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(SOLVED) PC turns off without warning then turns on immdiately

WEIBO

Hi, this bothers me all the time. Appreciate any suggestion.

Let me discribe the whole situation. After it is assambled, sometimes there's blue screen when using. Finally I found it could be the motherboard RAM slot problem. I switched the two rams to the other two slots, not going blue screen anymore. Then maybe two months later, the desktop starts to turn off without any warning and then immdiatelly turns back on and ask me to log into WIN10 like nothing happened for like around twice per day. When it goes off, cannot see any flash of the lights or any other electrical appliance. I don't use any UPS currently.  I tried to check the connection between the power supply and the motherboard and I think it is tight. Yesterday it even turned off during my checking the BIOS, so probably it is nothing to do with the software. (I checked BIOS because on the webpage of the RAM it is said 1.35v but in BIOS it is only 1.2v. But it turned out to be the 1.35v is the tested votage and 1.2 is the PSD votage so it should be fine?)

I am thinking about three parts:

1. RAM itself

2. Power Supply

3. MD

But I dont know other ways except for buying new ones and replace these one by one to confirm the problem. Or it could be the connections between those?

Please tell me if there's more info I should provide. Especting for any help! Thanks!

 

 

Here's the part list:

MB: ASUS Prime X370-Pro AMD Ryzen AM4 DDR4 DP HDMI M.2 USB 3.1 ATX X370 Motherboard

cpu: AMD Ryzen 7 1700X

RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3200 (PC4 25600)

VideoCard: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 FTW GAMING ACX 3.0, 08G-P4-6286-KR, 8GB GDDR5X, RGB LED, 10CM FAN, 10 Power Phases, Double BIOS, DX12 OSD Support (PXOC)

ssd: Samsung 850 EVO 500GB 2.5-Inch SATA III Internal SSD    

HD: WD Black 2TB Performance Desktop Hard Disk Drive - 7200 RPM SATA 6Gb/s 64MB Cache 3.5 Inch - WD2003FZEX

Power: EVGA SuperNOVA 650 G2, 80+ GOLD 650W

cooling: Corsair Hydro Series H110i Extreme Performance Water / Liquid CPU Cooler Cooling. 280mm

 

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5 minutes ago, WEIBO said:

Hi, this bothers me all the time. Appreciate any suggestion.

Let me discribe the whole situation. After it is assambled, sometimes there's blue screen when using. Finally I found it could be the motherboard RAM slot problem. I switched the two rams to the other two slots, not going blue screen anymore. Then maybe two months later, the desktop starts to turn off without any warning and then immdiatelly turns back on and ask me to log into WIN10 like nothing happened for like around twice per day. When it goes off, cannot see any flash of the lights or any other electrical appliance. I don't use any UPS currently.  I tried to check the connection between the power supply and the motherboard and I think it is tight. Yesterday it even turned off during my checking the BIOS, so probably it is nothing to do with the software. (I checked BIOS because on the webpage of the RAM it is said 1.35v but in BIOS it is only 1.2v. But it turned out to be the 1.35v is the tested votage and 1.2 is the PSD votage so it should be fine?)

I am thinking about three parts:

1. RAM itself

2. Power Supply

3. MD

But I dont know other ways except for buying new ones and replace these one by one to confirm the problem. Or it could be the connections between those?

Please tell me if there's more info I should provide. Especting for any help! Thanks!

 

 

Here's the part list:

MB: ASUS Prime X370-Pro AMD Ryzen AM4 DDR4 DP HDMI M.2 USB 3.1 ATX X370 Motherboard

cpu: AMD Ryzen 7 1700X

RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3200 (PC4 25600)

VideoCard: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 FTW GAMING ACX 3.0, 08G-P4-6286-KR, 8GB GDDR5X, RGB LED, 10CM FAN, 10 Power Phases, Double BIOS, DX12 OSD Support (PXOC)

ssd: Samsung 850 EVO 500GB 2.5-Inch SATA III Internal SSD    

HD: WD Black 2TB Performance Desktop Hard Disk Drive - 7200 RPM SATA 6Gb/s 64MB Cache 3.5 Inch - WD2003FZEX

Power: EVGA SuperNOVA 650 G2, 80+ GOLD 650W

cooling: Corsair Hydro Series H110i Extreme Performance Water / Liquid CPU Cooler Cooling. 280mm

 

Any overclocks on the CPU? 

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Unfortunately this can potentially be a very tricky issue. Once I had the same situation as you described, but it was a combination of the graphics card and the power supply.

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It could always be a faulty PC part to say the least, I highly doubt it's a software issue.

 

I'd look into PSU and the mainboard. Check if every connector and pin is connected properly. I had these problems as well, both with loose connections and a faulty PSU. If you keep going much longer like this you could end up with a lot more damage on your PC (if it is the PSU).

i5 7600K / Gigabyte R9 280X Windforce / Corsair Vengeance 8GB 3000/ Asus Prime Z270-P / beQuiet PowerZone 650W / Fractal Design Define S

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GROUP B - The Golden Era of Rallying :x

 

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6 minutes ago, Dreaper said:

Any overclocks on the CPU? 

No. not any OC

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you need to watch power supply voltages if possible up till the point it happens.

 

sounds like it could be a vdroop problem. voltage drops off, causing system to just halt in the middle of operation.

 

kinda like when the battery in your phone gets old and it dies at 10, 20%... it's due to it not being able to maintain appropriate voltage without random "dips", some of which are severe enough to cause the device to shut off.

 

(which is exactly what apple was trying to prevent with their throttling that everyone was complaining about which I don't get but w/e thats another topic)

"If a Lobster is a fish because it moves by jumping, then a kangaroo is a bird" - Admiral Paulo de Castro Moreira da Silva

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

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2 minutes ago, Rappalores said:

It could always be a faulty PC part to say the least, I highly doubt it's a software issue.

 

I'd look into PSU and the mainboard. Check if every connector and pin is connected properly. I had these problems as well, both with loose connections and a faulty PSU. If you keep going much longer like this you could end up with a lot more damage on your PC (if it is the PSU).

Thank you! If it is software then it should not happen during BIOS right? I'll double check the wires from the powersupply and every pin. Last time I unpluged them all and set them back but it didn't solve the problem.

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3 minutes ago, WEIBO said:

Thank you! If it is software then it should not happen during BIOS right? I'll double check the wires from the powersupply and every pin. Last time I unpluged them all and set them back but it didn't solve the problem.

When I had an issue like this, it could happen after 20 minutes in game, 2 hours of idle, or immediately on start-up. It ended up being a faulty PSU. The faulty PSU in question was an EVGA SuperNOVA 850 P2. 

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4 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

you need to watch power supply voltages if possible up till the point it happens.

 

sounds like it could be a vdroop problem. voltage drops off, causing system to just halt in the middle of operation.

 

kinda like when the battery in your phone gets old and it dies at 10, 20%... it's due to it not being able to maintain appropriate voltage without random "dips", some of which are severe enough to cause the device to shut off.

 

(which is exactly what apple was trying to prevent with their throttling that everyone was complaining about which I don't get but w/e thats another topic)

Thank you! You mean it is the powersupply itself cannot maintain the voltage? Or it is the surge thing going into the power supply caused the problem. Is there a way to monitoring the voltage number all the time?

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3 minutes ago, Unimaginative Name said:

When I had an issue like this, it could happen after 20 minutes in game, 2 hours of idle, or immediately on start-up. It ended up being a faulty PSU. The faulty PSU in question was an EVGA SuperNOVA 850 P2. 

Thanks. Ok, maybe I need to by a higher watt powersupply of other brand first to see if it is the powersupply's problem.

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2 minutes ago, WEIBO said:

Thanks. Ok, maybe I need to by a higher watt powersupply of other brand first to see if it is the powersupply's problem.

You don't need a higher watt PSU. And you don't even need to buy anything other than EVGA. The G and P series are generally very good units, but electronics can sometimes be weird. Unfortunately, unless you have another PSU, there really isn't any way to test unless you have an alternate PSU. I was fairly certain it was the PSU when I turned off the ECO switch and the PSU fan would run at 100%, 100% of the time. Making me think that the ECO mode somehow caused no fan usage at all, causing repeated PSU overheats, lowering the effective capacity to where it could no longer power the system. But that's just my guess. BTW...EVGA was great with the RMA process.

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4 minutes ago, WEIBO said:

Thanks. Ok, maybe I need to by a higher watt powersupply of other brand first to see if it is the powersupply's problem.

if you have a local store with PC parts near you, you could probably ask them if you could get one just to test and ask if they'll let you return after a short time.

while you could not say anything, they don't like people who do that. But if you get permission first... sometimes they are nice and let you. A local best buy let me buy and return some RAM once in this way.

"If a Lobster is a fish because it moves by jumping, then a kangaroo is a bird" - Admiral Paulo de Castro Moreira da Silva

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

Spoiler

Intel Core i7-3960X @ 4.6 GHz - Asus P9X79WS/IPMI - 12GB DDR3-1600 quad-channel - EVGA GTX 1080ti SC - Fractal Design Define R5 - 500GB Crucial MX200 - NH-D15 - Logitech G710+ - Mionix Naos 7000 - Sennheiser PC350 w/Topping VX-1

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3 minutes ago, Unimaginative Name said:

You don't need a higher watt PSU. And you don't even need to buy anything other than EVGA. The G and P series are generally very good units, but electronics can sometimes be weird. Unfortunately, unless you have another PSU, there really isn't any way to test unless you have an alternate PSU. I was fairly certain it was the PSU when I turned off the ECO switch and the PSU fan would run at 100%, 100% of the time. Making me think that the ECO mode somehow caused no fan usage at all, causing repeated PSU overheats, lowering the effective capacity to where it could no longer power the system. But that's just my guess. BTW...EVGA was great with the RMA process.

Yeah this is my first time to DIY a PC. I did research and bought EVGA G. Thanks again!

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6 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

if you have a local store with PC parts near you, you could probably ask them if you could get one just to test and ask if they'll let you return after a short time.

while you could not say anything, they don't like people who do that. But if you get permission first... sometimes they are nice and let you. A local best buy let me buy and return some RAM once in this way.

Yeah, I can try. I noticed that online retailer may have a open box return fee like 15% for NEWEGG. Thanks.

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-Moved to Troubleshooting-

 

In addition to what everyone else has suggested, I would also try testing everything you can individually. Going by what I've read, I would take a guess that it's either the RAM, motherboard, or PSU that's causing this so testing those would be a good idea.

Quote or tag me( @Crunchy Dragon) if you want me to see your reply

If a post solved your problem/answered your question, please consider marking it as "solved"

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Have to admit stupid young me bought a 40€ 750W PSU with NO protection mechanisms and well, after not even one year it randomly shut off ect.

 

So yea, if you have a old quality PSU lying around try it out, plug out your GPU if you have to and see if that works.

i5 7600K / Gigabyte R9 280X Windforce / Corsair Vengeance 8GB 3000/ Asus Prime Z270-P / beQuiet PowerZone 650W / Fractal Design Define S

240GB+480GB SSD / 2TB Seagate Barracuda / Alpenföhn Brocken Eco / Lioncast LK30 / Razer Deathadder 2013 / t.bone SC 440 / Plantronics RIG500 / Sennheiser CX 3.00

 

GROUP B - The Golden Era of Rallying :x

 

My Steam Profile (from SteamDB)

 

  • Worth: $1843 ($491 with sales)
  • Games owned: 129
  • Games played: 103 (79%)
  • Hours on record: 6,564.3h
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4 minutes ago, Crunchy Dragon said:

-Moved to Troubleshooting-

 

In addition to what everyone else has suggested, I would also try testing everything you can individually. Going by what I've read, I would take a guess that it's either the RAM, motherboard, or PSU that's causing this so testing those would be a good idea.

Thanks! Sorry for posting at the wrong place.

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1 minute ago, WEIBO said:

Thanks! Sorry for posting at the wrong place.

No worries, it's all good.

 

Welcome to the forums!

Quote or tag me( @Crunchy Dragon) if you want me to see your reply

If a post solved your problem/answered your question, please consider marking it as "solved"

Community Standards // Join Floatplane!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Problem solved. I took the pc to a computer repair store and it ran without any problem there for more than an hour. Then they montioned it could be a surge issue. So before they run a whole test, I took it home and bought an UPS for it. It worked like a charm for almost a week. Although I had a fancy surge protector outlet, I guess it only protects the high wave? But in my case it is the low point that caused the issue.

Thanks to everyone who replied!

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