Faulty PSU or???

[aandril]

Started with everything hooked up. PC Started, then turned off and this repeated. The PSU is a 1000w bronze.

 

Read some articles online saying to reset the mobo cmos. So unplugged the battery for a couple minutes and plugged it back in.

 

Tried to boot up again. Still in the on/off loop.

 

I removed all storage devices and RAM and other connects. Just CPU and mobo get power.

 

Tried the process again and the same thing.

 

My mobo is brand new, as well as my CPU. Thinking it might be a faulty PSU. Though I bought it from eBay and seller claimed that its working normal.

 

Or maybe it's my wall outlet?

I had a 885w air conditioner plugged into the same outlet though and runs perfectly normal on each setting... 

 

Now what?

[STRMfrmXMN]

What "1000W bronze" unit is it? It's very seldom you have a very high wattage PSU with bronze 80 PLUS efficiency as you tend to see super high-power systems paired with those, and those can have notable power bill differences with more efficient PSUs.

[aandril]

16 minutes ago, STRMfrmXMN said:

What "1000W bronze" unit is it? It's very seldom you have a very high wattage PSU with bronze 80 PLUS efficiency as you tend to see super high-power systems paired with those, and those can have notable power bill differences with more efficient PSUs.

It's an Apevia Jupiter 1000w.

AFAIK bronze means the efficiency of the PSU is 80-85%. That would bring the watt usage to 850w...

And if my 885w A.C. works in my outlet, why wouldn't my PC?

[palespartan]

49 minutes ago, aandril said:

Started with everything hooked up. PC Started, then turned off and this repeated. The PSU is a 1000w bronze.

 

Read some articles online saying to reset the mobo cmos. So unplugged the battery for a couple minutes and plugged it back in.

 

Tried to boot up again. Still in the on/off loop.

 

I removed all storage devices and RAM and other connects. Just CPU and mobo get power.

 

Tried the process again and the same thing.

 

My mobo is brand new, as well as my GPU. Thinking it might be a faulty PSU. Though I bought it from eBay and seller claimed that its working normal.

 

Or maybe it's my wall outlet?

I had a 885w air conditioner plugged into the same outlet though and runs perfectly normal on each setting... 

 

Now what?

If it was an outlet it would trip the breaker for the house and not boot loop like you're describing. It really comes down to the mobo (factory defects do happen), cpu, or psu. But power supplies will also boot loop sometimes if they detect a short in the system as to not burn out the psu or the component. Do you have other components for each item to start troubleshooting like a different mobo or system to try the psu in then the cpu and so on?

[aandril]

1 minute ago, palespartan said:

If it was an outlet it would trip the breaker for the house and not boot loop like you're describing. It really comes down to the mobo (factory defects do happen), cpu, or psu. But power supplies will also boot loop sometimes if they detect a short in the system as to not burn out the psu or the component. Do you have other components for each item to start troubleshooting like a different mobo or system to try the psu in then the cpu and so on?

Uh nope. Plan on going to my local computer place to pick up a new PSU (Thinking a 685w should be safe enough). If it's not the PSU that leaves the mobo or CPU. Which were both bought new. Is there another reason it could be doing this other than because of my outlet?

[palespartan]

1 minute ago, aandril said:

Uh nope. Plan on going to my local computer place to pick up a new PSU (Thinking a 685w should be safe enough). If it's not the PSU that leaves the mobo or CPU. Which were both bought new. Is there another reason it could be doing this other than because of my outlet?

Call the computer place first and ask them if they have components on hand so that you can diagnose yourself to see what you need to RMA. If its a small shop style place they might let you use their test benches and equipment to see what is actually wrong before you buy a psu you might not need. Also just so you know efficiency rating work in the other direction so if its a bronze 1000w it will deliver up to 1000w to the system and pull like 1100 from the wall. But again any outlet or circuit Ive ever come across wont have a problem with a gaming computer even some really power hungry ones that make 1000w look like nothing. but to eliminate the option try plugging it somewhere else too just to be sure.

[aandril]

My power button to mobo connectors couldn't be the issue, could It? I think I may have put them in wrong, but could that be the cause? 

[palespartan]

2 minutes ago, aandril said:

My power button to mobo connectors couldn't be the issue, could It? I think I may have put them in wrong, but could that be the cause? 

Doubtful but to be sure disconnect all of them and use a screwdriver to short the power pins to see if that works. The trick to diagnosing issues like this on anything (computers, cars, bikes, houses, etc...) is to eliminate things by testing everything you can one at a time so that you know that isn't the cause.

[aandril]

1 minute ago, palespartan said:

Doubtful but to be sure disconnect all of them and use a screwdriver to short the power pins to see if that works. The trick to diagnosing issues like this on anything (computers, cars, bikes, houses, etc...) is to eliminate things by testing everything you can one at a time so that you know that isn't the cause.

Well because the mobos manual says there' s a +/- side, but the connections themselves say power and restart, and on the backs are arrows on one half, I assumed the arrows meant to go on the +, or should they be -?

[palespartan]

3 minutes ago, aandril said:

Well because the mobos manual says there' s a +/- side, but the connections themselves say power and restart, and on the backs are arrows on one half, I assumed the arrows meant to go on the +, or should they be -?

For power and reset on motherboards all they do is short the two pins marked for each. The only ones where + and - matter are for the leds like drive activity and even then the only issue they will cause if the led to not turn on. It wont short or cause other issues like you're describing.

 

[aandril]

Just now, palespartan said:

For power and reset on motherboards all they do is short the two pins marked for each. The only ones where + and - matter are for the leds like drive activity and even then the only issue they will cause if the led to not turn on. It wont short or cause other issues like you're describing.

 

I should have added, after unplugging the mobo battery and plugging it in and trying again, the power to the computer seemed to be a little more lengthy when it first turned on... 

?

[palespartan]

I personally would take the cpu back out and just double check for bent pins. Its one of the few things you can do without having parts on hand to swap around.

[aandril]

9 minutes ago, palespartan said:

I personally would take the cpu back out and just double check for bent pins. Its one of the few things you can do without having parts on hand to swap around.

I've checked for bent pins. The cpu bay(?) is fine.

 

One thing though that I just noticed, my power connector for the CPU, the 4 pin, has melted a little bit.

 

What's the cause of that?

[aezakmi]

4 minutes ago, aandril said:

I've checked for bent pins. The cpu bay(?) is fine.

 

One thing though that I just noticed, my power connector for the CPU, the 4 pin, has melted a little bit.

 

What's the cause of that?

your CPU needs more watts than a 4pin connector can deliver

 

what CPU and board are you using?

[aandril]

1 minute ago, aezakmi said:

your CPU needs more watts than a 4pin connector can deliver

 

what CPU and board are you using?

My motherboard supports 8th gen cpus ... at least that' what it says. It's a gigabyte b360n WiFi. I'm using a 8700k.

[palespartan]

2 minutes ago, aandril said:

My motherboard supports 8th gen cpus ... at least that' what it says. It's a gigabyte b360n WiFi. I'm using a 8700k.

double check that it supports 6 core 8th gen because 8700k even stock pulls a lot of power for a 4 pin. Also it is unusual to have a non overclock-able motherboard and an overclock-able cpu. Any reason why you went for that combo?

[aandril]

5 minutes ago, palespartan said:

double check that it supports 6 core 8th gen because 8700k even stock pulls a lot of power for a 4 pin. Also it is unusual to have a non overclock-able motherboard and an overclock-able cpu. Any reason why you went for that combo?

I double checked. It says 8th gen CPU. I've checked compatibility searching google and it says the same.

I don't plan to overclock for gaming and a mere 15fps increase. I want the performance of the CPU for not just gaming but other tasks such as Adobe programs etc.

Another thing is that I plugged in the wrong connector for the CPU power. So it was the wrong connector that was melted a bit.

[aezakmi]

2 minutes ago, palespartan said:

double check that it supports 6 core 8th gen because 8700k even stock pulls a lot of power for a 4 pin. Also it is unusual to have a non overclock-able motherboard and an overclock-able cpu. Any reason why you went for that combo?

That

 

The gigabyte site says the board has support for the 8700k but it's kind of weird they used only a 4 pin connector

 

[STRMfrmXMN]

1 hour ago, aandril said:

It's an Apevia Jupiter 1000w.

 

Oh, yuck. Throw that out ASAP.

 

1 hour ago, aandril said:

And if my 885w A.C. works in my outlet, why wouldn't my PC?

That's not how 80 PLUS efficiency works. Why would they advertise it as a 1000W unit if it could only output 850W? Read the guide pinned on this subforum or in my signature if you want to know how 80 PLUS works.

 

Your outlet has nothing to do with this. Your PSU is crap, which is likely why these problems are occurring. 

38 minutes ago, aandril said:

I've checked for bent pins. The cpu bay(?) is fine.

 

One thing though that I just noticed, my power connector for the CPU, the 4 pin, has melted a little bit.

 

What's the cause of that?

YOUR PSU NEEDS TO BE DISCONNECTED IMMEDIATELY

 

That's literally a fire hazard. Go get something like a Corsair CX550M from Best Buy and throw that old PSU out while you're there. They do electronic recycling.

[awesomegamer919]

4 hours ago, aezakmi said:

That

 

The gigabyte site says the board has support for the 8700k but it's kind of weird they used only a 4 pin connector

 

4pin should be fine at stock, the CPU *should* power limit itself so you can't pull too much power. 

 

4 hours ago, STRMfrmXMN said:

Oh, yuck. Throw that out ASAP.

Agreed, it's a piece of shit 

4 hours ago, STRMfrmXMN said:

That's not how 80 PLUS efficiency works. Why would they advertise it as a 1000W unit if it could only output 850W? Read the guide pinned on this subforum or in my signature if you want to know how 80 PLUS works.

I'm 50/50 on whether the 80+ rating is real or not, leaning somewhat towards fake... 

4 hours ago, STRMfrmXMN said:

Your outlet has nothing to do with this. Your PSU is crap, which is likely why these problems are occurring. 

YOUR PSU NEEDS TO BE DISCONNECTED IMMEDIATELY

 

That's literally a fire hazard. Go get something like a Corsair CX550M from Best Buy and throw that old PSU out while you're there. They do electronic recycling.

Not sure I'd use a CX550m for an 8700K PC, but it's certainly a massive step up from what he has now. 

[orbitalbuzzsaw]

That PSU is, to put it bluntly, utterly shit. Get a CX550M or something of that nature

[aezakmi]

5 hours ago, STRMfrmXMN said:

Oh, yuck. Throw that out ASAP.

 

That's not how 80 PLUS efficiency works. Why would they advertise it as a 1000W unit if it could only output 850W? Read the guide pinned on this subforum or in my signature if you want to know how 80 PLUS works.

 

Your outlet has nothing to do with this. Your PSU is crap, which is likely why these problems are occurring. 

YOUR PSU NEEDS TO BE DISCONNECTED IMMEDIATELY

 

That's literally a fire hazard. Go get something like a Corsair CX550M from Best Buy and throw that old PSU out while you're there. They do electronic recycling.

Still, it should, at least, deliver 600W, there must be something wrong with the 12V rail, it shouldn't overheat the connectors.... or, the board inside could be a total fake and deliver like 200W, I'd say it's a 50/50, or a 70/30 maybe

I remember a friend also bought a "1000W" Shark PSU for his 4790 and GTX 770, the thing blew up while playing dragon age, guess it was 100W instead of 1000.

[STRMfrmXMN]

2 minutes ago, aezakmi said:

Still, it should, at least, deliver 600W, there must be something wrong with the 12V rail, it shouldn't overheat the connectors.... or, the board inside could be a total fake and deliver like 200W, I'd say it's a 50/50, or a 70/30 maybe

I remember a friend also bought a "1000W" Shark PSU for his 4790 and GTX 770, the thing blew up while playing dragon age, guess it was 100W instead of 1000.

Doesn't matter. If a high-output unit is that strongly misrepresented then it's a fire hazard, especially if the connections are being melted. OP should not do an RMA (though I doubt the warranty is more than two years) and should instead get a decent-quality unit.

[IAnthonyFX]

looking that your psu in amazon: 

Andrew H.

2.0 out of 5 starsIt fried my rig man.

March 7, 2017

Verified Purchase

I had to return this psu. I installed it on my existing rig and it fried my system board. After replacing the system board I also found out it took one or both of my dimms with it. After replacing the memory and ordering a corsair I'm back up.

Pros: blue lighted fan is nice I suppose, fits in my slightly cramped case, relatively quiet compared with some psus

Cons: it fried my rig man.

7 people found this helpful

 

I doubt it is anything but a fake doubt it is 1000w, doubt it is bronze with a blue fan for 80 bucks. Look, I am a cheap ass myself, but this was for sure not a good idea to pick up, get a new psu, see if your components still work, hopefully nothing is fried.

[aezakmi]

20 minutes ago, STRMfrmXMN said:

Doesn't matter. If a high-output unit is that strongly misrepresented then it's a fire hazard, especially if the connections are being melted. OP should not do an RMA (though I doubt the warranty is more than two years) and should instead get a decent-quality unit.

Yeah total junk, I'd ask for a refund if I were the OP

 

Then buy a CX550 or 650 maybe depending on the graphics card