Altecice

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About Altecice

  • Title
    The Network & Server Guy.

System

  • CPU
    Intel I7-6850K @ 4.4Ghz (1.35v)
  • Motherboard
    MSI X99A Gaming Pro Carbon
  • RAM
    Corsair Vengence LPX 32GB DDR4 @ 3200Mhz
  • GPU
    x2 MSI GTX 980TI (+110 Core, 450Mem)
  • Case
    In Win S-Frame (Number 263/500)
  • Storage
    Samsung 950 Pro M.2 (512GB), Samsung 950 Evo (1TB)
  • PSU
    EVGA Supernova G2 1000W 80+ Gold
  • Display(s)
    Acer Predator X34A (100Hz)
  • Cooling
    XSPC D5 Photon Res, D5 Vario Pump, 360 EKWB RAD, x3 SP120's, 1/2 OD Piping, Compression Fittings
  • Keyboard
    Corsair K70 (Red switches)
  • Mouse
    Razer Deathadder Chroma
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Above & Beyond

Recent Profile Visitors

1,944 profile views
  1. You forgot one, Xencenter I use a load of them for work (ESXi,Hyper-V and Xencenter). I just recently moved from ESXi to Hyper-V for my home server.
  2. Was your last system Intel? If you have made massive changes to the system hardware your old (current) install of Windows will have the wrong drivers and it will fail to boot. Quickest way to fix it would be to backup your items via another PC and then reinstall. Windows 8 onwards are more tolerant to system changes but 7 is not so good at it.
  3. What is wrong with the drive?
  4. Now that you have taken the heatsink off the CPU you have no choice. You need to clean off and replace the thermal compound. What you're describing is perfectly normal and correct on a laptop CPU as they are missing the IHS that desktop CPU's have to allow them to distribute the heat more efficiently, so need the extra thermal compound to act as the TIM or buffer for the gap between the CPU and the heatsink.
  5. If its worth the $49 to you then go for it. I myself store anything "important" on my RAID10 server so I have no need for my desktop to be redundant.
  6. No point I moved from a 4790k @ 4.8Ghz to a 6850k (more PCI lanes than 6800). Sitting at a stable 4.4Ghz and its as quick per core as a 6700k, just more of them... I notice no difference. DDR4 is just another benchmark pleaser its not any quicker for real world uses.
  7. Ok well this thread has gotten out of hand.... If you have changed the order of the cables then yes this will be the cause of your broken array. (Mobo expect Drive 1 to be in SATA port X) etc. You can attempt to fix it by trying to get the correct order again. What does Intel RST say about your RAID? To check if your RAID0 is trimming within windows use this command from a CMD: fsutil behavior query DisableDeleteNotify You are wanting the result to = 0, if you get 1 then you DONT have trim enabled.
  8. look in your motherboard manual. It will tell you what 5 beeps mean.
  9. As people are saying, you would only have 1TB usable per hard drive for a total of 2TB. Not sure what the person above is talking about when he says not to use your on board raid controller (bios raid). Thats exactly what you want to do. To RAID-0 you really need two of the same SSD/HDD's to get maximum performance gains but half reliability (twice the chance of breaking).
  10. Reinstalling is the simplest option.
  11. The update is a gradual release update. Meaning they slowly push the update out in batches to stop some unforeseen bug from wiping out the whole Windows user base. You can download it manually here if you want it now :https://www.microsoft.com/en-gb/software-download/windows10
  12. Driver incompatibility.
  13. You want the OOBE (Out Of Box Experience). This is what big OEM's like DELL,HP will do for home use computers. https://msdn.microsoft.com/en-gb/windows/hardware/commercialize/manufacture/desktop/boot-windows-to-audit-mode-or-oobe
  14. 99% of the time this will work perfectly fine... But you do get the odd time it fails and wont boot with the new motherboard and in that case the only option you have is to start fresh (reinstall Windows).
  15. Unplug your computer from the wall. Find the battery on your motherboard and remove it (size of a coin). Wait 30 seconds. Put battery back in. This will reset your CMOS (BIOS settings) to default and turn that feature off, enabling you to boot. Note: If you have a clear CMOS button on your motherboard you can push that as well, it will do the same thing.