Or Aviram

@GuiltySpark_ @An0maly_76 Thank you so much for your help!
 
The thermal paste application in the post was purposefully very small because I thought maybe the problem is that I was putting on too much...from the replies I see that I over exaggerated.
I did another application, a thick X shape like stated in the article, and it managed to reduce temperatures to about 62 idle. It's still too high to be useable, but it's a little closer to how it was before this story.
 
I ended up ordering a new cooler, this time an air cooler, although the AiO did serve me well for a really long time. It's good to know it even served me more than it usually does, so my problem wasn't neglect, but just age.
 
Either way, I assume a new cooler will fix this

I have an H80i that's half the age and I get the same thing because air is getting stuck in the pump so there's no water moving.  I could hear the air glugging into the rad after moving it all around to work the air out of the pump.  I would also suggest replacement like the others have but you may be able to get away with trying to force the water back in the pump. I had to lay the pump flat and hold up the radiator before it kicked in.

That spot in pic 3 is quite likely a crack or pinhole in the rad. With similar temperatures to a car engine's coolant, if it can't maintain pressure, it may not be able to maintain temp. Probably wise to replace that rad. Also -- as someone else said, AIO pump issue. But I also am not sure one dab of thermal paste is quite enough, I had to use three to four lines across the lid of my 5900X. Generally, if you're not having to dab away small amounts around the edges as you tighten it down, you probably didn't use enough.
 
Unless you absolutely have to have AIO (and it's generally not necessary), I would switch to a Mugen 5 or something similar to work with your processor. Two years has got to be some kind of record for an AIO to run without problems.

Possible dead pump. I've worked with a number of early H100i's that died and that corrosion spot on the rad doesn't look good. Evaporation is a thing on an AIO that old as well. I'd be replacing that cooler That thermal paste application looks like far too little. Remember, there is no penalty with too much other than a potentially annoying cleanup. Too little, and that looks like too little, will cause issues like you're experiencing.  The conclusion in the article below specifically calls out LGA 2011, I suggest reading it.
https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Thermal-Paste-Application-Techniques-170/

Under the "Community Standards" section of this forum, resides this preposterous rule...
 
No advertising of any non LTT/LMG material
eBay/trading sites Referral links Personal websites or businesses Twitch/YouTube links are only allowed in user profile status updates  
I find this rule stupid.  There is a build log section of this forums, and not all people can afford new parts, so they link ebay sales for parts. I find this idiotic, this rule needs to be rid off! There should be 0 punishment for posting ebay links, its just plain stupid. It is not like this website is selling  PC components, the only thing sold is some sort of subscription to the website so there really is no "stealing" of "customers". This should be a forums where everything except pornography and toxicity is allowed. Please either update this rule if no longer in use or revise it staff.
 
@LinusTech @Slick @Windspeed36  @Whaler_69

let the wating game begin!

Oh, thank god. I was freaking out for you for a second. Everything seems fine then, I honestly don't see anything wrong, your fan placements look good, the only thing would probably be the paste. Now, go get a beast of gpu already and get gaming.

@Or Aviram Well it might be for you and some ! Not for me though! I would personally like not buy an unlocked or an extreme edition processor without having any past build or oc experience!
Hope you get it! Peace

And maybe 16BG of RAM instead of 8? I heard many people say you can live with 8, but I currently use 8 and I feel really limited, so I think 16 can be a major improvement... It is most likely just me, but maybe not.

If you can wait until the end of the month the new RX480 is being released, and will destory the r9380

I heard really good reviews about the Blue Snowball. It isn't the most professional microphone ever, but it is fine for the money. If you are not planning to do any professional work with it, it should be fine.

i didnt say i wansnt going to i mean i dont think i need a 4.2 ghz and a custom loop lol (jk)  

That's bullshit... You can overclock whenever you want, and building a PC, at any amount of experience you have, is great. What's so bad with overclocking your first PC?

probs gonna go for 8 and get 16 at a later date cuz i dont have the money atm

That is only advisable if you have the radiator as a top exhaust being fed cool air directly by that fan.  The reason why Linus (and many manufacturers) recommend radiators as intakes is because they work best when fed cool air.  If your case does not have good air throughput then if set up as exhausts they might only be getting fed heated air, and then they will under perform.
 
So usually that rear position is meant to pull away all the air heated by the Mobo components.
 
Simplest and most reliable cooling is a decent combination of both intake fans and exhaust fans.  Front and bottom (if available) as intake and rear and top (if available) as exhaust.  You want to promote air movement in one consistent direction through the case.  I generally put radiators as top exhausts, but also always have enough fans to keep a lot of air moving through the case. 

All the time I'll see people recommend PSUs based on efficiency. This, although fundamentally a good idea so that you don't end up with a stick and some chewing gum powering your system, shows that most do not understand what 80 PLUS efficiency implies. Let's get a couple myths out of the way:

- "A higher 80 PLUS rating correlates to better quality." Incorrect. Certain components in a PSU do need to be of a certain quality to achieve higher efficiency (typically MOSFETs and diodes), however, quality of soldering, certain capacitors, etc, can be forgone in achieving an exemplary 80 PLUS rating. Electrical performance can be ditched as well. I like to use the EVGA G1 as an example of this. It's made of above average componentry, performs lackingly, and achieves gold efficiency. Then there's the EVGA B2, which is constructed about as well, performs better electrically, and advertises 80 PLUS Bronze efficiency (it actually achieves 80 PLUS Silver efficiency but that standard has been given up by and large). The EVGA B2 is a better PSU than the G1, yet it wastes slightly more electricity. This will correlate to a marginally more expensive power bill (pennies on the dollar for most home users) but ensures you a better power supply for your money. If, however, you plan to run a very power-hungry system for several hours on end then a more efficient power supply can save a more noticeable amount of money, especially if used heavily during hours of the day where electricity is more expensive.
 
On another note: some brands will undersell their unit's rated wattage if it can achieve higher efficiency at lower loads, I.E. a brand may sell a 550W 80 PLUS Platinum rated unit that can actually output 600W+ but would have to be advertised at a lower efficiency rating if they were to sell it at that rated wattage.

- "Higher 80 PLUS efficiency keeps the PSU cooler." Not to any serious degree, but this is technically true. A less efficient PSU will waste more electricity and wasted electricity is turned into heat. This is not likely to have an appreciable impact on the temperature of your room or system however as your system doesn't really draw that much power, thus it's better to optimize your system's airflow before throwing an AX1500i in your system to minimize heat created by the power supply. Since PSUs exhaust heat anyways the temperature of your system's hardware will not be impacted to any noticeable degree. Different PSUs also handle cooling differently and 80 PLUS efficiency doesn't correlate to the size of the fan used or the heat-dissipation abilities of the unit.
 
- "Power supplies are most efficient at around 50% load." This is, by and large, untrue, and seems to be set in stone by many simply because the peak efficiency measured by Ecova's testing of just three load levels is at 50% always. Many manufacturers or reviewers test PSU efficiency at different loads and post charts online, if this matters to you, but many PSUs are more efficient at 60% load than 50% and many are more efficient towards 30%. Don't buy a PSU based on how efficient it will be with whatever hardware you have in it. Different topologies and different PSU platforms handle efficiency differently. This should be a non-issue and you should be looking at buying the best PSU you can get with your money.
 
- "If you have a 1000W PSU with an 80% efficiency then you are only going to be able to get 800W from your power supply." This is incorrect. If you have an 80% efficient 1000W PSU then, when putting it under enough load to max its output you are going to be drawing more power from the walls - not losing output from your power supply. In this instance, putting a 1000W PSU under max load with an 80% efficiency would mean you're drawing 1250 watts from the wall. Math goes as such:
                                                                                                X / Y= Z                  
                                                                                        1000W / .80 = 1250
                                                                                  1250W drawn from the wall

X represents the wattage you're using (say 350W with a Ryzen 7 3700X and RTX 2080 Super under 100% system load), Y represents the efficiency in decimals (an 85% efficient PSU would be .85), and Z represents your total system draw from the wall. For this calculation we're assuming that the PSU in question has exactly enough wattage to power the system at 100% load and is 87% efficient at 100% draw, making it an 80+ Gold efficient power supply.


So in our case with the 3700X and 2080 Super:
                                                                                               350 / .87
                                                                      = 402 watts drawn from your power outlet
 
Note, however, that efficiency is not consistent throughout the load of the power supply.

Power supplies are more and less efficient at different loads. They are also more efficient when connected to a more powerful grid, the 230V nominal, which you may use if you don't live in North America. Check that your PSU allows for operation under both voltages. Most modern ones switch operation automatically. Other, often older units, will have a hard switch at the back of the unit to switch to choose from either 115V or 230V (note, DO NOT SWITCH TO THE ONE THAT DOESN'T MATCH THE ELECTRICAL OUTPUT OF YOUR WALL OUTLET! This doesn't usually end well!). This graph demonstrates the efficiency curve of a 2011-era Corsair TX750 when plugged into a 115V AC versus being plugged into a 230V AC. Note the TX750 is an 80+ Bronze rated PSU.
                
                                      
 

If you live in the United States, for example, you are using a 110-120V (115 nominal) AC through a standard NEMA 5-15 socket. Your power supply may be more or less efficient than your manufacturer claims because they may advertise efficiency through a 230V AC, though standard 80 PLUS efficiency testing is done on a 115V AC. Note that these tests for efficiency are also done under very specific test environments and do not necessarily reflect real-world scenarios so you may achieve higher or lower efficiency than rated by the manufacturer.

And just to finish up let's go list the various 80 PLUS ratings and their efficiency at different power draws on a 115V and 230V AC as well as 230V AC redundant.
                                                                               
 
                                                                          
Note that Silver isn't really used anymore and the efficiency of a PSU that would achieve Silver certification would typically just be rounded up or down to Bronze or Gold. "230V internal redundant" refers to efficiency in a redundant scenario like in a data center. This guy from Dell explains it.
 
One last thing I want to make a little more hard-hitting here. 80 PLUS efficiency ratings were invented to save corporations and industrial services money in the long-term, not home users! A company with 1000 computers all consuming 100W for 10 hours a day will see a much greater benefit from having all 80 PLUS Titanium units in their systems than you likely would with your system. Don't spend tons of money trying to get a super efficient PSU when a PSU that's just as good, costs less, and achieves a tier lower 80 PLUS rating is drastically cheaper. 
 
Resources:
Ecova (formerly Ecos), the 80 PLUS certification founder (and located very near me in Portland!)
Wikipedia - There's more info here if you want to go down the Wikipedia rabbit hole
Plug Load Solutions - A list of all PSU companies and how many different PSUs they have that achieve Ecova's various 80 PLUS standards.

You clearly don't know how efficient I am.

http://phys.org/news/2012-03-efficiency.html

Yeah, I agree about waiting for benchmarks of the rx480... the build I put together was like a 5 min build that I pieced together with some changes possibly needed to it to make the budget work depending on how much they actually cost at the time when the OP is looking to build.

thanks for the suggestions i appreciate the help with finding me a monitor

I switched one and  it went down to 31-33 degrees C, so I guess it worked.
I have one fan in the back that's an intake, one in the front as an intake, another one in the front as an exhaust, and two more on top attached to the radiator as exhaust. Is that good?
 
And just so you will get notified, I will do that...:
@2Fast2Quik @another random person @henkka_scorpio

Unless you want to touch the wrong thing the wrong time and burn something, i would recomend not wearing any polyester, build everything on the MOBO's box and every 5-10 mins touch either your case or the power supply. Thats all

@herman mcpootis @DioOmicida So I will just build it far from carpet...

Not an issue nowadays really. Something from more than a decade ago when hardware was more prone to damage because of this.
 
Just build on a non conductive service and touch something like the power supply to be safe before you begin.
Basically, what everyone here already mentioned.

Room temperature I suppose is fine?
You're worrying to much, which isn't bad, but.