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About W-L

  • Title
    Technology = Lifeblood


  • CPU
    Intel 4790K @ 4.8GHz
  • Motherboard
    Asus Z97-Pro
  • RAM
    16GB Kingston Fury 1866MHz
  • GPU
    Gigabyte G1 GTX 970 OC'ed
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    Modified Corsair Obsidian 650D
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    120GB Samsung 840 Pro & 3TB Seagate Barracuda
  • PSU
    Corsair AX760
  • Display(s)
    Dual Dell P2311H
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    Custom Watercooling Loop
  • Keyboard
    Logitech G15
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    Corsair M60

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  1. Yeah that build wouldn't be cause of worry for overloading the unit and they should also have over current protection if you do go over the specified limit and provide some kind of warning either with an indicator light or audible alarm usually.
  2. If they are the 4 pin PWM version you just need something capable of PWM control. Your motherboard should be able to do this with the BIOS or using their own software.
  3. Sounds like the AVR was faulty in the first place unless your system uses the full 500W of load it wouldn't cause that. Try to RMA it or see if you get get a good quality unit.
  4. Hard to say but an AVR can get warm since it uses coiled winding and switches between them, if it's constantly clicking try a different socket in the home to see if it makes a difference. Also what do you mean by leaking they don't contain any oil or fluid inside of them.
  5. It doesn't need to be a large panel a bracket like the PCI-E or small part that is pontes will do. It's going to be hard to match it without going directly to a place.
  6. Bring a small portion of the case like a small panel or bracket to an automotive store you can get paint touch up kits and try to match the paint as close as possible.
  7. It would have to do with the AVR itself, do you experience flucuating voltages in your area, it may be just the swithing inside of the unit.
  8. Both are good reputable brands, as long as the block is compatible with your specific model of card then you really won't see a huge difference between the two.
  9. Yes that splitter take power from the PSU and only has a PWM and RPM signal from the motherboard itself so it doesn't draw any power from it. This makes it however only good for 4 Pin PWM control as 3 pin DC voltage control fans on that splitter will only run full speed.
  10. Pretty sure they are just bolted, same as the glass panels wouldn't make sense to add more work than what is already and existing solution if it works for both. Other than seeing if you can get a hold on a unit someone else has or seeing if Antec has spare glass on hand they are willing to part with I don't think you'll be able to easily get the glass version.
  11. It looks to be the same method used for the glass panels where they bolt through the metal or glass and into a backing plate. http://www.anandtech.com/show/9318/antec-reveals-the-signature-s10-premium-tower-case
  12. As long as you are able to take off the hinges from the original panel and use a glass section as a replacement without any issues with the extra thickness it should be doable. One concern is if you are getting this done it will not be cheap as it will have to have custom glass if you are looking at getting tempered glass, it will need to be cut and drilled for the mounting for the hinges and then tempered.
  13. Here I have a guide that goes over all of this under General Painting which will answer most of those questions.
  14. You would be best off getting silence optimized fans and red LED strip lighting for the case as LED fans don't provide even case lighting unless your wanting it just for the glow effect behind the mesh. Also if you haven't tried, vary the speed of the fans and see if they are acceptable when turned down to ideal speeds.
  15. @nicolomas Please refrain from making multiple topics in different sections. -Multiple Topics Merged-