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About aduman

  • Title
    Your friendly neighbourhood!

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Interests
    PCs, all kinds of tech, books, movies, basketball, collecting statues/model cars etc.

    Also Simracing and sometimes FSX. Not Always though. :D (Anyone got that?)


  • CPU
    i7 2600k oc'ed @4.6 Ghz
  • Motherboard
    Asus Maximus V Formula
  • RAM
    16GB Kingston HyperX
  • GPU
    EVGA GTX 780 Ti Classified
  • Case
    Phanteks Enthoo Luxe
  • Storage
    256GB Samsung 840 Pro SSD, 2TB Seagate HDD, 1TB WD Black HDD
  • PSU
    EVGA Supernova P2 1000W
  • Display(s)
    Asus VG278H
  • Cooling
    Dark Rock Pro 3, Noiseblocker e-Loops
  • Keyboard
    Razer Blackwidow Ultimate
  • Mouse
    Steelseries Sensei, Razer Deathadder Black Edition, Logitech G502
  • Sound
    Sennheiser HD598, Logitech Z-something 5.1. Onboard sound card. Supreme FX(Realtek ALC898) surprisingly good!
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 x64

Recent Profile Visitors

1,604 profile views
  1. I guess I can take the liquid cooled Vega as a reference point since that and the Nitro perform almost the same. Seems like it's faster than the 2070 so I'm thinking I'll keep my order and also get to enjoy freesync in the future.
  2. Alright, I'll take a look at that. I'll be getting a freesync monitor so kinda leaning towards Vega atm. Thanks for the help!
  3. They indeed are. Although I'd undervolt the Vega if I'd go that route. Any ideas on how much faster the 2070 Armor would be compared to an undervolted OCed 64 Nitro?
  4. Hi everyone! I ordered a Vega 64 Nitro for 499€ a couple days ago which also comes with AMDs raise the game bundle (Worth around 60€.). The 2070s came out today and it occurred to me that I can also get the MSI Armor 2070 for 519€ in Germany. I'm planning to get a freesync monitor in the future, not feeling like paying the gsync tax. Should I cancel the Vega order and get a 2070? Appreciate the help, thanks!
  5. I tried them in a Hi-Fi audio store. Don't really know what type of amp was used or if they were being amped at all. I believe there are several versions of 990s. If you don't have an amp get the 80 ohms version. You won't be unleashing their full potential without an amp if you go higher than that. IMO an amp still makes a difference even on the 598s which are very efficient cans. Like I said you can't go wrong with either of these.
  6. @anothertom The stuff arrived today. The noise is gone it's absolutely crystal clear now! Thanks a lot for your help.
  7. I've tried both. 990s are definitely more 'fun' and bassier so lows are more pronounced on these. 598 has the better soundstage, one of the best even among mid-fi cans, more neutral and also the instrument separation is better on these. Vocals also feel livelier-more in your face with 598s. 990s were a bit clampy to me but they probably get better in time. You can't go wrong with either of them. Sorry for the usage of audiophile terms but that's the best way I can describe how they sound.
  8. Alright then. I'll get the Palmer and those cables. Thank you very much for all your help.
  9. Oh I thought those were mic cables and wouldn't work with the speakers, for some reason they are on different categories in the thomann site. I'd buy from Amazon but just wanted to get it all from thomann, they also ship pretty quick and offer great customer service. So it's decided then, I'll get the Palmer. Would those cables work with the lsr305s though? I was looking at these under speaker cables category but they're triple the price for some reason: https://m.thomann.de/gb/cordial_ctl_3_fm.htm?o=17&search=1498755792 There is also a warning there to not use these with active speakers. Which cable would be the right one? Thanks for your response. I realize I've been asking lots of questions so thanks again for being so helpful.
  10. @anothertom, after doing some research I have now two options and I need your opinion to decide which way to go to rid my system of noise: . A passive DI box (Palmer PAN04) with the required cables (damn XLR cables really add to the cost lol) - this costs around 100€. I was going to go with DBX DJDI but unfortunately that wasn't available on Thomann. . An iFi iDefender with iPower: http://ifi-audio.com/portfolio-view/accessory-idefender3-0/ http://ifi-audio.com/portfolio-view/accessory-ipower/ Costs the same in total. I would really appreciate your input, thank you in advance.
  11. Again, many thanks for your help. Some people would have ridiculed me for asking a question of that nature but your response was indeed very kind. I'll definitely give that a thorough read, still trying to wrap my head around all the terms. I'll get a DI box and report back here with the results. Have a good one! Edit: After reading that 600 ohms now sound like a measly number lol thanks for sharing it.
  12. Thanks for your help, I really appreciate it. I also stumbled upon those DI box thingies when I was reading through other threads. Would they degrade or color the SQ in any way? They also have pretty high resistance numbers (600 ohms on most) on the ins and outs. Is that a bad thing? lol As for the usb cables, I don't think I can route them any differently. The front usb header cable is just above the psu but there is no other way it can be routed. Good suggestion though, thanks.
  13. Wait a minute.. When I connect the speakers to the phone and run a game like you wanted me to try before, there is actually the same noise but it is way quieter than before. I just expected the same level of noise and didn't focus properly before. What does this mean?
  14. That's what I've been thinking too. I connected the speakers to the phone, launched a game and no noise or any kind of interference came out of the speakers. I can't fulfill your second request though as I don't have the cables for that, sorry. Is there a way to 'clean' the signal without getting something like a scarlett 2i2? Budget is a bit tight atm.
  15. Nope, I tried to isolate that cable by locating it on top of the desk. The psu cable is under the desk, at ground level.