Help planning a soft tubing loop

[Zando_]

Hey all, would you guys be able to help me out with planning a soft tubing loop in the $500-600 or so price range? I've got this rig: 

 

PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/KvLFMZ
Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/KvLFMZ/by_merchant/

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 2700X 3.7 GHz 8-Core Processor  (Purchased For $0.00) 
CPU Cooler: EVGA - CLC 280 113.5 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler  (Purchased For $0.00) 
Motherboard: Asus - ROG Crosshair VII Hero (Wi-Fi) ATX AM4 Motherboard  (Purchased For $0.00) 
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory  (Purchased For $0.00) 
Storage: Western Digital - Black NVMe 500 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive  (Purchased For $0.00) 
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  (Purchased For $0.00) 
Storage: Seagate - Barracuda 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  (Purchased For $0.00) 
Video Card: AMD - Vega Frontier Edition 16 GB Frontier Edition Video Card  (Purchased For $0.00) 
Case: Phanteks - Enthoo Evolv ATX Glass ATX Mid Tower Case  (Purchased For $0.00) 
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  (Purchased For $0.00) 
Total: $0.00
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-12-05 12:42 EST-0500

 

And here's what EK is reccomending me: 

 

 

Pretty sure I don't need most of that stuff, I already have a bunch of 120mm fans, and I'd use EK's basic black rubber tubing since I used that on the only other watercooled rig I've done and was really impressed with it. I'd like to keep the monoblock if at all possible though, espesh since I plan to upgrade to Zen 2 once it drops (part of the reason I got such an overkill mobo) and I just like the look of them. Any suggestions on how to drops more monies from the price would be appreciated though. Heck if I need to I can just skip on the backplate, the stock one on the Vega FE is already darn nice. 

[Happycowdance]

not sure if you need duel rads as just a regular 360 should be enough to keep the temps cool

[Zando_]

1 minute ago, Happycowdance said:

not sure if you need duel rads as just a regular 360 should be enough to keep the temps cool

True, I think the R7 2700X stays closer to it's 105W TDP, but the Vega FE can pull over 300W, IDK how much of that it outputs as heat though. But I think EK quotes that thicc 360 as being about 500W worth of cooling, so it should cover both. 

[Skiiwee29]

Since youre doing 5 EK Vardar 120mm fans, just get an 8way swiftech or silverstone PWM fan splitter. Its easier to manage all the fans at the same RPM instead of multiple profiles. 

 

Also, in your PCPartpicker list, you have a CPU cooler listed.. no need for that if you are going full custom loop. Also, I would recommend getting 2 of the concentrates to ensure you have enough fluid. 

 

Not sure about the G3 PSUs, but I know my G2 came with a PSU jumper so should be no need to get one from EK. 

[Bananasplit_00]

want to make it cheaper? get used rads and used fittings from craigslist or similar. got my rads for $50 for a 240 and a 360. i would also as always get Watercool blocks instead of EK ones for the performance but im pretty sure they dont make a monoblock and i dont know shipping rates to the US either on that.

[Zando_]

1 minute ago, Skiiwee29 said:

Since youre doing 5 EK Vardar 120mm fans, just get an 8way swiftech or silverstone PWM fan splitter. Its easier to manage all the fans at the same RPM instead of multiple profiles. 

 

Also, in your PCPartpicker list, you have a CPU cooler listed.. no need for that if you are going full custom loop. Also, I would recommend getting 2 of the concentrates to ensure you have enough fluid. 

 

Not sure about the G3 PSUs, but I know my G2 came with a PSU jumper so should be no need to get one from EK. 

Aight. I've already got the rig though, that's how it's set up right now. I do have a 1600W T2 I may swap in for uh... not really any reason because 1000W is already overkill. 

[Bananasplit_00]

Just now, Skiiwee29 said:

Since youre doing 5 EK Vardar 120mm fans, just get an 8way swiftech or silverstone PWM fan splitter. Its easier to manage all the fans at the same RPM instead of multiple profiles. 

 

Also, in your PCPartpicker list, you have a CPU cooler listed.. no need for that if you are going full custom loop. Also, I would recommend getting 2 of the concentrates to ensure you have enough fluid. 

 

Not sure about the G3 PSUs, but I know my G2 came with a PSU jumper so should be no need to get one from EK. 

thats his current build he wants to watercool, ofc it has a cooler  

[Bananasplit_00]

Just now, Zando Bob said:

Aight. I've already got the rig though, that's how it's set up right now. I do have a 1600W T2 I may swap in for uh... not really any reason because 1000W is already overkill. 

bruh its a T2, do you need more reason than that?  T2 is dope

[Zando_]

Just now, Bananasplit_00 said:

bruh its a T2, do you need more reason than that?  T2 is dope

Plus I got it on sale for $180 vs the $500 MSRP and the $250 or so I see them going for online. 

[Skiiwee29]

15 minutes ago, Bananasplit_00 said:

thats his current build he wants to watercool, ofc it has a cooler  

whooops lol, tired eyes... slept 14hrs yesterday after a hellish week of work and have been up since 2:30am. Thanks for correcting my mistake. 

[Zando_]

@Bananasplit_00 so this is the best block: http://www.performance-pcs.com/watercool-heatkillerr-iv-for-rx-vega-56-64-acryl.html#Details ? Says they've got one left rn. 

 

And for fittings, are all the barb ones standard thread sizes or do I need to look at those to ensure compatibility with the actual blocks?

[Bananasplit_00]

9 minutes ago, Zando Bob said:

@Bananasplit_00 so this is the best block: http://www.performance-pcs.com/watercool-heatkillerr-iv-for-rx-vega-56-64-acryl.html#Details ? Says they've got one left rn. 

 

And for fittings, are all the barb ones standard thread sizes or do I need to look at those to ensure compatibility with the actual blocks?

you need to make sure that the fitting fit your tube and are the right thread, generally the thread is G1/4. the heatkiller IV is as far as i know the best or second best block around for CPUs and GPUs but as the ones they are trading places with are dicks im not recomending them. the quality difference between my EK CPU block and my Heatkiller GPU block is massive, the heatkiller is definatly the better of the two. rushed my build and didnt get a heatkiller IV pro for my CPU and ended up with an EKWB Supremacy EVO and i dont like it tbh

[Zando_]

Just now, Bananasplit_00 said:

you need to make sure that the fitting fit your tube and are the right thread, generally the thread is G1/4. the heatkiller IV is as far as i know the best or second best block around for CPUs and GPUs but as the ones they are trading places with are dicks im not recomending them. the quality difference between my EK CPU block and my Heatkiller GPU block is massive, the heatkiller is definatly the better of the two. rushed my build and didnt get a heatkiller IV pro for my CPU and ended up with an EKWB Supremacy EVO and i dont like it tbh

Welp just ordered the Heatkiller IV for the Vega, since they only had one in stock I didn't want to wait. And I'll make sure and check on those fittings, the EK ones are G1/4 but they're $3.50 each, probs still cheaper than ordering them separately and paying shipping and such. This should be all I need, right (IDK what length the tubing is so I assume it's by the meter or something):

 

[Bananasplit_00]

1 hour ago, Zando Bob said:

Welp just ordered the Heatkiller IV for the Vega, since they only had one in stock I didn't want to wait. And I'll make sure and check on those fittings, the EK ones are G1/4 but they're $3.50 each, probs still cheaper than ordering them separately and paying shipping and such. This should be all I need, right (IDK what length the tubing is so I assume it's by the meter or something):

 

Yah you are going to need some water too, use battery water or filtered and deionized water instead of distilled because its like 1/4 the price and has everything you want gone removed

I'd probably pay up for the ACF fittings myself as I like compression much more than barb but both work fine

[Zando_]

Just now, Bananasplit_00 said:

Yah you are going to need some water too, use battery water or filtered and deionized water instead of distilled because its like 1/4 the price and has everything you want gone removed

I'd probably pay up for the ACF fittings myself as I like compression much more than barb but both work fine

I used distilled water last time IIRC. And I could get compression fittings, when I did the other loop I had some that were barb and some compression, I just used black zip ties on the barb fittings, cinched them down tight, and cut the ends of flush. Keeps them snug and it looks good while being cheap, I'd like to move to hardline eventually, so it wouldn't be wise to overpay on fittings I may replace.

[Bananasplit_00]

10 minutes ago, Zando Bob said:

I used distilled water last time IIRC. And I could get compression fittings, when I did the other loop I had some that were barb and some compression, I just used black zip ties on the barb fittings, cinched them down tight, and cut the ends of flush. Keeps them snug and it looks good while being cheap, I'd like to move to hardline eventually, so it wouldn't be wise to overpay on fittings I may replace.

sure, im probably sticking with soft because its cheap to keep going with it now that i have started. the mayhems ultra clear is really nice and really cheap  

[Zando_]

10 minutes ago, Bananasplit_00 said:

sure, im probably sticking with soft because its cheap to keep going with it now that i have started. the mayhems ultra clear is really nice and really cheap  

Yep, which reminds me I should just get clear concentrate, won't see the fluid with black tubing anyways. On the rig I did for a friend the R9 290x was vertically mounted so you could see the red fluid through the block, but mine will be in normally so there'll be no gazing at the fluid. 

[Bananasplit_00]

8 minutes ago, Zando Bob said:

Yep, which reminds me I should just get clear concentrate, won't see the fluid with black tubing anyways. On the rig I did for a friend the R9 290x was vertically mounted so you could see the red fluid through the block, but mine will be in normally so there'll be no gazing at the fluid. 

blocks are clear tho

[Zando_]

3 minutes ago, Bananasplit_00 said:

blocks are clear tho

Did forget about the CPU block didn't I... >insert derpface here< and the res too. May as well get red anyways, it's the same price as clear so why not. 

[ParkerWWW]

I have almost the exact same setup as you, but mine is rigid tubing and doesn't have a gpu in the loop but this is how I'm running it.

 

240mm in the front, 360 in the top, 5 vardar fans. It would be easy to run the loop from the cpu to the gpu and then back to the res.