Jump to content

Powering a car subwoofer using a modified computer power supply

Sleeper PC 2016

I got a Kenwood KSC-WA82RC and I want to use it with a home theater reciever but the power connector is different. It uses a 10 pin connector. What I want to do is Cut and splice the power and ground wires from a pci e power connector from a ATX power supply onto a 10 

pin connector (I got the right connector for it I just need to wire it up). I’m gonna be using this picture off google to wire it up. Would this work? All I need is power, ground, and signal. The sub is also fused so I think if something were to short it’ll be safe.

1E590358-4CB9-4A29-BA16-27A2BD4BBD8C.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I personally think you should get a proper amp. Even though it could work. It sounds unsafe as it wasn't intended for that use.

The geek himself.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

If you have a connector that physically fits in there, and assuming that pic is correct, you just need to either add the blue w/white stripe wire to power (yellows) to have the amp always on while PSU is on, or add a switch between the blue/white wire and power to manually turn it on. You'll also need to either plug a jumper on the 24pin on PSU or install a switch in it's place to also manually switch the psu on/off instead of unplugging.

CPU: AMD Sempron 2400+ / MOBO: Abit NF7-S2G / GPU: WinFast A180BT 64MB / RAM: Mushkin DDR333 256MBx2 / HDD: Seagate Barracuda 7200RPM 120GB

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, Being Delirious said:

I personally think you should get a proper amp. Even though it could work. It sounds unsafe as it wasn't intended for that use.

It's a ~8" sub rated at 65W RMS, with the only website I found contradicting that RMS rating by stating the amp nominal at 65W and then giving a max "RMS" of 200W (def some janky ratings but in the very unlikely scenario the amp requires 200W stable to provide the sub with 65W continuous would mean the amp is burning off over 100W as heat, even the cheapest audio stuff I've seen isn't that electrically inefficient). If the PSU can at least maintain a constant 10A load on 12V, or ideally at least 15A, it should be safe given it's wired correctly.

CPU: AMD Sempron 2400+ / MOBO: Abit NF7-S2G / GPU: WinFast A180BT 64MB / RAM: Mushkin DDR333 256MBx2 / HDD: Seagate Barracuda 7200RPM 120GB

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 4/16/2018 at 11:18 AM, meenmeen1103 said:

It's a ~8" sub rated at 65W RMS, with the only website I found contradicting that RMS rating by stating the amp nominal at 65W and then giving a max "RMS" of 200W (def some janky ratings but in the very unlikely scenario the amp requires 200W stable to provide the sub with 65W continuous would mean the amp is burning off over 100W as heat, even the cheapest audio stuff I've seen isn't that electrically inefficient). If the PSU can at least maintain a constant 10A load on 12V, or ideally at least 15A, it should be safe given it's wired correctly.

thats how i wired it. Eveyone says its a fire hazard :/

e8d6c6e0-9aea-42e3-b1da-f20b15d51aaa.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×