Pyr0monk3y

I know the "Whole Home Water Cooling" video is a long way off, but I'm already excited for it. I want to see them apply everything they learned from the whole room water cooling project. It would be pretty sweet to see 3kW of heat being dissipated by one radiator. McMaster has you covered for radiators meant for this exact purpose. CAD models are already provided for designing mounting solutions. They're expensive but maybe still cheaper than chaining a bunch of PC radiators together to get the same cooling capacity... unless a PC radiator supplier sponsors the project. It would also be neat to see a thermostat in-line to keep the coolant from going sub-ambient in the winter. I daydream about doing this all the time but I can't do it where I currently live. I look forward to seeing Linus try it.

Vesa 100x100mm mounts use M4x10 screws. Pan head or socket head will work. https://www.mcmaster.com/91306A727/

I agree with your assumptions and the switch you linked is a good choice. Depending on the environment you're putting your switch in and your level of fault tolerance, I would consider the GS116NA. It has a lifetime warranty, 1 business day replacement, and all solid state components (no electrolytic capacitors).... for 2x the price.

To illustrate the value of a good set of binos, the farthest target in this photo is at 1140 yards and I could watch bullets drop in from the horizon and hit it. The photo was taken with an iphone SE through one side of a set of Maven B5 18x56 binoculars.

Honestly any bino's that retail for under $200 are iffy. That's the least I would ever spend on medium powered binos. The price/value curve is pretty flat until about $200 then it's nearly vertical until $800, then it's flat again. Just save up until you can get the good stuff. Binoculars last literally forever.

The vortex diamondback line is a good budget option. the 12x50 would work well on a monopod with the vortex tripod adaptor. Don't plan on holding them in your hands unsupported to spot hits, you won't be able to hold them steady enough. I use a cheap amazon basics monopod and it's worth its weight in gold.

That's a tough price point for a spotter. IMO you'll see more through a set of $300 binoculars than through a $300 spotter. The depth perception you get from binoculars is extremely helpful.

If you get an ultrasonic cleaner big enough for the part to fit in, it will clean it. You have to be a little careful about preserving finishes though. Anything like nitride or phosphate is fine but coatings like cerakote or NiB plating can break down over time. For delicate parts I usually run the ultrasonic unit for about 5 minutes, then let the parts stay in the tank for another hour to soak before taking them out and drying them off. My ultrasonic tank isn't big enough for rifle barrels, but it does great on pistol barrels. It's still useful for rifle barrels every once in a while though. If I'm replacing the barrel on a rifle and need to remove the muzzle device, I hang the barrel above the ultrasonic tank so that just the muzzle threads are submerged in the tank. Then I can use the ultrasonic to dissolve the thread locking compound.

I have some experience with this. You can use brake cleaner with no issues, throttle body cleaner works too (maybe better?). Cerokote can handle the chemicals, most other modern firearms finishes are ok with it too. My favorite carbon solvent is Kroil. It's still expensive even without a "gun tax", but it lifts carbon from bores and bolts after just a few minutes of soaking. It's useful for a lot of other things in the shop too. If you want to get more extreme with your carbon cleaning regimen, an ultrasonic cleaner is the way to go. I have a suppressor that only gets used on bolt guns. It accumulates carbon buildup very quickly and because the suppressor is welded together, a solvent bath is the only way to clean it. I fill an ultrasonic cleaner with a 10:1 solution of water and Simple Green HD industrial cleaner. After 30 minutes the carbon is mostly dissolved. Works great for cleaning wax and lead from rimfire baffles too. AR BCG's come out looking brand new after only 10 minutes. If you shoot a lot, an ultrasonic cleaner is a great investment. I have a 3 liter unit I got for $80 on eBay.

There will not be condensation unless the fins are at a temperature below the dew point. In your scenario, the absolute best case scenario is that the fins get to the external room temp, which will not be below the dew point. Also, if your are going to actually try this, you will be much better off using a separate loop for cooling the case. The output of the external radiator will still likely be above ambient and you need every advantage you can get.

This would work, but you would need very large radiators and fans on both ends. The issue here is that you are dealing with an air to water heat exchanger on both ends. Air has a lot less heat capacity than water so in order to turn 60C water into 40C water, you need to move a lot of air through the fins of your radiator. To turn 40C water into 20C water, you need even more air flow. It's definitely possible with big enough fans and radiators, but if the goal is silence then then massive amount of airflow needed defeats the purpose. Also remember that this needs to be a separate loop, meaning an additional pump and additional lines need to exit the case in an airtight manor.

"Coil whine" can be caused by several types of electronic components on pretty much any electronic device. It doesn't have to be a GPU or motherboard. Usually inductors are the culprit, but ceramic capacitors can whine too. It's definitely a bad sign. If it whined from day one, I would say that it was just poorly designed, but since it started recently I suspect there has been a component failure. You can either replace the power supply or dig into it and see if you can find a reason that it may have started whining (recently failed cap, melted celastic compound, etc).

The Poker 3 is on massdrop for $110 right now.

Octoprint is the ticket. I have mine setup such that the Rpi triggers a relay giving power to the printer. Octopint also has VPN functionality built in so you can start/stop/monitor your prints from anywhere. Make sure to pick up a webcam too. I use the raspberry pi webcam but most usb webcams will work. It's nice to be able to check in on your prints once in a while and shut it down if it starts turning to spaghetti. Some people are getting creative by adding additional motors and controls to remotely remove objects from the print bed so they can start a new print from off-site. I'm not there yet.