tornados2111

Correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't that only work on either one or the other computer, not both at once.
 
In my experience, the best results come from an ethernet switch
 
http://www.scan.co.uk/products/5-port-d-link-gb-easy-desktop-gigabit-10-1000-switch-2000-mbps-full-duplex

Do not buy a splitter, i bought one too and the output ports don't work at the same time. buy a switch instead like tomlambert01 says

no, the current in an ethernet cable is way to low for any serious interference that you would notice

Probably is due to the fact that the other PC is hogging your connection when its active over wifi.
What wifi is it that you have?   B, G, N etc?
are you a long way from the wifi point.  how many walls?
 
You will allways be better of with a cable.  You can get hold of 30m of cable quite cheeply if you know where to look    
IE http://www.amazon.co.uk/30m-Professional-Network-Cable-Black/dp/B002RSTXBK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1409688881&sr=8-4&keywords=cat5e+30m

Ah yes sorry, I realise what you meant by your previous post now. Ok, I'll just go with the g3220 and the h81 board. Thanks very much for your help

That's why I picked the G3220 instead of the G3258. Because the G3258 is Haswell Refresh you need a H97/Z97 mainboard, which is quite more expensive. But if you choose to still go with it I'd recommend this maiboard: http://www.aria.co.uk/Products/Components/Motherboards/Intel+Socket/Socket+1150+-+Intel+Z97/Gigabyte+Z97P-D3+Intel+Z97+%28Socket+1150%29+DDR3+ATX+Motherboard+?productId=60524
But as you can see it costs much more than the H81 board. Sure you can now overclock the G3258, too, but is it worth it? I think you would be better of getting the G3220 and the H81 board.
This Crucial RAM is totally fine, you can buy it.

He doesn't really need anything special. Really it's just for browsing the web and playing a couple of not-at-all demanding games
 
 
Thanks for the suggestions, gonna check that out
 
 
 
Thanks everyone for the suggestions so far

Ah looks better already  . But I just want to mention that this only makes sense with a new GPU.

Thanks for correcting my forgetfulness, I probably shouldn't try multi-tasking a desk job and posting on here. This is the set up I was supposed to be quoting, but my mind slipped off into office land.  
 
PCPartPicker part list: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/pkfpmG Price breakdown by merchant: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/pkfpmG/by_merchant/   CPU: Intel Pentium G3258 3.2GHz Dual-Core Processor  (£44.34 @ Aria PC)  Motherboard: MSI Z97 PC MATE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard  (£60.32 @ Ebuyer)  Memory: Kingston 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory  (£28.99 @ Amazon UK)  Total: £133.65 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-08-06 14:45 BST+0100     That way you have the unlocked CPU, a Z97 board (from a decent brand) and 4gig of RAM is ample.    And this is the voltage table for the OC's http://images.anandtech.com/doci/8232/G3258%20OC%20Results.png 

.

So an i3 wouldn't make any sense with that GPU. A low end Intel or AMD will do:
 
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Pentium G3220 3.0GHz Dual-Core Processor  ($59.97 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H81M-H Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard  ($49.38 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair XMS3 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory  ($34.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $144.34
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-08-06 08:59 EDT-0400
 
Anything better would really not make any sense with an old HDD and GPU.

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EDIT: So the link works now, altough only after manually apllying. And srsly where is there any overclockability? I'm sure you mean the anniversary edition Pentium G3258, because that's the only Pentium with an unlocked multiplier. For that you need a H97/Z97 mainboard though because there are no H91/B95 mainboards yet. And H97 board are not that cheap. And to use the multiplier you even need a Z97 board.

Native dpi is the dpi the sensor can output without the help of an mcu thus eliminating most of the other interpolated dpi's latency. Interpolated dpi steps are also not true dpi outputs,they are emulated. In almost every case it will give the highest malfunction speed.
An example is the g400 which sports the avago 3090 sensor.
This sensor has a native dpi of 800 and 3600,the rest are interpolated.
At 800 dpi the g400 has the highest malfunction speed and the best responsiveness.
Thankfully the latest sensors such as the 3310 and 3366 have a lot of native dpi steps ( the 3310 has native dpi's in increments of 50 and the 3366 is advertised having all of it's dpi steps native)

Just disable acceleration in windows and leave the cursor speed in the middle then choose the DPI your most comfortable gaming with.

Not at all really just get a good mouse with a decent sensor that had what you need and it'll do what you ask of it.

When you play fps games, if you need to make a sudden turn you will do so by moving the mouse very fast.
Mouse sensors have a certain max speed before their tracking malfunctions. The behavior above the speed is different from sensor to sensor ,some stop others throw the cursor around and don't follow your swipe.If ,while moving the mouse, you cross that "malfunction speed" your aim will go haywire thus preventing you from making fast,consistent turns or moving the cursor quickly to use a spell in rpg's. This is more concerning if you have a low sensitivity.
This is what differentiates cheap sensors from high end ones the most.
That is what the enotus mouse tester program shows at m/s velocity.
Sensor acceleration nowadays is high thus it shouldn't concern you.
When buying a mouse, you should consider it as it is quickly becoming the benchmark of sensor performance.
Hope i covered all your inquiries

Overclock them AND run F@H until the heat they create is second only to the sun. Throw your enemies into the inferno's heart and roast marshmallows to celebrate. This can only end well  

The only stupid question is a question you don't ask.
Unless it is really stupid, in which case....

@shayned1997 @Volbet @Chaosbadger
 
Thanks sooo much guys, seriously your comments are saving me a fortune. When I get the change I will try my graphics card in my other slot (I think I have one) and I'll try reinstalling windows. I see that my shallow understanding isn't necessarily correct! Whenever I get the chance I'll try my gpu in another system too. Thanks again guys, I'll let you know how it goes

You should be running at 75Hz

No problem! I hope this solves your issues!

Not really. However you could try removing one of the RAM sticks and using the system for a while to check if there will be any problems.

Can you please be more specific which GPU and which monitors you have.

Ok, to avoid any active converters I would connect the 2nd monitor via a passive DVI-I to VGA adapter or cable and connect the LCD via a HDMI-DVI cable/adapter or DP-DVI cable/adapter
 
 
GPU > DVI-I > Adapter/Cable > VGA > HP Monitor
 
AND
 
GPU > HDMI > Adapter/Cable > DVI > Hanns G
or
GPU> DP > Adapter/Cable > DVI > Hanns G

For all intents and purposes, you cannot convert HDMI to VGA. HDMI is a digital standard, VGA is analogue. In order to convert you would need an active (powered) signal converter, which are both expensive and sub-optimal generally.

Like MrSuperb says, avoid active converters and use the DVI-I (interlaced analogue and digital) to connect your VGA monitor. If you ask me, all GPU outputs should be DVI-I.