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Showing results for tags 'internal'.
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Hey guys!! I was wondering, is it possible to connect two NZXT Internal USB Hub simultaneously, off of a single USB 2.0 header on the motherboard?
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Hey, I just bought new ath 40x's. Now I need a new soundcard because I have only an on-board soundcard. So there are the internal soundcards that may cause trouble with the interference with the Mainboard. And the external that don't have the problem. I personally don't care about internal or external but after my research I have some questions. I mainly use my headphone for gaming fps games like cs go and sometimes music or YouTube. I want to spend like 50 or 60 euros. Cheaper is better if the quality is good. Max 70 euros. 1. There are external soundcards with 7.1 surround sound like the creative sound blasterx g5 with virtual surround sound 7.1 or the. So I really like the surround sound with 7.1 https://www.google.de/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=%23&ved=0ahUKEwiP-9bAza_VAhWHAsAKHfvSA9wQxa8BCB4wAA&usg=AFQjCNF1sHlk2z9QIx28jtvfnGP_UlkifA So my question is if there are also internal soundcards with a virtual 7.1 surround sound option or external soundcards at my price range with 7.1 surround sound. 2. What is your opinion. Do I really need virtual 7.1 surround sound to hear footsteps in a game like cs go? If not do you have an suggestions for me at my price range? Thank you for your answers -
Hey you guys, I am trying to decide on a new drive to house my 2tbs of movies / tvshows for iTunes. I currently have a 2tb WD external USB 2.0 drive. I am looking to upgrade because the drive is making more and more noise and I am getting worried. My question is should I go with another external drive or switch to an internal 3tb. I have been reading that external USB connections can go bad faster than standard internal drive but dont have any proof of this. If I go internal I am planning on a 4tb WD blue, if I go external I am contemplating USB / thunderbolt 2.0. Thanks for any advice.
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So I bought a 8tb WD My book external harddrive, because it was the cheapest 8tb harddrive I could find, but I want to use it as internal harddrive. I disassembled it from the case, and plugged it to another usb-sata converter just to test it works without its own case and it did work just fine, I insert the files I wanted and prepare to make the drive internal for new pc. (Ive done the same before when external harddrives case has broken over time, usually the harddrive itself still works just fine internally...) However, once I plug the 8tb drive inside with sata connectors, computer dosent recognize it at all and it dosent even start to spin. I tried switching the sata power and data cables to another drive and that drive starts to spin just fine and is recognized by the computer. I also noticed that if the computer power is on, and once you plug in the sata power to any drive it should instantly start to spin even without data cable, but the 8tb WD drive didnt even do that. If I plug the 8tb WD drive with the same computer to any usb-to-sata converter, it starts to spin and works just fine. So I was wondering, is there something Im missing? Does it need more power from psu or is there some compatibility issue? Any help would be appreciated Motherboard is Asus Prime x470, Ryzen 7 x2700 and psu is Corsair CX750M (750w), Windows 10 The computer build is new. The 8tb WD hard drive inside the case is model WD80EZAZ Thank you
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I've been wondering this for a while if using an external hard drive is fine as a internal hard drive or is it a bad idea like if it'll stop working or any other problem. Because I've been using it on my PC to save games since my 1TB internal hard drive ran out of storage.
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Hello! I just built my new PC and I’m super stoked! From my old build I had a 2tb HDD that works great, but as soon as I tried to connect it to my main one it did not get recognized, even through Disk Management. It does not even show up in my bios. I want to be able to use this disk and keep the data on it because it has all my AE project files on it and I need them. Is there anyone who can help out? Also, when trying to mount the disk in Disk Management it shows a 4gb partition but when I try to mount it it says something about a I/O port not working. Thank you for reading!
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I have recently bought a new system, with an ROG STRIX Z270-I GAMING and Corsair H115i platinum. -The motherboard only has one USB 3 internal connector and one USB 3.1 internal connector. Problem is that the AIO cooler needs a micro-usb connection, and there is an adaptor, however it is only USB 2, physically incompatible with USB 3 headers. I want a simple USB 3/3.1 internal header to micro USB connection, without having to buy a load of bulky adaptors, as I have very little cable management space (Phanteks ENTHOO EVOLV SHIFT X) Any help on this subject would be greatly appreciated :)
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Hey guys, my hobby server from my last post is coming along well! But since I plan on using it also as cloud storage, I was wondering what the cheapest option for that would be. I'm thinking about using an external USB HDD like the Seagate Expansion Desktop, since it's so fucking cheap. I know it will be slow and probably rather risky not using it in an raid array when it's on 24/7, but I just need big storage! I pretty sure it should work, but I thought that it's always better to ask!
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Hello, I have built my PC for some time now and I have noticed that it says 'Eject Device' and shows my main drive (ssd/w os) and one of my 1 tb drives with a 500gb separation (HDD). Just wondering on how to fix this as they are internal drives and out of all my time building PCs I haven't come across this before, is this common? Hoping you can fix this problem for me as I am having very little luck finding a solution on google etc. Thanks in advance.
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Hi, I have a WD Black 4TB in an enclosure used as an external HDD. I'd like to turn it into an internal HDD for my desktop system. I know going for USB to SATA connection is probably not as easy as just plug-and-play. However, besides having to back up the data, re-format the HDD, put it in the system and partition it, is there a quicker and easier way to turn the HDD into an internal one? Thanks in advance. -
I just installed a used internal wireless card into a system I just built with half used parts and I'm trying to diagnose whether or not I'm dealing with a dead wireless card or a dead pci-e port. Since the card won't show up in device manager what I'm wondering is would the card show up in there without any drivers installed on it? (admittedly, I forgot to check the model before installing, so I'll have to tear it down again to find out the model to manually search for the drivers if I have to...) But I ran driver booster which came up as fully updated with the card installed. If the card is dead I'm also wondering if it may have been my fault as there was a little accidental twisting of the wires that connect the antenna's to the board as I tried to unscrew/screw the antennae on. Are the wires on these things that sensitive??
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From the past few days, I'm experiencing a frequent Blue Screen of Death with the following message: "VIDEO-SCHEDULER-INTERNAL-ERROR". This error came into existence from the new 2200G graphics card update version 18.5.1 I tried many ways such as checking the disk and other stuff to fix it but the problem persists.
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This one may be a weird one. I have been trying to build a new PC out of spare parts. However, I want it to have an internal speaker that actually plays audio, and not just a Buzzer. So I took an old speaker apart and mounted it on the front of the PC. The problem lies here. you have to put your ear to the hole in the front (No, I didn't drill the hole in, it's an old PC case), even at full volume. I want it so it's loud enough where you could put it somewhere near the ground and you can work from a desk. Is there any way to make the speaker loud enough to hear it without damaging it?
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Hi! So I have my old hard drive from my PC and I have a SATA to USB adapter to plug it in to the laptop and use it as an external one. It might be a little corrupted(but not unreadable) just a little corrupted since it gave out read errors from time to time and it didn't boot Windows from it and sometimes booted but then crashed after a few minutes but otherwise worked fine the rest of the time(sometimes it booted just fine no problems) So I guess it's corrupted but not unusable. So now that I got rid of my old PC I want to use the hard drive from it as an external one(temporarily) for my laptop with the adapter mentioned above. Will it harm my laptop or it's filesystem in some way if I connect it via this adapter and it's corrupted? Or it will be fine and worst case scenario I just won't be able to access the hard drive? I know it's kind of a stupid question but I have never before successfully hooked up a SATA internal hard drive externally via USB so I just want to make sure it's fine.
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Are there any 3+ USB port hubs currently on the market that are powered by PCI-E alone? I don't care if its a x1 or x16 form factor but the big niche of a hub that I'm looking for is that it does not need an external power cable. Being picky so I can manage the cables properly both inside and outside my case. Thinking something along the lines of this Chinese board (Newegg.ca), but just significantly more reliable.
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Hi I am screwed: I have an internal 3 TB HDD which has suddenly stopped working. I tried to switch cables to be sure it is because of the HDD. When Iooked on the logic board of the HDD I recognized a change in color on the pins. They now look blue, red an partly still golden. Other soldered contacts are as far as I can see (I do not have a fitting screwdriver) all turned blue. I uploaded an Image that shows the back of my hdd focussed on the pins I expect to be connected to the inner of the HDD. I feel the HDD spinning when it is plugged to the power connector and it was detected once when I started the computer but then it disappeared. Overall my pc acted very weird when this problem occurred first today because it took at least a minute to boot (I have an I7 6700K and an ssd with Windows 10 on it) which it did not take anymore when I unplugged the HDD. My room is quite humid but I did not expect this to happen though. Is it really because of humidity and is there any good solution to that problem? My HDD is a WD Blue 3.0 TB with 64 MB of cache or should I rather say it was? I do not have warranty anymore and I cannot spend a lot of money on professional data recovery. EDIT: I found the solution and the drive works quite well now, but still: Don't be stupid as I was - create a backup! So, the pins I expected to be the problem (see first picture) do still look remarkably strange but I had to take away those screws and on the other side of the plate, there are the real pins that connect to the inner of the drive. You should now look at the second picture which shows the pins (that connect to the inner - I guess the read head) and as you notice they are not shiny but corroded and that was the whole problem. I read online that in order to fix that you should take an eraser gently clean the pins with it. It works quite fine and as long as you do not use too much force while doing that the plate will still be working (I do not guarantee anything.). Now the pins should be shining again and now when the screws are bolted you can hopefully revive your HDD (For me it worked.). By the way that grinding sound that my HDD made was quite silent and was not an issue (Several people with the same hdd noticed that).
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Which is the Best - Seagate 1 TB or WD 1 TB internal Hard disk ? And what is the difference in wd blue ,, wd black ,, wd vaiolet..etc
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i have 2 - WD 3 TB internal hard disks, i was wondering if there's like any economical way to use them as portable external hard disks. Suggestions are much appreciated.
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Strange issue. I have 4 internal storage devices connected to my PC. One 500GB M.2 as boot, a disk drive, and two other 1TB SATA HDDs, one with 2 partitions. Every once and a while, the two HDDs will disappear, as well as the disk drive, even in device manager. The only way to fix it is to click on "Scan for hardware changes" in device manager. Then they show up, and after a while (Usually after sleeping the PC) they disappear again. How to fix?? All help appreciated, -King_of_Oz
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Hey guys, I'm trying to run an old blu-ray player that I had laying around as an external player. I picked up this part that transfers power for the drive as well as sata data over usb 3. For some reason it doesn't show up in windows 10 no matter what I do. The drive powers on and I can load a disc in and close it, then it clicks like its working, but nothing happens on screen. When I'm in device manager on windows, when I power the unit off and back on the screen refreshes, so it would appear to me that it is indeed connected and interacting, but just not in the correct way. If anyone has done this before or has experience, please let me know. Thanks!
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Over the past weekend I made my first new build in about 4 years. Specs as follows: Windows 10 64-Bit Home i7-8700 ASUS Prime Z370-A 16 GB DDR4 2400 MHz I have 4 SSDs in total: m.2 NVMe SSD which is my main/boot drive. The other three are an array of Samsung SATA III's and I use them just as extra storage. My main SSD of the three has been causing problems, though. I had this drive for a year on my previous build and always worked fine. Last night it randomly was no longer detected in Windows. Restarted in BIOS and it wasn't detected there either after lagging up the boot process. I powered down and unplugged the power and data cables for this drive, and then plugged it back in. It was detected after that. It worked until just about 30 minutes ago. It was detected by Windows and BIOS, but when I went to open the drive for the actual files, it couldn't access the drive. Tried running a Chkdsk but it says it's now RAW, so A) this has to be wrong because I had it formatted about a year ago when I bought it and always worked fine, and B) even if it were actually RAW, I don't want to reformat it right now and risk losing tons of important data on it. I tried to restart the computer after this error and the computer just hung up on the motherboard's splash screen. Turned it off, unplugged the drive and the computer booted fine without it. Isn't this weird since it's 2nd in priority and not the boot drive? Just a few other things to mention: I've tried using different SATA III data ports on my motherboard with the other drives and they work fine, so it's clearly an isolated issue with this drive. In addition I've tried using other SATA power cable connectors with the other drives, and there is no issue with them either. The chipset and NVMe drivers are the latest offered by ASUS, Intel, and Samsung for their respective hardware. I'm using AHCI mode for SATA, and the m.2 is set to PCIe Gen 3X4 Does this sound like the drive is simply failing? If so, can I at least clone the data somehow if I can't re-access the drive? Thanks.
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Hello everyone, thanks for reading this question. So, when I was opening up my laptop to replace my hard drive with an SSD I broke off a latch that holds down a thin ribbon cable that connects to the keyboard. If anyone knows how I could fix it that would be great. I tried electrical tape, but that didn't work. Do you guys think I will need to get it soldered or order a new MOBO? The circled in pink is the part that holds the ribbon cable in place. Circled in green is where the ribbon cable is inserted. Without that cable connected, I can't use my keyboard at all.
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I'm looking for something a bit unique today everyone. I have four unused 5.25 drive bays. I've settled on a very nice Blue-Ray Burner for the first, a feature full fan controller for the second, a compartment for sensitive electronic information storage items for the third, and an internal card reader for the fourth....with a floppy disk drive. I have used up my one USB 3.0 header on my Asus M5A99FX PRO R2.0 already and so I would prefer one without USB 3.0. Heck, I don't even know if I have 2.0 slots left on that board. All I really want is something that can read and write SD card (and variants) and floppy that functions in a 5.25-inch drive bay that can communicate with this motherboard. Extra card formats that the item can read and the lack of redundant features like USB ports and fan controls are nice bonuses. I already suspect that the answer is going to end up being "it doesn't exist" but I've decided to make this post in case someone surprises me. I'm not new to the computer world (or this neck of the woods) but I want to know if I just happened to miss some, "diamond in the rough". Thanks for any help you can provide.
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01639694M/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_ezF7xb8GK62JG https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0179DQM34/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_CBF7xbM9B06T6 What is the difference between these ssd, besides the price and the quoted speeds. I can't figure out why the quoted speeds are different. They are both nvme m.2 pcie 3.0 x4. What am I missing?
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Hi guys, I have a question I've recently revived an old notebook i had laying around. I'm intending to use this notebook to take notes during class (so i don,t need to carry my gaming laptop around the whole day) It's a Dell m1210 XPS with an Dell Wireless 1490 802.11a/b/g Mini PCI Card But can i upgrade this card to the new AC or N kind of 802.11 ? I've searched around the web but it says it can depend on the MOBO but researching this technical aspect is not my strongest point. If you know the answer thank you !!!
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