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These SSDs reliable? https://www.amazon.com/KingDian-Internal-Solid-Desktop-Laptop/dp/B018K3AV7A/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1496122241&sr=8-7&keywords=64gb+ssd Or https://www.amazon.com/DREVO-X1-2-5-inch-Solid-State/dp/B01K1W7JNW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1496122241&sr=8-6&keywords=64gb+ssd or https://www.amazon.com/Silicon-Power-Endurance-Internal-SP060GBSS3S60S25AE/dp/B01M2UUACN/ref=sr_1_10?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1496122585&sr=1-10&keywords=ssd

I am looking for a huge project. Im 16 Years old and want to build a car from scratch. I want it to be road legal. Preferably the car would be Electric, because I am more experienced in electronics then petrol engines. I know how big of a project this is and i want it to be a multi-year project. Any idea on what motor to but along with other parts. i dont want to use a donor car, but it is an option. Any ideas?

Hey does anyone know the updated gaming benchmarks for ryzen systems (1800x) vs an intel 7700k, or equivalent to ryzen, since some games have been updated to its architecture?

Hi all, I'm very new to PC building and I have a question about what fan I should purchase. Preferably under 40 dollars, however noise is not an issue (I use noise cancelling headphones). Thanks! -LordButkus

Seeking the best workstation/ gaming/ render configuration, budget is max out at 6500USD. This will be a small design business build for the next 5-7 years, hoping to be able to churn out 3D render, video-editing beast with 4k gaming on the side. Currently what I have compiled for specs so far: ( please suggest otherwise for even better performance) check the attachment. Any experts out there can suggest a better build or adjustments let me know. Operating System: Windows 10 Pro (64-bit Edition) Gaming Chassis: NZXT Source 340 Mid-Tower Gaming Case w/ USB 3.0, Side-Panel Window (White/Black Color) Extra Case Fans: 4X 120mm Thermaltake Riing 12 Series High Static Pressure 120mm Case/Radiator Fan (Blue Color LED) Noise Reduction Technology: Sound Absorbing Foam on Side, Top And Bottom panels, and more(1) CPU: Intel® Core™ Processor i7-6900K Eight-Core 3.20GHz 20MB Intel Smart Cache LGA2011-V3 Freebies: None Performance Tuning Protection Plan by Intel: Intel® Core™ i7-6900K Performance Tuning Protection Plan by Intel Venom Boost Fast And Efficient Factory Overclocking: Extreme OC (Extreme Overclock 15% or more) CPU / Processor Cooling Fan: NZXT Kraken X52 240mm RGB CPU Liquid Cooling System w/ Copper Cold Plate - Extreme Cooling Performance (4 x BLUE (Push-Pull) Tt Riing 12 Series Case/Radiator Fans) Motherboard: MSI X99A SLI PLUS ATX w/USB 3.1, Intel GbLAN, 4x Gen3 PCIe x16, 2 PCIe x1, 1x M.2 PCIe & SATAIII, 8x SATA 6Gb/s RAM / System Memory: 64GB (8GBx8) DDR4/3000MHz Quad Channel Memory (Corsair Vengeance) Video Card: GeForce® GTX 1080 Ti 11GB GDDR5X (Pascal)[VR Ready] (Dual Card (SLI)) Sli Bridge: NVIDIA HB SLI Bridge for GTX 10 Series EVGA Power: None HTC VIVE Virtual reality Headset: None Freebies: None Video Capture Card: None Power Supply: 1050 Watts - EVGA SuperNOVA 1050 GS 80 Plus GOLD Certified Fully Modular NVIDIA SLI and Crossfire Ready Power Supply M.2 SSD: 1TB SAMSUNG 960 EVO PCIe NVMe M.2 SSD - 3200MB/s Read & 1900MB/s Write (Single Drive) INTERNAL PCI-E SSD CARD: None Hard Drive: 480GB SanDisk Z410 SSD + 5TB SATA III Hard Drive Combo (Combo Drive) Secondary Hard Drive: None Hard Drive Cooling Fan: Vigor iSURF II Hard Disk Drive Cooling System (1 x System) External Storage: None Optical Drive: None Optical Drive : None External Optical Drive: None WiDi Router: None Internal Wireless Network Card: None Sound: HIGH DEFINITION ON-BOARD 7.1 AUDIO LCD Monitor: 28" ASUS PB287Q 3840 x 2160, 1ms GTG, 60Hz, HDMI/MHL, DisplayPort. True 4K Ultra High Definition Gaming Monitor (Single Monitor) Cables: 10-FT HDMI v1.4 Cable Type-A Male to Male High Speed Cable (2 pieces) Speakers: Creative Inspire T3300 2.1 Speakers System Internal Network Card: Onboard Gigabit LAN Network Keyboard: AZZA Multimedia USB Gaming Keyboard Mouse: CyberpowerPC Standard 4000 DPI with Weight System Optical Gaming Mouse Mouse Pad: None Headset: None Gaming Apparel: None Gaming Gear: None Fan Controller/Temperature Display: None Internal USB Expansion Module: NZXT Internal USB 6-PORT Expansion Module + USB Bluetooth Module External Wireless Network Card: None Wireless Routers/Hubs: None Docking Station: None Bluetooth: None Flash Media Reader/Writer: INTERNAL 12in1 Flash Media Reader/Writer (BLACK COLOR) Video Camera: None Power & Surge Protection: NuGiant Energy Saving Smart Surge - 6 Outlets w/ 3 Energy-Saving Outlets auto ON/OFF based on your PC (32002) USB Hub & Port: Internal USB 3.0 4-Port Hub External USB ADAPTER: GWC USB 3.0 TO HDMI ADAPTER

Hello I wanted to ask if someone in this forum has any experience with XEON PHI. I can see that you can get a XEON PHI processor for just 350 dollars: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Intel-Xeon-Phi-Coprocessor-3120P-Processor-Board-SC3120P-/142226338896?hash=item211d59b450:g:De8AAOSwEzxYY34W I can see in the documentation that you can set them to native mode. But it is uncertain wheter you still need to compile especially for the PHI or if all cores are shown in the taskmanager. Has anyone tried this? Another similar topic: no youtuber so far seems to have shown or reviewed that the newest XEON PHI actually is literally like any other CPU. It needs a LGA 3647 motherboard and Knights landing has up to 70 Cores with 1.5Ghz. I would love to see how it performs in gaming or even cinebench! This thing is an ATX board btw: So does anyone here have any experience with the XEON phi or the newer Xeon Phi Host CPUs?

So, here is the mystery. I have an internet connection that is business class and 150 down 45 up (megaBYTES not bits I made sure, plus when you pay that much for a business line they stop lying to you and fluffing you off). I get that on paper when doing benchmark tests and I've gone through the technicians to see if something is upstream that is causing problems. There was but that got resolved and speeds did not improve. I have run everything through checking for leakage in the line from physical cable breaks to interference. Again, a horrifying amount of them but ALL have been resolved. I've checked multiple sites both low and high traffic during multiple times. Consistency is strong but the result is weak. I'm getting something like 7-10 megabytes per second both before the fixes upstream and the cable problems regardless of site so this tells me that internet is getting through but it isn't being utilized because the speed was compensating for the horrific telecommunications infrastructure before. I've also made sure to do tests with no other internet usage on a single computer that is turned on and I am wired. I have also asked several technicians and the answers were the same. The problem is on my computer. This computer is in perfect security health and I use glasswire to check all connections. No viruses or anything of the sort are installed on this computer. No stealthy usage of my computer as a DDOS bot. I am using Windows 7 SP1 64-bit Ultimate edition. Oh, and the physical plug on my motherboard that I plug into is a gig. connection and the cables used are Cat5e heading into fiber optics through and through. So, what is the solution to this puzzle?

Hello Forum, I'm looking to speed things up for my boot time, the main reason being is that my system "posts" three times basically before entering the boot-stage and loading windows, which usually takes around 5 seconds (Samsung 950 Pro M.2). So how can I make sure that it's not posting for that long? If you have any idea please let me know What I've done so far: Installed the latest driver for the M.2 Drive from Samsung. Initialized Fast Boot also for next boot in case of AC Power Loss. Boot priority is as followed: Windows Boot Manager, Samsung SSD 950 and 3rd Samsung 850 EVO. There's something called POST Delay Time, which delays the post obviously to make it easier to access the bios, should I tweak that? It's currently set to 3 seconds. Any other options that needs to be fiddled with? Thanks in advance

So, Vega 64s from XFX are in stock on Amazon, for $500. This is good news! But, some things will need to be clarified before I just go buying one... Firstly, no budget is enforced on something I really want. Secondly, this is more complicated than which one is best. It's what you think is WORTH it. Thirdly, fanboyism will be immediately reported. If you blindly love Team Green, or Team Red, awesome. Don't shit on this post, please. Alright. Vega 64 is 500 now. That's incredible to see. Performance, when water cooled, is a whole new story, however. Lots of things to keep in mind. FineWine improvements to the Vega could bring it ahead of the 1080, and we all know Nvidia sucks at driver support. With the Vega at 500 and a waterblock at 130, this could be a killer combo! One caveat, however... the Vega draws SO MUCH power. And overclocking it will worsen that power draw. I've seen examples where it drew 435 watts during a Furmark test. That's insanity. I know on water, the Vega chip stays nice and frosty. But if it's anything like Ryzen, with a voltage wall, it'll get sent back to Amazon with a refund request. Now, the 1080 is a solid contender, but Jay has taught me to go as high as I can, when buying, so that I don't need to upgrade sooner. So, probs 1080ti, right? I'm also interested in watercooled SLI/CF, however, since I've wanted that enthusiast level hardware for a while now. Just looks damn great, you know? This also is a restriction, because x2 Vega at full pin, overclocked, would be close to 850w of power, JUST for the GPUs. So, my dilemma is this: Vega 64, watercooled @ $630, huge power draw with possible improvements over time. Feel good purchase. OR 1080ti watercooled @ $859, better power draw, could be worse when OC'd, shoddy driver support, but current King of the Hill. What would YOU do, and why? Can anyone show me benchmarks of their Vega 64 + 7700k system, so I can see if the Vega 64 got better over time? Thanks!

So I come here asking for help in getting faster Internet. Right now I have wireless Internet threw a company called speed connect. It is horrible. I don't have many options other then that. But the reason I ask is that there is a verizon tower near me and fiber runs in front of my house that goes to the tower. Also I have a 50 foot tower installed just to get the crappie Internet I have now. Is there anything I can do to fix my problem with the thing's I have avalble. Any help with this would be awesome.

Hi, I recently built a ryzen 5 1600x system. Full specs are here. I know it says overclocked to 3.8 Ghz but I have disabled this to rule out that as an issue. I really want to get this fast boot working because currently my bios time is 24 seconds according to task manager which is pretty slow these days for a system like mine. I also timed it with a stopwatch to verify. It's not my boot drive because I have a samsung 960 evo 250GB which is m.2 and insanly fast There is an option in my asrock motherboard's uefi bios that says fast boot. It says that you must be running windows 8 but I am running windows 10. Is this the case because many other people have got it to work. It also says that if you are using an external graphics card. Mine is a gtx 1060, that it must support VBIOS GOP. Which stands for Video BIOS Graphics Output Protocol which it does. However, when I enable fast boot and click save in the bios to reboot, it just takes me back to the bios. And, it says in the boot priorities menu that there is no drives, only the uefi as the first option. But the motherboard can detect the drives because if you go into the storage configuration, it shows up all the drives (I have 3, OS, 1TB hard drive and another ssd). What am I doing wrong. Thanks in advance

Hey Guys! I know you're great on the forums so I'll ask you guys for help with this. I need a server under $100 (AUD or USD). Thanks Guys!

My buddy needs a laptop. He's a college student and needs it for CAD word and potential 3d rendering. What's the best thing he could get for 800?

Hi guys, I have been asked to help a lecturer at uni with developing an Android app for their phd research. It's paid work and would be really good for the CV but I've never done android before. Any advice on where I can learn to use Android Studio in 2 weeks? My experience is mostly in C++ in Visual Studio doing game dev with openGL, SFML and Box2D. Thanks, appreciate any input.

Hey Guys, I've always been a lurker, tho I need your bundled help right now. A friend is coming by for a visit and I told him that I'll make a list of dope laptops for 800€ max. The problem is, I haven't done the list due to some time issues last week. So, praying to the age old sandal-sock goddess, please help me LTT Community <3

Hello, I need a fast computer for gaming. What should I change the CPU or VGA? or should I keep it the same? What should I change anything else?

Hey so I have been buying parts for my new PC for about a year now and I want to check once more to make sure this isn't being bottle necked by some random thing or something of that sorts. I have all the parts besides the monitor im not decided on and the keyboard, ram, and cpu cooler. Here is the PCP list; https://pcpartpicker.com/list/D8FxJV

Today my brother tried to plus his power brick next to my power brick on the power strip. It wouldn't fit because the USB cable was in the way, but he didn't give up. He forcibly tried to plug his in. I caught him and told him to stop. I then checked how the connection on my plug was.( I like my technology in perfect condition ) When I did and moved the USB cable a little bit I heard this noise. It sounded like a static shock, a cracker breaking, or tiny shards of plastic cracking. It was very quiet though and the connection wasn't as snug anymore. It used to be so tight that plugging the cable in took plenty of effort and it wouldn't move at all when it was in. Now it can move and with that noise. I checked on my other USB ports for example my laptop and the small Apple charging brick and they all did move and more freely than this but none of them made that crunchy noise. I also plugged a different cable in and it still had that noise. Is this something I should be concerned about?

I just built a new computer and i am wondering if this Ethernet cable (http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812189032&cm_re=ethernet_cable-_-12-189-032-_-Product) will be able to sustain the full potential of my router (Typically 150-200 mbps

I need a good price per performance camera that i can use at work to watch things

What M.2 SSD for under £150? Fastest? Most storage? Price per gb?

Finally finished building my PC with the last touch. Just waiting for my other 16GB ram stick to arrive next week.

Hello, so I've got an iPhone 8 Plus and I'm looking to get a wireless charging stand for my desk. I'm rather short on power outlets, but I do have a USB-C Dock for my PC which has a front facing Fast Charge USB port which supports Battery Charging Specification Revision 1.2 (BC 1.2). Here is the dock that I have: https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-USB-C-Docking-Station-Delivery/dp/B01FSTNT82 The wireless charging dock that I'm looking at is an Anker 10W wireless charger: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Qi-Certified-Compatible-Fast-Charging-PowerWave/dp/B07DBXZZN3/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Wireless+charging+stand&amp;qid=1560038207&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3 I don't really care about the quick charge speed (this dock does not even officially support my phone with quick charging). I just want the wireless capability and am fine with the 5W charging. However the dock wants at minimum 5V-2A. My question is, does the BC 1.2 USB port on my dock satisfy this power requirement?

Ok i need a quick answer to my question, is this setup any good because i have minimal experience when it comes to audio and thought this would be the best place to ask. Audio Technica at 2020 Behringer UMC22 Cheap pop filter https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0006H92QK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A3H2LX8PGL8613&psc=1 https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00FFIGZF6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&psc=1 https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01LXLV20K/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A37LZS5S865X0&psc=1 This totals to £133.99 ( $170.36 ) Is there anything better for the price, note i already have an xlr cable and want to upgrade from my newer nw-700 which uses the dreaded xlr to 3.5mm cable and sounds like its recording inside a washing machine. Is the a decent upgrade ???

I recently purchased a laptop with a Thunderbolt 3 port, and have heard it's possible to charge through this port. I have an extra fast charge wall wart from my old Galaxy S8, and was wondering if it'd be safe to plug a USB-c cable into it, and charge the laptop through this. I understand it definitely won't charge as quickly as with the included charger, but will it harm my computer in any way?