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mariushm

Member
  • Content Count

    4,880
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About mariushm

  • Title
    Veteran

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Romania
  • Occupation
    Freelancer

System

  • CPU
    AMD FX-8320
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3
  • RAM
    16 GB DDR3 1600 Mhz Low Profile
  • GPU
    Gigabyte Aorus RX 570 4 GB GDDR5
  • Case
    Aerocool XPredator Black Edition (Full Tower)
  • Storage
    128GB Sandisk X400+4TB HGST-NAS+2TB-WD+1TB-WD
  • PSU
    Seasonic X-650 80+ Gold
  • Display(s)
    Samsung T240 (1920x1200 24") + Samsung 2494HM (1080p 24")
  • Cooling
    Zerotherm FZ-120 w/ Nexus RealSilent 120mm fan
  • Keyboard
    Microsft ComfortCurve 3000
  • Mouse
    Logitech MX518
  • Sound
    Logitech X-540 (5.1) + ALC889 onboard
  • Operating System
    Windows 7 Home Premium

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  1. mariushm

    RGB Limit on Motherboard

    The 60 led limit is per rgb connector on motherboard... it's just a number picked based on maximum current (3A) and total led strip length. Fans don't count, those leds are powered from 12v in fan connector. Each RGB led can consume up to around 15-20 mA per color, so let's go with a simple round 50mA per led. 60 leds then give you 60 x 50mA = 3000mA or 3A. The motherboard has no way of knowing how many leds are on a strip, they just say 60 to protect themselves, so you won't damage the connector by connecting a strip which sucks more than 3A... If you have a single color led strip, or a strip that's more efficient or lower power, let's say one with max 5mA per color (like a high eff. red only strip) or 15mA per rgb led, in theory you could have 3000mA / 15mA = 200 leds. Length limitation: the longer the strip , the bigger the losses ... for ex. first led may get 5v, the 15th led may get 4.9v , the 30th led may "see" 4.7v and by the 60th led you may have 4.5v on the strip.. there's losses in the thin wires between the leds. Some leds can work with as little as 3v others need at least 4.5v to work, so by saying 60 , they're also making sure user won't say the motherboard is faulty when the last 10-20 leds on a 100 led strip don't work or are less bright than the others.
  2. mariushm

    SSD will degrade quicker?

    TLC memory has ~ 70-80 TB of writes per 100 GB of endurance, it varies depending on controller and algorithms and how much of it is set aside as reserve or used in pseudo-SLC mode for caching and acceleration. MLC is at around 100-120 TB of writes per 100 GB of memory. Reading data from SSD doesn't wear it out, so since you install the game just once and then just mostly read data from it.
  3. mariushm

    Impossible to add 2nd Monitor

    Your keyboard, mouse and webcam are USB devices. You can easily get a USB hub that you can put under your monitor or you can use some double sided adhesive tape to stick it under your desk. Here's an example of such a usb hub : https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182212 As for speakers and headset, you can also buy extension cords, here's an example : https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882241304
  4. mariushm

    Does it support NVME ssd?

    Do you see anywhere a M.2 connector? I'd say stick to SATA SSDs..
  5. mariushm

    Cheap am4 motherboard?

    S2H if you plan to use integrated graphics and your monitor has only vga (+ d-sub connector) DS3H for +2 memory slots, +1 pci-e x16 (running at x4) Everything else is pretty much the same, not great but then again for the total price...
  6. mariushm

    Card for 4k videos

    Use a cheap RX 460 or higher (RX 550 would probably be the cheapest), or GT 1030 or better. With the mention that GT 1030 is kind of a bad choice because it has hardware encoders disabled, it can only do decoding in hardware (which seems to be enough in your case). Another option would be the cheap Athlon 200GE , dual core Ryzen with integrated graphics and a 35w TDP so it's super low power. The integrated graphics has a hardware decoder, so it will play pretty much anything with no problems. Get the 60$ cpu, a 50$ A320 based motherboard, a 20$ 4 GB memory stick (you can find cheaper at other stores) and you're done... you can sell the mb,cpu and 16 GB of memory on eBay or somewhere and get maybe more than half the money back. In the end it would probably be cheaper than buying a separate video card. The CPU alone is still sold on eBay these days at 70-90$ ... put it on sale at 50$ and you'll probably sell it fast. You'll probably get 30-50$ for the 16 GB kit of DDR3 as well. Or sell the whole bundle for around 100-150$. You'll also save on power if you'll leave the pc running 24/7.... let it idle at around 20-30w instead of 50w+ for the old Intel.
  7. mariushm

    Impossible to add 2nd Monitor

    You can buy longer cables, there are 5m, 10m,15m HDMI cables... DisplayPort is harder, it's limited to 3m due to the bandwidth it has. There's also cables that use fiber optic to transfer data instead of copper wires, but these are a bit more expensive ... here's a link .
  8. The processor (the chip) on the mining cards is pretty much the same as the one used on gaming cards, but the mining cards are simply tweaked a bit to make them cheaper to make. They lack HDMI connectors so the maker doesn't have to pay license costs and royalties for the HDMI connector. The mining video cards also have modified firmware (a sort of BIOS on the video card itself) and through that firmware, the manufacturer may have tweaked everything to cut costs or to "optimize" the card for mining.. My guess is that in the case of the mining video cards, that older version of the driver didn't check things so thoroughly... so just by adding those codes to the text file with codes is enough to get things to work. Let's say it checks if the chip is made by nVidia, it then checks if it's a chip used in the nvidia GTX 1060 series, but that particular version of the driver simply didn't check "is this a gtx 1060 for mining" or "is this a gtx 1060 for gaming", or maybe that particular driver version doesn't ask the video card "do you have any outputs?" Later drivers added a further check, looking in the video card bios for some codes that tell it it's not a card meant to be used for gaming, basically a sign that says "don't use this video card as primary video ouput, because there's no output connectors" Newer drivers could be hacked by somewhat skilled by changing some bits in the driver, in an extremely simple way somewhere in the driver there's a part where the driver asks the video card a question like "Are you a mining video card? Do you have these codes?" and the video card answers "Yes, my code is this and I'm meant for mining" then the driver will refuse to use the card for gaming. Well, you could modify the driver to make it think that the video card answered No, and then the driver would think it's a regular gaming card. However, drivers these days are signed - basically this means if one character in the driver file is modified, a "signature" the driver comes with no longer matches and the operating system will refuse to load it, assuming the driver is corrupted or infected by viruses, or hacked (rightly so). So people would only be able to get those drivers to work by disabling driver signing, which Windows doesn't like... Anyway, there can be some other differences between mining cards and gaming cards. For example, a game often reads big chunks of data from memory chips at one time, like let's say the average amount of data read or written to memory would be 500 KB to 1 MB, a few thousand times a second. In contrast, mining programs may read only 1-4 KB of data at a time, but they do it way more often (like hundreds of thousands a time per second). So through the firmware on the card, the manufacturer may set some parameters to make the memory chips work way better when some application reads small amounts of data all the time, but when this pattern changes. the memory chips may not be able to handle things and the chips could send corrupted data to the processor. Games wouldn't crash, because the processor would detect these corruptions and request the data again and again until the memory chips give the data correctly, but you'd basically get stutters, hiccups, maybe a few frames lost in a particular place in a game level. The firmware may also configure the processor to run at lower frequencies by default compared to regular gaming cards, or adjust the frequency dynamically in a different way compared to the gaming cards in order to keep the power consumption much lower than gaming cards. For example, this would allow them to put a cheaper voltage regulator on the video card - instead of 8 power chips that may cost 40$ in total which can handle 150 watts of power, they could use 8 cheaper chips that cost only 25$ but have a peak power limit of 120 watts only, and they restrict overclocking and reduce frequencies in order to keep power consumption below around 100 watts (compared to up to 125w for a GTX 1060). With a carefully controlled power consumption, on mining cards they could also use cheaper coolers and heatsinks... for example use only 2 heat pipes in the cooler instead of 3-4 heatpipes, or use Aluminum only instead of Aluminum with a copper core heatsink. They could also change the fan curve profile so that fans would always spin or spin at higher rpm to keep the card cool, compared to the gaming card version. So yeah, you MAY be able to get mining cards working and game on them, but there's some fineprint... they're not quite the same as regular gaming cards. If you're aware of these and you're fine with risking up to 100$, then go for it. AMD RX 570 and RX 580 cards that were used for mining are cheap on eBay, under 100$, and unlike with nVidia cards, on these you can even flash them with different firmware (bioses) so even if someone uploaded a custom firmware into the video card, you can download the originals from a site like Techpowerup and you have a working card with outputs and everything, no need to use hacks. Here's an example of RX 570 on eBay at 98$, guy says he has over 30 of them : LINK Why would you spend 80$ on aliexpress and wait weeks for it to come and hack things...
  9. mariushm

    Looking for high capacity 2.5" spinninng rust

    I suspect the difficulty is simply because more vertical space is needed to fit more platters and drive heads. Can only fit so much data in 2.5" surface area. Any particular reason why you don't buy a 5.25" to 3.5" bracket and install a regular hard drive? Examples: 0. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16811993004 1. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817994210
  10. mariushm

    High wattage amp with low wattage speakers

    No, it won't be a problem, as long as you keep the volume low. However, make sure you match the impedance of the speakers. If your speakers are 8 ohm but your amplifier is only 4 ohm, then it may not work, you'll overheat the audio amplifier and you could damage it. Make sure the impedance of your 3w speakers are within the range the amplifier supports.
  11. The driver wouldn't work. Each card you plug in the computer sends some unique codes to the operating system, you can view those yourself by going in device manager... here's for example what's shown for my RX 570: See there ... ven is short for Vendor , who makes the card, DEV is device code, and so on. When the operating system installs a driver, it compares these codes with the codes inside a text file that's part of the driver package. You can trick the operating system and add the codes to that file and that's how you can install the driver on those nvidia mining cards. However, the drivers then also check the codes and they'll refuse to communicate with cards that don't match the codes they recognize. But a nVIdia driver would not be able to communicate with an AMD card, simply because the chips have totally different sets of commands and instructions... it's like one talks German and one talks French, and the drivers talk only one language. The most likely outcome of loading a bad driver would be your pc hanging (the driver asks the video card something in his language but the video card never replies because it doesn't understand the language the driver talks so the driver keeps waiting or repeats the question for ever) or maybe you'd get a blue screen (because the driver asks something and the video card thinks the driver asked for something else and sends back an incorrect reply and so on)
  12. mariushm

    A gpu for 240w psu

    I disagree with Turtle Rig. A GT 1030 consumes up to around 30-45 watts but is very low performance. A GTX 1050 or RX 560 consume up to 80 watts in their default configuration, but you can go in drivers and reduce the power budget, for example from 0% boost to -5% or -10% boost. You get a few percent lower performance but you shave a few watts off the maximum power. Even without playing in the drivers, you're probably going to be fine with a <80w video card like GTX1050 or RX 560 You have an 84w TDP processor that's probably gonna average around 60-80 watts in games, the motherboard and everything else is probably gonna use around 25 watts, so with a <80w video card your system's probably gonna consume less than 200 watts in total. Also, the PSU is 240w , and it will definitely have some safety margins, it's not like it's gonna shut down at exactly 240 watts. It's basically a waste of money to buy a GT 1030 these days. Low performance, hardware encoders disabled by nVidia so you can't stream with it, etc etc edit: And also, if you're really paranoid about power consumption, you can always search eBay for a processor that's faster AND lower power than your i5 4590... search for something with 54w TDP or something like that, chances are you'll find something for 20-40$ ... makes more sense than throwing money on a shit GT 1030.
  13. mariushm

    External power button?

    How about you just don't turn it off? Just leave it running and turn the monitor off when you're not using it. When the pc idles, the power consumption is very low, especially for a hp slimline... typically around 30-50 watts. That's around 5-10$ a month in electricity.
  14. mariushm

    A gpu for 240w psu

    Anything that consumes under 100 watts would work with that machine. Skip GT 1030, it's too low performance. Your best options would be a GTX 1050 / GTX 1050 TI followed by a RX 560 from AMD (because it's probably more expensive than the 1050 models). These three models may require a pci-e 6 pin connector, you can buy a molex (old hdd connector) to pci-e 6+2 adapter if your power supply doesn't have one. Determine first if the case accepts regular height video cards, or only half-height cards... if it's the slim design that only takes half-height, you're probably gonna have more luck with GTX 1050 models. Here's your choices (first number is idle power , when in Windows doing nothing, second is when gaming): RX560 = 9W/79W RX550 = 7W/45W GTX1050Ti = 6W/75W GTX1050 = 6W/75W Older models: GTX 750Ti = 4W/57W GTX 650 Ti = 7W/74W GTX 650 = 6W/62W HD 7850 = 11W/96W HD 7790 = 7W/78W HD 7770 = 7W/73W HD 7750 = 5W/43W HD 6770 = 14W/85W HD 6750 = 13W/72W HD 6670 = 10W/50W HD 6450 = 5W/25W
  15. mariushm

    Finding the OEM of products

    Well, you could start by looking at what mouse OEMs use usb cables made by "Foxwell" or have the "Foxwell" inscription on them. Then you could look up mice models that have that optical sensor rotated by 90 degrees... that's not quite as common. You also have the GG-01 text on the label, but that's probably too generic. Next step would be to open it up and look for texts on the printed circuit board and maybe you get a PCB manufacturer ID or something. Anyway, it's a very cheap mouse, they sell a 30pack for 145$ , or less than 5$ per mouse, you can bet even on that package their profit is at least 1$ per mouse, so we're dealing with 4$ mice here. My guess is the mouse is from a company like A4Tech or some other smaller manufacturer and Amazon simply ordered 10k of them or something like that. Could be a somewhat unknown OEM, after all anyone can make a mouse these days.. the most difficult part is making the plastic case (the case of the mouse), everything else is readily available or can be easily made (circuit board).
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