DCWalt

I just came to the conclusion that I put almost nothing inside my computer anymore. Plus, i've been in situations where i had to stuff a PC into a suitcase and hop on a plane. Would be nice to be able to do that easily

Yeah there's a reason my block list on here is pretty big , lotta guys convinced they know more than I and just looking for some toxic retorts to.... idk put this girl in her place i guess? lol

yes, that one
 
there's not a lot of info in it regarding this problem. he just says he turns off auto power off.

Love Linus and everything but this has to be the most unhelpful tech forum I know of... 

Love Linus and everything but this has to be the most unhelpful tech forum I know of... 

How? Does it bake they key into the install disc?

Thank you for you help. I actually ended up ordering the Yamaha A-S501. It seems to be a rather beefy amp and it has a switch for selecting between low and high impedance. I'm going to crack open the speakers for the first time in a decade and see how I wired the tweeters in... I hate fixing things my teenage self did 

Is the sub and the front channels running off the same speaker output in parallel? If so it's likely that the subs and the front channel speakers are putting too low an impedance on the amp. For example if your amp is rated for 50 watts per channel @ 8ohms and you have 2 8 ohm speakers in parallel connected to the output you will end up with a 4ohm load on the terminal that the amp may not be designed to handle. I assume those subs are 4ohms (because most subs are) and if you happen to have 4-6 ohms in parallel with those subs you'll end up with a pretty low impedance probably around 2 ohms. Most amps can run 2 ohm speakers unless they're car audio amps as under 4 ohms is rare in home audio. Same thing goes for to high an impedance. If the impedance gets too high the amp must deliver more current to properly drive the speakers and it will put more stress on the amps IC or transistors causing them to die sooner.

Ok so with all the information I have right now it seems that the subs might be 4 ohms each and running in parallel down to 2 ohms. If you have a 2 ohm load in parallel with an 8 ohm load your amp will now see a very low 1.6 ohm load. I know for a fact no 35$ amp can handle a 1.6 ohm load. So what's likely happening is your overloading the outputs with a low impedance. If you wanna fix this you can try wiring up the subs in series into an 8 ohm load and then when you run them in parallel with the front speakers the amp will be running a 4 ohm load that the amp will likely be much happier with. Also I doubt there's anything wrong with the crossover but it doesn't hurt to check. Since it's only been about 10 years since you built that I doubt the capacitors in the crossover have been damaged unless you put too much power through them. Just give them a quick visual check to see if there's any bulging.

Yes that would fix the problem. From what I can tell the issue is that you're running a too low of an impedance on your amplifier. If you remove the 2 ohm sub from the equation you'll be fine as is but you won't have a sub for any real bass. If you buy an amp that has a subwoofer pre out and you buy a powered sub as long as your speakers are still 8 ohms and the new amp can easily handle that you should have no problems. So just make sure that wherever speakers you plug into the new amp are between 4 and 8 ohms and don't add any more speakers off the back. Since you'll have a powered sub you can just use the sub out to run a powered sub.

open your case and measure your usable space from the inside. Don't just rely on the external dimensions. You'll have drive cages and wires to contend with on the inside. any card you get is going to be at least dual slot (stay away from triple slot. it's a waist of space in your case.) so make sure your case has enough PCI brackets on the back. From the pictures I found it looks like you should be fine.
 
In terms of the card, most manufacturers list the card length. try to leave yourself a little room though. If, for instance, you only have 12 inches of usable space in your case then don't get a 12 inch card if you can avoid it. you could run into clearance issues. Leave yourself an inch or two of wiggle room.
 
Remember you'll need space to run power as well. Depending on the card you get you may need anywhere from a single 6 pin to dual 8 pin. it's probably not going to be a problem, just something to keep in mind.
 
So chose the card you want, measure the inside of your case, get a version of that card that leaves you some wiggle room and get a power supply that can handle it.
 
If you need anymore help feel free to PM me.

yes, why wouldn't you be able to? you could get a 1080 or a Titian if you had the money. nothing is stopping you from putting any graphics card you want in that computer. just make sure you get a power supply big enough to handle it. A 650 Watt PSU will push almost any card you want. just make sure it's single rail.
 
I'm running the same CPU you are and I have dual 970s. You might be a little bottle necked but that's unavoidable unless you just build a whole new PC. Buy the best card you can afford and that thing will be a great little computer. Just carry the card over into your next PC when you upgrade.

I was thinking about Antec VP-450 power supply I recommended to you earlier and realized it was a terrible recommendation... If you do pick up a new Power Supply read the description carefully and make sure It's a "single rail" power supply. Without going into to much technical detail it basically means the PSU can deliver it's full load where you need it to go. I'm currently being screwed over by a dual rail PSU and I accidentally recommended one to you too.
 
Get something somewhere in the vicinity of 500 or 600 watts. Any more than that and you're wasting both power and money on that computer. 600 Watts would run a GTX 1080 so it'll be more than enough for any lower level cards.
 
And make sure to get a good brand. Corsair, EVGA, Seasonic and Silverstone should all be fine. Stay away from Thermaltake, Rosewill and any off brand units unless you want a dead PSU, a dead computer or a house fire.

not particularly helpful considering I don't have the pro or the money to buy it.

basic physics should tell you it does not work. You dont make things cool by adding water unless you are using evaporative cooling; which this does not. Water cooling works by transferring heat to a radiator that has a larger surface are than you could get by placing a heatsink directly to the heat source. This device does not place any heat transferring material to the heat source so it is literally pumping water around in circles with no cooling effect whatsoever.

So I was poking around the web last night. My laptop has a cooling problem every now and then so I was looking at laptop cooling pads and out of shear curiosity I decided to see if someone had attempted to make a liquid cooled one... Well... I found this... The "Cool Breeze Liquid Cooling Pad".
 
I was interested. Not the kind of interested that would lead me to pay nearly $80 but the kind of interested you get when you can smell snake oil flooding the room. I did some poking around. At first I assumed the brand was "Cool Breeze" but all that yielded was a refrigeration company and a rapper. After a closer look at the Amazon page I realized the company was actually "PC Treasures"; an OEM company that distributes software along with some phone and tablet accessories. However, even their own website doesn't have this thing on it. I decided to pop on over to google images to see if anyone had an actual picture of thing instead of just the little marketing material I had found. No pictures of customers holding it but I did find something else. something much, much better.
 
I found a diagram of it's internal workings and I must say, it's kept me giggling for the better part of an hour.
 

 
So, Apparently the way this thing works is you place your laptop on it, it circulates water underneath and blows the air from the radiator back onto your laptop...
 
I never expected a liquid cooled laptop pad to work very well but I guess I did expect at least a certain amount of logic to be applied when designing it. You know, like, maybe the surface of the pad is a water block that your laptop touches and the radiator is in the back blowing the hot air away from your computer. But instead it looks like they tried to use the radiator as the water block while also using it as a radiator at the same time and are just exhausting the air (presumably hot air but probably not considering the design) back into your laptop. Essentially what you get for $80 is a regular old, $10 laptop cooler that someone made out of aluminum and slapped on a pump and radiator that do nothing just to jack up the price.
 
So what do you guys think? Am I missing something or is this thing as hilarious as I think it is?

So I was poking around the web last night. My laptop has a cooling problem every now and then so I was looking at laptop cooling pads and out of shear curiosity I decided to see if someone had attempted to make a liquid cooled one... Well... I found this... The "Cool Breeze Liquid Cooling Pad".
 
I was interested. Not the kind of interested that would lead me to pay nearly $80 but the kind of interested you get when you can smell snake oil flooding the room. I did some poking around. At first I assumed the brand was "Cool Breeze" but all that yielded was a refrigeration company and a rapper. After a closer look at the Amazon page I realized the company was actually "PC Treasures"; an OEM company that distributes software along with some phone and tablet accessories. However, even their own website doesn't have this thing on it. I decided to pop on over to google images to see if anyone had an actual picture of thing instead of just the little marketing material I had found. No pictures of customers holding it but I did find something else. something much, much better.
 
I found a diagram of it's internal workings and I must say, it's kept me giggling for the better part of an hour.
 

 
So, Apparently the way this thing works is you place your laptop on it, it circulates water underneath and blows the air from the radiator back onto your laptop...
 
I never expected a liquid cooled laptop pad to work very well but I guess I did expect at least a certain amount of logic to be applied when designing it. You know, like, maybe the surface of the pad is a water block that your laptop touches and the radiator is in the back blowing the hot air away from your computer. But instead it looks like they tried to use the radiator as the water block while also using it as a radiator at the same time and are just exhausting the air (presumably hot air but probably not considering the design) back into your laptop. Essentially what you get for $80 is a regular old, $10 laptop cooler that someone made out of aluminum and slapped on a pump and radiator that do nothing just to jack up the price.
 
So what do you guys think? Am I missing something or is this thing as hilarious as I think it is?

I just read the Amazon reviews. One guy apparently got two of them and they both leaked. Icing on the cake really...

I'm a film maker and a gamer. I'm moving to Portugal for about three years and will need a good computer while I'm there. I usually build all my computers but unfortunately it would be too expensive to ship a tower there or back so i'm looking into laptops for pretty much the first time.
 
The one that's highest on my list is the Razer Blade Stealth coupled with the Razer Core. I have an ASUS GTX 970Strix I can put in it. I figure i don't necessarily need that much power when i'm away from my desk. This way I have a nice low power laptop on the plane and while I'm in the field and something beefier while i'm at my desk editing or gaming.
 
Any other suggestions?

I got mine because i love ASUS as a brand. But i guess you're right, it was wrong of me to assume a company would support the functionality of there own product.

I got mine because i love ASUS as a brand. But i guess you're right, it was wrong of me to assume a company would support the functionality of there own product.