maremp

I mean, there are additives that you should be adding, anticorrosives, antibio stuff... running straight DW will cause issues fast. 
 
Throw some glycol in there for good measure and the liquid should last a couple years, but best to flush it yearly so you can keep an eye on system. When you empty it dump it in a bucket and look for off colours, build up, biofilms, that kinda thing. 
 
PS I run an AIO card and AIO cpu cooler, they last usually 5-10 years so the life of the system give or take. I read in detail about watercooling before deciding to go the AIO route 

I was thinking something like this, you would have to confirm its compatibility though
 
https://nzxt.com/en-GB/product/kraken-g12 
 
Even has active cooling for the other parts. Just grab any aio with the same mount

Price and availability are your main concerns then. My suggestion is to either get the 5800X as it's cheaper (and so are RAM, mainboards, etc) but the 3D chip has you playing games more smoothly for longer due to it's outstanding performance.

Simple, on am4 (you are not) 5800x3D
else am5, get whatever you want, zen4x3d comes out next quarter if you want that,
or just get something cheap today and get zen5x3d/zen6x3d  when those drop for am5. When am6 drops, any cpu on am5 will be cheap just like how all the 5xxx chips are cheap and you wont need to rebuild, just a really cheap swap. 

 

Unlikely you’ll ever see the profits of ETH. The remaining PoW chains are mostly shitcoins which have nowhere near the market cap or liquidity of ETH, there’s no serious adoption. So even if you are able to mine a lot and have profitability at time of mining, you will not be able to sell large volumes, the price would crash. And mining consolidators like nicehash will not give you free money either, they won’t offer high rewards for risky coins. 

I’m not 

What I may suggest is maybe paying more attention to things? I don't mine but I still knew this was coming for months. You'd think if you were operating multiple GPU's 24/7 you'd be aware of mining/crypto related news and forecasts? 

I believe there's only one consumer option for now from alienware, LTT has a video about it
 
 
It's exciting and looks stunning when you first see it, but haven't used it as daily driver. The alienware one still is early tech and feels forced to market, judging by things like monitor with active cooling (wtf). I made extra effort to have a silent pc so I wouldn't give that away for a display with a fan that buzzes on my desk all say.
 
Samsung plans to release something by the end of year so finally there's going to be some competition, but I expect we'll still be paying the early adopter tax.
 

jokes aside I feel like you might be overestimating your ability, try making the game you mentioned using free stock assets just to see if you can get it to work before involving a dedicated artist...

There's a lexical error with p+a=2, =2 is an assignment not comparison and p+a is an expression, which is not assignable. Using = when intent is equality comparison (==) reminds me of bad attempts from marketing people trying to appeal to programmers 😀

There's a lexical error with p+a=2, =2 is an assignment not comparison and p+a is an expression, which is not assignable. Using = when intent is equality comparison (==) reminds me of bad attempts from marketing people trying to appeal to programmers 😀

Reducing idle might be difficult or even not possible. You can try turning off unneeded features in bios.
 
Reducing load power you have more options. Just how much CPU do you really need for your intended uses? You can set a power limit if you want to cap it, or even turn off some cores if you don't need 4 of them. That might also help idle a little.
 
dGPUs can take a fair bit of power even idle so if not needed, using the integrated could be quite a saving.

Try disable / change the max power states in the BIOS and/or on a Windows-System go to the control panel -> energy options -> change current energy settings -> advanced -> CPU energy settings -> maximum power state of the CPU in %.
 
Edit:
And maybe configure wake on lan and I think it is possible to auto-shutdown/start a PC on specific times in a modern UEFI - but I never tried that myself.

That's a terrible suggestion. With most gpus you'll void the warranty if you take off the cooler to replace the thermal paste. The gpu cooler setup is more intricate compared to the simple cpu cooler, so it's easier to break something if not sure what you're doing.
 
Also the 3080ti was released in June 2021, so even if OP got it on first day, it's nearly impossible for the thermal paste to go bad, unless the manufacturer majorly failed at one of the simplest things. Usually the thermal paste and pads should be good for longer than other gpu components. 

What's the point of making the comment then? OP is looking for solutions, why suggest something that you're not going to back up, when a suggestion can do more damage than good?

Perhaps you've used a profile or accidentally modified the fan curve? Here's a guide to adjust it: https://msiafterburnerguide.com/how-to-set-fan-curve-in-msi-afterburner/
You can set it so the fan is off at lower temperatures.
 
Personally I set the fan to a very low speed at low temperatures, so it's nearly silent but still moving a bit of air. This way the fans don't take off at every slight hint of gpu stress, there's a more gradual increase. Also I've turned off the smooth rising (I think you have to double-click it) and use specific points. The curve might look nice, but it's annoying when the fans move up and down in speed constantly as the temperature changes, even by something as simple as room temperature change. Best to play around and find a config that works for you.

I suggest you watch some reviews, you're sure to find some on LTT channel, or other quality reviewers, e.g. Hardware Unboxed or Gamers Nexus. It still same chip underneath so the only difference is the cooler, which can make a bit of difference on the performance. It's probably not worth spending a lot on special editions and dual bios versions or whatever for a 3060 ti anyway.  

The m.2 drive will be better suited as a boot drive as well.
 
I suggest you unplug your current ssd and hdd (to avoid any mistakes) and do a fresh install on the m.2 drive, then plug the disks back in and move over the data you need. This way you'll also get rid of all the crapware you've probably accumulated, which should make the pc run faster and will also leave you with more free space.
 
If you do not fancy that, you can clone the ssd to m.2 so it can work as a boot drive, and then move the games you play often from the hdd to the new m.2 disk.

this is am amazingly informative answer, thank you so much for sharing this info! 
i am a bit wiser now. 
tbh this makes me want to run the Plex sotfware on a raspberry pi device at home just to try this out. 

To mirror a screen, the technology, either airplay or anything else, has to do the following:
Capture the real-time recording of the screen.  Compress the video for faster transmission. Send the video over the network. The remote device (TV, apple TV, etc.) has to decode the video and then play it back. The resolution of laptops is quite large, e.g. the new 14" macbook has native resolution of 3024x1964. Even when running it at 2x scaled (default), that's 1512x982, that's ~72% of 1080p resolution. It takes a lot of processing to achieve that, and if the cpu is not fast enough, it has to drop frames or it will just keep lagging behind. That's why the computer gets so hot when doing any kind of screen sharing, e.g. you might have noticed it with zoom or other chat apps if you ever use those. 
The lower framerate or dropped frames are why it feels laggy, especially with a video where you notice immediately because it breaks the continuity. It's like a fps drop when gaming, but worse.
 
But when playing back a video via apple TV, the video has some special properties that help with smooth playback. It's already compressed so the device can skip first two steps and just send it over the network. And the device can send parts of the video in advance, for example, it sends chunks of one minute, and when 30s in, it will send next minute and so on (I made up these numbers as an example). This way, even it there is a delay in the network, there is some video to play back and you won't notice any stutter. And in the rare cases when it does, you'll see the loading spinner (the good ol' buffering). 
With screen mirroring, you cannot do that because you can't record into the future and send video ahead of time. Even when playing back a video, the device still has to record the screen in realtime. 

How are you surprised by that speed on a local network over a couple of meters, and not by the fact that you can stream a 4k video over the actual internet?
 
According to a calculator I found online, youtube 4k compression for 90 minutes of video comes at 29GB, almost 4x the size of what you're describing. Calculating for 1080p, it comes at 7.3GB, which is about the size you're describing. So are you seriously impressed by the fact that you can stream a 1080p video over wifi, when you're able to do that over internet + wifi, heck even via phone data transfer, for years? 
 
Also, your math is way off. 8GB = 8192MB, duration 1.5h = 90mins = 5400s, 8192MB / 5400s = 1.52MB/s. Even the almost 20 years old wifi 802.11g standard at 54mbit/s cap can handle that.

Depends on what you're looking for. Just gaming or productivity as well? Also, are you looking to use nvidia's features like DLSS? 
 
In pure performance, the rtx 3080 is comparable to, or even a bit worse than rx 6800 xt, so the rx 6900 xt is surely going to beat it, but there might be outliers. But if you compare raytacing performance and enable DLSS, it's a different playing field and nvidia has an edge there.
 
Also the rx 6900 xt is better suited for productivity workloads that depend on large vram.
 
Hardware unboxed videos usually have good detail, the rx 6900 xt review also includes stats for the rtx 3080: 
 
 
But chances are that if you're looking at rtx 3080, you probably do not need the rx 6900 xt, take a look at rx 6800 xt and save some $$$. You can invest the difference in a good psu if you don't have one already, those gpus are power hogs so it's important to have a reliable power supply. 
That's what I'm going for, but I'm biased against nvidia since I don't like their business practices. Not that amd is much better, but they're the lesser of two evils the way I see it. Also a very niche thing, but I cannot use nvidia gpu for my hackintosh boot because apple won't sign the nvidia web drivers. 
 
 

I know someone who does smd soldering and I bought matching mosfets so we tried to replace those. But even with that it did not work.
 
So yeah I ended up using the igpu for a while, and now I got a new card.

You can try, it's quick and easy. But I don't have high hopes for it.
 
Here's the thread from when I had these problems, if you're curious
 
Sorry, I know it sucks to have the gpu die, especially in the current market 😞

Same thing happened in my case, what I was describing in previous post. The click is a sure sign of dead gpu, that's why I suggested to unplug the gpu power to test for this.