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RUSI1I

After installing new PSU pc won't boot.

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Posted (edited) · Original PosterOP

Hello everyone first time posting here.

So, I bought new PSU because my old PSU had 6 pin GPU connector but my GPU (Rx580) needed 8 pins. My new PSU arrived today it's coolermaster mwe 650 80+ bronze. Of course everything was working fine before installing new PSU. I installed the unit tried booting but fans start for a second and then no response. I rechecked all cables for proper connection. Tried bare minimum to boot 1 stick RAM, cpu, and my GPU. Right now I have 2 GPUs older one (1050ti) and newer (rx580) Tried with both GPUs still no success. Tried resetting bios by removing cell from Mobo and holding down power button for 30-50sec to drain all electrical charge. I'll try to plus my old psu now if that works does that mean I got faulty unit? Or I should try something else? I don't have differe Mobo or cpu so can't try with different Mobo.

 

Update: Tried with old psu everything is working fine. So I guess new PSU is faulty unit. Although when I plugged in new PSU motherboard light was working (it only takes 5v but still...) Any way to know for sure that new PSU is faulty here? Paperclip test will determine that?

 

Update 2: Tried paperclip tests on both PSUs old one started spinning no problem. New PSU gave one click sound and fan didn't even spin. (This was done on wooden table.) Motherboard was still in case.

 

Update 3: removed new PSU & installed old one. Now my pc won't boot. I'm back to square one. Fans spin for a sec and then no response. Double checked all cables/connectors, Tried with one ram stick no data and all that. Tried paperclip test on old psu when it was inside case no success. I guess there's some issue with my case grounding and current discharge and all that maybe? Now I'm not even sure if new PSU is faulty or not. What should I do?

 

Thank you.

Edited by RUSI1I
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Old PSU still works and new PSU is broke? Time to return it. 

 

By the way, you could get a better quality PSU with a much lower wattage. If you find an MWE v2 of 450 or 550 watts you should get that instead


I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k (won) - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Kill Trident Z RGB - Force MP500 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - The venerated Hyper 212 Evo (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G2 650W - Black and green theme, Razer branwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

Linux Proliant ML150 G6:

Dual Xeon X5560 - 24GB ECC DDR3 - GTX 750 TI - old Seagate 1.5TB HDD - Dark moded Ubuntu (and Win7, cuz why not)

 

EVGA G3 threadSeasonic Focus threadUserbenchmark (Et al.) is trash explained, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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Make sure you installed the CPU power cable (eps 8 pin)

Make sure the 24 pin connector is fully inserted... tip : take a couple of finger tips and slide them under the 24pin header and now insert the connector and press down ,,, the finger tips will act as cushions and prevent the board from flexing too much.

 

Make sure you didn't force the pci-e 8 pin connector into the cpu connector or the other way around ... the connectors are keyed so you should not be able to do that.

 

You can test the power supply by itself by shorting two pins in the 24pin connector.

Connect a wire (paper clip , ethernet wire, whatever metal ) between the PS_ON hole and any COM (ground) hole in the connector :

ATX 24-pin power pinout - Album on Imgur

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Posted · Original PosterOP

Tried with old psu everything is working fine. So I guess new PSU is faulty unit. Although when I plugged in new PSU motherboard light was working (it only takes 5v but still...) Any way to know for sure that new PSU is faulty here? Paperclip test will determine that?

4 minutes ago, mariushm said:

 

 

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Posted · Original PosterOP
8 minutes ago, Fasauceome said:

Old PSU still works and new PSU is broke? Time to return it. 

 

By the way, you could get a better quality PSU with a much lower wattage. If you find an MWE v2 of 450 or 550 watts you should get that instead

Tried with old psu everything is working fine. So I guess new PSU is faulty unit. Although when I plugged in new PSU motherboard light was working (it only takes 5v but still...) Any way to know for sure that new PSU is faulty here? Paperclip test will determine that?

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Posted · Original PosterOP
21 minutes ago, boghubodaghi said:

DOA, especially if you managed to make it work with the other PSU. 

Tried with old psu everything is working fine. So I guess new PSU is faulty unit. Although when I plugged in new PSU motherboard light was working (it only takes 5v but still...) Any way to know for sure that new PSU is faulty here? Paperclip test will determine that?

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2 minutes ago, RUSI1I said:

Tried with old psu everything is working fine. So I guess new PSU is faulty unit. Although when I plugged in new PSU motherboard light was working (it only takes 5v but still...) Any way to know for sure that new PSU is faulty here? Paperclip test will determine that?

paperclip test might work, but if you do the paperclip test and the fan spins, it only tells you if the PSU is completely dead or not. Could still be partially dead.


I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k (won) - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Kill Trident Z RGB - Force MP500 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - The venerated Hyper 212 Evo (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G2 650W - Black and green theme, Razer branwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

Linux Proliant ML150 G6:

Dual Xeon X5560 - 24GB ECC DDR3 - GTX 750 TI - old Seagate 1.5TB HDD - Dark moded Ubuntu (and Win7, cuz why not)

 

EVGA G3 threadSeasonic Focus threadUserbenchmark (Et al.) is trash explained, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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wrote a long reply and i hit the back button by accident and this text box didn't save it.

 

Your leds turn on because the motherboard powers those and the chipset from the 5v standby of your power supply, which is like a separate mini power supply (like a usb phone charger inside the psu)

The chipset on motherboard monitors the PG (power good) pin of the 24 pin connector which tells the motherboard that the psu has all the voltages prepared and the psu is ready to fully turn on. The psu may have an issue inside and never sends the "all ok, ready to go" signal through that power good pin.

IF all's ok , the chipset connects that PS-ON wire to a ground wire and that's how the psu knows to start and output 3.3v , 5v, 12v and -12v through all the other wires.

So you can short the PS-ON to ground wire and you're tricking the psu into starting up and output the voltages, ignoring the messages sent by the psu through the pg pin.

The psu may output wrong voltages like 9v instead of 12v, and that could be why psu refused to start, so it's best to not have anything connected to psu when you do this test.

Turning the psu on should result in fan spinning (if the psu is not the kind that stays fully passive until at least computer consumes some amount of power, or internals heat up to at least 6o degrees celsius) ... then you should grab a digital multimeter and actually measure the voltages that come out the wires and make sure they're the proper voltages.

 

 

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Posted · Original PosterOP
35 minutes ago, mariushm said:

wrote a long reply and i hit the back button by accident and this text box didn't save it.

 

Your leds turn on because the motherboard powers those and the chipset from the 5v standby of your power supply, which is like a separate mini power supply (like a usb phone charger inside the psu)

The chipset on motherboard monitors the PG (power good) pin of the 24 pin connector which tells the motherboard that the psu has all the voltages prepared and the psu is ready to fully turn on. The psu may have an issue inside and never sends the "all ok, ready to go" signal through that power good pin.

IF all's ok , the chipset connects that PS-ON wire to a ground wire and that's how the psu knows to start and output 3.3v , 5v, 12v and -12v through all the other wires.

So you can short the PS-ON to ground wire and you're tricking the psu into starting up and output the voltages, ignoring the messages sent by the psu through the pg pin.

The psu may output wrong voltages like 9v instead of 12v, and that could be why psu refused to start, so it's best to not have anything connected to psu when you do this test.

Turning the psu on should result in fan spinning (if the psu is not the kind that stays fully passive until at least computer consumes some amount of power, or internals heat up to at least 6o degrees celsius) ... then you should grab a digital multimeter and actually measure the voltages that come out the wires and make sure they're the proper voltages.

 

 

Did the paperclip test on both PSUs old one started spinning no problem. New PSU didn't even spin for one sec. Did it on wooden table discharged myself. New PSU would give a "Click" type sound everytime I tried. I think new PSU is dead I'll replace it. Thank you everyone!

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Posted · Original PosterOP
2 hours ago, Fasauceome said:

paperclip test might work, but if you do the paperclip test and the fan spins, it only tells you if the PSU is completely dead or not. Could still be partially dead.

Updated the post got new issue now :(

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why bother so much,you have warranty,return it..

there us no particular way to test PSU,it can either work until you load it with like game or any of the CPU testing software,and then you get like random reboots.

Does that PSU spin the fan at particular load or temp of components?

If that is the case paperclip test is useless.

 

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44 minutes ago, RUSI1I said:

Updated the post got new issue now :(

Your other tests seem to show that regardless, the new PSU is faulty. 

 

Given the current circumstance, maybe it's best to rebuild your PC outside the case for more extensive testing, but imo you should replace the MWE that you got, first. @mariushm was right about the tests not being conclusive to begin with.


I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k (won) - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Kill Trident Z RGB - Force MP500 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - The venerated Hyper 212 Evo (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G2 650W - Black and green theme, Razer branwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

Linux Proliant ML150 G6:

Dual Xeon X5560 - 24GB ECC DDR3 - GTX 750 TI - old Seagate 1.5TB HDD - Dark moded Ubuntu (and Win7, cuz why not)

 

EVGA G3 threadSeasonic Focus threadUserbenchmark (Et al.) is trash explained, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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Posted · Original PosterOP
4 minutes ago, Fasauceome said:

Your other tests seem to show that regardless, the new PSU is faulty. 

 

Given the current circumstance, maybe it's best to rebuild your PC outside the case for more extensive testing, but imo you should replace the MWE that you got, first. @mariushm was right about the tests not being conclusive to begin with.

I ordered the replacement but now my old psu also stopped working. I'm worried about that

 

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