Watercooling a R9 270x/280x

[Ghost]

Welcome to my guide about water cooling a R9 series GPU. This is aimed at giving you a short introduction on what you will need and why; to water cool a R9 series GPU. The basics in the will apply to water cooling all GPUs.

 

Advantages of watercooling

 

For those of you new to water cooling; it usually gives you a quieter system, a cooler system or preferably both. In the R9's case, however, it will also give you a performance boost. Your GPU will automatically over clock until it hits a limit, be that a thermal limit or a power limit. When water-cooling you will probably be hitting the power limit first, unlike air cooling where you would probably hit the thermal limit first. This of course means more performance from your card, along with the other advantages you get. It also means overclocking will be automatic and take far less effort.

 

Buying a new loop

 

If you are new to water-cooling and going from zero then I really recommend checking out the Water-Cooling 101 and FAQ . They will give you a full overview of most of the parts you will need to buy to water-cool a GPU. If you want a base loop that you can replace parts on or add to I have made a guide for a "Basic CPU Loop" guide complete with a parts list. If you have done all of this and constructed a base loop you should carry onto the next section.

 

Adding a GPU to your loop

 

You will need a couple of parts to add a GPU to your loop. This will be the same whether you are adding to a H220 or a custom loop. First off you need a GPU block. At the time of writing this there are no blocks out there for the newer cards. I will put in a section at the end for news on water blocks coming out for the R9 series so refer to that if you are looking for a block for that card.

 

The most important thing when looking for a GPU block is to make sure you have a reference card. The easiest way to do this is to go to www.coolingconfigurator.com . Again, please note that the site needs to be updated for the newer GPUs and EK needs to release blocks first, however, if you are buying cards at launch you can expect it to use a reference design. This is the standard design that all "standard" GPU blocks will fit on. You can expect to spend around £100 on your GPU block.

 

You will also probably need another radiator if you want to add another GPU to your loop. There is a lot of info on radiators in the FAQ, however, you should be looking at adding a 240mm radiator to your loop for a graphics card. A lot of people will tell you that a 120mm is enough. Well that is true but it really depends on how fast you want to run your fans. In my opinion, for a reasonable fan level you should be looking at a 240mm radiator for 1 GPU and an 360 radiator for 2 additional GPUs. This applies to most GPUs with exceptions the exception being lower end GPUs. You have to remember that more radiator space means you can run your fans at increasingly lower speeds. There is a point of diminishing returns, however, if you pass it you will be spending ridiculous amounts of money and will probably know about it.

 

In addition to this you will also need fittings and tubing. You should make sure these with the rest of your current water cooling system. You will also need extra/new coolant.

 

In conclusion you will need;

 

• GPU block
• Another radiator
• Fittings, tubing and extra/new coolant.

 

Waterblocks List (10/October/13)

 

"Because the Radeon R9 280X is based on a Tahiti XT GPU (the very same GPU used on the Radeon HD 7970 and HD 7950 graphics cards) and no prescribed reference design the majority of graphics card manufactured have simply re-used it's existing circuit board design - either the most commonly used design is a AMD reference design (109-C38637) or a proprietary design such as ASUS DirectCU II and MATRIX.

 

As a result a lot of these graphics cards can be used with EK-FC7970 CSQ series water block or other water blocks from EK's portfolio such as EK-FC7970 DCII. In order to simplify the search for suitable and compatible water block EK has added more than 15 different Radeon R9 280X (as well as numerous Radeon R9 270X and -R7 260X series) graphics cards from various manufacturers to EK Cooling Configurator database and compatible graphics cards are being added to the list on daily basis."

 

-EKWB (source)

 

 

So it seems as if most 7970/50 blocks will fit future R9 cards. Please go to www.coolingconfigurator.com and check compatibility before you buy though!

 

Expect non-reference R9 blocks in the future as well as blocks with R9 2#0X written on then as oppose to 79#0.

 

 

*****************************

 

 

 

Thanks for reading. Let me know in this thread if something needs changing, adding, if you found this useful or if you have any questions.

 

Also let me know if you know of any waterblocks that aren't on the list.

[legopc]

mabey a stupid question but they said the 280x was a 7970ghz but is the pcs the same as the 7970??? 

[B NEGATIVE]

mabey a stupid question but they said the 280x was a 7970ghz but is the pcs the same as the 7970??? 

Its based on Tahiti but the PCB probably has a different layout,dont expect 7970 blocks to fit.

[Air tree]

I'm waiting for the R-290X and the waterblocks to come out for my build. I hope the waterblocks won't take too long to come out.

[B NEGATIVE]

I'm waiting for the R-290X and the waterblocks to come out for my build. I hope the waterblocks won't take too long to come out.

You may be a little disappointed,there is a rumor that the 290X will have the boards made by the AIB's,no reference cards.

EK will make one,so will alphacool and XSPC (probably the ASUS card as per usual) but dont expect Watercool or Aquacomputer blocks anytime soon.

 

This is rumour tho.

 

OP-Are you getting a R9 card? Guide with no practical examples?

[Air tree]

You may be a little disappointed,there is a rumor that the 290X will have the boards made by the AIB's,no reference cards.

EK will make one,so will alphacool and XSPC but dont expect Watercool or Aquacomputer blocks anytime soon.

 

This is rumour tho.

I prefer EK waterblocks so that's ok for me!

[B NEGATIVE]

Another little tip when mounting GPU blocks.

 

Get 2 bolts of the thread type used by the block, around 50mm long is ideal.

 

Cut the heads off them.

 

Screw them in to the block at opposing corners.

 

Flip the block upside down,prep the card (remove old pads and use the ones provided,Clean the die with Articlean 2 part kit,use non conducting-non capacitance TIM).

 

When you slide the card on to the threads and down on to the block,you will find the bolts you inserted will hold the card in place while you fit the backplate and bolt up,shifting blocks is a nightmare that rears its head once the blocks is up and running and you get poor temps

 

Bolting up the die mount is the same as a CPU block,work round each bolt tightening up a half turn each time on opposing corners.

 

Simples.

[B NEGATIVE]

Just speaking to Derick at EKWB,there are no reference design 280X's as such,seems the AIB's are making their own PCBs for those also.

[Ghost]

OP-Are you getting a R9 card? Guide with no practical examples?

This is a generic guide to cooling any GPU, these guides tend to be quite popular for people looking casually into water cooling their card before buying or in the planning stages of their build. It's just a brief overview on what to expect if you plan to water cool your GPU. As every water block is different, me owning an R9 card would give nothing to the people reading this. This is not a mounting guide or anything along those lines, which is why it's not in the guides section of the forum.

 

It is also a main thread for people to ask quick questions about watercooling the R9 series without the need to create dozens of threads on the subject.

 

Get 2 bolts of the thread type used by the block, around 50mm long is ideal.

 

I think this is the one issue with your method. Not everyone happens to own the correct size screw for this and not everyone has to tools on hand to cut the head off a screw. I certainly don't at any rate. I still find the easiest way to mount a gpu block is put the four corner screws (supplied with the block) into the correct holes on the gpu and use those as guides. Once you flip the card so the card is up-side-down you can then remove the screws and simply not touch the PCB.

 

Its less elegant method but something people can do in every instance and don't require a toolbox for. Simply doing it by eye is enough most times anyway.

 

Just speaking to Derick at EKWB,there are no reference design 280X's as such,seems the AIB's are making their own PCBs for those also.

 

Seems odd. Wouldn't the AMD version of the card be classified as the reference design?

[B NEGATIVE]

This is a generic guide to cooling any GPU, these guides tend to be quite popular for people looking casually into water cooling their card before buying or in the planning stages of their build. It's just a brief overview on what to expect if you plan to water cool your GPU. As every water block is different, me owning an R9 card would give nothing to the people reading this. This is not a mounting guide or anything along those lines, which is why it's not in the guides section of the forum.

 

It is also a main thread for people to ask quick questions about watercooling the R9 series without the need to create dozens of threads on the subject.

 

 

I think this is the one issue with your method. Not everyone happens to own the correct size screw for this and not everyone has to tools on hand to cut the head off a screw. I certainly don't at any rate. I still find the easiest way to mount a gpu block is put the four corner screws (supplied with the block) into the correct holes on the gpu and use those as guides. Once you flip the card so the card is up-side-down you can then remove the screws and simply not touch the PCB.

 

Its less elegant method but something people can do in every instance and don't require a toolbox for.

 

 

Seems odd. Wouldn't the AMD version of the card be classified as stock?

 

My method works for me,i have done it many times and its not hard to find the appropriate screws,normally available from the vendor in screws and fixings. Im not saying its the only way,just an easier way.

Feel free not to use it if its too difficult.

 

You dont own hacksaw?

 

Thanks tho.

 

EDITED: No wish to cause offence.

[Ghost]

My method works for me,i have done it many times and its not hard to find the appropriate screws,normally available from the vendor in screws and fixings.

You dont own hacksaw?

 

Seeing as i have yet to see any watercooled GPU's from you,i find it hard to beleive you have an 'easiest way' of doing it.

I'm not saying it doesn't work for you. I'm saying you probably need a workshop to use your method, a vice for example. Which not everyone has. Particularly first time water coolers and people who don't bother with case modding.

 

I don't actually own a hacksaw, or a vice where I am right now considering I have no use for one.

 

I have water-cooled GPUs in the past so I have put the block on multiple times.

[B NEGATIVE]

I'm not saying it doesn't work for you. I'm saying you probably need a workshop to use your method, a vice for example. Which not everyone has. Particularly first time water coolers and people who don't bother with case modding.

 

I don't actually own a hacksaw, or a vice where I am right now considering I have no use for one.

 

I have water-cooled GPUs in the past so I have put the block on multiple times. I think you misquoted me there a bit saying I have the easiest way of doing it. I said "I still find the easiest way of doing it is..." I haven't tried every method but it's what I find easiest.

 

And no problem, happy to help...

Why a vice?,all you need is a 1.99 hacksaw and a table.

 

 

EDITED: No wish to cause offence.

[Whaler_99]

 

Seeing as i have yet to see any watercooled GPU's from you,i find it hard to believe you have an 'easiest way' of doing it.

 

Thanks tho.

 

What exactly would posting a pic of a water cooled GPU have to do with anything? 

 

One of the problems I see with your method is the screw issue. Sometimes finding the thread type on the screw used by the manufacturer can be a real pain in the you know what. Sometimes they stamp in on the little baggie, sometimes they don't...

 

For mounting a backplate, yes, I can see how it would help, but in the end, I usually just hold it real steady, flip, slip a box under it, much like Tom at TTL does, then line up my backplate and away I go. Just take some patience. And if you mess up, just pull it off, clean your TIM and reapply and go back at it...

[B NEGATIVE]

What exactly would posting a pic of a water cooled GPU have to do with anything? 

 

One of the problems I see with your method is the screw issue. Sometimes finding the thread type on the screw used by the manufacturer can be a real pain in the you know what. Sometimes they stamp in on the little baggie, sometimes they don't...

 

For mounting a backplate, yes, I can see how it would help, but in the end, I usually just hold it real steady, flip, slip a box under it, much like Tom at TTL does, then line up my backplate and away I go. Just take some patience. And if you mess up, just pull it off, clean your TIM and reapply and go back at it...

 

It wil be either 6/32 or M3,not difficult,get a pair of each for future blockings

FYI,most vendors spec the hardware included,its a 2 min serch for that info.

This method is really good for the first timer,stops the worry of the PCB moving and having to go thru the prep all over again. Use it or dont,thats up to you.

[B NEGATIVE]

Because the Radeon R9 280X is based on a Tahiti XT GPU (the very same GPU used on the Radeon HD 7970 and HD 7950 graphics cards) and no prescribed reference design the majority of graphics card manufactured have simply re-used it's existing circuit board design - either the most commonly used design is a AMD reference design (109-C38637) or a proprietary design such as ASUS DirectCU II and MATRIX.

 

 

EK announcement.

Seems Manu's are going with the 7970 PCB,EK say some are compatible with exisitng blocks.

 

Be careful when purchasing a block,be thorough with your research.

[Ghost]

EK announcement.

Seems Manu's are going with the 7970 PCB,EK say some are compatible with exisitng blocks.

 

Be careful when purchasing a block,be thorough with your research.

Edited OP. Thanks.