hihihi8

Hi all, I've been suffering from constant noises on my speakers ever since getting them. It's a constant bzzz ---- bzzz ---- bzzz ---- bzzz --- bzzz --- bzzz --- bzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz --- bzzz...... that repeats over and over even when my PC is off. Other times, it's a steady hum that changes depending on where I place my mouse (e.g. moving it over links and animated elements will increase the volume of the noise). Doing 3D stuff/GPU utilization also causes a scratching noise (e.g. orbit/panning in SolidWorks) Here's the setup: Source 1: PC via optical spdif/toslink to a S

Just an unstable overclock. It doesn't need to overheat to crash.

ugh i was thinking about that when i rebuilt the GPUs; it's quite easy tbh, but i guess i was just too lazy to make yet another trip to homedepot for red paint. I also dont know how i would feel about actually having red logos. On one hand, it would match the overall color scheme better, but on the other hand it would become less variegated and "lively," sorta turning into one big red blob. Right now i see the green as a little focal point of interest, popping out amidst a red backdrop.

Those are some massive reservoirs. I have one that size in my current rig and it just drinks down coolant like a german during Oktoberfest. In comparison my most recent build for my mom took less than a litre which really surprised me lol. Also interested in how you're planning on making the desk thinner, as I've had a few plans for a desk build myself where I basically switch over to blade-server components (EK server blocks and server PSUs plus a distro panel as my res). GLHF! As a side note, im pretty jelly of that band saw you got there. I've been looking for a similar or large

My mom loved the RGB puke option on the LED strip, and I had to forcibly forbid her from ever using that by confiscating the remote... sighs lol

The parts in this build come from what used to be my main rig, named Pinky. Then I upgraded and retired it. Recently I've thrown it back together in a new case, with a new loop. I have a ton of watercooling parts that have just been lying around unused, so I figured I might as well put it all to use The case is an InWin S-Frame that I recently acquired after a long search, just for collection purposes. #190/500 Free Cell is what she usually plays. The GPUs are custom modded to be watercoole

Nope, just 24 pins start to finish. It seems if I unplug the PSU, flick the switch a few times, then plug it back in, theres a much better chance of it actually starting up, almost as if some capacitor needs to drain and recharge properly.

Ive been making modular cables for a while now so i just took 2 atx power supply pins, crimped them at either ends of a 18awg lead, and plugged them in. Much more secure than the paperclip so thats not the issue.

I was trying to test some wires I made in addition to filling a loop with my old Corsair RM1000 (was just fine last winter when it was still in my system), and the thing doesnt seem to want to start on a consistent basis. It works fine when in a system, but using the old jumper method, it only starts seldomly. A. There is a load on it, ive got a couple of fans running on it B. It does the same thing regardless of whether i jump the pins at the end of the 24pin or at the modular interface directly on the psu C. The jumper is making proper electrical contact

wireless internet. if you have decent wifi and dont want to connect an cable for internet, i'd say get wifi. If you dont have wifi on your mobo you can always get a wifi expansion card later on.

ugh... at least now my SR-X has an older brother to play with.

my first notable upgrade was moving from a 750ti to a 980ti, then a second for SLI

While i would resort to acetone too, it would likely damage the plastic substrate in the process. Maybe try something like goof off (also acetone-based i believe, but less harsh), or dilute the acetone to make it gentler.

is probably ded, rip

After months of hunting, I have found and acquired one.