DEAMONFROST

If it was the fuse, it'd be all dead, not one third dead, wouldn't it? Anyway, blowing channels on that unit is pretty wide-spread issue. I worked for a Corsair retailer and handled my share of cases like this. If it's under warranty, they'll fix it but if not, you're out of luck.

I only got to open one unit up myself. That was also out of warranty. I had to contact Corsair too for repairs like any other chump. I hated it. They wanted the whole thing returned and the thing was huge and not one single customer kept the damn box.  Anyway, this looks familiar to me. Your case might be similar-ish but this particular dude says it's all dead in this thread. It's a blown power supply. A skilled electrician could fix it, I'd imagine. I'm no skilled electrician myself, sadly, but I can tell you that those leaks are form the capacitors. Capacitors are those can-shaped components with the Xs on top. When they get old in devices that run somewhat hot, they tend to do that. If nothing else is wrong, it'd be as easy as soldering on new capacitors. That's just an example. I tried to Google for a picture from a case with your problem but to no avail. Neither did I find any repair instructions. 
 
But even if everything else fails utterly, you can always get a new amplifier and use the old speakers. Can't see why you couldn't hook something like this up. It's likely that a $15 amp won't be as good as the original but still, you need that music, man!

Funny you bring up 'no knowledge'.
 
I do actually take offense to your response as I have been working with audio equipment for a very long time. You do come off as ungrateful and I feel like it was unnecessary to post it. And yes, that is your intention otherwise you wouldn't have posted it. Just remember who's time you're taking for help, and who's time is considered wasted.

As for your particular unit, sometimes giving the OC some simple fixes can help as I do not know how familiar they are with the environment. As such, I did not do extensive research on the unit.
 
The reason I asked about the bass knob, was because occasionally on other units the potentiometer had broken, and was constantly on the lowest setting. 

All I can really suggest now is too look for any expanded capacitors, broken diodes, dislodged wires.
 
I hope next time you understand what kind of people post these troubleshooting threads, only turning out to be a simple fix.
 

Well thanks it actually was but it is scrapped now and was actually never finnished because of issues and plans changing but i am about to pic a new case up tomorrow and after that i will just have to order a few more water cooling stuff that will fit better in the new build but then i will be posting a build log including the tj08-e part of it.
I just do not personaly like build logs where it takes forever for them to be completed because you just forget about them+commenters will make it so that for someone to view the whole thing they will need to scroll so far so i just have not posted anything yet but here is a sneak peak

Now the delete key just started working without me doing anything to fix it.

Thanks i will remember that for my next purchase you know it is just so difficult to find that kind of information when browsing components.
I think information like that should be a bit more easily obtainable considering how much more popular water cooling have become especially since the all in one coolers that was mountable on graphics cards.
Do you know any other brands that has that as a standard thing on their cards?
Because since i just water cool the cards as soon as possible i always just buy the cheapest one available unless it is like the phantom one which needs a special block and crap=one design and one design only.

Well thanks it actually was but it is scrapped now and was actually never finnished because of issues and plans changing but i am about to pic a new case up tomorrow and after that i will just have to order a few more water cooling stuff that will fit better in the new build but then i will be posting a build log including the tj08-e part of it.
I just do not personaly like build logs where it takes forever for them to be completed because you just forget about them+commenters will make it so that for someone to view the whole thing they will need to scroll so far so i just have not posted anything yet but here is a sneak peak

So at first i was not even interested of mechanical keyboards because i had tried typing on blue and red switches the red did not feel satisfying and the blues were too clicky.
The keyboards had less functions for a higher price and i really love to change the color scheme of my stuff a little now and then.
I really loved the feeling of typing on my steelseries apex + it looks sexy as hell.
But as i am extremely unlucky with electronics in general, of course i had issues with the apex as well =(
The software would not detect my device so i could not change color, use macros and it sometimes did not even want to work at all.
I noticed i did not need the macros and the keyboard took up a lot of space that i wanted to use for other stuff.
I came across the cm storm quick fire tk (brown switch) in a bargain bin with open box stuff for cheap.
For no better reason than i was bored i started typing on it and man was it satisfying to type on.
As i was not even considering going mechanical at the time i did not buy it right away. (big mistake).
I looked around a ton on the internet at different cool keyboard customizations came across some plastic covers that one can put on top on the led in your mechanical keyboard and a few nice looking keycaps and decided to buy the cm storm QF tk brown.
I am now sitting here typing extra long posts just as a excuse to type more because i love it so =P.
I am planning to paint my keyboard top white like my g13 and g600 and get some of those clear colored plastic bits i was talking about and stick in some rubber o rings and make a carbon fibre wrist rest wish me luck  !;P
 
Also love to being a member of the club =P
 

Officially joining the Mech KB Club!
 
Mine's a portal-themed Vortex Race 2 75% keyboard with Cherry MX Browns and white backlighting:
 
Number Keys, Tab, Caps Lock, Shift and Win key are portal-themed.

 
 
Arrow keys, Enter, Right Shift and End

 
 
Full view

 
With Backlighting:

 
The keycaps were custom printed from wasdkeyboards.com. Since the layout of the Race 2 is non-standard, I had to sacrifice the modifier keys (Ctrl, Win, Alt) to have the arrow keys + the right shift and end printed. To compensate for that, I replaced them with some MKC metal modifiers from banggood.com.
 
You'll see that I also have a set of metal WASD keycaps made from MKC, also from banggood.com.

As requested, here are some pictures of the WetSandyBeast turned on . The case is not painted just because I don't have a wide and dust free and cat free space to do it.
 
 
 

 

 

 
I don't have any lights for now. The CPU block as four holes for 3mm leds, so in the future I may try some in white

Looks like a nice build and the picture looks ok but it would have been nice to see more pictures, Also if you can you should add more info about it like what z77 motherboard is it for example.  =P

heres a great site for checking stuff like this
 
http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/

I joined the LTT folding team some hours ago =) have been folding since then.
BTW have they somehow lowered the usage of your cpu when running FAH compared to some months ago?
I remembered my computer running so hot that i dident even feel comftable running it just a few months ago so i uninstalled it but now the tempratures are way better.