HarmInTrying

Ok so I read most of this thread, and I do get this sort of questions a lot, both personally and online. 
 
Here's what my outlook is, most cameras now have a common spec sheet, i.e. every actually important specification like sensor size, resolution, processor, dynamic range, bells and whistles like wifi, touchscreens etc. are all fairly similar. There is some variability in the focusing systems and nikon do still need an in body AF motor to use some older lenses, which is why I tend to recommend Canon, even though this isn't that big an issue. 
 
Going mirrorless instead depends upon your own needs regarding weight and battery life. Additionally, while dslr glass tends to be cheaper, especially in the more well established used market, you do have the ability to adapt lenses on mirrorless systems. 
 
My personal recommendation for people is usually (from least to most desireable) nikon d3400, canon 750d (or whatever it is called in the US) Canon 800d. 
 
The 800d is significantly more capable, but you should be content with the 750d anyway. Just buy anyone of these that is closest to your budget and you are fine. 
 
Another strength of dlsrs is ergonomics and general useability. I find them much easier and more intuitive for a beginner to use and learn on than most comparable mirrorless systems, even though something like a fuji xt1/xt2 is probably the most intuitive due to all settings having their own dial.  
 
For glass, stick to the kit lens until you have a better idea of what you need. Many people go out and buy a kit with a telephoto lens, but most of them just carry it around. My recommendation is get the 18-55, if you need something wider or more tele, go with that after you realise you need it. 

Here is a pic with Mayhems in the system. 

I just wanted to mention the extensions as they weren't something that I really saw "the purpose of" until I had my rig built and running... then tried to put a 3.5" in my hot swap bay.  My case requires a 25mm spacer off the rad and a 90 degree mounted to that in order to clear the fans on the backside of the rad, and then immediately turn up away from the hotswap bay. I may end up moving my reservoir/pump combo to the back, in which case I can forgo the extension and just run the tubing under the fan... There are always options!
 
The other handy scenario I found for extensions was for making a drain from the rad. I just bored a hole in the bottom of my case and put in a little ~30mm extension with a plug. It's nice to have the extension extend past the bottom of the case so you have something to hold while you unscrew the plug, but how far it can extend will depend on the topography of the bottom of your case. 
 
You can get away with a lot of "guess and check" with soft tubing, but if there are critical aspects of case functionality that you don't want to sacrifice for the sake of water cooling, very carefully consider your component placement, and as well how you intend for water to get from one component to the next. I mean, it's pretty flexible, but if you ask it to do back flips things get... pretty kinky.

Since you'e working in a fairly spacious case I honestly think you'l be fine without any, but doesn' hurt to have some I guess.
 
For reference, my Ncase m1 build required about 3 small extenders to match the height of fittings.

 
But neither the 900D build nor the Define C build used any extenders. although the Define C build did use a tonne of dual45s to snake out of the basement for example. mind you this is all with hardline so is somewhat more plan worthy than soft tubing.
 

 

 

upside down is not reccommended as D5 pumps need to be fully submerged to work properly. with a little modding you could have the pump/res combo down in the PSU basement like i had with my Enthoo mATX build tough

Prime small fft is basicly just turning your pc into a toaster,
try aida64 for stability, youll even get a warning if stability issues are detected.

The blue wont fit in there and will cost like 15 times the amps value haha!
 
As a person who has owned a few vertical input JCM 800s I dont really find that too true. YMMV though. Id rather an Atomic Amplifier personally. That to me is closer in tone and response and you have the ability to load your own IRs, has midi, has DI, can choose what outputs do what etc... really powerful tool that can be used standalone or with a poweramp and cabinet if you want a more traditional sound.
 
 

You could probably buy the exact same combo pack used on Kijiji, it just won't come with a warranty. These Squire strats are a dime a dozen, but they're usually a decent guitar to learn on. Don't expect it to sound like your favourite metal leads, or some beefy djent drop C chug-chug, and the intonation won't be perfect (open E will not be exactly in tune with 12th fret E, buuut it should be). 
 
About the amp - It's pretty much a pile. Gain is tinny, cleans are thin, single EQ for clean and gain channels and no option for a foot switch. This amp will only keep up with the most gentle of jazz percussionists; any kind of rock music will require something with a bit more go-juice. 
 
If you aren't planning to jam with friends any time soon, you can skip the whole amp business and DI to your PC. This gives you you the flexibility to largely use what you already own (speakers or headphones, EQ, some DAW to run post-processing for a gain that doesn't sound like farts...; REAPER is pretty nice and no one's gonna make you pay for it if you're just messing around at home) and allow you to play around with tone, as well as record yourself. 
 
There's a couple ways to do this. I'm currently running a UR44 to my PC which gives 4 balanced XLR/ 1/4" ins with 24V phantom and decent preamps, plus 4 more 1/4"
 ins. Note: this is a recording interface, so it would be largely overkill for one person to practice with. 
 
A DI box is a simple way to boost a signal and run it directly into you PC line-in via 3.5mm audio jack. NEVER put a speak-out from an amp to your PC, good lord. Speaker outs are for speakers and loadboxes ONLY. Ask 12 year old me how he cooked his favourite pair of headphones...

https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/DI400P
 
This is the sort of device I'm talking about; you have 1/4" in for your guitar, then 1/4" out to your interface/line-in, but I'm pretty sure this specific one will sound at least as bad as the Frontman 10, but just for an idea of what kind of cost you'd be looking at for a base line. 
 
If you already have a decent pair of headphones or speakers I would advocate for this route. It'll likely* save you a couple bucks, and also give you the very objective audience that is a microphone. 

"Extenders", I guess is the correct word.
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/fittings/extenders-and-spacers/static-extender
 
 
As for the swivels, yeah, totally more risk of leaking. The swivel joint is a rubber o-ring sandwiched between two metal flanges... That's it... :\

Don't buy cheap ones, and do your leak testing. Maybe order an extra one or two, just in case? I avoid rotating the swivel joint as much as possible to minimize the wear I put on the o-ring before install. It might be more paranoia than anything but I can't really afford to replace my rig on a whim.  
 
My current build I managed to do entirely with Monsoon straight compression fittings, so I'm pretty comfortable moving it around. I would be less so with swivel fittings, but with that being said, I have plans to re-route my tubing, which will definitely involve swivel-angled fittings. Right now my pump/res/head is right in front of all but my uppermost PCI slots, so... Yeah... I'm dumb.  Hasn't been a problem until recently. Also, too swoopy and that colour.. Gross. Time for new tubing... Not to mention both of the hot swap bays at the bottom are MIA. It needs work, I'm aware.
 
Moral of the story - here are some things I screwed up - don't replicate.  
 
 

Heyo, 
 
I can't tell from from your parts list, but I would advocate for the swivel type angled fittings. They're easier to secure and line up. 
 
Spacers. 25-30mm are handy for coming off a rad, clearing a fan, and turning 90degrees. Having to put in a second order for a 3 dollar part and being charged 20 for shipping sucks. Been there. Done that. Learn from my stupid.

You can get a "kill coil" at Michaels crafts. Just buy some 99.99% silver "bezel wire". It's made for setting cabs (flat backed stones) but does the job just the same. Kill coil + distilled water works nice, but your machine is toast it it leaks; the silver will oxidize into the water over time, adding charged particles to the water (but I dare say that's true regardless of what's running in your loop).  Avoid mixing metals, like Naughty said. If you have done so, use a corrosion inhibitor; it'll reduce re-dox in your loop.
 
Have you drawn this all out yet? Where to fill, where to drain, where to mount, etc? I'd suggest this just because this stuff isn't easy to find at your corner convenience store; if you don't have everything you need at the time of the build, your PC is out of commission until your subsequent order arrives. Ain't no one got time for that; there're games to play and videos to render!
 
GL;HF!
 
PS- Don't pay for a PSU-on jumper. Just keep a paper clip in your wallet so you can show your friends your "most important tool for water cooling." Also handy for removing Apple SIM cards.
 
Check a schematic for your PSU, but on the 24 pin, there should be a line for "PSU-on" (It's green on mine) which you need to jump to a black wire (ground). If you do that and hit the switch on the PSU, you can run your pump without putting charge into any of your hardware, ie- less chance of a short if something leaks during your MINIMUM 24 HOUR LEAK TESTING with jiggling and tube tapping. If it's gonna leak, you might as well find out when everything is laden with paper towel. 

always happy to help in any little way we can lol!

On the contrary, I've only had one bad Christmas.
 
I just think half of the traditions are stupid.

You can see the difference in the fin orientation on high static pressure (HSP) vs high flow fans. HSP always have a shallower angle of attack and tighter fin placement; prevents air from flowing backwards through the fins. Verses the high-flow designs which feature a more aggressive fin angle and wider spacing... Almost like it's "throwing" air through the fan rather than "pressing" it like the HSP fans do.

I would presume HSP fans are higher in pitch than their high-flow counter-parts at the same RPM. The HSP fan "chops" the air more often, resulting in a higher frequency. All of my fans are SP120s from corsair. When it spins up to 100% (which happens when benching, and that's about it) it screams pretty good, but maintains good airflow through the thick rad, and piles of cat hair on my dust filter...