00RaZoR11

i use a huion h640p. It's a pretty good first tablet. Though with that budget I'd suggest a wacom intuos medium. I haven't tried it, it's pretty expensive, but if price is anything to go by, it must be much better than mine. An ipad+apple pencil might also be a great fit for you. Look up Brad Colbow. From what i've seen he's a professional artist and his favorite is the ipad

maybe play a typing game like zty.pe or typeracer. If it doesn't give you a problem there, it's probably just the game. Otherwise you could send it in for warranty or just disassemble it yourself. Maybe sell it to somebody as spare parts.

contact cleaner sounds good, then dry it out with compressed air or something. Just be careful with a compressor, I'm afraid a very high pressure blow might bend the contacts (if it's anything like a cherry switch). Desoldering isn't that difficult imo. Watch some videos from louis rossmann and learn from him how to solder (if the cleaning doesnt work). You would need -screwdriver -soldering iron -wick -flux -solder -zip ties or small flathead screwdrivers (to disassemble the switch) even the cheapest stuff would be fine, don't overthink it.

I hope it will work well with the 3700x. Could you tell me about it? (so I know for sure whether I'd better stop recommending it or not )

sorry for being so late. Naturally, you cannot avoid draining at least some of the liquid out of it. The difficult part is mixing new liquid that won't destroy the loop. Refilling can be done in a large container, so that you can submerge the radiator and the tube in the liquid, and reattach the tube while the pump is running. There is at least one video about this > click. (6.30)

Go to a store where they have showcase units, even if theey aren't cherry, just compare the types of switches, clicky, linear, tactile. If silence is an important aspect, I'd suggest steering clear of any clicky switch, they are extremely loud (to me). I tried razer and some other smaller brand's clickies, and I made a decision after the 3rd press. Linear (red-like) switches are weird, the only feedback you get is when you bottom or out reach the top (if they are good quality. My tesoro "linear" gives feedback on the activation, similarly to a tactile, but in a less subtle way). I think it would take lots of practice to become efficient with linears. I double typed with them a lot, or just simply didn't press it deep enough. I presume it would cause you lots of headache with your webdeveloper job. Browns are pretty good, you feel when they acivate, and they are much more silent than clickies. I've had 3 mech keyboards, 2 coolermaster cherry browns and 1 tesoro linear, and after the ~300usd spent, I feel like I'll just buy a membrane kb once the current ones die completely. My latest cm mk750 had a big role in my changing of mind, because its switches come from a bad batch i think, and I have replaced like 12 of them (from my older cm quickfire tk, also cherry brown, which -funnily enough- I had hammered for years, and every switch on it still works). A good membrane kb will give you the feedback and silence and RGB. The hyperx alloy core rgb would be my choice these days. I don't know how it feels, but it can't be bad. Second place is any 20usd rgb thin laptop-style kb.

I would put it in my asrock b450 gaming k4. It's the cheapest mobo with good VRM, decent IO, good number of internal headers. I hope you know what kind of ram you are buying, ryzen doesn't play nice with any cheap-o memory. I agree with 5x5, the 212 is a waste of money. The arctic freezer 34 is practically the same thing and it's cheaper. I'd suggest buying an aircooler because afaik the h55 is a pretty old model. If yours is older than 3-4 years, I don't think it's gonna last much longer anyways. The aforementioned arctic would be the cheapest cooler I'd put on a 3700x, though I'd personally would get something beefier. The stock cooler would probably do the job, but it would be too loud for me. arctic freezer 34 (non esport, non CO) thermalright true spirit 140 power thermalright true spirit 140 direct thermalright silver arrow ib-e noctua nh d15 noctua nh u12a be quiet dark rock 4 be quiet dark rock pro 4

alright. I'd suggest you look up some reviews on the nhu12a, be quiet dark rock 4 pro, thermalright silver arrow ib-e, and nhd15. All of them should easily fit in your case. You MIGHT have to reduce the OC to 4.6, but I think it's worth it.

There is a huge ass hole on the "case" for radiators. That means it fits radiators and pumps too. Thermaltake are shit designers alright, but even they know to make enough space for a radiator+fans+pumpres. Get that kit and figure it out (I hope you know that you will have to build it yourself). It will fit. If it doesn't, thermaltake is an even bigger joke than I thought.

Somehow remove that corner of the fan frame. A dremel/rotary tool would be optimal, though you could probably use a drill + metal cutting clippers. Hopefully it would fit like that. Maybe route the 8pin from the front so it has more wiggleroom.

switch to air.. Why do you have an aio? A noctua nh-u12a is 158mm tall, it should fit most cases. It's competitive with aios, probably a lot less noisy and cheaper. 10/10 reliability and ease of maintenance

I just wanted to add that I have an spc60 mx pumpres from an ek kits240, which is running strong since 2016 july. It required just a minor tweak

That's quite an old cooler. It's about time for it to die... That's aios for you

I was able to run my 2700 at 4.0 all core with an arctic feezer 34. It's a 20usd 4 heatpipe 120mm cooler... (fyi it tops out at 4.1) From what I've seen you can't really OC a 3700x either. If you want it to be silent and as cheap as possible, get any noctua, arctic, be quiet or thermalright cooler with 6 or more heatpipes and at least 120mm fan. Unless you really really really want an aio in your system, I'd suggest an nh-u12a because it's small (<160mm) and powerful af. I bet you could run it at starting pwm, so it would be perfectly silent. It is quite pricey, but still less expensive than some of those aios you listed. Another plus is that it has a much smaller chance of dying. I'm sure the fans will outlive any aio you could purchase today

I didn't listen to your video cuz I can't right now. I had an issue with my ekwb pump once, it sounded like there was a bubble in it. The actual problem was that a piece of metal on the impeller's shaft got worn, so the impeller had some axial play. I made some plastic washers out of a piece of thick foil I had lying around, and it's fine ever since. This would explain why your aio doesnt make a sound when it's horizontal. Gravity stabilizes the impeller and it stops moving up and down

10/13 works well for me...

Unless it's fun for you to make it absolutely perfect, don't worry about this.

that's a flawless setup. In my experience when the fans are pulling through the rad they make more noise. This way you'll have to remove the fans to clean the rad, but I think the silence is worth it.

what do you mean by "longer"

Have you seen the new ekwb drgb aios? If you really don't want a custom loop, that's your best bet (or an old ek predator). Drgb block and fans, and it's expandable and possible to maintain. Alphacool aios are even better, but they are not all that pretty, plain black everything. The arctic seems good, too, but I'm not sure how easy it would be to maintain. I wouldn't even consider anything other than these 3. Most aios have a limited life and use. You can't expand them or use the radiator in another build, or fix them (easily) if/when they clog up or the pump dies. Any reason why you chose the 10900k over the 3900x? That ram should be good with ryzen, too. Since money doesn't seem to be an issue, I'd say don't look at anything other than Samsung Kingston or Intel. Just make sure there aren't any rgb leds on the thing. Regarding the 2070, watch out for the diminishing returns. The expensive models are not 20% faster.. At that point you'd be better off with a "cheap" 2080s. If I was in the market for one, I think I'd just buy the cheapest 2-3 fan zotac, pny, palit, or gigabyte. I have no idea what could utilize that psu. Maybe a multigpu threadripper build? Even 800 watts is pretty high for a modern system. At least it's gonna be silent i guess

I have an spc60 mx pumpres combo, and it seems like the new drgb aios have an improved spc in them (seen in GN teardown video). I saw a video where the guy refilled his generic asetek aio, and based off that my spc60's flow rate at starting rpm (through 2 240mm rads and 1 cpu block) is higher the asetek aio's at maximum. Mine seems like 3 times as strong as the asetek at 100%, so I'm sure the drgb aio is even better. With an added gpu block and 240 rad the flow would be better than in a normal asetek aio. If their's is good enough, an expanded ekwb drgb kit will be a lot better than good enough. I'm sure if, for whatever reason, the drgb aio's pump failed, you could just remove the impeller and install a separate pump in the loop (though I'd say it's highely unlikely, because my old spc's been running flawlessly for the past 4 years)

in my experience a pull config is more noisy. The other difference is aesthetics, you can decide what you wanna see, the fans or the rad. Some people (like linus) use pull configs to make the radiator's front more accessible for cleaning. I'm not sure about this one, but based off how much gn steve complains about it, I assume using round-framed fans in pull is more effective cause they have pressure leaks around the corners. That would be eliminated in pull. Though it's probably only a few degrees of difference

why not just put fan grills on a 140mm or 200mm fan and build/buy a flexible arm for it? You will hear any 120-140mm 1500+ rpm fan in a home setting, some might just be less annoying/intrusive. If you are like me and any kind of noise bothers you, you are better off with a standalone fan on the table or on an arm. You could even attach as many 120-200mm fans as possible to the frame of your bladeless fan, so it would provide some rotation. Fyi before I had aircon, in the summer I would have a 120mm CM jetflo blowing across my table, which was whisper quiet (~1200rpm) and it genuinely made my hands cold. I'm sure a high airflow noctua would be even better

wait, they don't say the word cause it's trademarked and they are afraid of copyright strikes?

I think you mean velcro. Yes, you plug in everything. If it fits it sits. Simple. Stick one piece of velcro on the hub, the other piece to the case. Bang it's installed.