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About mariushm

  • Title


  • CPU
    AMD FX-8320
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3
  • RAM
    16 GB DDR3 1600 Mhz Low Profile
  • GPU
    XFX RX 470 4 GB GDDR5 Single Fan Ed.
  • Case
    Aerocool XPredator Black Edition (Full Tower)
  • Storage
    128GB Sandisk X400+4TB HGST-NAS+2TB-WD+2TB-ST+1TB-WD
  • PSU
    Seasonic X-650 80+ Gold
  • Display(s)
    Samsung T240 (1920x1200 24") + Samsung 2494HM (1080p 24")
  • Cooling
    Zerotherm FZ-120 w/ Nexus RealSilent 120mm fan
  • Keyboard
    Microsft ComfortCurve 3000
  • Mouse
    Logitech MX518
  • Sound
    Logitech X-540 (5.1) + ALC889 onboard
  • Operating System
    Windows 7 Home Premium

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  1. 10 bpc display - this isn't HDR, so what is it?

    AFAIK the game needs to have textures and overlays and depth maps and stuff with 10bit per color and custom shaders and internal rendering pipeline to do everything on 10bit or 12bit or 16bit per color. It's not enough to just change the bits per color in Windows, the game needs to be aware of it and use different things to render 10bit. Othewise, the game will just continue to work at 8bit per color.
  2. AMD drivers : 174 MB compressed, around 360 MB uncompressed (they use lzma / 7zip style compression in the executable) Asus drivers : 1.29 GB zip, around 1.75 GB uncompressed Asus drivers are older, from the 31.05.2017 AMD drivers are newer, from December this year. Asus package includes the RaidXpert utility in two versions (probably XP version and Windows Vista/7 and newer, or 32bit / 64 bit) Unless you really want to make complex RAID with hard drives, you don't need the RaidXpert utility, that's why it's separate download on AMD's website. You can make basic RAID stuff from BIOS, before going into OS if you really want to. Asus package also includes some display drivers , probably for motherboards with processors that have integrated graphics - I see for example Bolton there which is the code name for chipsets used with APUs , like socket FM2, FM2+ - they're pointless for socket AM4. There's also some HDMI audio driver for Windows XP in the package as well, something you'd not find on the AMD package because it's for Windows 7 or newer. (you can download older chipset drivers package for Windows XP support) So you should be fine with the ones from AMD's website, since the extra stuff is useless RAID you can download separately and some integrated graphics you don't need on AM4 and the AMD drivers are newer. AMD on left, Asus on right (click on picture to view it large , duh) :
  3. Project psu: dedicated 12v or cheap ATX?

    As opposed to a bronze efficiency 300-450w power that will be 80% at 120-150w out meaning at 120w out, it will pull 140-150w from the wall, therefore 20-30w will be wasted as heat. In my example at 8-9A, with 13v..14v input the regulators will dissipate (14v-12v) x 9A = 18w + another 15w or so wasted on the bridge rectifier (at peak current) so probably less or about the same amount of heat. In theory you could improve it by replacing the bridge rectifier with an ideal one using LT4320 and four mosfets and then your linear power supply will be actually more efficient than a switching power supply (at this output).. but it adds to the overall cost Switching power supplies are used even at low power nowadays because it saves weight and copper which is expensive and because they can be made much smaller, not necessarily because it's much better in all cases. There's also the power factor thing (you have a low power factor with old style transformers but you as a consumer it doesn't really affect you) and the only other downside is that if you have big fluctuations in the mains voltage you may have too low output on the transformer to regulate properly.
  4. Project psu: dedicated 12v or cheap ATX?

    Eh.. i thought I cancelled that post... seems part of it got through. I wrote a long post suggesting a 160-200VA 14v AC transformer (TME.eu stocks them at around 18-21 uk pounds) which gives you up to ~ 17v DC and 9A Using 22000uF capacitor (~1.6 uk pounds) after the bridge rectifier (0.7 uk pounds) gives you a minimum of 13v DC at 8-9A at the output... at less output current, the peak voltage will go up towards 17v DC. Then you can use two 5A linear regulators in parallel to get your 12v at 8-9A of current... problem is TME.eu and Farnell didn't have 5A regulators at reasonable prices so that's where i decided to cancel the post I'm spoiled having a bunch of LT1084 regulators (adjustable 5v) from Linear - used to be able to order up to 2pcs of a part as samples and if you weren't greedy they came within a couple of weeks. Linear is expensive though, 8$ at Digikey.. LM1084 ("clone" made by Texas Instruments) is only 2.6$ in US at Digikey, if i remember it correctly it was around 6$ at Farnell or something like that : https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/texas-instruments/LM1084IT-ADJ-NOPB/LM1084IT-ADJ-NOPB-ND/363557 Anyway, point is at 9A of current the regulators will see 13-14v and with two regulators in parallel, you're gonna have ~ 4.5A on each regulator, so you're only gonna have around 8-10 watts wasted on each regulator as heat. Not a problem with a heatsink and maybe a 80-92mm fan blowing some air over the heatsinks. At lower currents, the input voltage will be on average higher, but the current will be lower so your dissipated power will be sort of constant.
  5. Project psu: dedicated 12v or cheap ATX?

    If you want something really low noise and quality, you could always make yourself a linear power supply. All you need is a transformer, a bridge rectifier, some capacitors and a linear regulator. The transformer will be the most expensive part, and you need rated for
  6. Monitor Kill-Switch... Possible?

    It's possible to make what you say but it would be difficult without any experience. The easiest would be to use a mechanical relay to send power to a mains socket when there's 12v coming from your power supply. When your PC is off, there's no 12v, only 5v stand-by. As soon as you turn on the PC, there's 12v from the power supply so you can connect a mechanical relay to energize and connect the live wires in mains socket and give the monitor power: C14 connector (mains input) : https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/qualtek/701W-X2-04/Q209-ND/245550 C13 connector (mains output) : https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/qualtek/716W-X2-03/Q226-ND/245567 Regular computer cable (to connect box to mains socket) : https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/assmann-wsw-components/AK500-OE-7-0.5/AE10695-ND/2504537 Power cable C14 - C13 (to connect monitor to the output of your box) : https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/assmann-wsw-components/AK500-OE-11-1/AE9911-ND/821665 12v Mechanical relay with 2 poles (single throw or double throw) : https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/omron-electronics-inc-emc-div/G2RL2ADC12BYOMB/Z4267-ND/1789829 and some project box (plastic or wood) and some cable (you can buy at home depot or any store, AWG20 or AWG18 or AWG16 will do just fine. This box would probably work but double check the height of the connectors and the dimensions of the relay (you want to cut rectangular holes to put the C13 and C14 connectors on the side walls so the box must be tall enough to allow that) Project box : 5.308" L x 2.942" W (134.82mm x 74.73mm) X 1.959" (49.76mm) : https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/bud-industries/CU-1874-B/377-1165-ND/387084 Everything would look kinda like this: So in the example above, when there's 12v between 1 and 8 of the relay (the relay doesn't care about polarity), it turns on and creates connections between 5 and 6 and between 3 and 4 , so the live and neutral contacts are connected between the connectors and your monitor will receive power. The Earth wire is always connected, no need to disconnect it. There's a slim possibility that the monitor will stay turned off until you press the power button but most likely it will just turn on and detect signal from video card and just work. When the power supply turns off, it will no longer send 12v to the relay so the relay will disconnect the live and neutral wires so the monitor will no longer receive power. You'll have to be careful about how you lay the cables inside the box, the low voltage wires (12v and ground) that you're supposed to connect to the power supply should be at least 1cm (around half an inch) away from the mains wires. Shouldn't be a problem if the project box is big enough. If you want to save money you can buy a regular PC power cable and cut the connector and just solder the wires directly to the relay and that way you don't need to buy the connector on the left anymore. But you also won't be able to disconnect or reuse that power cable for other projects. notes: 1. the layout of the pins is valid for the relay I linked to. Relays from other brands may have the 3-4 and 5-6 pins arranged in a different way. The datasheet tells you how everything should be connected. 2. The Live and Neutral are not black and blue. In US, I think they're black or red for Live and white for Neutral but I made the neutral blue because I couldn't draw white lines in picture without changing the background of the image. In Europe, we're using brown for live (easy to remember, you sh*t your pants if you touch it) and blue for neutral. Anyway, the colors don't really matter. You just have to connect Live to Live and Neutral to Neutral in the connectors. Just mentioning the colors in case you cut a power cable and see no blue wire inside.
  7. Yes, you can insert any video card from any manufacturer. Most motherboards will accept up to 8 video cards, a lot of them have no limitations (other than physical slots) You can even insert PCI based Matrox cards if your motherboard still has PCI slots and use them along amd and nvidia cards.
  8. Just get some credit card or something with a flat side and gently push it until it aligns with the other pins. It's not broken, it's just bent. If you do break it, you're just disconnecting a wire through which data moves. The device will simply not be able to connect at USB 3.0 speeds, but may connect and work at usb 2.0 speeds. Each vertical line of pins belongs to one USB 3.0 connector. For USB 2.0, only Vbus , GND and P1_D+ and P1_D- are required, the others with SS in name (short for Super Speed) are required for USB 3.0 speeds. The pin that's bent in your header is SSRX+ (super speed receive) which means that if it's broken completely, whatever you connect in that port can't receive data at usb 3.0 speeds.
  9. Is it just me or the >observer_ game used the same effect SOMA did with the guy's face?

  10. Make it a keychain. It's not worth using it, low performance for lot of power consumption. Not worth it for a file server. It would be cheaper to buy a 40-50$ motherboard with embedded cpu (soldered)... you'll spend more in electricity for that Intel cpu in 1-2 years.
  11. Transaction frozen

    There were some huge transactions yesterday and in the past 2 days... like moving 14500 Bitcoin around ... i wouldn't be surprised if your transaction fee is simply too low to be prioritized over others. I guess you should be more patient...
  12. The 850 Evo has 75 TB endurance (~ 41 GB per day average to last the 5 years warranty) while the SSD Plus should have around 40 TB for the 120 GB model and maybe 60 TB for the 240 GB model. It has only 3 years warranty, so you can estimate around 40 GB per day x 3 x 365 = ~ 44 TB + some percentage because there's bigger reserves (16 GB) hidden from you, compared to 6 GB on the 850 evo I wouldn't worry too much about it if you're not gonna use the ssd to write constantly stuff to it.Once it's there, it doesn't matter how many times you read it, you don't degrade the drive with reads, only with writes.
  13. Fans use very little power, typically less than 2 watts. You can look on their labels, you will see something like 12v 0.15A .. that's 12x0.15 = 1.8 watts at max rpm. Only server fans use lots of power and are noisy. later edit: special fans for high static pressure, designed to push a lot of air through fins, for example fans for watercooling heatsink may also use a bit more than 2 watts, but generally a relatively low amount, let's say less than 5-10w.
  14. Your motherboard will have various headers where you plug those cables. Each cable should have something written on it, USB , USB3 (for USB 3.0) , HDAUDIO for front panel audio connectors. There should be text on the headers on the motherboard which tells you what that header is for, for example USB3_0 means that's 1st header for usb 3 , USB3_1 will mean 2nd header for USB 3.0. Or you may have USB3_01 for "usb 3.0 header for two ports numbered 0 and 1" You may have HDAUDIO or AC97 (older name for the front panel audio connector) Pretty much all connectors are keyed (one pin is missing or filled with some material) so you shouldn't normally be able to plug a connector in a wrong header, but still pay attention and you should be fine. The motherboard manual tells you where each header is located with pictures and everything. It may not come in the box with the motherboard, but it may be on the CD/DVD or you can download it as a PDF file from the motherboard manufacturer's website It's simple. Go to manufacturer's website, search for the model of the motherboard you have, click on Download or Support or Service , then find the Manuals section and you'll find there "User Guide" or "Manual" or something like that.
  15. It was used by older mechanical hard drives and optical drives, before SATA was invented. Right after SATA was invented, some SATA hard drives had both SATA power AND older style power connectors, just in case buyers had older power supplies that had no SATA power connectors. Here's an example of such a hard drive : ==========[ SATA POWER ] [ SATA DATA]============[MOLEX POWER] Left section is SATA power, the smaller section is for SATA data cable, and if you have an old power supply without SATA power cables, you could have used the older molex power cable by plugging it all the way to the right. Some fans and some water pumps can still use it (as an option), if you don't have enough fan headers on the motherboard A lot of people also use older CD-RW optical drives or DVD-RW optical drives which were using the older molex connector so power supplies still offer them. Some specialized cards (capture cards, RAID cards, USB 3 cards) sometimes have this old style molex connector when they need more power than what the slot they're plugged in can actually provide safely.