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  1. Problem: Built my PC 2 years ago and after some months I noticed that my front panel usb 3.0 ports started "flickering" when my phone got connected(with original phone cable, not bent or broken/soldered) so it would flash on and off, connected and disconnected. Solved the problem by connecting it to the back of the PC, letting me get to my files and stuff. After some time I bought a VR(Rift S) and played with no problems until 2 months ago where my VR headset would randomly disconnect. I thought it was my VR headset or some software problem but then when connecting my phone to the back ports
  2. I am planning a new build using the corsair 4000D airflow case. There is a USB 3.2 gen 1 type A port in the front panel. I was wondering if I could connect that port to a different type of USB header like a USB 3.1 gen 2 header) because, I don't want to spend around 400 dollars on a motherboard only for one specific USB header.
  3. Hello. I have an MSI B460 TOMAHAWK motherboard and I was wondering if it supports USB 3 (if it has pins so that I can connect the front USB 3 on my case) Thanks!
  4. Hello! This is my first post on the ltt forum. If I`m breaking any rules, please tell me and I`ll comply. At the moment I`m using this broken cable that came with my Note 8 to charge my phone. I was thinking about getting a quality one for all my needs, but also something more special than a basic Samsung one. As more and more things are switching to USB-C, I figured it would be a good investment. I considered those custom, coiled cables that I see people use for keyboards, but I don`t think I`ll be able to fast charge with something like that. So far my option is the Night Cable from Cabl
  5. ones that need sata power and those that doesnt is there any difference?
  6. I want to make a setup with my PC away from me but I just don't know where to start. I essential want to have a dock at my desk with my Keyboard Mouse and Video source running from the dock to my desktop. That would be elsewhere like a Closet or other room nearby. I've been looking for steps or info on how to do this but nothing. Thanks for any suggestions,
  7. So, I have been playing VR for ages, but I've always had my Oculus sensors in USB 2.0 and headset in 3.0 (couldn't run all 3 at same time.) Finally, I figured I'd just upgrade my computer and add a USB 3.0 card. I bought a "Rosewill 4-Port External USB 3.0 PCI-E card" (very well reviewed, affordable.) But now it appears it's incapable of doing anything except the VR sensors (and that I'm unsure of, but Oculus recognizes them.) My XSplit software recognizes my Razer Kiyo as a "capture card" any time it's hooked up in a slot on that card My Oculus Quest absolutely will not conne
  8. I am currently trying to troubleshoot my motherboard's rear USB3.0 ports not functioning as anything other than USB2.0. USBTreeView is reporting Superspeed USB3.0 capable ports that don't correspond to any of my physical ports. Because I am using a HAF-X case, which predates internal headers, I can't just plug those in to try. Can anyone suggest any USB3.0 expansion solution? I am unfortunately out of PCI slots and hot swap bays, so ideally a 5.25" bay or conversion of the front USB3.0 ports would be ideal. I've looked around but I couldn't seem to find any way to directly go from male USB A (
  9. So as the title says, I have a set of motherboard USB ports that are not reporting as anything other than USB 2.0. I am running an Asus x99-a motherboard (on the 2017 BIOS), the manual for which confirms it should be USB 3.0 ports, but inserting a USB 3.0 device in any gives the message that it can perform faster if plugged into a USB 3.0 port. USBTreeViewer reports all ports that correspond to the physical ones as "H" and in SupportedUsbProtocols Usb300 as 0 (no). I've tried uninstalling drivers and reinstalling them with no change. I've tried the drivers from the manufacturer's site (only AS
  10. Are there any 3+ USB port hubs currently on the market that are powered by PCI-E alone? I don't care if its a x1 or x16 form factor but the big niche of a hub that I'm looking for is that it does not need an external power cable. Being picky so I can manage the cables properly both inside and outside my case. Thinking something along the lines of this Chinese board (Newegg.ca), but just significantly more reliable.
  11. Hey Guys, So I am having this issue with USB3 HD's that I cannot safely eject them from the PC. I have searched the net but have not found any solution that works. SPECS: R7 2700X ASUS X470 Pro 64 GB RAM Win 10 X64 1909 Build 18363.836 I can eject thumb drives smaller than 64GB, but anything over that, Pops the error that the drive cannot be ejected as some application is using it.
  12. Hello together, I recently bought an active USB 3.0 extension cable to power my Oculus Rift Sensors. (Link) Now that I tested the cable I found out it wont work. I plugged it into an external power supply but oculus and other software tells me that the device is operating at USB 2.0 speeds. After some google research I also came across the question of current backflowing into the pc. Is that true? If yes, isnt that dangerous for the mobo? Why are active USB cables built like this? I hope someone can help me.
  13. I'm looking to buy a new case and the one i have my eyes on, has 2xUSB2.0 and 1xUSB3.0 and my motherboard has support for 2x front panel usb3.0 So is it possible to change the case's usb ports ?
  14. Back in early Autumn last year I updated my aging pre-built HP with an Asrock B450M Pro4 motherboard, Ryzen 5 2600, 16 GB DDR4 and kingston M.2 NVME SSd (Which won't boot to windows/windows won't install properly, but that's a separate issue). After updating the hardware, none of the USB3 ports(case or motherboard) work with storage devices. They don't show up in BIOS/UEFI and of course they don't show up in OS. When I plug in my toshiba 1T external harddrive the blue LED for USB3 lights up and the drive spins up. But it's not registered by the pc and eventually stops. All other types wo
  15. I have an old acer aspire 5738z Laptop and the laptop doesn't have USB 3.0 or PCI-Express neither :( and i really need the usb 3.0 so badly. I looked in the Internet and didn't find anything helpful so I thought you can help me out. I have an Idea but don't know how helpful it is so here your turns come to help me: if I took my CD-Rom off, I would have an empty SATA -DATA+Power slot! is there any way to have an USB 3.0 hub/Port installed in the Sata slot????? if not, I need your suggestions plz. I can't wait for your reply ☺
  16. So I just finished a build on the MSI Z390 MEG ACE Motherboard, my case has an internal rgb box that requires usb 2.0, I have an NZXT HUE 2 box for my fans that requires usb 2.0 and my NZXT kraken cooler requires a usb 2.0 connection for the lights to work. The only problem is that the motherboard only has 2 usb 2.0 headers. I know that usb 3.0 is backwards compatible with 2.0 so is there any way that I could use some breadboard wires to plug the cooler into a usb 3.0 header? I did something similar in another build where I had to plug a front io connector into a non-standard
  17. So I have a friend that made a brand-new PC and has a very particular issue. He has both wired keyboard and mouse but windows doesn't detect them. But, when he plugs in the mouse to the USB 3.0 port it works. On the other hand, the keyboard doesn't work no matter where he plugs it. He can't even access the BIOS. We tested the keyboard when testing the components before putting them inside the case and it worked fine. Lastly, we tested every single USB port on the system with a thumb drive and it got picked up and successfully wrote and read files from it. I honestly have no idea what the probl
  18. This has happened on my 7 year old Intel build and on my new AMD build. Current motherboard: MSI b450 gaming plus max. Drivers and BIOS are latest from their site. Keyboard: Razer blackwidow stealth 2016 Mouse: Steel Series Sensie OS: Windows 10 When I plug my mouse and keyboard into my pc directly, everything works fine. When I plug them into either of the usb switch hubs I have, there are issues that occur at random: Cursor is jerky Cursor stops moving. Mouse is still lit. Have to unplug and replug in. Keyboard will stop typing for a few sec
  19. Bit of backstory: This was the first motherboard I used for my own custom PC. MSI Krait Z97S. After I bought an Oculus Rift kit with 3 sensors two years later, I started to have USB problems between overcurrent and bandwidth. Ports we're still working just frequent errors, so I upgraded and boxed the old system away. Another year and a half later I've decided to bring the old system back and sell it to my friend, dirt cheap. Problem: I assembled the old system on a cardboard box to see if everything works. Load and behold overcurrent draw detected. Not
  20. So i got an old PC im using as media server and i was wondering if I could get USB3 to work on it using a PCIE X1 (I've got this one from another build) to USB3 card or is there a hard limit within the MB/CPU I'm using a Asus p8h61-m lx and aN i5 3470
  21. I have been using 7 external USB3 drives on my PCs for a while, mostly for media storage, getting a larger drive when the older ones fill up or get more than a few years old. I have a rats nest of USB drive power bricks for them to have to keep dust free, as well worrying about the drive enclosures getting dusty themselves. I considered using a storage container to hold the drives and the large surge protector and power bricks. I was going to cut a hole for an old case fan with a filter on it and cut exhaust holes for ventilation and dust protection. Or I could just put
  22. Hi from France everyones ? So basically, I'm struggling hard to find the perfect match for a dock to plug at my 16" MPB, and I'm wondering if you have some ideas. The question is do I need to go full Thunderbolt 3 powwwer or can a strong "simple USB-C" be enough for my needs ? (because obviously I would much likely prefer to save the €100++ extra) Speaking of my needs : - a 1440p monitor - another one at 1080p (60hz for both would be awesome ofc but I guess 30 is ok) - full gigabit ethernet port - at least 2 USB 3.x type A (external drive and keyboard) - a s
  23. Hi everyone! Whilst rebuilding my PC, I managed to somehow pull the housing from the USB 3.0 header - I shall also name this connector the Devil now, albeit I never had any issues with it in any of my other builds... So, my quesiton would be, shall I try to put the housing back in? I haven't noticed any bent pins. Or should I connect the connector without the housing? I don't mind if it is loose and can get out, since I don't move my PC a lot. The mobo: ASUS B450-I STRIX (m-ITX, so no PCI-e expansions and extra USB2 Headers) The case: Cooler Master Q300L
  24. Hello, I really need your help. I've been trying to get into my windows account to no vain, it says that my password is incorrect which is cetainly not true. I've tried some programs like ONTP&RE which gets stuck at "loading kernel" and Ophcrack which doesn't load correctly. I tried to reset the password using a trick from lifewire by using a Windows installation dvd but for some reason the keyboard and moust don't work and I cannot get past the language select screen. Keyboard is Corsair K55 and the mouse is Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum, both installed on thetwo USB2 slots of the b
  25. So I got a new usb (Kingston DataTraveler 100 G3), and I wanted to transfer some songs just to see it workin, and it's great, it gets going....aaaannd it goes down to zero. I'm thinking ok, some problem with windows, maybe some file was corrupted or something, it will just continue...but no, for the whole transfer it gets up to like 20 MB/s and then just drops to zero again, and goes up, you get the point. Now I saw some post online complaining about the same thing and it was also a similar kingston usb, so maybe it could just be that it's a shitty usb, but since I don't wanna believe that...n
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