed pieces?

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The printer? Just search online, the Cr10 S5 is very popular and there are several big Creality facebook groups, theres also a very helpful Luban group too

 

If you wanted someone to print it for you? I don't know, i've never done it before sorry and it also depends on your location

Monitor: Alienware AW2518HF CPU: 9900K @ 5.1GHz Heatsink: 2x360MM Custom Loop GPU: MSI GeForce RTX 2080 Ti GAMING X TRIO RAM: Patriot Viper Steel DDR4 2x8GB 4400Mhz Mobo: Asus Maximus XI Gene Case: Fractal Design Meshify S2 PSU: Corsair RM1000x Storage: Seagate Firecuda 510 2TB M.2, Adata XPG SX8200 PRO 256GB M.2
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if ya know how to work with sheet metal. 

 

you can call around for "wholesale" for HVAC (heating and cooling) and get cheap sheet metal, for building duct work, or installing furnace and like in homes.

if you make sure you have the (left, right, straight) sheet metal scissors / cutters. 

then smaller width and larger width benders. you can make something out of sheet metal.

 

((see ugly drawing for sheet metal work))

did not show additional edge bends, to reduce sharp edges.

 

the X bracing is to keep sides from "warping, twisting, bending"

the 2 orange brackets is also there to keep things from "warping, twisting, bending".

make sure for the brackets you add 2 screws per attachment to the panels. so brackets do not twist on you and grab your skin. 

 

----------

you have lots of holes, so use them.  LONG BOLTS, washers, and extra nuts. and have them like "spikes" sticking out the back.

 

i tend to want to pull my teeth out, when dealing with cable wraps.  tend to use "garbage bag twisties", or cut short pieces of solid core wire to use as twisty ties, or use velcro strips.  i try to avoid using "zip ties" i end up getting cut by cutting the zip ties off once secured due to i hate seeing long end of zip tie just hanging there. 

 

the pipe wraps, were it is a "single hose" but there is a single long slit cut straight down the length, i tend to favor better. and might use a bit of electrical tape every so often on the hose to keep cables from spilling out. 

cable managment.png

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10 hours ago, boggen said:

if ya know how to work with sheet metal. 

 

you can call around for "wholesale" for HVAC (heating and cooling) and get cheap sheet metal, for building duct work, or installing furnace and like in homes.

if you make sure you have the (left, right, straight) sheet metal scissors / cutters. 

then smaller width and larger width benders. you can make something out of sheet metal.

 

((see ugly drawing for sheet metal work))

did not show additional edge bends, to reduce sharp edges.

 

the X bracing is to keep sides from "warping, twisting, bending"

the 2 orange brackets is also there to keep things from "warping, twisting, bending".

make sure for the brackets you add 2 screws per attachment to the panels. so brackets do not twist on you and grab your skin. 

 

----------

you have lots of holes, so use them.  LONG BOLTS, washers, and extra nuts. and have them like "spikes" sticking out the back.

 

i tend to want to pull my teeth out, when dealing with cable wraps.  tend to use "garbage bag twisties", or cut short pieces of solid core wire to use as twisty ties, or use velcro strips.  i try to avoid using "zip ties" i end up getting cut by cutting the zip ties off once secured due to i hate seeing long end of zip tie just hanging there. 

 

the pipe wraps, were it is a "single hose" but there is a single long slit cut straight down the length, i tend to favor better. and might use a bit of electrical tape every so often on the hose to keep cables from spilling out. 

cable managment.png

Im looking into a 'how to do it myself' method, this is a very good idea! Untill now I have only considered making 1 full piece, which has been bugging me a lot :P
Making seprate panels might be a better idea! I have not worked with a sheet metal yet tho :(

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sheet metal cutters

hand seamer 

sheet metal brake (( i doubt you would need it))

  • https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200660086_200660086
  • you can use 2x4's and sandwich sheet metal between them. then fasten the 2x4's together at the ends. and bend the sheet metal over to make a longer nice bend. it is not perfect nice 90 degree bend, but slot arc in the corner, but it should be near top side corner edge roundness. 

drill bits

  • start small then enlarge. or get an ale / spike and tape center with hammer, and then start drilling with a drill bit. 

screws

  • get something with "hex nut" that you need a socket for. makes it easier to drive the screws in. if ya never done it. get one size, then get a slightly larger diameter screw. so when ya mess up, you can run a slightly larger screw in. not ideal but *shrugs*

grab some "bandaids" err some gloves as well.

  • if ya never messed with sheet metal, it is a good way to cut yourself. 

electrical tools for sheet metal

  • not worth it IMHO, for such a small project more likely cut in wrong direction completely off before you catch something with any sort of cutter tools. 

===============

local fabrication shop, even a HVAC (heating cooling) installer, most likely have it done up and ready to go with 30 minutes to an hour. most of the time getting tools and material out, and then putting the tools back away. 

 

===============

instead of sheet metal brackets, if anything get yourself two sides of sheet metal or what ever. and get some 1/2" by 1/2" or 1" x 1" trim boards at local hardware store, and hammer a couple nails or screws in for bracing. 

 

================

if you bought a plastic "tub" at local hardware store, toss the lid away. 

drilled a bunch of holes in it for ventilation. 

you would need to make a bunch of "notches" around the lip of the plastic tub. so all the cables would end up between the case and the tub. 

 

================

have learned my lesson, i leave about 1 foot of cable to attach to pc, and the excess cable i wrap around my hand in smaller loop, and put 2 to 3 twisty ties on it. then i find nearest desk/table leg or side, even a wall. and put a bolt or only drive a long nail part way in. and hang the loops from it.  at end of it all. take one large twisty tie and put a couple around the entire bundle and nail/screw so it holds tight and non of the loops fall off and sinch up the ugly cables up so they are not as noticeable.

 

having one large ball of cables. ends up being a big pill of uglyness. if you can spread your loops of excess cable out. over a little bit of distance. it can be easier to hide.  more so if your willing to put nails or screws into a desk.  most manufactured desks. end up have some sort of extra space between rear of desk and wall.  before you slide desk all the way against wall almost. leave some room and put some screws or nails sticking out rear of the desk. so you can hang some excess loops from. 

 

================

not sure of your entire goal, but find a smaller size cardboard box. say put both your fists together (palms facing each other) for size of box, maybe a bit bigger and put your loops of excess wire in the box. leaving a trail of wires going in at one corner, and another trail of cables leaving the other corner. (this gets all sorts of messy tangles later on)

 

================

peg board could work, and lots of hardware out there already for various hooks, shelving, etc.. for peg board. 

 

================

WARNING: be careful, some of the cables make it audio cables, video cables, if you pack them up against other power cables you can get some "bleed through" that can start causing havoc with audio/video in how things hear/look. generally, it is the cheaper cables. but even the more expensive more shielding protected cables can get effected. 

 

 

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