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The_One_Link

Mac Graphics Card Change

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Posted · Original PosterOP

Hi, I'm using a MacBook Pro (15-inch, Mid 2010) and currently have a GeForce GT 330M 512 MB Graphics card, and would like to upgrade this graphics card. I was wondering if this is possible (I can replace the graphics card myself), if it is, could anyone tell me how much space there is for the graphics card, so if I buy a new I'm not going to end up with one that's to big. Also which bus type I need would be appreciated. I know this is alot to ask but I would be very grateful if anyone could tell me this.

PS: Even if it's not possible to change the graphics card, I would like to know the bus type and size please.

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21 minutes ago, The_One_Link said:

I was wondering if this is possible (I can replace the graphics card myself)

no you can't, it's soldered to the motherboard

 

21 minutes ago, The_One_Link said:

PS: Even if it's not possible to change the graphics card, I would like to know the bus type and size please.

PCIe 2.0 probably judging by the age of the processor, no idea of the PCIe x number, not like it matters because laptops dont use the same slot as desktop cards anyway even if they are still PCIe


Studying abroad, ditched the crappy laptop for a do-all laptop double. Dried factory CPU paste, long memory timings, cooler cools the inductors but not the mosfets and an inch of unused internal space on both left and right

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV system agent undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+100/+500, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: +4GB DDR4-2666 19-19-19-43 2T Storage: 128GB Toshiba NVMe SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) + 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) Monitor: 1080p 120Hz IPS G-sync

 

The best thing to do is reading the clock speed that doesnt end in a pair of zeros. Software voltage readings are wrong if your motherboard's not a high end model

CPU: i7-2600K 4493MHz (multiplier: 43x) 1.35V (software) --> 1.4V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 104.5MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 10-11-11-30 2T 2133MHz, custom: 10-11-10-30 1T 2229MHz) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (OC'd 150Hz) TN Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Results: Cinebench R15 Single thread:159 Multi-thread: 787 (thx Meltdown Spectre patch) Super Pi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.11s 1M: 8.4s 32M: 7m 45.9s

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Posted · Original PosterOP
35 minutes ago, Jurrunio said:

no you can't, it's soldered to the motherboard

Surely you could melt the solder and then re-solder a new card on.

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1 hour ago, The_One_Link said:

Surely you could melt the solder and then re-solder a new card on.

First of all, you're not dealing with a card. We're talking the GPU package itself.

 

Secondly, different architectures have different BGA format and not compatible with each other, so you're still limited to Tesla architecture, which doesnt support DX11 and therefore I give it the "belongs to the history books" tag. 

 

Thirdly, power delivery problem. Your GT330M is rated for 23w and that's what the rest is designed to power. Because you're limited to the same architecture, faster will always means using more power, so you're not going anywhere here either.


Studying abroad, ditched the crappy laptop for a do-all laptop double. Dried factory CPU paste, long memory timings, cooler cools the inductors but not the mosfets and an inch of unused internal space on both left and right

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV system agent undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+100/+500, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: +4GB DDR4-2666 19-19-19-43 2T Storage: 128GB Toshiba NVMe SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) + 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) Monitor: 1080p 120Hz IPS G-sync

 

The best thing to do is reading the clock speed that doesnt end in a pair of zeros. Software voltage readings are wrong if your motherboard's not a high end model

CPU: i7-2600K 4493MHz (multiplier: 43x) 1.35V (software) --> 1.4V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 104.5MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 10-11-11-30 2T 2133MHz, custom: 10-11-10-30 1T 2229MHz) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (OC'd 150Hz) TN Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Results: Cinebench R15 Single thread:159 Multi-thread: 787 (thx Meltdown Spectre patch) Super Pi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.11s 1M: 8.4s 32M: 7m 45.9s

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