Opencircuit74

2 hours ago, Filingo said:

thank you.

 

How well do you think it should improve in this case?

 

I just checked the performance while he was playing Fortnite - the CPU was over 80% usage while the GPU was only 20-30%. Do you have an idea if the GPU usage should be higher in Fortnite in this case? The graphics settings were the lowest and he was getting some average 130 FPS with drops to below 100

It's hard to say exactly how much better it would be, but the 5700x has a way better architecture, clock speeds, core count, etc. The GPU usage being low usually means something else is preventing it from being used all the way, which looks to be the CPU in this case.

The 3070 Ti has some great performance, you're right in suggesting the CPU upgrade first.

The RAM could be another potential upgrade after the CPU, depending on what he has installed, but he'd see a big improvement with the newer chip.

Yes, Windows 11 won't support the 7th gen CPUs, but the X299 motherboards that are used with them will. I just picked up a 7900X from that seller, but can easily upgrade to a 9900X in four years when the Windows 10 support expires.

I doubt any malicious activity was going on, as one would expect the price of older parts to drop as they go EOL.

Found this guy a while back. It still works, surprisingly, and those two GPUs get toasty just sitting there. I can't imagine how hot this thing gets under load.

I wouldn't trust task manager to accurately display CPU frequency. If you really want to know what your CPU is running at, consider using HWinfo or CPU-Z.

Try resetting the CMOS on your motherboard, if there's something up with the BIOS that should fix it.

The performance increase you might get from going to a 710 is negligible. I'd save some money for a better card.

2 minutes ago, Shreyasb said:

Which fan did you use ?

 

I had two system fans pointed at the heatsink, as I didn't want to wear out the OG fan from folding 24/7.

I've had a PNY RTX 2060 in a folding machine for the longest time, and I had disconnected the fan to expose the bare heatsink and put a different one there. Before I did that, there were no problems with the card and the fan control worked fine on my computer.

Now, I have returned the 2060's fan and put it back into my computer, but MSI afterburner won't control the fan speed whatsoever. I believe the controller/connector isn't broken, as the fan runs at normal speeds without a driver or before the driver is loaded in windows. 

I've run DDU on my old driver and installed the latest one, but I haven't noticed any change in the fan speed.

Help would be appreciated.

25 minutes ago, Feyza said:

How can I solve that problem, do I go ahead and buy another case or can i modify the connectors for the I/O buttons (I finished High School of Elecrtrical Engeeniring, so soldering is my second language xD)

Yeah, it's a lot of soldering.

I looked into it for a while, and the work involved is ridiculous. You'd have to get a USB 3.0 to 2.0 header (or just solder the wires directly, but again, more work), cut the dell front panel wire near the buttons, cut the dell power switch near the buttons, cut the acer audio cable near the connector, cut one of the acer USB cables near the connector, and cut the acer power switch near the connector. You'd then have to attach one of the acer USB headers (with the connector still attached) to the USB adapter, and plug that into the dell motherboard. Then, you'd have to identify the USB part of the dell front panel wire and solder the wires to the acer USB that you cut, do the same with the audio, and the same again with the power switch. 

If you're really creative, you might also get the HDD LED to work, but that's generally unnecessary.

That's a lot of work, and a lot of room to go wrong. I would just pick up a secondhand motherboard that supports that CPU and use the standard connectors on that. Usually the boards made by intel or an OEM (such as HP, but make sure there are standard USB and audio connectors) are cheapest.

15 minutes ago, Feyza said:

Also sorry for replying in 3 differrent posts, but I keep forgetting everything

This is the other case that I stopped using a few days ago when i bought this.

You can see the PSU and some of the connectors as well as the old motherboard which i want to take out

The case fan will be removed because this heatsink with its fan needs to connect to that part of the case.

 

https://postimg.cc/gallery/vnVkP89 <<<<<<<<< PICTURES

Nonstandard front panel connectors are going to ruin your day, you won't have any I/O or even the ability to turn it on if you just throw the optiplex motherboard in that case with no modifications.

Instead of that SSD I would get something larger like the Crucial P1, but overall that looks pretty good.

95 is really hot for a CPU, especially long-term. I wouldn't keep that overclock without a better cooler.

In regard to the power supply, the wattage its maximum capacity, not what it will output at all times. For example, I have an 850W power supply, but may only use 400W while gaming. Your 300W power supply will not fry this computer (given decent quality, not mustard cables and and a silver box).

The socket for this motherboard should have the same spacing as a regular lga115x, but if you wanted to replace the cooler the entire motherboard would have to taken out and the backplate that allows the stock cooler to be screwed in removed. In essence, it's able to be done.

There lies a larger issue, however, and that is with the motherboard design itself. Because this is a proprietary design, Dell has taken some liberties with the mounting and front panel connectors. The board will not have any I/O plate and will not be able to interface* with any case you install it, as the connector is one monolith instead of the separate, standard ones. 

This could be fixed with serious determination and decent soldering skills, but you're basically stuck with that case.

* Snippet of technical guidebook FP connector:

I guess the main question is what is your budget?

Mine would be the Dell XPS 730 H2C ceramic liquid cooler. I don't have performance numbers on hand (10 year old system), but it was exceptional in that it incorporated thermal electric coolers and liquid cooled both the chipset and the CPU. 

Mind the watermark, but here's a good idea as to what it looked like: (The leftmost radiator is just a simple rad, but the middle one is where 4 TECs lie.)

The 1660 Ti is slightly faster (2-5FPS) than the 1660 Super, which is relatively insignificant and can probably be made up with a slight overclock. I would go for the super.

10 minutes ago, CostcoSamples said:

Any reason I can't just unplug or remove it?  Why is this a thing.

The X570 chipset uses around 7.5W, significantly more than is usual (>2x X470's 2.9W), which means a larger heatsink (or a smaller one with a fan) had to be used. You could unplug it and be fine, but the heatsink isn't designed to dissipate that much power passively, possibly causing damage to the board. TL;DR: Don't unplug it.

2 minutes ago, LamoidZombieDog said:

yes its a 900W battery. the model is the BR1500MS. i will open the side later and check on al the specs to put here. im more trying to find the exact MAH rather then how many times it will charge my phone but

 

You don't even have to do that. Per the website, it's a 257Wh battery, but the efficiency graph shows it becomes extremely inefficient as the power usage approaches 0, which means you will get very few charges from this, if you wish to charge your phone while the UPS is not plugged in.

The Volt-Amp (VA) is not a measure of battery capacity, but rather a measure of power output. 1500VA is mathematically identical to 1500W (P=VA), but the circuitry of the UPS (or whatever is rated for that) reduces the 1500VA figure to around 900W. 

If you want to know the capacity of the battery, you may have to consult the manual for the battery specifications (or replacement information).Cracking the side also works, however I would not recommend that option. 

Once you have the capacity, multiply the amp-hour rating by its voltage to get a measure of Watt-hours (Wh). This is where the estimate becomes rather crude. The 4300MAH battery capacity (assuming a nominal cell voltage of 3.7V) would equate to around 16Wh of charge. 

Take the capacity of the UPS (in Wh) and divide it by the 16Wh of the phone to get a rough number of charges before losses. A ballpark number for efficiency of the system is 30% (I could be a fair bit off on this one), so take the number of charges and multiply it by .7 to get a final number. 

This is, of course, neglecting the power use of the UPS while it's not doing anything at all, which may reduce the charges by a significant amount.

150FPS sounds about right for your hardware, are you using task manager to see GPU use? If so, you have nothing to worry about, as task manager usually does not show the correct amount anyway.

I've been running the CM 240 lite for a couple of years now and the performance has been great, but the fans have a lot of vibration. If you end up getting that one, you'd have to add extra rubber or something, as they make a horrible sound past 950RPM. 

3 minutes ago, Biscuit Boy said:

when the drive setup asks about a "simple volume size in mb", what is that asking me to do and what size would you reccomend for a 2tb hhd?

?

It wants to know how big to make the partition, the default value (whatever is there initially) is the full capacity of the drive. Just leave that alone.

If anyone is trying to build this for themselves, I would recommend using a thin mini itx motherboard. I was able to cram an i7 and 2060 into the fat PS2, but a power supply brick would have made that impossible.

This seems to be an add-in card for an ISA backplate, specifically the BM-401 backplate made by Matrix Integrated Systems for the Matrix Integrated Systems System 10 style 1104 descum machine. I hope this helps you find specifically what it is.