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Everything posted by LyondellBasell

  1. Just get a used 80D and a 24-70. Once you've learned the basics of photography and video you'll have a better idea of what you're looking for in a camera.
  2. It really depends on whether or not you'd like to keep the 30" monitor on its original stand. I'd start with a pole mount and two monitor arms for your two 24" monitors. You can center the mount on your desk and have both "upper" monitors articulate out from that. Place the 30" on the desk and you're good to go. If you do end up deciding to add the 30" to the pole system, you can just buy a third articulating arm and add it on after the fact. Just make sure the system you go with is rated for the kind of weight you intend to place on it.
  3. Just to contribute to this: no matter what camera you end up deciding to buy, adding lighting will be more impactful. It will be worth your budget to pick up a few compact LED lights that you can use to spotlight some of the action. It's not going to be some giant lamp with day-from-night capabilities, but if you can even get a backlight to help your viewers pick out the silhouette of the rider while they're doing their tricks, it'll make your videos alot better than 1 more f-stop on a lens will.
  4. Decent Price, Good color repro, high refresh. Pick two lol You might look at the PG27UQ. That's about as good as it's going to get at the moment.
  5. Who is the target audience in all of this? Do you have a substantial fanbase that are positively CLAMORING for your stream to be increased to 8k so they can watch it on their $10000 Sonys? Let's pump the brakes. Start with something reasonable. "I like to stream on Twitch. I have an RTX 2080 Super. Can you guys recommend a tutorial where I can learn how to setup a good-looking stream in 1080p?"
  6. Displayport MST hub would be the closest thing that exists, but I'm not sure what it really buys you. Unless you have some sort of limitation that prevents you from running multiple cables, discrete cables is the way to go.
  7. Can you describe the issue in more detail? There's not enough information to go on here, I don't see an immediate issue other than the double shadows you've got going on.
  8. Good luck. You need to increase your tripod budget, otherwise you'll be needing to start a "new camera budget" once that 2.5 kg topples over in a stiff breeze.
  9. Best you could do is buy another identical monitor with some other sort of issue with an intact screen and do the swap yourself. Asus doesn't offer the screen as a replacement part. No, you can't remove the GSync module.
  10. I don't think the BMPCC6K is what you need at this time, given your experience and camera budget. I believe you would be better served by a pro DSLR/mirrorless body with a good lens. Basic price breakdown: BMPCC6K - 2500US Tilta Cage - 460US Follow focus system - 500-1000US 50mm Canon Cine Prime - 3950US 850 Pro SSD - 460US per We're already at 8000US without a tripod, alternate lenses, extra batteries, external recorder, mounts, or any audio equipment. I applaud your ambition and appreciation for the big-budget look, but you will be better able to exercise your creativity with equipment you can use and afford.
  11. There have been at least 3 different cameras mentioned during the course of this thread. 1) Which camera are you talking about buying? 2) What scenes are you filming? What's your set like? What's the lighting like? 3) What is your budget? Can you afford to buy multiple lenses? Do you have an upgrade path in mind?
  12. Rather than immediately jumping in solo and trying to land a client, I would make the recommendation that you first look for work for another photographer or company as a second shooter/assistant covering one of their events. You'll get a clearer picture of what you need to be looking for, and you'll have an inside view of how all the photos are handled.
  13. Upping your budget will give you so many better options it's hard to not recommend you do that first. Shovel some driveways or sign up for a few shifts at McDonalds if you have to, but in the end you'll be compromising a lot less on what's available to you and what we can recommend.
  14. I would recommend something like ReelSteady for AfterEffects, that's about as good as you can get on a budget. The best you can do would be a purpose-made head camera harness that properly fits your doggo, companies like Mohoc and GoPro make them. Depending on how your dog moves it still will not give you a perfect image but it's a step in the right direction, the dog's neck will act like a gimbal and cut some of the resonant motion of walking.
  15. Nikon's Z cameras would probably be the on the bottom of the stack of new mirrorless cameras I would recommend, UNLESS she already has a collection of Nikkor lenses and wants to keep using them by adapting them. If this is a brand new camera system that she's buying into, Sony and Canon both already have more developed lens ecosystems and have better AF performance, so those cameras would be ones I would suggest her to take a look at. Just my 2c
  16. This is absolutely personal preference, but I would recommend a larger step up if you're going with primes. Keep your kit lenses and get something like the Sigma 40mm 1.4 ART. If a large quality difference is what you're looking for, I don't know that the Contemporary lenses are going to be enough.
  17. I have the S and not the SC, but if you can afford it you might look into a native Sony lens to take the adapter out of the equation. It's perhaps a more expensive path, but it will shorten your profile and make balancing easier and your overall weight lighter.
  18. Wacom's Intuos Pro and Cintiq are basically the benchmark for professional, interactive pen devices. If she hasn't tried those yet, they may be worth a shot. I have a Cintiq Pro 32 and accuracy has never been a problem that I've encountered with the device.
  19. Second this, buy a quality video light (or several, depending on what you need to do) and you should be set. Aputure has some great quality stuff for very reasonable prices.
  20. The inherent challenge for all phone camera designers boils down to the requisite size of the device. They don't have alot of space to work with, so they can't use a large sensor. Without a large sensor and lens, they are physically limited in the amount of light/photons they can capture in a specific window of time. There is A LOT that great software can do to work towards overcoming this limitation, but it IS a limitation.
  21. If your camera has an audio monitoring port, you would plug your headphones in there to check your recording levels. It should be labeled as such, hard to say without knowing the specific camera.
  22. It's a justified fear, but when you're filming the sunset, the light rays from the sun are having to travel through the atmosphere at a significantly different angle than they do in middle of the day when the eclipse occurs. This reduces the intensity of the light (which is why it's often so pleasant to shoot at golden hour). You'll be just fine.
  23. Second this. Keep the phone as your camera. Get a recorder plus a good shotgun mic, and a video light. These will be somewhat expensive if you get good versions of all of these so upgrade incrementally as you can afford them.
  24. There's a lot to unpack here but long story short, I'll sell you one for $2k USD.
  25. If the 135 you have is the f/2 DC, I'd suggest getting a D850. You'll be able to use it for portraiture since it will be a true 135 and not act like 200-something equivalent it does when you're using the d7000, and you can fully exploit its sharpness with a higher resolution sensor. Or if you're really comfortable with 50mm, maybe look at picking up the EOS R with the RF 50 1.2L. I can personally verify that it's an incredible combination.