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About mariushm

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Occupation


  • CPU
    AMD FX-8320
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3
  • RAM
    16 GB DDR3 1600 Mhz Low Profile
  • GPU
    Gigabyte Aorus RX 570 4 GB GDDR5
  • Case
    Aerocool XPredator Black Edition (Full Tower)
  • Storage
    128GB Sandisk X400+4TB HGST-NAS+2TB-WD+1TB-WD
  • PSU
    Seasonic X-650 80+ Gold
  • Display(s)
    Samsung T240 (1920x1200 24") + Samsung 2494HM (1080p 24")
  • Cooling
    Zerotherm FZ-120 w/ Nexus RealSilent 120mm fan
  • Keyboard
    Microsft ComfortCurve 3000
  • Mouse
    Logitech MX518
  • Sound
    Logitech X-540 (5.1) + ALC889 onboard
  • Operating System
    Windows 7 Home Premium

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  1. A power supply should/will NOT lose its maximum output power over time. If anything it may become slightly more noisy as the fan gets dusty and the oil inside the axle may leak (modern fans have sealed chambers so they're better at keeping things lubricated and keeping the oils inside the fan) The output voltages may become slightly more "wiggly", instead of being 12v +/- 40mV you may have 12v +/- 80mV due to electrolytic capacitors aging or electrolyte leaking. This generally shouldn't cause any problems since pretty much all components in pc are powered using dc-dc converters, so those filter out minor imperfections. If the power supply is very dusty, at very high output power, the psu may shut down because the internal components may overheat due to said dust. Cleaning the psu and fan of dust often fixes this issue.
  2. mariushm

    Ok, a stupid PCI-E lanes question...

    The x4 device will use 4 lanes, but it's up to the motherboard to decide how many actual lanes will be reserved to the slot. Some motherboards automatically slit an x16 into 2 x8 and therefore your second pci-e x16 slot will have 8 electrical lanes available out of which only 4 will be used by your device. Other more high end motherboards may have a chip which acts like a network switch, it takes 16 lanes from the cpu and creates 32 or more lanes that are then split between slots .... for example something like x16-x16-none-none or x16-x8-x8-none or x16-x8-x4-x4 ... It may also depend on how many m.2 connectors you have populated etc ... Note also that you may have slots which receive pci-e lanes from the chipset and not from cpu ... cpu has some number of lanes and chipset also creates a bunch of lanes, but between cpu and chipset, you have a limitation of around 4 GB/s For example, the i9-9900k may advertise 44 pci-e lanes, but that's COMBINED ... 20 comes from cpu, 24 are created by chipset.
  3. mariushm

    The Most Efficient Output Point Of PSU Load

    The bulk capacitor matters if your mains power is a bit unreliable, if there are random power losses or hiccups of a few milliseconds. The standard says that a power supply must be able to have enough energy in it to output the maximum it advertises for a period of time that's at least equal to 1s divided by AC frequency ... which for US it's 1s / 60 Hz = ~16.6ms Good power supplies typically last for more than this period of time, but on cheaper models they try to save a few cents and use a bulk capacitor that may only keep the power supply running for 10-12 millisecond at its maximum output power. If you're not going to use the power supply at 100% power this period of time increases, but even so, such events where the mains power drops for more than 1-2 ms or something like that are fairly rare on a good power provider. If your mains power is bad, you should have an UPS anyway and that would smooth out your mains power and therefore again, how big this bulk capacitor is should't matter that much. imho ... don't make your choice based on how big a bulk capacitor is and how long of a time the power supply can work without mains power while outputting the maximum wattage, because your pc won't even be in that situation so it's kinda irrelevant for you.
  4. The new RX cards and onward use AMF (AMD Media Framework) which is much better than VCE which was used on your 7950. VCE had quite a few "bugs" and a lot of configurable options didn't even work (or were silently ignored). AMF is more advanced and exposes more settings allowing you to trade quality for speed or the other way around if you so desire.
  5. For streaming, it's up to YOU if you need cores or not. If you want the absolute highest quality, software encoding is the preferred method, and that means the more cores and the higher the frequency, the more processing power you can give the software encoder to encode your video using as high quality settings as possible. However, you can trade off a bit of quality and let the video card do the actual video encoding, in which case only a tiny bit of the processing power is required for encoding the audio part of your stream and for talking back and forth with your video card (sending video frames to the video card, waiting for video card to encode the frames, downloading the encoded frames from the video card, mixing the encoded video frames with the encoded audio frames and so on) So if you have a GT 1050 or higher video card, you can use nVidia's hardware encoding to encode the video and the what cpu you have matters less, as long as it's powerful enough to run your games. On AMD's side, the RX video cards all have AMF and hardware encoding, so you can also use these features to minimize the cpu requirements. If you want to use stricty software encoding, then I would say it would be best to go with at least 6 cores, like a Ryzen 2600 or whatever Intel equivalent is. Intel processors with integrated video cards also have Quicksync which is something similar to the hardware encoding stuff nVidia and AMD has .. basically, offloads the video encoding to these specialized portions of the processor, so the whole processor can be used for gaming. As far as I know, the quality of Quicksync is a bit worse than nVdia's and AMD's solution though. Threadripper is great for software only encoding, but it's a bit worse for gaming in general. Keep in mind that threadripper motherboards are more expensive and you also need a stronger cooler (and must be for that socket TR4, which is bigger than AM4 or othe sockets) while if you buy a Ryzen CPU you could use the stock cpu cooler just fine. Also, the Threadripper processors are made out of two ryzen dies, and there will be a tiny performance loss and games will prefer to use only one of those Ryzen dies, so most games will favor only 4 of the 8 cores inside a threadripper 1900x. For software encoding, it would be very good as the software encoder is perfectly happy to use all those cores but games are more picky about how the cpu is internally built.
  6. mariushm

    Which low-power gpu for streaming pc?

    You have the nVidia cards, anything higher than GT 1030 should have hardware h264 encoding , so probably GT 1050 or GT1050ti could be used. AFAIK GT1030 has hardware encoding disabled. You also have the AMD cards,there's AMF plugin for OBS (may be built in latest obs versions) which should make it possible to use hardware encoder on RX video cards... I would say RX 560 should work fine, Even RX 550 would work fine - yeah, according to this benchmark result at 1080p it can do 96fps (speed) , 81 fps (balaced) , 44 fps (quality) and at 1366x768 it can do 181 / 154 / 86 ( speed/balaced/quality) Your AM1 built probably used VCE, an older version of hardware encoding from AMD... the AMF stuff in the newer cards is much better, pretty much on pair with nVidia's stuff.
  7. mariushm

    The Most Efficient Output Point Of PSU Load

    It's not you being idealistic, it's just that you're posing a really tough question, that's almost impossible to answer with the information you have. I don't know your budget and I don't know your preferences, I don't know how you're going to use your PC, I don't know if you care about the price of electricity, i don't know a lot of things. The efficiency of the power supply at one particular load is just ONE factor out of many factors that would be part of what an "ideal" power supply would mean to you. It may not even be the most important one. For example, let's say you want a super silent PC in as small form as possible, and that's why you went with an ITX system. It may seem counter intuitive, but if you choose a power supply that turns its fan completely when below some load because you think "hey, it's completely silent this way" you may actually make the wrong decision because the power supply fan spinning at a very low rpm could actually create a small air flow within the case and help the other components stay cool and prevent the cpu fan or video card fans from spinning - so by having a psu fan spinning at low rpm barely making any noise, you actually make the system more silent. If this is the case, you may avoid a super efficient psu simply because of this "fan turns off" feature and decide to go with a power supply that always keep the fan spinning. Or, you may choose to go with a power supply that uses a fluid dynamic bearing fan or a sleeve fan, because there are more silent compared to ball bearing fans - HOWEVER sleeve fans are less reliable so you'll not find may power supplies with warranties higher than 5 years using these, while you may find ball bearing fans in power supplies that have 7+ years warranty. Being an ITX design, you may also avoid a specific power supply because it has 65 cm long cables, and you want a power supply with smaller lengths of cables for better cable management. And I don't know... do you keep your PC running 24/7? Is this going to be a server? Are you gonna use the pc for browsing for 5-6 hours a day and only 2 hours for gaming? Such a PC uses little power at idle/browsing/watching movies and more power when gaming - there's different efficiencies at these points. If the PC sits idle for a lot more hours than gaming, it may make more sense to get a psu that's more efficient at lower loads (like 50-100w) instead of being the most efficient at gaming because you'll spend less time gaming. And then there's also the price factor .... how much is your budget, how sensitive you are... is it worth spending for example 10-20$ more on the power supply, when you could move those 10-20$ and buy a higher end video card that could potentially be less power hungry (so overall your system would be more efficient) Or maybe put those 10-20$ into a cpu that costs a bit more but has a lower TDP rating, therefore more efficient? Or maybe you can spend 10-20$ more on the motherboard and then spend a few hours tweaking the overclocking options to make your system more efficient (under volt cpu, undervolt video card etc etc) How much value represents the number of hours you'd spend doing this? You want super accurate or definitive answers, you best provide absolutely ALL the details or factors that you want to be considered. /// apologies for typos and mistakes and missing letters... i have a truly horrible keyboard, temporary situation.
  8. mariushm

    The Most Efficient Output Point Of PSU Load

    You should stop worrying so much about it. The Seasonic FOCUS Plus Gold is a very efficient power supply. It's not the most efficient (titanium and platinum rated power supplies would be more efficient) but from a price vs efficiency viewpoint, it's near the top. The differences in efficiency between quality power supplies are sub 1%, which simply means (just a fictional example) something like one power supply drawing 200 watts from the mains socket, while a different model of power supply drawing 202 watts from the mains socket. When you're paying let's say $0.25 for 1 kWh of electricity, those 2w extra means it would take 500 hours of your computer running in order for those extra 2 watts to add up to 1 kWh and make you pay an extra $0.25 on your power bill. That's practically less than half a dollar extra on your power bill at the end of the month. I don't see your specs because I like having the forum "lean and mean" and disable signatures and footers at the end of people's messages, but assuming you'll have an average ITX system, it would use up to around 200-250 watts when gaming and would probably idle at around 50-70 watts. Any high quality Gold efficiency power supply rated for 450-550w would be pretty much perfect for your needs, and as I explained, the differences in efficiency are so small at that class of products (high quality gold efficiency power supplies) that you shouldn't care about which is the absolute most efficient. If you want to get the best, look at other factors next, like how long the warranty period is, how good the fan is (how noisy - though it may not matter because these power supplies are so efficient they may not even spin the fan until the load goes over 200-300 watts so you may not even hear the fan), if it's modular or not (being ITX you may not want to cable manage a lot or you may not have room in the case) and so on...
  9. mariushm

    Steamcache Server ISO Request

    Dude, spend 50$ on a refurbished computer with proper gigabit network card and loads of memory and good processor. For example, here's some random result from Newegg: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883288608&ignorebbr=1 50$ gets you a HP Desktop Computer Pro 3130 with Pentium G6950 (2x2.80 GHz) 4 GB DDR3 160 GB HDD Windows 10 Home 64-Bit Nuke the Windows 10, add your Linux, add some ram if you want to, but 4 GB is plenty for a light user count, install your extra HDD for storing steam data (160 gb hdd is plenty for the OS, or you can install a 32-64 GB SSD) You can also hit ebay for some socket 1156 processors for something like 10$ ... some of the highest you can use like i5-760 (4x2.66ghz) are around 25$ on ebay if you want more lightweight, you can find those mini cases, look for those smaller cases, they're out there.
  10. mariushm

    Steamcache Server ISO Request

    How often are you uninstalling and installing games? if you're installing a game for the first time, you won't get speeds higher than first download from Steam. Only if a second person installs the same game, or if you uninstall your game and reinstall it, you get the same speeds. If it's just for you, just leave the games installed on your external disk (or if you need disk space on your main SSD or whatever, use the move to another partition feature in Steam) This Steam cache thing is for networks where multiple users install games often, you don't gain anything if it's just 1-2 people, and pi is kinda slow anyway.
  11. mariushm

    The Most Efficient Output Point Of PSU Load

    That's pretty much a model that uses a platform for higher wattage ... my guess is they wanted to have a 450w, a 550w and a 650w model in the series ... so they probably use the same hardware as the 550w with maybe a lower size main capacitor (which doesn't decrease efficiency, only reduces hold up time in case of power hiccups) and maybe cheaper fan. 4 12v rails each specc'ed for 25A ( 300w per rail, 450w in total) is just ridiculous.
  12. mariushm

    EVGA PSU lit my house on fire! 🔥

    Figured as much. Probably the fuse inside your power supply also failed to blow and protect the mains cable and the copper wire inside the mains cable behaved like the filament of an incandescent bulb, going hot and melting the insulation until the copper wire eventually broke from melting. Your house fuse should have caught it and trip. Here's an exaggerated example: Surge protector wouldn't have helped with this. Surge protectors catch spikes and other accidental stuff, not shorts.
  13. mariushm

    The Most Efficient Output Point Of PSU Load

    That statement USED to be true for regular power supplies. Nowadays, it's no longer true. For GOLD efficiency power supplies, the efficiency curve is more like this : Seasonic PRIME Series 750 W https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Seasonic/Prime_750/6.html So you can say the power supply has it's PEAK efficiency at 300w and close to 95% efficiency (so less than 50% of max load of 750w), but between 100w and 600w, you can see that the efficiency difference is less than 1% ... it's practically negligible. BitFenix Formula Gold 750 W https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Bitfenix/BF750F/6.html Same story ... peaks at 300w out of 750w (less than 50% load) but between around 250w and 500w the power supply is 92% +/- 0.5% efficient, practically flat. It's way different compared to older BRONZE power supplies which had a more pronounced curve of efficiency, as you can see here: Enermax NAXN ADV 650 W Review https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Enermax/ETL650AWT/6.html This is actually a DECENT bronze efficiency psu, there are worse. You can see this BRONZE efficiency psu peas at 89% at 250w (still a bit below half of the max of 650w) but there's a much higher difference between minimums and peak... you have 86% at 100w, 89% at 250w , and you're already down at 86% at 600w ... it's not half a percentage difference between peak and wide use range.
  14. mariushm

    EVGA PSU lit my house on fire! 🔥

    My guess is a component on the high voltage side of your power supply failed shorted (normal behavior being to fail as if it's no longer in the circuit) overheating and eventually going up in flames. Can't tell from the picture but based on the dark area, it feels like the mains cable also burnt out, and the insulation of the mains wires burnt out as well. Your power supply is in a metal case, so the fire should not expand to the rest of the case normally, unless it went through the modular connectors. // components that could have failed ... the mains filtering components like X2 capacitors, common mode chokes, main capacitor, diode or mosfet involved in active pfc circuit (if psu has any)
  15. mariushm

    3733mhz ddr4 with ryzen 7 2700x

    Memory timings are a big deal when it comes to performance. There's a much slimmer chance that the motherboard manufacturer has tested those memory sticks and determined the best timings for those sticks, so most likely some parameters will be very loose, set at some default safe levels. Your memory sticks themselves will probably have some high values for some parameters in the xmp profile (or whatever is stored in the memory sticks) With 3200 mhz memories, chances are the bios will pick up better timings by default, or can "train" itself to use them best. Also note that the higher the frequencies, the smaller the chances you'll be able to use 4 memory sticks at same time. If you're oozing money, then I'd suggest going for the 3733 Mhz sticks and lower them down to 3200 Mhz or something like that, and then spend 2-3 hours tweaking all the timins to get best performance.