W-L

Moderator
  • Content count

    19,462
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

  • check
    Agree 1114
  • info_outline
    Informative 553
  • tag_faces
    Funny 37
  • thumb_up
    Thumbs Up 697
  • thumb_up
    Likes (Old) 2245

Awards


System

  • CPU
    Intel 4790K @ 4.8GHz
  • Motherboard
    Asus Z97-Pro
  • RAM
    16GB Kingston Fury 1866MHz
  • GPU
    Gigabyte G1 GTX 970 OC'ed
  • Case
    Modified Corsair Obsidian 650D
  • Storage
    120GB Samsung 840 Pro & 3TB Seagate Barracuda
  • PSU
    Corsair AX760
  • Display(s)
    Dual Dell P2311H
  • Cooling
    Custom Watercooling Loop
  • Keyboard
    Logitech G15
  • Mouse
    Corsair M60

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling

Recent Profile Visitors

8,623 profile views
  1. Yes, and theoretically it is completely safe even in while in operation as it relies on induction from the current flow as long as you don't obviously touch any exposed conductors.
  2. Transformers hold no charge or energy they are just large coils of wire and a ferrite core, the only things that hold charge are capacitors.
  3. It will most likely stick, soapy water is usually the best option, why don't you want to use it? The soap can just be flushed after the bending without any residue being left in place.
  4. -Moved to Audio section-
  5. Both are alright as a fan but not spectacular in terms of performance. They are a airflow optized fan, but as for which one to get that is really up to you, I think the masterpro should be a little better. I have seen seen some other odd ball fans out there that seem to be decent that use the RGB header system but they may be hard to obtain.
  6. Your best option would be to fabricate an aluminum plate to bolt onto the extruded channel and have threaded holes for the thumb screws of bolts that hold the GPU in place.
  7. The only fans that are capable of hooking up to a motherboard currently for RGB syncing/control, is the Akasa fan as mentioned and Cooler master's Masterpro. Others require a dedicated controller or use their own software and cannot sync everything with the motherboard RGB header.
  8. The res and fluid can be changed but make sure there is no other metals in the new res. As said blocks and rads cannot be swapped for other metals they must all be aluminum, EKWB have mentioned they will come out with options such as Al rads later on.
  9. That looks alright but I would recommend a DDC pump at the least.
  10. I'm pretty sure they don't use a clear in terms of productions speed and cost and just use a straight satin or semigloss finish paint.
  11. Most manufacture's powder coat their cases theses days for ease of production but using white automotive paint would be best, to get a result similar to that you will want to look for a satin or semigloss type paint, something with some luster but not high gloss for sure.
  12. As said lower temp plastics like PLA may soften, ABS should be alright as RAM only get a little warm. There are metal heatsink or covers you can get for RAM which are for watercooling but you can just have the plates on the RAM.
  13. For painting the case it would be best advised to take it apart to paint to properly apply nice even coats and avoid overspray especially since your painting the interior where that will occur. For paint options automotive spray paints would be best especially for white as they will be brighter and more vibrant. If you don't want it to be glossy a stain or matte paint would be best, but another option is to apply that as a clear top coat to protect the paint.
  14. Your best option would be to design a mounting system and have a sheet of glass custom cut drill and then sent to be tempered. It will not be cheap though for the glass just to mention that now.