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mariushm

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About mariushm

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Romania
  • Occupation
    Freelancer

System

  • CPU
    AMD FX-8320
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3
  • RAM
    16 GB DDR3 1600 Mhz Low Profile
  • GPU
    Gigabyte Aorus RX 570 4 GB GDDR5
  • Case
    Aerocool XPredator Black Edition (Full Tower)
  • Storage
    128GB Sandisk X400+4TB HGST-NAS+2TB-WD+1TB-WD
  • PSU
    Seasonic X-650 80+ Gold
  • Display(s)
    Samsung T240 (1920x1200 24") + Samsung 2494HM (1080p 24")
  • Cooling
    Zerotherm FZ-120 w/ Nexus RealSilent 120mm fan
  • Keyboard
    Microsft ComfortCurve 3000
  • Mouse
    Logitech MX518
  • Sound
    Logitech X-540 (5.1) + ALC889 onboard
  • Operating System
    Windows 7 Home Premium

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  1. FYI the genuine game is 58.8 GB for the original version, then 11 GB to update it to version 1.41 (what you get if you download from Steam) Download it from steam.
  2. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denatured_alcohol Denatured alcohol, also called methylated spirit (in Australia, New Zealand, South Africa and the United Kingdom) or denatured rectified spirit,[1] is ethanol that has additives to make it poisonous, bad-tasting, foul-smelling, or nauseating to discourage recreational consumption. Maybe you understand Chinese or whatever that is, but methylated spirit as far as I know can be as little as 5-10% methanol, rest ethanol and coloring and bittering and emetic(puking) substances in very small percentages. Anyway, doesn't really matter, it's a solvent so it will clean better than just plain water so he can use it.
  3. The bottle in picture is plain denatured spirit, or in other words ethanol in which a substance in introduced in a very small amount that would make you throw up if you drink it. It makes it possible to sell it with fewer taxes than plain pure alcohol as it's not for drinking anymore. It's 95% most likely because near 100% is very hard, such liquids absorb water from the air, or through the plastic case over time. Ethanol is a solvent, so it will clean the surface. You can clean the thermal paste with any solvent. Isopropyl alcohol is just a very safe and relatively efficient solvent, which evaporates fast, that's why it's recommended. You can use other solvents, as long as you clean the area of residue afterwards if the solvent leaves residue. So you could use sanitary alcohol, you could use any high alcohol percentage drink (vodka, wiskey, though it would be a shame) You could use acetone (nail polish cleaner), which is even more powerful than isopropyl alcohol, but isn't suggested because drops of acetone on plastic or surfaces can strip the paint off (printed text from chips and part labels etc) The above are very low residue, so just rubbing with a wet cloth / napkin with the above substances is enough. Some solvents that leave some residue you could use ... WD-40 ... it's mostly solvent, with some anti rust and lubrication substances.. Gasoline is a solvent. Gas lighter liquid is solvent.. any of these you can use, as long as you clean the surface with water afterwards to remove the reside left.
  4. You can buy adapter cable that converts regular atx 24pin to those cables the motherboard needs: https://www.moddiy.com/products/HP-Z230-Z220-PSU-Main-Power-24-Pin-to-6-Pin-Adapter-Cable-30cm.html The cable is also on eBay just search for "z220 power supply adapter" or "HP 24 pin to 6 pin adapter cable" and make sure the description includes Z220 Pinout MAY be this. Best to double check the voltages with a multimeter. I suspect the adapter cable contains a tiny microcontroller or something under that heatshrink (the black bit in the middle) which fakes the power supply rpm sensor of the psu, so you won't get bios warnings about power supply fan not working. You also need a step-up (dc-dc converter) to boost the 5v stand-by to 12v stand-by (the purple wire in the picture, pin 6)... example regulator: https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-3-3V-3-7V-5V-6V-to-12V-Boost-Voltage-Regulator-Converter-Step-up-Power-Supply/271812105443?hash=item3f494394e3:g:tjAAAOSwUwlbAk8l picture from : https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R2NXSMYUUD8YYB/ref=cm_cr_getr_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B06XW7RWNH
  5. Do you really HAVE TO screw them with 4 screws? They should be perfectly fine with just two screws. It's not like the case will be moved around. Once the drives are in, they won't be moved. I guess the drives won't sit nicely on 4 rubber rings, but you could just add a cheap rubber / sponge band on the opposite end so that the drive will sit on it instead of vibrating or sitting directly on the metal. It's certainly not a deal breaker. If you really want to, you can also just drill two holes on the sides and screw the drive from the sides as well. See picture below. As for the other, here's for example 4 x 3.5" into 3 x 5.25" : https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-5-25-Inch-3-5-Inch-Hot-swap-SATAIII/dp/B00DGZ42SM/ Here's 5 x 3.5" into 3 x 5.25" (you can find much cheaper from other brands, same mechanical stuff) : https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16817994155?Description=hdd cage 5.25&cm_re=hdd_cage_5.25-_-17-994-155-_-Product
  6. @Sir Dude I think you have a switch which lets you select between two fan speeds: low and high speed. My guess is the resistor by the slide switch is always in series with the fan, but when the switch is on the high speed position, the switch creates a short between the leads of the resistor, practically removing it from the circuit: in the low position, the switch creates a connection between pin 1 and 2, and since the 1 is not connected to anything, nothing happens. The resistor is in the circuit, so the fan spins at lower speed, because it gets lower voltage. In the high position, the switch creates a short between 1 and 2, so now the current goes through the path of least resistance, which is the switch (basically 0 ohm)... so now the resistor is as if it's not there. Anyway, this is a very crude way of limiting the speed of a fan because the value of the resistor will be different depending on the power consumption of the fan. For example, a fan that needs 12v 0.15A and a fan that needs 12v 0.5A would not be reduced at the same percentage of maximum speed if you use the same resistor value. I can show you very simple circuits which would allow you to adjust fan speed with very fine control, and with parts that cost you around 1-2$. Anyway, to the topic of fan, the reason i asked about 20mm vs 25mm was because I assumed you want the whole thing to look nice, to put the back panel back in position and maybe there's no room to install a bigger fan or a thicker fan. If you can, by all means, go with a 92mm or 120mm fan, or go with 38mm fans. You can reset the filters in that link I gave you and choose bigger thickness if you want to. As for the heatsink. I doubt you're really gonna make much of a difference by changing the heatsink, but if you really want to, the same website I gave you has heatsinks of all shapes and sizes. Here's heatsinks that are at least 80mm in one dimension : 1. https://www.digikey.com/short/p1q8dp Examples: 80x80: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/wakefield-vette/SKV808012-AL/345-2039-ND/10108376 90x90: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/wakefield-vette/SKV909010-AL/345-2041-ND/10108378 80x80 copper: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/wakefield-vette/SKV808012-CU/345-2038-ND/10108375 94x94 : https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/advanced-thermal-solutions-inc/ATS-57003-C1-R0/ATS1360-ND/1285074 90x90 (requires blower fan, to blow through the fins) : https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/delta-electronics/DHS-B9090-11A/603-1749-ND/3621528
  7. You need to buy a power supply from a reputable brand, which doesn't lie on the label or exaggerate the specifications. The GTX 970 requires 180 watts to run, GTX 750ti uses up to around 60 watts. It's quite possible that power supply can't handle the extra 120 watts or so that the new power supply needs. You would be fine even with a 450w power supply, but it has to be a "real" 450w (or more), that Rocketfish doesn't do 700w. The cheapest I can recommend are these : 45$ Corsair VS 450 W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply (CP-9020170-NA) - PCPartPicker 47$ Thermaltake Smart 600 W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply (PS-SPD-0600NPCWUS-W) - PCPartPicker 54$ Corsair CX (2017) 450 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (CP-9020120-NA) - PCPartPicker 54$ Corsair VS 550 W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply (CP-9020171-NA) - PCPartPicker
  8. Ok, I wasn't paying attention and didn't associate ICS with "internet connection sharing" right away. Still, seems like more complicated to me compared to just setting two IPs manually. Not to mention that afterwards you have to revert the process, which seems more complicated than just checking a box saying 'detect IP automatically" when you're done.
  9. Yeah, but in order to do that, first the computer needs an IP (192.168.137.1 in your example). You have to set them manually for each computer, if there's no router or device (for example a cable modem) that automatically assigns IPs to each computer. So the easiest is to use the local network IP range (192.168.x.x) to give the two computers a unique IP, therefore 192.168.0.1 on 1st computer and 192.168.0.2 on 2nd computer and subnet mask 255.255.255.0 on both computers. When done, you can either share folders, or you could install Filezilla FTP server on one of the computers and Filezilla FTP client on the other computer, and use them to transfer multiple files in parallel between computers. With network shares you transfer one file at a time, so if you have loads of small files, it can take a long time for transfers to be done. Here's a tutorial video showing how to install and configure Filezilla FTP server and then use Filezilla FTP client to connect to other computer - note it's in Romanian, sorry about that, but all the steps are really obvious from video alone, no need to listenm and it's really a 5 minute setup, not even that long: http://savedonthe.net/a/tutorial_filezilla.mkv Filezilla FTP client limits you to 10 connections at the same time, but you can easily start 2 or 3 copies of Filezilla FTP client and have each download a different folder, so you'll have more than 10 simultaneous transfers, but unless you have multiple mechanical drives or SSDs, you'll find 10 simultaneous connections will saturate the 1gbps link between computers.
  10. Neither. I'd look for a 1660 Super. It has more performance than RX 590 and a better hardware encoder (nvEnc) for streaming. 2060 is expensive and you can't really use RTX and still have decent fps and you'll suffer with just 8 GB of memory. If you're budget limited, I'd go for a cheaper case. Don't focus on a case just because it has 3 big fans in front or whatever - the video card and cpu don't make so much heat that you'd need so many fans. PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor $119.99 @ Newegg Motherboard MSI B450-A PRO ATX AM4 Motherboard $89.99 @ Newegg Memory G.Skill Aegis 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory $52.99 @ Amazon Storage Intel 660p 512 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive $54.99 @ Newegg Video Card EVGA GeForce GTX 1660 Super 6 GB SC ULTRA GAMING Video Card $239.99 @ Best Buy Case Cougar MX330 ATX Mid Tower Case $44.98 @ Newegg Power Supply EVGA BQ 500 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply $59.99 @ ModMyMods Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total $662.92 Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-12-08 11:14 EST-0500
  11. Those cheap USB adapters are usually low quality. You'll probably have some static or you'll have a hard time controlling the boost and volume of the microphone. To answer your question, yes, I don't see why not. You can plug such an audio card and it simply shows as separate sound card, then you can right click on speakers and select Default playback device to keep the old sound card as the one that plays content and on which games will output sound. You can manually configure the microphone input from various programs (Discord, games etc)... you may have to select the other sound card in games and applications to have the microphone working. A different sound card may not help you that much. It could be just a side effect of the headphones cable being cheap, not properly insulated.... as it sits between your head and the computer, the cable could behave like an antenna and pick up radiation/noise emanated by your computer (cpu and video card make noise) If you insist on a sound card, at least buy something with some minimum amount of quality, like this for example: https://www.newegg.com/creative-sound-blaster-play-3/p/N82E16829102100 You also have free pci-e x1 slots, so you also buy a pci-e x1 card and put it in the lowest pci-e slot, far away from your video card and everything. For example, here's some good sound cards: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Creative-SB1040-Sound-Blaster-X-Fi-Xtreme-Audio-7-1-PCI-E-Sound-Card/392277540339?epid=1711774448&hash=item5b55903df3:g:b58AAOSwVkxctId7 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Creative-Blaster-Audigy-Fx-5-1-PCIe-Sound-Card-with-SBX-Pro-Studio-SB1570-USED/123981474404?epid=23033165970&hash=item1cdddf2a64:g:thIAAOSwHMld1EEa https://www.ebay.com/itm/Creative-Soundblaster-SB0880-X-Fi-Titanium-PCIe-x1-Full-Height-Sound-Card/401655731213?epid=1422537571&hash=item5d848c140d:g:XiQAAOSwJrpcYpot
  12. A crossover cable is only needed with 100 mbps ethernet cards. Gigabit ethernet cards are supposed to automatically detect the pairs of wires in the ethernet cable and work automatically. So you can just get a regular pre-made ethernet cable and connect two computers together and it will just work. There's a tiny catch: as you don't have a router or something to assign an unique IP to each computer when you do this, you'll have to give each computer an IP manually. Go to network card properties, and enter IPs to each computer: for example, set one of them to 192.168.0.1 and the other one to 192.168.0.2 Set subnet mask on both to 255.255.255.0 If you don't like those, you could also use 10.0.0.1 and 10.0.0.2 ... This creates a 2 computer network between the two computers. When you're done transferring files, you can simply erase what you entered / check "Detect IP automatically" and disconnect the cable.
  13. Hey, like I said.. remember you can go at Cablemod and order cables with 4 molex connectors per cable for 10-12$ each. They're 100% compatible. You may also be able to custom order cables with more than 4 molex connectors per strand. So if you don't want the hassle of returning and spending more on the psu, you could just order custom cables. Here's the page : https://store.cablemod.com/configurator/ Select PSU Cables (2nd picture from left) , then select Seasonic and M12II and hit continue .... you'll find there Quad Molex. The CX series is not modular, so you're stuck with the cables it has (8 sata and 8 molex) You could order 3 x 4 molex cables and reuse one of the bundled cables with 4 sata, and you have 12 molex and 4 sata. If you bought it for 60$, it's 30$ for the 3 cables so you end up at 90$, same price more or less.
  14. Kinda dubious prices on cel.ro, a bit too low... Anyway, from what's there I'd be comfortable recommending: 338 Placa de baza AsRock B450M PRO4-F Socket AM4 340 (+1 usb) Placa de baza ASRock B450M PRO4 Socket AM4 405 (as above but ATX, -DVI, +DisplayPort) Placa de baza ASRock B450 PRO4 Socket AM4 422 (same as B450 Pro, just better looks) Placa de baza ASRock Fatal1ty B450 GAMING K4 Socket AM4 All of the above may need a bios update to run with a Ryzen 3600.... All these will work with 3600 and even 8 core processors, but should not be used with anything higher than 8 cores without a fan blowing down on the motherboard on the VRM heatsink. They'll handle a 12 core cpu, but without extra fan, chances are the VRM will overheat so the cpu will sometimes run at lower frequencies.
  15. PoE+ usually means fans, because power supply inside has to supply 3-500+ watts (n watts x number of ports) no power over ethernet: 82$ : TP-Link TL-SG1024 24-Port Gigabit Rackmount Switch : https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16833704024 24 x 1 gbps ports, no power over ethernet. 90$ TRENDnet TEG-S24DG Unmanaged Gigabit GREENnet Switch: https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16833156294 24 x 1 gbps ports with poe+ 90$ : TRENDnet 8-Port Gigabit Long Range Poe+ Switch, TPE-LG80, 65W Poe Budget, Ethernet/Network Switch, Long-Range Poe+ Extends Range Up to 200M (656 ft.), 16 Gbps Switching Capacity 8 x 1g ports, 65w of poe+ spread across 8 ports. 223$ NETGEAR 24-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged PoE+ Switch with 190W PoE Budget and 16 Ports PoE+ (GS324P) 24 ports, 16 of which are poe+ with 190w budget , 30w per port max 280$ NETGEAR 24-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged High-Power PoE+ Switch with 380W PoE Budget (GS324PP) 24 ports, all 24 with poe+, 380w budget, 30w per port max
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