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Kisai

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  1. Kisai

    Intel 9900KS = 5.0 GHz on ALL cores

    I have a i7-4770. and a Geforce 1080. Right know the UPS says *drumroll* 145 watts, this is basically just idle. now if I jump over to cpu-z stress, it jumps to 193w tops, so let's say the difference between full load and idle load is about 50 watts. If I switch over to GPU-z and run the render test, it goes to 270 watts. Both 301 watts. GPU-Z says it tops out at 115 watts. Yet... it tops out at 390 watts in FFXV. Energy creep is real. Basically what I'm saying is that these are not data center CPU's, they should not consume that much more than a laptop's CPU full tilt. Like I expect 42-45 watts from a Haswell dual-core, because logically it has half the cores, yet somehow when we get 8 cores in a i9-9xxx CPU, at half the nm process, you'd expect the energy consumption to be the same at full tilt. Yet not the case Source: https://www.anandtech.com/show/13400/intel-9th-gen-core-i9-9900k-i7-9700k-i5-9600k-review/21 That full load i7-6700K and 7700K increased 12 watts. Now take the note I mentioned above about my CPU idle/full load difference being about 45 watts difference. Now look at the i7-9700K and i7-8700K, remember these are ALL the same 14nm process node (5xxx,6xxx,7xxx,8xxx,9xxx). So: 6700K, stated 95w, reality 83w (4C) (-12w) 7700K, stated 91w, reality 95w (4C) (+4w) 8700K, stated 95w, reality, 146w (6C) (+51w) 9700K, stated 95w, reality 125w (6C) (+30w) for completeness i9-9900K, stated 95w, reality 169w (8C) (+74w) i7-8086K, stated 95w, reality 101w (6C) (+6w) The closest any of these are to their target TDP is the 8086K and 7700K. Now you'll also notice that that +51 and +30 bump added two cores, which you'd think would be expected and the CPU's marked as such, but no, we'd have to have the clock speed dialed down to hit that TDP, thus making them not as attractive. We also see this with the 9900K, so it goes from 4 cores in the 6700K/7700K to 8, so it's power consumption should double, and yet it looks like is double... of the previous 22nm process. Don't get me wrong, this would not be a good enough reason to avoid buying such a thing, but it would be something that needs to be taken into account if you need to keep a power budget.
  2. Kisai

    Intel 9900KS = 5.0 GHz on ALL cores

    See this is where all the "Extra" performance has been coming from. We haven't really gained gross performance, rather we've gained net performance by allowing the energy creep rather than lowering it with a die shrink. It's kinda criminal to release a desktop CPU or GPU that consumes more than 100 watts full power IMO. A laptop tops out at 220 watts. Given the right cooler, you get a faster CPU, but it still costs you more to run. A 600 watt GPU and a 250 watt CPU is already past where any reasonable UPS can handle it (1200 watts tops, and those are $1200 data center UPS systems, 865 watts is about $400, but not sine-wave.) I already killed the inverter on my UPS when it kicked in while running a game with a Geforce 1080.
  3. Kisai

    Anyone else not crazy about RGB?

    The Geforce 1080 I have has RGB features, but the "controller" software sucks up CPU and memory for no reason. The Razer mouse, same, the software takes up a needless amount of cpu time, handles, and memory even when it's not doing something. I can't imagine there being any point to buying a complete set of RGB things and have to load a dozen different rgb controller software that all do the same. This is the Razer software The ASUS software sucks up cpu time for no reason I can discern.
  4. Kisai

    Floatplane Quality Options Suggestion

    IMO, the problem is not the resolution or bitrate when it comes to streaming, its the device capability on the other end. You can stream H265 at the same resolution and half the bitrate, but the number of devices that can play it will be limited to those using iPhone6, Geforce GTX 10x0's or better. VP9, can be played back on slightly more hardware, including AMD R400/R500 and Ryzen models with a GPU core, Intel ix-6xxx or later, nVidia Geforce GTX 9xx, Android and Nintendo Switch devices. If you just stream h.264, then you top out at 1080p for playback capability at reasonable bit rates available to home internet users. The H264 5.2 profile is 4Kp60, 4.2 is 1080p60, and 3.2 is 720p60. But the rates that Youtube puts out are about half of what is reasonable. However most hardware decoder blocks are not capable greater than 1080i60 (4.1) because they were designed without 1080p60 and 4K in mind. So an nVidia GT 500/600 GPU will likely choke at that point. Nevertheless, unless they put out a smartphone and smarttv app, it's going to be an issue getting people to actually see the content, and people on smartphones/smarttv's/tablets don't want to be prompted to login since typing "complex passwords" on these devices is annoying. Floatplane could just read the user agent of the incoming user for devices that are not a Windows/Mac/Linux PC and select the highest bitrate by default that that device is capable of, and if the ip address range falls into a known "mobile phone service" give the user the option to lower the bitrate/resolution so they don't destroy their data plans. For all other users, just allow a "maximum bitrate cap" setting, with the default set to auto. If the player stutters, knock the bit rate down the the next lower setting and then peg it to that for the entire video when on auto. If not on auto, determine what the highest successful bitrate is and allow the user to select "higher frame rate" or "lower frame rate, higher resolution". And since 4K introduces rec.2020, that also adds another variable. Like they could have a diagnostic video that streams white noise at each bitrate/resolution, and have the user go "this looks OK to me" / "This looks bad/skips/stutters", to determine their device capability/bandwidth/resolution. Then just use that by default.
  5. Kisai

    Used Gaming PC

    This isn't really correct, Windows will only cover drivers for hardware that existed for years before that build of the operating system. It will only install WHQL certified drivers, which means the control panels are often missing, and any controls needed for special keyboards, buttons, or fan/light controls will be absent. In a nutshell. Assemble the PC in the barest "minimum to run" configuration. That means no network cards, extra hard drives, GPU's, and so forth. It should be just the CPU, RAM, and the iGPU (if no GPU) first, to make sure that the CPU and RAM have the right timing, the BIOS is set to UEFI, SATA control set to RAID (Intel boards) and that are all correctly matched. If the BIOS is not current, take this opportunity to update the BIOS to the most current version. (Most MB's today can do this automatically if it can get an IP address, otherwise it can be done with a fat32-formatted flash drive.) The latest BIOS should be retrieved from the manufacturer's website. Disconnect the machine from the internet before installing the OS. Install drivers manually before allowing Windows to update. Install network drivers last before connecting to Windows Update. Once you get one successful POST, Put in the the hard drive and the GPU that you intend to install the operating system with. This is where things get sticky. The OS will only ever install to the hard drive correctly, once. This is why it's important to pick the correct drive (eg a NVMe drive) to boot from and install the OS to. Then make sure that the "F6 drivers" for the hard drive controller configuration are installed, even if you believe Windows might operate without it, because once Windows is installed, you can't switch RAID to AHCI mode (RAID is the correct mode for ALL SSD's, even if no Optane device is installed), and you can't switch from UEFI to Legacy mode. The F6 driver will be obtainable from the Intel website, or some SSD's have their own driver. As soon as the OS is installed, do not hit Windows Update until you have installed the "chipset" drivers. The reason for this is that some hardware will not be found without the chipset driver installed, and this is almost always USB drivers, cooling/throttling drivers, and other "doesn't seem important at the time" things, but installing the drivers in advance will ensure that other driver installations succeed. Once you have installed the chipset driver, install the SATA/Rapid Storage Driver again, this time it should install any control panel facilities that will let you configure it/warn you of impending doom. This is different from the F6 driver. The F6 driver is needed since it will need it for the EFI rescue partition. If it doesn't have it, then the rescue partition usually will not see the rest of the drive and the system will not be recoverable if it fails. You should then install the GPU driver(s), this includes the iGPU even if you're not using it. If you fail to install the iGPU drivers, the iGPU may prevent the CPU from using the sleep states. The GPU drivers should be the DCH drivers (Intel is only shipping DCH drivers for Windows 10 now.) Next, install the sound chip drivers. Windows will usually install a "basic" driver that it can fall back to, but this basic driver doesn't enable the automatic headphone switching, or the control panel for other features. That said, some motherboards sound chips are worse than others, and the "HD Audio" header to the front of the chassis may generate far more noise than simply plugging analog headphones into the back of the system. In this case, you may be better off using USB headphones, or using the audio from the monitor and plugging analog headphones into the monitor, thus not using the motherboard's audio. If your sound card is an add-in card, you will need to get the drivers directly from the manufacturer, otherwise motherboard-provided chips should use the driver from the motherboard manufacturer. Next should be "correct" network drivers, for the wired ethernet, and WiFi. For desktop systems, most have the Intel parts, but some have broadcom. You should get the drivers from the motherboard manufacture's website unless it's an add-in card. Once you've done the chipset, SATA/RAID, GPU, Audio, Network. Everything else depends on what other things are in the system, and the driver versions start to matter more. For example a HDMI capture card may only work with a specific version of a driver that has to be obtained from a different manufacturer (because it's just a re-labeled, but otherwise identical card.) Bluetooth is usually OK to use the Windows driver, but you may want to use the correct driver if it's part of the WiFi chipset, otherwise it may not support "airplane" mode and such. Once you think you've installed all the drivers you're aware of. Plug in the machine to the internet and run Windows Update. If you installed all the correct drivers, Windows Update should not try to replace any. If you missed something, Windows may, or may not find it. Let it do two cycles of Windows Update, and then go to the device manager and look for any ? or X's. You do not need to find drivers for the monitor if it connects via DisplayPort, HDMI, DVI, or VGA. You may need to if it connects via USB-C, as the default function of USB-C is "Displayport" or "PD" depending what's plugged into the other end. Now, all that said, can you just plug in the ethernet cable and have the UEFI firmware install the OS? Yeah... kinda. For name-brand PC's like Dell, and Apple, this is actually the way you're supposed to reinstall the OS, and the drivers specifically tailored to your machine will be installed. For all other non-OEM systems, this feature usually doesn't even exist. (in fact Dell's version seems to be a 11th hour addition to BIOS updates from the last three months, and didn't exist last year except on XPS laptops.) If this is an option, this is probably the correct course of action so you get the correct version of everything, at least initially. For non-OEM systems, usually gamer systems have a lot of after-thought tweaking (eg disabling nagle, which is only possible on certain network card configurations and certain cable/dsl/fiber last miles.) So there is a lot of bad advice out there that makes assumptions about how you play the game, and they usually come at a performance cost somewhere else. Tweaks for MMO games tend to cripple the maximum throughput of the network connection, thus making streaming at high bit rates difficult, and vice versa (tweaks to increase download/upload speeds, or streaming quality, cripple game latency.) While I normally don't advocate for automatic update tools, they are here for completeness: Intel https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/support/intel-driver-support-assistant.html This tool will install INF(chipset), iGPU, Network, and Bluetooth drivers if your system has them. It will NOT install iGPU drivers for laptops or for OEM name-brands. AMD does not have such a utility but their drivers are at https://www.amd.com/en/support nVidia drivers are at https://www.nvidia.com/Download/index.aspx?lang=en-us Creative Labs still makes hardware, though usually what is shipped with motherboards is a software implementation. https://support.creative.com/welcome.aspx Realtek chips, usually there are far newer drivers on Realtek's own site than the motherboard or OEM, but use with caution, as sometimes (eg realtek network chips) drivers will break OEM name-brands versions, and there will be no gain from their use. Realtek downloads: https://www.realtek.com/en/downloads Asmedia chips are usually found on USB controllers and docking stations. There is no way to download the drivers directly from ASMedia, please download the drivers from the OEM or Motherboard manufacturer. Broadcom chips are usually network or modems, and usually found more often in servers and laptops https://www.broadcom.com/support/download-search
  6. I run a Geforce GTX 1080 on a i7-4770 non-K, it's fine. I'm considering a Ryzen 3000 series CPU +ddr4 +X500 chipset MB, since Intel is behind now. I'd however consider upgrading to something with DDR4, and I'd wait at least to see what the Ryzen 3000 series will cost, as at present the spectre/meltdown/mds bugs that plague Intel might not be fixed until they move to 7nm. Intel won't get there before 2023 for CPU's, and looks like they're trying to speed that up to 2021. Intel's still on the 14nm process from Broadwell with all their CPU's except Ice Lake (10nm, 10th generation Intel CPU's.)
  7. There is a good chance that's the PSU, but it could be the MB. Reasoning, what you describe sounds like the motherboard switching to the backup bios because of a failure condition. However if the PSU is dropping the power during this process, it likely starts it over again. That said, check the CMOS battery, since you said it happens after it's left off for a prolonged time. The appropriate troubleshooting for this would be to swap the power supply with an equal wattage model and see if the problem persists, as power supply failures aren't usually that predictable, but "reboot cycles" is one of the trademark symptoms.
  8. Kisai

    Games to run on a 5400 RPM hard drive?

    The ideal configuration is (keep in mind this is elaborate) is to have something like this: C:\ SDD (OS drive either SATA or NVMe) D:\ SDD (active game(s), NVMe) E:\ HDD (Inactive games/rarely played, 7200RPM drive) F:\ HDD (All other infrequently used data like videos) Because of spin-up time when capturing games, if you capture video, you want to capture to a SSD. When playing games, especially MMO's you want those on a SSD, because the slowest player winds up with a disadvantage, and in some really awful games, the slowest player will get kicked. A game like FFXIV, can spend 40 seconds loading from a 7200RPM drive where it will take less than 5 seconds from a SATA SSD. Most "offline" games, are perfectly fine being played from mechanical hard drives, they just have a much longer loading time. Some games this loading time is more than noticeable. But don't stick everything on your SSD. Your SSD operates at peak efficiency if you don't fill it up past the 50% point due to how cells on the drive are worn out and how data works in parallel. (Take note if you've ever bought a USB stick and notice that the larger the drive, the faster the drive, because the chip has more layers.) If you only have one drive, then you want the fastest drive possible, but given how things have evolved rapidly since 2015, a 256GB SSD, be it SATA or NVMe is far superior to any mechnical drive. Just don't put valuable data on SSD's. While they may be fast, most wear tests to date have seen the drives spontaneously fail from wear, and no longer work in any meaningful way (can't read or write to them.) The assumption was that a worn out SSD would still be readable, but that tends to not be true.
  9. Replace the CPU first in that. That CPU is well beyond it's useful life. (Only Broadwell (ix-5xxx series or later) are worth holding onto right now) The GPU in that is still good for at least one more year if you aren't doing anything at 4K. Still, I'd suggest waiting for the new AMD Ryzen CPU's.
  10. Kisai

    Dell Dimensions 4400 Not Booting

    *doublechecks the machine name* Oh, Dimension. That's some early 2000-era stuff. Ok, find ANY video card, AGP, or PCI, and just make sure you get a picture. As this is a AGP 4X machine, you might have to find another vintage GPU, as they aren't all compatible with each other. AGP 4X is 1.5v, consult https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Accelerated_Graphics_Port If you insert the wrong card into the wrong MB, then you fry one or both.
  11. Oh please don't pooh-pooh NVMe, you have no idea what you're missing when it runs at 4GB/sec vs mSATA's 500MB and mechanical HDD's topping out at 100MB/sec. Current generations of NVMe drives are super fast, so you are better off with one of these than trying to connect multiple sata SSD's in a RAID array. At present, most laptops and desktops come with NVMe drives. The only difference between any of them is mechanical connections as some MB's will accept a 2280 (that's the length) and some will not. MMORPG games, or really any large game certainly benefits from the lower loading time, but you can only press it so far, since some games are netcode bound.
  12. Kisai

    Dell Dimensions 4400 Not Booting

    Try the iGPU (onboard GPU) and see if you get a picture at all. If you get a picture, make sure the BIOS is set to use the expansion card GPU as primary, as some Dell BIOS's will use the iGPU first in auto mode. Once that's done, make sure the cable (yes sounds stupid) isn't the problem, especially with displayport cables, as they may trigger the sense connection without going all the way in.
  13. Kisai

    Anyone good with DMX Lighting?

    It's been 20 years since I've done anything with stage lighting, but the thing that comes to mind is that the lighting controller might not have something programmed for it. The system I was familiar with had like 24 channels and a dipless crossfade feature, but channel 23 and 24 were connected to the house lights which could be overridden at the stage or the front-of-house. https://www.leviton.com/en/docs/D4DMX_User_Guide.pdf If I'm reading this right, the dimmer can operate independently of the lighting controller, which is what it sounds like it's doing. You have to program the dimmer with what channels to listen on for the lighting controller to take it over. Then in the lighting controller you have to assign those addresses to channel(s) https://www.blizzardpro.com/products/snokontrol#downloader , grab the manual for the lighting controller and check how to program it. Take note of this part: So with that in mind you want to make sure the D4DMX is programmed according to the table.
  14. Kisai

    What kind of bottleneck will I get?

    Assuming it's not already running at 8X due to silly motherboard designs. If you want to do 4K gaming, you have to shoot higher than the 1080ti at the minimum. Since you have a dual CPU system, you probably have enough lanes to do two 2080's if you wanted to. That said, That CPU is only PCIe 2.0. While I don't advocate for updating for pointless reasons, I think 4K gaming on that might hit a CPU single-thread power wall before it hits a GPU performance wall, even at 2.0 16x. Which if that's the case, it's a 9 year old CPU, consider the slower memory speed as well. The 1080ti, just squeaks by doing 4K with most common games. Considering the current meltdown/spectre/zombieload/etc exploits affecting intel cpu's, you may have even lost 25% of the cpu performance already since no patches are forthcoming for anything older than haswell. The 2080, may be the lead card, but most of the "benefit" of the card is in the RT cores, so you may end up paying money for a feature that gets very little use.
  15. Kisai

    Laptop for an eGPU

    Rarely. Usually 13" and 14" laptops have terrible CPU's like i7-7Y75, or other dual-core parts. That's why I'd recommend NOT looking at 13" and 14" laptops to begin with. 15" laptops have the i7-xxxxH parts, and so do 17" models. A single 4x TB3 port is not sufficient for gaming, and I mean this in a "this is not a gaming solution", the TB3 ports are designed for direct-attach NVme drives. eg Video capture and editing. If you use an eGPU without having at least two TB3 ports, the GPU in the enclosure is completely wasted. Still, you can get away with that if you're using it for compute. The cost of an eGPU enclosure is $400-$1000, if you're already willing to spend this money on what is basically a desktop without a CPU and RAM, to get a wimpy 4x PCIe connection via TB3, you are far better off just putting all the money into a desktop. Now what I do expect at some point is that there will be "USB4" (TB3) docking stations that provide a dummy x16 slot to allow any GPU to be used with the dock so that you can use a "smaller" laptop. But as I stated previously, the CPU's in the 13" and 14" laptops are super-weak. In one example with a 13" laptop (the aformentioned i7-7Y75) the cpu performance was less than a 5 year old laptop i5 dual core part. The only reason the newer laptop was better was because of the NVme SSD, otherwise they would have been better off holding onto the old laptop, even with it's DDR3L memory.
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