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I absolutely love compact pc builds, but they are never compact enough for me and I've been trying to figure out ways to make an even smaller build. Recently though when I saw the LTT video featuring the Comino RM. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fbf4800fkfQ&t=736s) I saw how the graphics cards were sandwiched together and it go me thinking about if that were to be done with a CPU and GPU instead. to make the build even more compact it would be a case with an acrylic distro plate side panel and the front face would be a 240mm radiator in the front with the Front panel IO actually being on the top and a mesh back with a single smaller fan to help vent the passive heat build up from the SSD, ram, etc. obviously this would have to be a fully custom build but i think it has potential. It may not be the prettiest or easiest to build in case but obviously the whole design could be adjusted to have absolutely uncompromised performance in the smallest possible foot print. Thoughts please?

i have a custom hardline cooled rig and woudl wanna know if i should remove the water from the pc or just pad it out good fro moving! and if i remove the water i need another psu maybei casue the mess in my system is too much for em to unhook everything to just to power the pump! is a cheapass psu for 25 bucks good for it? and another the problem with my system the valve is at the bottom behind the radiator and if i let the water out the water att the gpu and cpu wont go out! whatever angle i put the pc it wont come out! any ideas?(OUTLINED IN RED WHERE THE WATER IS STALLING)

Finishing up a mod for my Razer Huntsman Mini. I have been sick and tired of wires on my desk for a very long time, and technology to replace all cables does exist now, so I figured this was the time to make my dreams real. The basic idea is to attach a wireless charge mat to the bottom of my keyboard, and place Qi charging pads underneath my desk mat. I have already cut a piece of foam to hide my Logitech Powerplay mat, so I had a good idea that this would work. In practice, this idea loses its legs fairly quickly, because you not only have to attach a wireless charging receiver, but also a battery and some way for the keyboard to transmit key presses in a mostly latency free way. Oh, and I really didn't want to wind up spending more money on this mod than the keyboard itself was worth, and ideally I didn't want to spend more than about $50. Finding a suitable Qi charging receiver was actually really easy, apparently these exist as phone accessories for people with phone that don't have wireless charging. You can find ones like this one I used on Amazon for about $13. My solution was this- using a Raspberry Pi Zero W, I installed VirtualHere server, a USB over LAN software that's actually free so long as you're only using one device, and attached the Pi W to a large dual-cell battery bank. I wound up using this one which I already had lying around, but a newer one with USB C charging could be beneficial. The most important thing here is that the battery bank continuously provides power. Some battery banks switch over from the cell to the USB charging port, resulting in the Raspberry Pi turning off and rebooting every time you remove it from the wireless charging mat. Next I cut a hole in the bottom of a wooden prototype case that I could pass the wireless receiver's USB plug through. Finally, I cut two holes into my desk mat in the spots I most commonly use my keyboard. One hole was cut in the center for typing, and the other in the top left for gaming. Quick note here, the angles that the Huntsman Mini normally allow you to adjust the keyboard from 6 degrees to 9 degrees (nice), but I found that I needed the keyboard raised at a 15 degree angle to fit every part underneath the faceplate. I don't really notice the difference, but some people might, so I wanted to let you know. The final step was officially putting the thing together. I unscrewed the face plate of the Huntsman Mini, which was remarkably easy, and then I had a fabricator model and 3D print a new case for the keyboard. The final result looks absolutely fabulous, with 4 screw mounting points in the corners and lot of open space for placing each component. The purple model is one of the prototypes, but the internal design is exactly the same as the final product. Once I had every component in place, I marked out empty spaces that I could fill with cheap metal tire weights like these to add some more weight to the keyboard. Make sure to cover all of the exposed metal with tape so that the circuitry doesn't short. The last thing anyone wants next to their fingers is a lithium ion battery that's shorting out! (Fun fact, depending on how you place the weights, you can create your own cable channels for the USB wires that need to be run. I don't know how to solder, or the internals would be much more space efficient.) With all of the internal parts placed, the last thing to do is close everything up! This post mostly focuses on the physical mod, but setting up the Raspberry Pi with VirtualHere is really simple. They have a guide posted here for how to install the server program on a Linux machine, and guides for how to automatically start a program on boot exist all over the internet. One last thing to take care of is to install the VirtualHere client on your windows machine, and follow this guide on how to set a program to start on boot in Windows 10 so that VirtualHere is detecting keyboard inputs before you have to log in. (A keyboard isn't worth much if you can't log into Windows with it lol) Once your software is configured, you're basically good to go! The best thing about this is that using USB over LAN is pretty seamless as long as you don't plan on taking your keyboard out of your house. Plus, now your keyboard has a computer inside of it, so the options for taking work on the go are pretty cool as well! And to address concerns over latency, 2.4ghz signals are already what most wireless peripherals use to transmit, and in games I have noticed no discernable delay between using a wired keyboard instead of this wireless solution. Otherwise, that's it guys! I added a small LED that illuminates to show when the keyboard is charging, and some small marks on my mouse mat to act as guides for setting the keyboard down, and the mod was complete. This mod could theoretically work for any keyboard in existence and only costs about $40 so long as you already have a couple of USB cables laying around. Obviously there are some improvements to be made, such as using fast charging Qi pads, adapters, and a battery bank that accepts USB C charging, as well as a way to check the battery percentage of the keyboard, but each of those add-ons adds cost, and the idea here was to create this mod for as little extra money as possible. I think I was pretty successful, but let me know what you think!

Hello everyone I am building a fully custom server from the ground up with it being fully water cooled and over the top they system is going to be running my full home with. 2 Epyc 7702 4 Nvidia Founders 3090 16 kingston 128gb 2666 mhz a OSS add on card and ever 1 petabyte of storage My I also add i am using OpenVM for the VM along with am building a total of two of these systems.

Hey guys, I need help trouble shooting my old PC so a friend can use it. When powered on, the fans and lights will turn on but nothing is displayed on the monitor. I used to be able to solve this by unplugging everything from the computer and plugging it back in but that doesn't work anymore. Anyone know what could be the issue? He has $200 to upgrade/fix it and I don't want to tell him to get the wrong new part. Would it be a good idea to get one of those PCI diagnostic analyzer cards? Here's what it has inside: AMD FX-8350 XFX Radeon R9 270X Asus Crosshair V Formula-Z G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 2x 8 GB DDR3- 1600 CL10 Some Samsung SSD for boot Seagate HDD for storage Windows 10 probably Any help would be greatly appreciated..

Hello guys and gals, Motivation: The plan is to upgrade my system with a Ryzen 5800x and an RTX 3080 TUF (when they are available) and beef up my wife's PC with my Ryzen 2700 and RTX 2080super. In this post I want to log (hopefully everything) that's going on concerning planning, aquiring the parts and rebuilding the two systems. Depending on parts availability and my personal time table this whole project might take some months but we will get there at the latest by the end of this year (I hope...). Currently our systems look like this: My system: My wife's system: The next post will contain some of my plans in the current state with more pictures. Cheers!

Budget (including currency): USD 20,000 (Including the Custom Chassis) Country: Dubai, United Arab Emirates Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: GAMES: Battlefield 5, Total War Warhammer, Civ 6, Anno 1800, CSGO, World of Warship, AOE series, etc. | WORK: Blender, Unity, Unreal Engine, CAD & Sketchup Other details: This is NOT technically an Upgrade. its a fresh Build. Its my first personal build. AND it is an Overkill build. 6 year's worth of budget for future proofing. I am looking to do a Threadripper 3970X build with a RTX 3090 [When I can get my hands on it]. Excluding RGB, Fans & Radiators, rest of my build is as below: Motherboard: Asus ROG ZENITH II EXTREME ALPHA EATX sTRX4 Motherboard RAM: [08x32/16] 256/128 GB Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro (3200) Storage: 03 x Samsung 970 EVO Plus 2 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive 03 x Samsung 860 Evo 4 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive PSU: Corsair 1600 W 80+ Titanium Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply Main Monitor: 02 x Samsung Odyssey G9 49.0" 5120x1440 240 Hz Monitor Side Monitor: 02 x [Undecided] System Display: [Undecided - Touchscreen tablet (maybe) - need some suggestion] Keyboard: Asus' ROG Strix Scope Mouse Wired: Razer Deathadder USB Hubs: 04 x Sabrent 4-Port USB 3.0 Hub USB Sound Card: Creative Sound Blaster X3 External Sound Card Speakers: KEF LS50 Meta - Really need a comment on this Monitor Arm: Not sure what to get! Open to any suggestions to changes in item list. My first problem is the Chassis. I want to go for a custom desk chassis build, but I don't like what is on the market and was thinking of building one my own. So I've run into some design problems and am looking for help. I want to make a heavy work desk with an imbedded switch glass display. Within the opening I want to show case only the motherboard, graphics card, reservoir and cooling. I plan to have a switch glass top to control the visual of seeing my build or not depending if I am working or gaming. I don't want the entire desk be glass, and don't want a completely bulky desk either. I want to do a base matte black interior, black cooler pipes and Aura/iCue Sync with RGB. I want to leave the fans, PSU and cable shroud hidden from view under the desk. I am looking for anyone that might be willing to make me a chassis - completely negotiable. I also would like some suggestion for a streaming setup. I am an absolute novice, and I only plan to do for some gaming streams.

So here we are again... Six or so months ago, I finished my first small form factor build; a gaming rig inside an Dreamcast shell. It was an...interesting learning curve, with non-standard components I wasn't used to using, and a LOT of dremel work. But obviously now I have to go bigger and better, and having done SFF, I've got to try something else I've not done....enter water cooling THE PLAN Of course, the case. We've got the classic...the one...the only...the FAT PS2. Roughly 3.8L in size. The last system was Intel based, so for that reason alone I'm going to make this an AMD build. The graphics card will hopefully be more powerful, I'm looking at a 1080, or a 2060S. Ram, 16Gb. That's an easy one. Storange size unknown, but it'll be M.2. Watercooling, obviously...I'd like the CPU and GPU both to be in the loop if at all feasible. As with the Dreamcast, from the front I want it to be as sleeper as possible. only the keen eye should be able to tell what's inside...

Hello everyone, I'm going to be making a wall mounted pc and it's going to be a bit far from my desk, so I was thinking that if there was some sort of device that connects to home wifi and to the power pins on the mobo to act like a power button and can be activated from a mobile phone that would be sick. I looked around but couldn't quite find anything, I was thinking even an Arduino could work with coding but they're quite expensive and I don't know how to code anyways, if anyone has any ideas that would be sick if you could drop them down below, thanks!

Hey everyone, I havent been on the forum in 7 years lmao. So, Considering a have a ton of free time at home these days [re:covid] I have been highly considering getting a custom pc once again for the first time in quite a few years. My life style up to this point really hasn't been conducive to being able to use one for my interests & hobies. Anyways, I have an HP 840 g1 Laptop I got from a buddy on the cheap that was working for a school board e-distrobution centre at the time. To the point, Due to my lifestyle I prefer minimalist, Cost effective, Portable utilitarian solutions. For this reason the Velka 3, Metalfish s3 etc. Cases have a ton of appeal to me; Being so lightweight and portable and (without pointless extra features). I also want something with the "umph" of a desktop that could handle creative softwares like Prmier Pro and Photoshop as well as light to midrange gaming at 1440p on a 27" display (I really like the dpi at this range) and I would happily give up 100+ fps for 60+ fps in exchange for pixel count anyways. I also run a few backround apps pretty regularly all of that being said. What I have slapped together is a quick build of what components I have found cost effective without any major bottlenecks in regards for my desires for the build stated above^: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/CHfWMc Now here is my problem, As you will see I am very clearly missing a case and a modded ATX compatible Flex chassis PSU with a low noise fan. Why you ask? Because accessibility to these foregin manufactured and limited run products is garbage here in Calgary, AB, Canada. But not only that; With the Canadian dollar being weak vs the US dollar in recent end of all days times these products and their shipping costs are also grossly inflated . Not to mention none of them have a solid and stylish handle (making them a truly portable solution) or even a decent paint job for that matter. So I thought to myself I used to play around with Sketchup quite a few years ago when Custom Acrylic panels & RGB ribbon LED's & Mineral oil PC's were cool LMAO. And I remember coming up with a few designs that were not only practical but downright impressive for a 15 year old! (I even used refrence form factor bluprints to design server mobo mounting plates for these designs.) Anyways Sketchup is now a web-based free to use application (Ew) and I'm at a loss, I would really like to get back into CAD for once... But bigger than that; I would like to design & manufacture a better product and use local resources and businesses to make it a reality and maybe even start my own small buisness. And thats where i'm REALLY at a loss! I have no idea what i'm doing and ANY resources I could GET FROM YOU GUYS would be absolutely huge! I really need to know what free(ish) cad software is out there that I could pickup easily aswell as; What tips do you have for a small fry like myself that just wants to bring his product to life and what steps should I take to furfill this? (Outside of marketing TY that sh*t is easy I don't understand how it's a career) Branding & exposure is easy in todays digital world but what is difficult is navigating partnerships and the resources necessary to do something like this, because I believe I have a product in mind that I believe has a real demographic; demand and is superior and could be manufactured and distributed more cheaply than the current competition. Thanks for any tips & learning resources you guys can share!

Budget (including currency): $750 Australian Dollars (includes shipping, but not peripherals) Country: Australia Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Rainbow Six Siege, Valorant, COD Warzone, AAA Titles (i.e. Watchdogs Legion), light work. Other details: Motherboard needs to be compatible with WiFi, looking for at least 70-80 FPS, probably looking for 250-500 GB, 8 GB of RAM. If the parts look good, then I wouldn't mind a case with a window. RGB if it costs only a little extra. Looking for a cheap case fan and a cheep CPU cooler. I'm sorry if this sounds like a lot, but I've been searching for days to find a good configuration. Parts in Australia are quite expensive. I'm okay if you can point me to any websites with cheap Pre-builts that I can customize. Thank you!

Hi Everyone. I couldn't find my specific answer when searching the forums, so thought I could check in here. Looking to loop my graphics card only, if thats a thing, with either a pre-built system either from Alpha Cool or EKWB. So far, I've narrowed it down to these two products, for my XFX THICC III 5700XT GPU. https://www.au.aquatuning.com/water-cooling/kits-systems-and-aios/all-in-one-gpu/27138/alphacool-eiswolf-2-aio-240mm-radeon-rx-5700/5700xt-reference?c=23048 https://www.au.aquatuning.com/water-cooling/gpu-water-blocks/gpu-full-cover/eisblock-gpx/25199/alphacool-eisblock-aurora-plexi-gpx-a-radeon-rx-5700/5700xt-reference Does anyone know the difference between these two. Of course, there's also the recommended list of parts needed under the 'add to cart' section. I know the basic fundamentals that a Water cooled unit needs the radiator, pump, tubing, fittings and any additional RGB addressable led cables, but are there any products which sell complete systems specifically for GPUs only, that come pre-made, or am I just wishfully thinking? If not, I'm happy to go ahead and purchase this and work on it myself.

Hi guys, I am once again here in our beloved forum to ask for help. My HP Pavilion g7-2302ev is crashing with either artifacts on the screen or just a black screen. The laptop may work for 5 min and crash or like 2 hours without a sign of any problem. I was told that the video card was the problem and it needed a new one to be replaced. A friend told me that, if I dont need the gpu, I may be able to find a custom bios, that turns off nearly completely the ATI Gpu and the laptop can still work on intel HD graphics, using the other GPU only as an assistant to make things appear on the screen. Can somebody give me a link or something for a custom bios that achieves that. I am open to experiment. Main Specs: Intel Core i7-3632QM AMD Radeon HD 7670M (1 GB DDR3 dedicated) I have 10 GB DDR3 installed ( I did that) 128GB SSD with caddy 1TB Hard drive Thanks in advance!

Hello there. I am working on completing a PC built in the shell of a 90's payphone. More info - So while I wait for the parts to arrive I'll be working on the Power switch and getting the Handset to work with the PC. I have done some research and know I need a momentary switch and have seen a whole lot of ones like these - https://www.newegg.com/p/0X6-04KT-0UVZ4?Description=momentary switch&cm_re=momentary_switch-_-0X6-04KT-0UVZ4-_-Product Thing is, I have my "switch" already, I just need to find out the best way to make it work for the power. Here is the mechanism on the back side of the Coin Return lever - https://imgur.com/a/Xem1A8K So now I need to find out how to turn that mechanism into the momentary switch. My first thought was to just buy one of the above PC 'buttons' from Newegg and just mount it in a way that the L shaped metal piece will press the button when I pull the lever. Other than that, I don't know how I would do it. Anyone have a better idea? Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.

Hello forums. Working on turning a 90's payphone into a cool PC. Made a post a little while ago asking a question. Here is an imgur album of cutting the Payphone to accept the I/O and mobo. - https://imgur.com/a/BHIFn5a Now I have another question. I have all the parts purchased besides the PSU. I'm having a size issue. I can't decide between using a modular Corsair SFX PSU that I will have to do a lot more grinding/cutting and possibly reinforcing but it will fit. Or going with a Pico or something with an external power brick and not having to mess with any more cutting. Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you.

Budget (including currency): 850 USD Country: United States Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Modern Games and Video Editing Other details: please just find the best parts for this price and not like cheapest but highest rating and overall quality. i’ve upgraded a few pcs but this will be my first build. please give me a list of parts you know will work together. thank you for the help :)

I know I can make a router from a older PC, I know I can make a NAS from one as well, is it possible to use middle tier componants (such as 4770k and lots more ram) to make a custom machine that pulls double duty? A mutl drive NAS AND LAN routing capabilities?

It's been years since I built a PC. How long? My last one had an FX-8350. I've been starting to do more video editing now so I needed something other than my laptop. It's nice to see RGB being a lot more integrated nowadays. But I also see why Linus complains about all the cables. Wow, there's a lot. Way more than when I built my last PC. I wasn't just going to build something simple. I always loved making something unique. Even if it's just a paint job on the case, it's enough for me to say that this is a one and only. I'd really only ever build one ITX PC once for an HTPC years ago. So I decided to go this route this time around for my main PC. Even though I chose what seems to be the biggest ITX case on the market After hours of research, I decided on these parts. CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 3900X Mobo: ASUS Crosshair Impact VIII Impact RAM: G-Skill Trident Z RGB 32GB Storage: Sabrent Rocket Q NVMe 1TB Graphics: XFX 5600XT Cooler: Noctua NH-U12S Case:NZXT H210i Power Supply: Silverstone ET700 The graphics isn't the highest end but the computer is mostly for video editing. Plus with Nvidia and AMD both coming out with GPUs soon, I didn't want to invent to much in it just yet. For the case color I chose one of my favorite car colors. Honda's Phoenix Yellow. I had the paint mixed at a local paint shop and then I applied it in my friends garage. Don't think it came out to bad. A little rough spots around the edges, but was able to wet sand them down to smooth them down a bit. Do need to thread my cables, don't really like how the combs separate the cables. But overall very happy with this build. Was also looking at getting the Chromax Noctua cooler but they do seem to be out of stock. At a reasonable price anyways. Overall, had a lot of fun building this one. Brought back memories to all the computers I'd build and cases I'd mod. Was always an AMD fan and really happy to see them doing great these days. Let me know what y'all think. Maybe I can get back into more case modding

Hello once again dear community for all of you who did not notice how i started out with my build, let me leave the link to my OG buildlog: SNOWFLAKE as many of you might know: once you start building, its hard to stop... while building this time i hit a little roadblock as i had random restarts caused by a faulty stick of ram that memtest veryfied to be good. but finally, after a long time, i present to you my upgraded rig: swapped my H110 GTX for a 115i Platinum my 2070 for a 2080super waterforce built a custom shroud for my gpu with added display tor temp readout NVM the cpu & gpu temps ^^ its 33°C-ish here atm idle temps are 10-12 °C above ambient with silent fan setup if you have any questions, feel free to ask

Looking to do a gaming PC build. I have a laptop to run games on at the moment, so I would like to take my time and make it extremely personalized and unique. Can anyone recommend me good-quality cases that have space enough for customizing internally, such as that one build Linus did back in the day with the crystals inside? The only other thing I require is one transparent side. Price is not an issue. Thanks!

Hey there! First off, I hope this is in the correct topic, apologies if it's not. Arround the time when AMD release the 4000 serie CPU, and Nvidia the RTX 3080 Ti. I want to build a new pc. I want to use the custom cables from cablemod using the cable configurator. The type is mod mesh. My case: Corsair Obsidian 500D RGB SE My PSU: Corsair HX1000i Storage: 2x m.2, and 1x sata ssd GPU: rtx 3080ti I think that's all you need parts wize to answer my question. My question how do I know how long the cables should be when I don't have hands on with the parts? Is there a standard length for this? If you can give me some advice that would be great. (sinds I cannot measure them.) or else I Ned to buy my parts, measure wait a month till the cables arrive, I think I cannot handle that xD.

Hi! I am planning on making a custom arcade machine with a ryzen 5 2400g to save money on graphics and cooling. While I know an athlon 3000g could run it, I also plan on emulating wii on it and just using it for general computing. Would it be enough? (I will also be playing mc and rocket league on it with linux cuz its free. I know they're not graphically intense games but thought it would be helpful.)

Budget (including currency): $5k USD (or 2 equivalent gaming laptops) Country: United States Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Medium Duty Gaming. No need for 4k. 60fps 1080 is fine. Light Video Editing. Other details Here's the fun part: My wife and I live on a small sailboat. I have a dream of building a single hard mounted PC that both she and I can game on as separate users similar to the "6 Editor 1 CPU" build Obvously $100000k is out of the budget range, but this is the idea. Input devices/Monitors may be anywhere from 2-20ft cable runs from the system. Power is a concern, I can run 110v power but am limited to 2000w when on my batteries, so extreme power efficiency/low power standby would be needed. Super Bonus, is there any way this can be run on a 12v system?

Hello everyone, I am not sure if this the correct place to post this but i need some help. I am trying to fix my old TV, i don't remember the model but it has this panel (LC370EUH-SCA1-LG - https://datasheetspdf.com/datasheet/LC370EUH-SCA1.html). Actually the TV had issues like visual noise and slow motion, so after doing some research I came to the conclusion that the main board had issues processing the images. That's why I bought a Universal TV board and tried fixing it. Those are the parts that I got: 1) https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32826581382.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.4fe24c4dHp8CwD 2) https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32828282415.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.4fe24c4dHp8CwD The parts arrived and it took me twice as much research as i had done before, to figure out how I could connect the universal board to my TV's power supply. And I made it i had backlight. The problem is that i had no picture at all, i tried to install different firmwares, and tried to use some other cables I had, but nothing changed. I suppose the connect board that I also bought isn't compatible with my panel. That's why I wanted to ask someone before I ditched the project. I would appreciate any help, suggestions or even any compatible parts that you know they would work! Thanks for your time and help, in advance!

This is the link to the current version of my build: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/j696Wb Edit: This is the modified build: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/wddyn7 I have multiple questions that I would like some advise on, as I've only built one PC in the past, and I did not choose the parts myself. So, firstly, with my choices for CPU and GPU, is this the best "bang for my buck" at a total price point of around $1,000? Also, I am wondering if at this price point it is worth it to invest in any non-stock CPU cooler, or case fans? I have always just went with the stock variants in the past. Is it worth it to buy 3600MHz ram? As I was searching I was told this was the best option with my current build. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated, thank you!