nikohd

OK so this is a post to clear thing up about air and how it works. First of all let me say something alot of people dont know. POSITIVE AIR PRESSURE DOES NOT PREVENT OR LESSEN DUST, UNLESS YOU HAVE FILTERS. Some people dont know this. They have a case with no filters, put positive air pressure in, and say it helps with dust. It does not.
 
Vocab
Positive Air Pressure: Formed when more air goes in than out. Dont judge by amount of fans or size, judge by total CFM of the fans, for example, if you have 3 120mm fans intakeing with 30 CFM each, and 3 fans exauseitng with 20 CFM each, you would have positive air pressure.

Negative Air Pressure: Same as positive, but more air goes out than in.

Air Flow: How air moves through a case. LIke front bottom to top back, as found most commonly.

CFM (Cubic Feet Per Minute): The amount of air a fan moves

M3/H (Cubic Meter Per Hour): Like CFM, 1 CFM=1.7 M3/H

Decibels (db): Noise of a fan. Anything below 30 is quiet but many times the listed specs are not correct.

Static Pressure: The amount of pressure a fan has, higher is better for radiators, heatsinks, and restrictive panels.

MM H2O: Units to measure static pressure

Fan Control:

PWM: Pulse Width Modulation. This is a 4 pin connector that would usually be on your motherboard. Can easily fine tune RPM via software. Usually more expensive, but greater software control

Voltage Control: This is on your standard 3 pin fan. There are simple adapters to slow it down from the standard 12V to 9V, 7V, and 5V. Most hardware fan controllers can fine tune it more, using regular 3 pin fans.

Case Airflow:

Ideal airflow is straight, Front to Back, Or Bottom to Top. Most cases do not have this, some do. Some cases that have this are H440, S340, and Silverstone Fortress and Raven Cases. However, it seems to be becoming a new trend with cases like the define s.
This means in cases that have sufficient front intake, a top fan can actually increase temps.

Examples of Phantom 410, R4, H440, 750D, Prodigy, S340, and Enthoo Luxe/Pro, all different types of heatsinks and AIO's. Ask for another case and Ill add it!



Impact Of GPU, Side Fan, and PSU on airflow:
Adding any large object to a case will impact airflow, usually for the worse.
To eliminate any of this, have the PSU facing down, unless you have no vent, or have thick carpet. This will take PSU airflow out of the picture.
GPU's will mess up air flow.
If you have ideal, front to back airflow, a blower style will impact it less.
For a more standard airflow case, just get one that performs well.
Side fans are a large debate.
It all depends on your case and GPU.
You would have to see what works for you. 
SFF Cooling
Small form factor cases are on the rise, and they always are a challenge to cool. New designs are very unique, so each case will be very different to cool. A general rule of thumb is that a blower style GPU will be better, but this is not always the case. With cases such as the RVZ01/2, the separate GPU chamber allows the GPU to not effect the CPU's airflow. IN cases like this, and aftermarket design would work out fine.

Ask any questions, and Ill add the answers to the OP here, so this can become a database of air info.

PCPP recommends ~400watts maximum, so 520W of a non-crappy brand (and highly pref. 80+ something) for an oc should be enough.
 
Whats the price dif. of 2GB vs 4GB, if it's a serious amount then just get the 2GB, but if its like $10-$20 USD more (500-1000 php), then just get the 4gb version.

Great answer! To be honest, my casual editing only means like, After Effects rendering whenever my brother has projects that involves editing a simple video to be able to make it visually attractive. But yes, you are kinda correct with the casual video editing thing. If I'd go i3, it would reduce the price by a high margin (for my me and my budget). What do you think of having a 4gb VRAM on a 1080p machine? 
 
Hey, thank you for the initiative. Anyway, just use US prices, typically if the U.S price is around $180 we'll have it here at around $184 or $186. Tho parts availability would be an issue, but most build-trends-item are available here. (except Phanteks )

You don't need a paid app/software to be able for you to clean your PC. CCleaner would do you fine, add up CCEnhancer and you'll get in shape in a matter of minutes. Also, do not clean your registry using Registry Cleaners. If you're going to uninstall an app/software, use Revo Uninstaller.

Both will do fine imo,
the i3 will max most games you will play, especially oc'ed, but you may chug a little depending on what "casual video editing means", I'm assuming its the "pop this clip into Vegas" kind of thing, in which an i3 will do okay at like 1080p30.
 
I recently had ~$500 to spend, and opted not to upgrade my pc because, frankly, I am happy with my i5-6500 and GTX 750TI.

@Macintoshviews
 
I cannot post any link as I don't know any but I can give you my personal way of doing:
1. 1st thing to do go on your motherboard manufacturer website and download all dem driver (they aren't all important but if you don't know which are the right one for your build you can download everything just in case ^^ )
2. then do the same thing for the graphic card
3. then the same for all your other extension card if you have any (ex: sound card or wifi card)
4. download hwmonitor and prime95 do a little stress test (the blend test it also test the ram) of your cpu (4 hour should give you a great waranty that it wont crash and it'll give you the max temp of your cpu)
5. download furmark and do the same for the graphic card this will give you your max temp for the gpu 
6. download crytaldisk and see what's your harddrive/ssd result it should be fine but in case of a terrible result you might want to change drive
 
with that you have: 
-all your driver
-tested gpu,cpu,ram,cooling performance,motherboard,harddriver/ssd and the psu so your mostly certain that nothing bad will happen
 
by the way you can use those same software to overclock and if you want to test performance I use valley benchmark for the gpu and cinebench for the cpu 
 
edit: all those download link
prime95: http://www.guru3d.com/files-details/prime95-download.html
hwmonitor: http://www.cpuid.com/downloads/hwmonitor/hwmonitor_1.27.exe
furmark: http://www.geeks3d.com/20140908/furmark-1-14-1-gpu-burn-in-utility-stress-test-download/
crystaldisk: http://suishoshizuku.com/en/software/
valley benchmark: https://unigine.com/products/valley/
cinebench: http://www.maxon.net/products/cinebench/overview.html
 
if you want to overclock your cpu you should have this one:
cpuz: http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html

Where are you shopping? Budget?
Both have bad airflow.

Thanks man, you saved me $20.

I'd say that's worth it, I've never had an issue with ASUS in the past.

Zotac better because Palit card is highly overclocked. but more badass though ...

The Node is probably a more durable option, but I have build in the Air 240 and had a complete blast with it. It looks fantastic and cable management is great considering the size. So if you aren't throwing it around the room I say the Air 240 gets it.
 

Fractal Design Node 804 FTW!

I'd hate to tell you that you're wrong, but you're so incredibly wrong. I have no clue where you kids keep getting this, "The R9 280 is slightly/a lot faster" bullshit because it's straight out, NOT TRUE.
 
 
There are only two benchmarks that I could find that show the R9 280 being above the GTX 960, and it was up by a single frame or two.
 
 
On average, the GTX 960 is faster than the R9 280. Stop spouting the bullshit that "the R9 280 is 20%, 40%, 60% faster than the 960 because it's plainly not true. If it's faster, it's either a 1-2FPS difference, completely negligible, or the GTX 960 is limited by the VRAM in higher resolutions.

Haha yeah I know, for some reason I only realized after I posted

^ Most likely.
Technically not matx but it's small enough and might as well be recommended. It's still at a bit of a premium due to the popularity though.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wp98SH3vW2Y

It's the electronics lottery in which not every board is 100% guaranteed against defects. Even some of the top quality boards have a high rate of people who's either gotten a doa board or one that failed on them shortly after ownership. Saying this board is ultimately prone to failure is establishing a thesis based on no evidence. If you bought a crate of these and tested them to that conclusion then I would oblige. Tho you just can't say that this board is more prone to failure than others. Half of the boards in your PCPP list comes from even far less reputable manufactures.

I think ASUS does the blue theme and the red theme. While MSI always go Red, well atleast their good boards are always red (correct me if im wrong). 
And also, I think this is a great board for a B85 series chipset, if you're going to but better motherboards for a little bit more, can you give a link here. If it's ASRock or MSI, I wouldn't go for it. But if you can give a good motherboard for a little bit more that's Gigabyte or ASUS, I'll be happy to look at your suggestion. IMHO
 
Hoooooray! for the green squad!

I'd say a 970 is definitely worth it, especially when upgrading from integrated graphics like I was.

Me too.

^SOURCE^
Anyone else get the reference?
 
 

 
This... Looks WAY too good to be true. Quite frankly the game I've always dreamed of. It runs on URE4 and looks amazing. Its essentially a game where you can create your characters life much like you would your own in the real world. So you can be a cop and fight crime, or you can be Walter White and make meth in a RV in the middle of nowhere.

Hahaha... yeah...the hype is starting!  

Thats better than any teaser )

Well if you're going to SLI/Crossfire, wouldn't it be better to not buy a B85 because you have a budget to go SLI, for sure you can afford a Z97 chipset. The point here is, B85 boards are for those that are looking to have enthusiast board at a cheaper price. IMHO.

Good for him! Nope, not judging
 
I agree. Thanks for the up bro