Business Corgi

Remember back when monitors didn't used to have motion blur or input latency? PVM remembers. Remember when 480i was all you needed and all this muck about HDR and Four-K was just a far off space opera fantasy that only existed inside the imaginations of science fiction writers? PVM remembers.
 
Look, I get it. I have a modern 4K display for my console and comfy couch PC gaming. I even have a GSync monitor because why not, I shouldn't have nice things? But I tried emulation--Lordy I tried. Maybe I've got a screw loose but it just isn't the same. I can't always place it but games running on an emulator hardly ever feel *right*. I can live with scaling and clean scan-line free pixels but I just can't bring myself to enjoy emulated games in most cases (PSX on PS Vita being a notable exception). A big part of that is latency.
 
I know I don't need to use high-end monitors such as these to get the feel of gaming on original hardware. I just need original hardware and any old CRT. But if you're going to commit to the sizable amount of space a CRT takes you might as well go bonkers and try to go for the best IQ possible. Enter the PVM. From a practical point of view I feel like these are significantly better than your average consumer end television. The boxy shape and handles (!!!) make them relatively easy to transport. I set these up a few days ago and I forgot how much I miss the hands on instant gratification of trim pots. Not having to cycle through menus is a breath of fresh air.
 
Both of these were work-horses in the medical field. The Sony is a 600TVL 19" 1953ST which was part of an endoscopy suite. PVMs that were used in hospitals are nice because they're often in good condition and weren't running 24/7 unlike those used in production/broadcast/security. The Olympus is a white-label Sony Trinitron PVM-20M2UDU that was also used as a monitor for an endoscope.
 
How do they look? Well, keep YouTube's compression in mind but...
 
 

Remember back when monitors didn't used to have motion blur or input latency? PVM remembers. Remember when 480i was all you needed and all this muck about HDR and Four-K was just a far off space opera fantasy that only existed inside the imaginations of science fiction writers? PVM remembers.
 
Look, I get it. I have a modern 4K display for my console and comfy couch PC gaming. I even have a GSync monitor because why not, I shouldn't have nice things? But I tried emulation--Lordy I tried. Maybe I've got a screw loose but it just isn't the same. I can't always place it but games running on an emulator hardly ever feel *right*. I can live with scaling and clean scan-line free pixels but I just can't bring myself to enjoy emulated games in most cases (PSX on PS Vita being a notable exception). A big part of that is latency.
 
I know I don't need to use high-end monitors such as these to get the feel of gaming on original hardware. I just need original hardware and any old CRT. But if you're going to commit to the sizable amount of space a CRT takes you might as well go bonkers and try to go for the best IQ possible. Enter the PVM. From a practical point of view I feel like these are significantly better than your average consumer end television. The boxy shape and handles (!!!) make them relatively easy to transport. I set these up a few days ago and I forgot how much I miss the hands on instant gratification of trim pots. Not having to cycle through menus is a breath of fresh air.
 
Both of these were work-horses in the medical field. The Sony is a 600TVL 19" 1953ST which was part of an endoscopy suite. PVMs that were used in hospitals are nice because they're often in good condition and weren't running 24/7 unlike those used in production/broadcast/security. The Olympus is a white-label Sony Trinitron PVM-20M2UDU that was also used as a monitor for an endoscope.
 
How do they look? Well, keep YouTube's compression in mind but...
 
 

It's been a long time since I've been around a consumer CRT. I remember a high-pitch whine from the ones I used to have years ago but these don't seem to have that. I can take a video if you'd like.

I love these old style monitors (PVM)!
They just look so good for retro gaming (I would love to get one for my 6th gen consoles, GC, Xbox, PS2). On a more modern flatpanel the games just don't look as good.
'My Life in Gaming' kind of introduced me into all that stuff, from just me looking up the best way to hook up a PS2 (I just wanted to know if component was the way to go and now I am thinking about 'sync on luma', bob-deinterlacing and all that stuff the entire time).
 
Awesome find! 
 
One question though; not sure if you notice such a thing, but when I am in a thrift store in the TV department I hear the high pitched 'beeping' from all the (CRT) TV's. Do these PVM's also have that?
Not to sound rude, but I know some people cannot hear the high pitched noise from the CRT TV's, so if you can answer the question about the PVM's, do you mind answering if you hear the CRT beeping too?

Remember back when monitors didn't used to have motion blur or input latency? PVM remembers. Remember when 480i was all you needed and all this muck about HDR and Four-K was just a far off space opera fantasy that only existed inside the imaginations of science fiction writers? PVM remembers.
 
Look, I get it. I have a modern 4K display for my console and comfy couch PC gaming. I even have a GSync monitor because why not, I shouldn't have nice things? But I tried emulation--Lordy I tried. Maybe I've got a screw loose but it just isn't the same. I can't always place it but games running on an emulator hardly ever feel *right*. I can live with scaling and clean scan-line free pixels but I just can't bring myself to enjoy emulated games in most cases (PSX on PS Vita being a notable exception). A big part of that is latency.
 
I know I don't need to use high-end monitors such as these to get the feel of gaming on original hardware. I just need original hardware and any old CRT. But if you're going to commit to the sizable amount of space a CRT takes you might as well go bonkers and try to go for the best IQ possible. Enter the PVM. From a practical point of view I feel like these are significantly better than your average consumer end television. The boxy shape and handles (!!!) make them relatively easy to transport. I set these up a few days ago and I forgot how much I miss the hands on instant gratification of trim pots. Not having to cycle through menus is a breath of fresh air.
 
Both of these were work-horses in the medical field. The Sony is a 600TVL 19" 1953ST which was part of an endoscopy suite. PVMs that were used in hospitals are nice because they're often in good condition and weren't running 24/7 unlike those used in production/broadcast/security. The Olympus is a white-label Sony Trinitron PVM-20M2UDU that was also used as a monitor for an endoscope.
 
How do they look? Well, keep YouTube's compression in mind but...
 
 

That's a Model M poking out there....

The price and availability of the Dancase mITX ought to count too.

I used my phone.

It gets the job done, what more can be said?
 
i7-6700K @ 4.7Ghz 68°C @ ~24°C Ambiant
Noctua NH-D15
Asus Z170 Gaming (Rebate was approved on 5/3/17. When the hell am I going to get my rebate check/gift card?!?!?) It's been 90 days since I purchased, close to 90 days since I sent in the rebate form!
Corsair 2x8 LPX 3000Mhz
MSI GTX 1080 Ti Gaming X
Noctua NF-F14 Front Intake x2 (x2 Stock 140MM fans exhaust)
Samsung 850 250GB SSD
WD Blue 1TB HDD (Non-Steam Games)
WD Black 2TB HDD (Steam Games)
WD Green 3TB HDD (Movies, Music, General Backup)
Silverstone SST75FGS 750W Fully Modular Gold PSU
Fractal Define R5
 
It I could do-over I think I would have gone with the Evolv Enthoo Pro M, a different PSU and fewer (but larger) HDDs. I don't have any one drive big enough to back up everything that's on all the drives I own right now and that makes me somewhat nervous. I wish the cables weren't such a mess. I can't do much more with them considering the materials and length.
 

The price and availability of the Dancase mITX ought to count too.

Took off the overvolt. Derp. We'll see how it pans out.

Kidding.
 

 
I used to do the /r/spaceporn wallpaper thing until some recent major health issues. Looking at that orangutan cheers me up the way cold empty space never could.

I was not getting excellent temps or a particularly great OC out of my i7-6700K so I decided to try my luck delidding it. I used the razor method and had good luck with ultra thin razors used for shaving. The old school ones. They're very thin and bendy though so I suggest being extremely careful. I started with the corners and worked my way around the IHS making sure not to cut too deep. I managed to remove the IHS and clean ALL the glue residue without damaging anything. They sell products specifically for delidding these processors and I would recommend those to the faint of heart. I used the floating method instead of re-gluing the IHS to the PCB and I'm very glad I did for reasons I'll get into later.
 
I HAD BAD LUCK AT FIRST.
 
I used Arctic MX-4 thermal paste between the die and the IHS and my temps did not improve significantly. At 1.335 on the VCORE I would hit 80C with a 4.6Ghz clock pretty soon after starting AIDA64. I tried several reapplications and eventually switched thermal pastes to Noctua NT-H1 and experienced similar results. I was very disappointed.
 
THEN I TRIED SOMETHING DIFFERENT.
 
So yeah, I was pretty bummed that I voided my CPU warranty for nothing. So I did some digging to see if there was anything I could do that might significantly improve temps. I looked into things like mounting the cooler directly onto the die but decided it was too dangerous/too much work. Eventually I came across peopled talking about having good results with Coollabratory Liquid Ultra TIM being on their hot running Kaby Lake CPUs. I have got to say... WOW.
I've been running AIDA64 for the last hour minutes or so and instead of shooting up to 80°C+ right away I'm still sitting at 56°C on the hottest core. My CPU fans would obviously hit 100% before and now they aren't coming anywhere close to that. So lower fan speeds and temp differences of close to 25°C. This is absolutely insane. For the record, ambient temps in the room are always a steady 70°F or ~21°C.
 
The liquid metal TIM made a huge difference but it's not without its faults. It's a pain in the ass to apply and I got some on my my plastic/vinyl place mat and it must have had some sort of weird chemical reaction because it looks like it left a burn on the mat. Be really careful not to get this stuff on anything. BTW, it IS conductive so be extremely careful not to get it on any contacts of your MOBO or CPU. I only used the stuff between the IHS and the die. I did not use any between the heatsink and the IHS because you need to scuff up both surfaces for it to stick properly to those surfaces. I used the Noctua NT-H1 TIM for use between the Noctua heatsink and the IHS.
 
My recommendation if you're going to try it: I used tape around the PCB and left the die exposed. I was able to brush on the thermal compound without having to worry about any of it touching the PCB. I then took this same tape and used it on the underside of the IHS to apply a thin layer there. Dead center, exactly the same size and shape as the die. I used regular scotch tape that was pretty hard to work with being thin and sticky and all. It might be better to use the tape to get the perfect size and shape of the die and then apply the tape to a piece of construction paper and cut a die sized hole out of the paper. That way you don't have to deal with anything sticky.
 
TL:DR. I had a completely opposite experience w/ my delid experience as Linus did in this video and this video. Although unlike Linus' liquid metal vid, I applied the TIM to the die and not the top of the IHS.
 

 
This build was heavily inspired by this LTT review as you can see :P

https://pcpartpicker.com/b/MgYrxr
 
Conclusion: Worth the risk. As I said before, I was extremely disappointed with the delidding results prior to using the liquid metal TIM. At that point it was absolutely not worth voiding the warranty. However, I really couldn't have asked for a better final result. I've heard that Thermal Grizzly makes a product that's even better than what I used but I still can't fathom better results than what I got. I'll keep my fingers crossed that I won't run into issues down the line but for now I'm very happy. I was getting pretty unacceptable temps at very reasonable voltages before and now, well, you can see for yourself. This gives me a lot more headroom to overclock in my little ITX case, and/or gives me peace of mind that I'm not going to slowly kill my CPU with heat.

It's been two weeks and we're still going strong! Before the liquid metal I used Noctua and MX4 TIM on my delidded die. Any thermal benefit I would have gotten from this would be looooooooooooooong gone by now.
 
Linus really ought to redo the video about this.
 
I also just made the switch to a blower style cooler which I think might improve my cpu temps since I'm using an MITX case.

I'm using a Noctua NH-D15 in an mITX case (Phanteks Evolv ITX). I disagree with people who say ITX have bad cooling (at least on the CPU side of things). #notallitxcases
 
64°C @ 4.7Ghz and ~1.4 VCORE
 
Side panel closed.

Mine is an IBM Model M buckling spring keyboard from 1993. The missing windows key is the only bummer (this keyboard predates that being a thing) but apart from that it's hard to get used to typing on any other keyboard. There's really nothing quite like it (apart from other Model M and Unicomp stuff). I was 3 when this was made. I found it in a little computer shop for $10.

I was not getting excellent temps or a particularly great OC out of my i7-6700K so I decided to try my luck delidding it. I used the razor method and had good luck with ultra thin razors used for shaving. The old school ones. They're very thin and bendy though so I suggest being extremely careful. I started with the corners and worked my way around the IHS making sure not to cut too deep. I managed to remove the IHS and clean ALL the glue residue without damaging anything. They sell products specifically for delidding these processors and I would recommend those to the faint of heart. I used the floating method instead of re-gluing the IHS to the PCB and I'm very glad I did for reasons I'll get into later.
 
I HAD BAD LUCK AT FIRST.
 
I used Arctic MX-4 thermal paste between the die and the IHS and my temps did not improve significantly. At 1.335 on the VCORE I would hit 80C with a 4.6Ghz clock pretty soon after starting AIDA64. I tried several reapplications and eventually switched thermal pastes to Noctua NT-H1 and experienced similar results. I was very disappointed.
 
THEN I TRIED SOMETHING DIFFERENT.
 
So yeah, I was pretty bummed that I voided my CPU warranty for nothing. So I did some digging to see if there was anything I could do that might significantly improve temps. I looked into things like mounting the cooler directly onto the die but decided it was too dangerous/too much work. Eventually I came across peopled talking about having good results with Coollabratory Liquid Ultra TIM being on their hot running Kaby Lake CPUs. I have got to say... WOW.
I've been running AIDA64 for the last hour minutes or so and instead of shooting up to 80°C+ right away I'm still sitting at 56°C on the hottest core. My CPU fans would obviously hit 100% before and now they aren't coming anywhere close to that. So lower fan speeds and temp differences of close to 25°C. This is absolutely insane. For the record, ambient temps in the room are always a steady 70°F or ~21°C.
 
The liquid metal TIM made a huge difference but it's not without its faults. It's a pain in the ass to apply and I got some on my my plastic/vinyl place mat and it must have had some sort of weird chemical reaction because it looks like it left a burn on the mat. Be really careful not to get this stuff on anything. BTW, it IS conductive so be extremely careful not to get it on any contacts of your MOBO or CPU. I only used the stuff between the IHS and the die. I did not use any between the heatsink and the IHS because you need to scuff up both surfaces for it to stick properly to those surfaces. I used the Noctua NT-H1 TIM for use between the Noctua heatsink and the IHS.
 
My recommendation if you're going to try it: I used tape around the PCB and left the die exposed. I was able to brush on the thermal compound without having to worry about any of it touching the PCB. I then took this same tape and used it on the underside of the IHS to apply a thin layer there. Dead center, exactly the same size and shape as the die. I used regular scotch tape that was pretty hard to work with being thin and sticky and all. It might be better to use the tape to get the perfect size and shape of the die and then apply the tape to a piece of construction paper and cut a die sized hole out of the paper. That way you don't have to deal with anything sticky.
 
TL:DR. I had a completely opposite experience w/ my delid experience as Linus did in this video and this video. Although unlike Linus' liquid metal vid, I applied the TIM to the die and not the top of the IHS.
 

 
This build was heavily inspired by this LTT review as you can see :P

https://pcpartpicker.com/b/MgYrxr
 
Conclusion: Worth the risk. As I said before, I was extremely disappointed with the delidding results prior to using the liquid metal TIM. At that point it was absolutely not worth voiding the warranty. However, I really couldn't have asked for a better final result. I've heard that Thermal Grizzly makes a product that's even better than what I used but I still can't fathom better results than what I got. I'll keep my fingers crossed that I won't run into issues down the line but for now I'm very happy. I was getting pretty unacceptable temps at very reasonable voltages before and now, well, you can see for yourself. This gives me a lot more headroom to overclock in my little ITX case, and/or gives me peace of mind that I'm not going to slowly kill my CPU with heat.

Have Luke do some reviews with his shirt off. 

Have Luke do some reviews with his shirt off. 

I'm so glad I'm not the only one. Lol

i could not agree more lol

Have Luke do some reviews with his shirt off. 

Nothing had a problem passing after an hour until Realbench. Realbench bluescreened on me.
 
I added a hair to the vcore in the UEFI (.005) and it passed the benchmark for an hour. I don't actually see a difference in the vcore in HWmonitor though. I wanted to tax the GPU too because I wanted to see what would happen to the CPU temps once a bunch of heat got dumped into the case.

Too many people have said this, but I heard that he stated that he would not.  Oh well.  You can lead a horse to water, but you can't...
 
@MageTank

I can see maybe on one hand he doesn't want to be seen as being responsible for a bunch of people ruining their processors. On the other hand I have a huge problem with him closing the book on a topic with the final word being a huge bit of misinformation. 
 
It makes me question other things from LTT and frankly it isn't the first time I've had contradictory results to their findings. E.G. My Evolv ITX. Linus: "This case has amazing airflow." I love the case but it does NOT have amazing airflow. The front and top are choked off with tiny slits/holes for air to come thru or blow out.