Khris

Corsair has standards for this, the HX1000i is type 3
https://www.modders-inc.com/power-supply-pinout-repository/8/
 

As I said previous allot of things have held me back like shipping times and small health issues. Plus over the course I re-did a few things when took time to alter.

- There hasn't been allot of updates, I've been very tired of recently(I guess I was under the weather). Hopefully I can wrap everything up shortly.
 
- I decided to re-do some of dual fan ended cables (Which are linked to my Splitty9 devices to make it look cleaner from the front)
- Placed on last order from mouser (Needed more 22 AWG wire).
- One Last order from Mod-One (I don't have any left over sleeving long enough to reach).
- May place order with Case-Labs to get one item replaced.
- Trying to see if PPCS can get an item from WaterCool. Trying to avoid paying 30+ dollars in shipping.
- May add one more Standard HDD to my setup since I have spare Sata port.
 
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- Re-Sleeved some of my Sata data cables with thinner sleeving (Went from Sata Sleeving to FP Sleeving). Which reduced the bulkiness and used darker Black Heatshrink.
 

CableMod Sata Cable (I just wish they had right angle version)
 

Darkside Sata Cable Sleeved with MDPC-X and Panduit heatshrink
 


 
Molex Sata Cable Sleeved with MDPC-X and Panduit heatshrink
 

 
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Some Small Cable Management:
- USB 2.0 Cable are still annoying since they fall out to easily, First Up Fan Cables.
 

 
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Dual Lighting setup:
 

 
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Screw chart just in-Case anyone needs it,  Wanted to double check to see if 6-32 would fit inside M3.5 hole. They are indeed the same:
 

 
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Dyed the rest of my connectors:
 




 
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As much as I love Molex, I hate there KK 2.54(Fan Terminals) reels (Mainly since I don't have proper cutter tool for cutting the terminals from the reel). You can buy them pre-cut but there more expensive that way. You can save about 10 dollars for every 100 terminals when just buying the reel version.
 

 
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Single sleeved Fan Cable process. PET requires heatshrink where Paracord you can just burn the sleeving.
 
PET:
 

 
vs
 
ParaCord:
 

 
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End Result (Paracord):
 


 
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Small UV Test:
 




 
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RGB LED 5mm(I've switched to Metal resistors since there Tolerance is 1% and easier to solder metal vs the thin string that carbon resistors have):
 

 
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Heatshrink Brands:
 

 
Panduit -> Molex -> MDPC-X.
- Molex has the thinnest walls possible
- Panduit has the blackest.
- Panduit is higher quality then MDPC-X
- MDPC-X has the best shrinking ratio (4:1) where Panduit and Molex has 2:1.
 

Do not lick it

that monitor is stunning

Project: Xyla is a personal custom project of mine that I have been designing for some time now. This was my first time using a 3D modeling software and as much as I enjoyed designing it, I am eager to actually start building now. It is a scratch DIY PC desk build so this will take some time as I want knockout any imperfections as I go. Overall it is my third computer build and my first custom water cooled system as well. I’ve done tons of research on the dos and don’ts of watercooling so in theory, I shouldn’t run into any problems (major ones at least). I’ve always had a big interest for DIY anything, but more so for computer technology and such. It’ll be a fun project, modding is always fun.
 

 

 
 

 

 

 
It took me a few months+ to design this... Sad to say that long (first time using SketchUp ever) but I went in detail about literally everything in here (I will post more pictures down the road). I wanted to make a "manual" for myself when I start building this project.
 
As for assembly for the desk, the main parts will be CNC milled and every other part will be done with power tools and a touch of pixie dust. I’m going to stain the legs dark, carbon fiber wrap the desk’s “guts and skin”, and paint everything else matte black. The glass will be custom cut and tempered for durability.
 
I will be using MDPC-X for sleeving all PSU cables and other computer wires to make cable management as easy and as pretty as possible. All other visible wires (fans wires, LED wires, etc.) will be in accordance with this colorway as well. I have received my MDPC sample kit and these cable sleeves are stunning! I can't wait to start sleeving these.
 


I am pretty patient when it comes to building anything but if there seems to be any flaws or something that seems like it wouldn’t work, please feel free to let me know. I am open to your beautiful minds.
 

 
PC Components
CPU: Intel 8600K*
Cooling: EKWB Cooling
MOBO: Asus ROG Strix Z370-E**
RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 32GB 3000MHz
GPU: Asus ROG Strix 1080
Storage: Samsung 960 Evo 250GB PCIe NVMe M.2 SSD
Samsung 850 Evo 250GB SSD
Samsung 850 Evo 500GB SSD
Seagate 2TB FireCuda Gaming SSHD
PSU: Corsair HX1000i 80+ Platinum
Keyboard: Corsair K70 Lux RGB
Mouse: Corsair M65 Pro
Headset: Corsair Void Pro RGB
Monitor: TBD (haven't decided, would like your opinion)
 
Desk Components
TBD
 
*Awaiting Cannon Lake/Ice Lake - also depends if it’s worth to get or not.
**May change if Z370 chipset does not support Cannon Lake or Ice Lake (most likely won’t support)
 
 
 
Overall, this project is not immediate as I expect it to take over a couple to several months with my available free time.

This looks pretty cool.

Oooo I like these renders! Followed!

more like tasty power grid.

(why do new users always feel the need to make a post about their build here, and not post anything in detail, just listing specs)

MFC does not carry MDPC-X. They carry teleios which is Chinese brand sleeving. Mod-One is the only US supplier of MDPC-X.
 
Paracord also requires a threader, it will be a bit trickier to get the wire/terminal through the cord. There also two types of Paracord 550 cord and cordless. One just has internal strings inside of it expanding the cord to max. The other has not been stretched out. MainFrame Sells cordless, It's one of the few places that actually sells quality Cordless.
 

 
Paracord Titan is best brand around currently, you can find it easily on Amazon.
 
Cablemod is no where near MDPC-X quality.
 
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I have sleeved allot of cables over the year and PET(MDPC-X is still my preferred type of sleeving. I use paracord only when I need to create much smaller OD cables.
 
MDPC-X has introduced there new XTC series, I still prefer the old classic series. Even MDPC-X heatshrink is better then most other companies heatshrink.
 
a warning avoid teleios sleeving. I just had to many problems with it, there been times the same colors would be two different shades, other times the size of the sleeving were different making it nearly impossible to get wiring through the sleeving.
 
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Here is my Cable using MDPC-X Black
 

 
 

If your looking for sleeving material to do it yourself MDPC-X is one of the best as it gets, places like Mainframe Customs and Mod-One carry their supplies. 

Paracord isn't really a cable sleeving brand, it has an entirely different intended purpose, it just happens to be the right size for use as cable sleeving. I personally like using Paracord because it's cheap to buy in long lengths and there's a ridiculous amount of different colours and patterns. I would definitely advise not buying it from somewhere that adversities it as "cable sleeving" as you'll end up paying a lot more. Buy it from a camping or outdoor activity type store and you'll get more for your money.
 
As the name suggested, it's actually parachute cord, intended to be used for parachutes. I believe the most common paracord (paracord 550) can support 550lbs of weight. Now days it's used for a massive variety of things. It's often used in the military, so much that there are military specifications for it like MIL-C-5040H.
 
As for actual purpose made cable sleeving, MDPC-X is the main one, though you'll find basically the same thing under different names (like CableMod's ModMesh). It's more plasticy than paracord, but to some extent can be easier to work with as it doesn't snag on sharp bits as much as paracord does. 
 
 
 
 

I figured an old one might work. I found some online for around $20 so I might end up doing that. My coworker lent me his adapter for the same situation, and he said that worked. So I'm gonna try that and then if not I'll buy me a dinosaur computer for the hell of it :-). Thanks for the help btw!
I tried Ubuntu and I didn't get far. Now I can't properly boot Windows from my SSD lol. I did a partition to install Ubuntu but some shit didn't work correctly so I deleted the Ubuntu partition but it still has the bootloader or something on there so whenever I boot directly from the SSD it says 'No such partition Grub rescue'.

Dear Lord 100C? What brand thermal paste?

Hello
 
System spec :
 
Case : Be Quiet ! Dark Base Pro 900, White (Limited edition)
CPU : Intel Core i7-8700k @ 5Ghz vcore 1.240
DDR : G.Skill Trident Z RGB 3466 2x 8gb
Motherboard : ASUS MAXIMUS X HERO
Cooling : Custom watercooling
PSU : Seasonic PRIME Ultra 750 W Titanium
Cable : BitFenix Alchemy 2.0 SSC-Series, Blanc
GPU : EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 FTW GAMING HYDRO COPPER, 8 Go
HDD + SSD : 250 go SSD Samsung 960 EVO (Windows 10) + 250go SSD Samsung 850 EVO + Seagate 1TO
LED : NZXT HUE+ and Be quiet LED CASE
Os : Windows 10 pro 64bits
 
Watercooling :
 
Pomp/Res:
EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM
EK-RES X3 - TUBE 250
EK-RES X3 Multiport
Internal tube 12/16mm
EK Water Blocks - EK-UNI Pump Bracket 120mm Vertical
 
Blocks:
EK-FB ASUS M9H Monoblock - Nickel / Plexi
GPU integrated
 
Radiators/Fans:
EK-CoolStream CE 420 top + 3x Be Quiet ! Silent Wings 3 PWM, 140 mm
EK-CoolStream SE 360 front + 3x EK-Vardar EVO 120S 
 
Fittings/Tubing:
3x EK-HD PETG Tube 12/16mm 500mm (2 pcs)
8 x EK-HDC 16mm
5x EK-AF Angled 2*45°
8x EK-AF Angled 90°
6 x EK-AF Extender 8mm M/F
1x EK-AF Extender 6mm 1/4" M/M 
1x EK-AF Extender 12mm 1/4" M/M 
5x EK Water Blocks - Bouchon EK-CSQ Plug 1/4" - Badge EK - Nickel
Alphacool - Sonde de Température Eiszapfen
 
Liquid :
Mayhems - Pastel Blue 1L
Mayhems - Ultra Pure H2O 1L
 
Drainage system:
1x EK-AF X-Splitter 4F
1x EK-AF Ball Valve
 
Other :
EK Water Blocks - Kit EK-HD Tube D.I.Y. Kit 10 & 12mm
Monsoon - Heat gun 1800W + Protective gloves
Cooling.fr - Reamer hard tubing
DocMicro.com - Bridge ATX 24 pins
Phobya - Splitter 4 pins PWM 3 x 4 pins PWM
 
UPDATE 30/12 new pic
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 






 
I was inspired by this from YouTube :
 

 
Guide that allow me to understand how to build the custom loop :
 
 

HI, and welcome to my very first guide showing you how to sleeve your very own computer cables. There are tones of guides on line that show you various ways of doing is. But this is the way I like to do it and gives you pretty good results. In this guide I will be covering two things, 1. Fabricating your custom length cable and 2. Sleeving them. If you have no desire to create your own cables or there are already at a suitable length the guide should still be easy enough to follow. (Hopefully) To begin with I will cover the main things you will need. 1. Flush Wire Cutters 2. MDPC Sleeving 3. Heat Shrink 4. Wire (I use 18 Gauge, 16 should work just as well) 5. ATX Pin Remover 6. ATX Pins 7. MDPC Crimping Tool 8. Wire Stripers 9. Metal/Engineers Ruler 10. Scissors (or a second pair of Wire Cutter) 11. Lighter 12. Heat Gun With Adjustable Temp 13. Razor Blades Step 1. Cut your desired amount of wires to your required length required with one of the pairs of your wire cutters. Step 2. Tape your ruler down to your work surface to secure it in place to ensure an exact measurement for every wire you cut. Step 3. Holding your wire firmly alongside the edge of the ruler making sure it is flush against the end, make a nick in the insulation of the wire at the 5mm mark. (you might find it easier to tape the wire alongside the ruler if you want perfection)
Step 4. Using your wire stripers. remove the insulation from the mark you have just made in the previous step.
Step 5. Now here is the tricky part. So I am going to try and show you the easiest way I find to crimp the pins onto the end of the wire. Taking one of you pins, hold it between the 18-22 AWG section jaws., gently squeeze the handles to you hear one click. This should now hold the pin in place.
If you continue to squeeze the handles for another two clicks you will expand the wings on the pin enough so you can insert your wire in between.
Continue to squeeze the handles to crimp the pin on to the end of the cable.

Success!!!!
 
 
Now it is just the case of repeating these five steps until you have the required amount. Next we are going to want to start sleeving the cables you have just finished making. There are two main methods of doing this 1. With Heat Shrink or 2. Shrink less (Without Heat Shrink) today I will be showing you how to do it with as I think it gives you a better look than without. The first thing you are going to want to do is cut a piece of sleeving the same length as the cable you have just made. The easiest way to do this is by pinching the heat shrink against the wire, leaving about a 2 millimetre gap before the pin starts.
Holding the sleeve in the same place between you right thumb and index finger, pinching the wire and the sleeving together with the left. slide your hand down the wire making sure to keep it nice and tight.
When you get to the other end, cut the sleeving with a pair of your flush cutters making sure to leave the same 2 mil gap you did the other end.
It is a good idea to melt the end of your sleeve after you have made any cuts to prevent it from fraying, this can be done by applying a little heat to the sleeve with your lighter, just enough to you can see in bubble ever so slightly.
 
Next thing we need to do is get the sleeve over the wire. If you wish you can tape the pins with masking tape if you are worried about them snagging, but really it is only necessary when you are working with paracord. To get your sleeve over the wire, you need to expand and contract it in a snake like motion up the wire. 1. Push the sleeving over the fist pin as far as you can
2. Then holding the wire firmly in place with your right hand, compress the sleeving over the pin until you can grab it with your left hand.
3. Then let go of the sleeve you are holding with your right hand.
Repeat these steps until you can see enough of the pin the other end to pull it through.
If you are having a bit of trouble getting it through, heat the end of the sleeving up ever so slightly with your lighter until you can pull it through.
Don't worry if the sleeve is looking a bit on the short side, we still need to stretch it again before we put the heat shrink on. We are now going to start adding the heat shrink onto the ends of our wire. Now If you are shopping from MDPC and certain other stores, you can buy your heat shrink in pre-cut 15mm pieces, however this is usually more expensive and you get less than what you would if you bought in a single 1 meter piece This is what this simple tool is for. To cut 15mm pieces of heat shrink quickly and easily every time. :) I may post a guide depending on the interest, it is simple enough to make though.
Once you have got your heat shrink prepared make sure you have your heat gun ready, and reposition the sleeve on the wire till its two mil away from the pin, just like you did when you was measuring it.
Whilst holding the sleeve in place get a piece of your heat shrink and slide on to the wire. It is vital that the sleeve doesn't move at this point or else you won't get a flush fit against the Molex connector.
Start to shrink it, until there is some resistance when you try and move it up the wire. Or until you can start to see the sleeve show through.
You now need to position on the pin, using the second set of wings as a guide continue to shrink it over those second set of wings. (See image above)
 
 
And, Presto!
 
 
If you are having trouble getting the wire to fit into the connector you can try heating it up with your heat gun, if it doesn't go after that unfortunately you are going to have to redo the heat shrink and re-position the sleeve
 
 
 
. After that there is Just 23 more to do.  :)

I completely admire your craftsmanship.
+1

Hello
 
 
I decided to build my own custom case from scratch because the caces that were on the market did not meet my expectations of both appearance, compatibility, etc, and already somehow found it was awfully expensive. In this way, the idea was that I would create such a case myself;)
 
 
The design is mine, all the pieces are done alone and are still under construction.
 
The decision was that it would be a Miedium Tower. It will be made of PMMA material with the possibility of making changes at any time. It will be made of individual modules twisted together with the cube with threaded holes. If you need to change any item, I modify it or make a new one.
 
Little data.
 
dimensions:
 
Frame + covers 535x460x226 + glass 547x472x250
 
Fans:
 
Front x3 120
Top x3 140
Back x1 120
 
 
The frame will be made of black acrylic 3mm thick + on it will cover the mirror or black mat also 3mm thick. All this goes for "smoked glass" ie PMMA 5mm separated by sleeves and chamfered edges of 45 degrees and polished diamond cutter.
 
Below I upload some photos from the prototype of the rack.
 




















 

Stage 2
All elements already cut from the target material (at all still protective film)
 
Left to make the nuts to screw "glass" and put the residue.
 
Next step, look for parts to fill the case inside. Only then will I take up the layout of the interior.
 
 
















 

Stage 3
 






















 
 
Some photos from sponsors
 
 



























 
 
Plans have changed a bit and parts from be quitet! I will use for another project that is already in my head
 
This project will only include Straight Power 10 600W


































 

First attempt of custom reservoir
 
 




















I have also got a motherboard and a processor but I need to take pictures
 
Thanks to the mainboard I can continue to work so you can expect in the next time the progress of the work
 
To be continued...
 
PS
Sorry for my English

what about samsung products? isn't that how all electronics are anyways?

what about samsung products? isn't that how all electronics are anyways?

what about samsung products? isn't that how all electronics are anyways?

How it looks on my desk.
 

 
And thats it! Hope you guys like my build. :-)

That would be the simplest way to go directly from hardline to soft tubing, another is a passthrough fitting if you going through a motherboard tray or basement which does the same as the extender. 

You can but it's usually not worth the cost unless your planning something really specific. You will require tools to cut the acrylic such as a table saw, files and sandpaper for smoothing things out and solvent glues/adhesives for gluing it together. After your going to want to pressure test it to ensure there is no possibility of leaks.