Aquaero 6xt setup help

Voxels-Box · March 26, 2018

(Not sure if this is the best place to post this, but seemed fitting)

This is the PC im working on:

Im about to start doing the wiring for the Aquaero 6xt. I have a couple questions about how the connections work, mostly just a sanity check before I commit to the cable lengths and such.

Parts used in this config:

Aquaero 6xt with heatsink
AQC D5 Pump with Aquabus
2x Splitty 9 (3x Corsair HD120 each)
1x Hubby
2x Phobya 4 way PWM splitters (2x Corsair ML120s on one. 2nd splitter is spare)
1x Darkside Dimmable UV LED strip with a 3pin fan header
3x temp sensor fittings
a couple temp probes

Questions:

1. Can the Hubby be used to control other USB devices? (like the Corsair Node Pro and Corsair HX750i) I noticed that the USB connection to the mobo is only a 5 pin, yet the Hubby's input ports are 10pin.

2. Can a fan channel be used to control the brightness of the UV LED strip? Would the fan percentage translate to light output?

3. Will I have any issues with the Phobya splitters, since they arent made by AQC? I dont think so, but I want to double check.

4. Will any 4pin splitter work as an Aquabus splitter? I have a Y cable or the Phobya, and im curious in case I add something later.

5. Here's what Im planning for the wires. If anything looks wrong, let me know!

AQ6 would connect via aquabus to the pump
3 fan channels would be used for the 3 splitters with 4pin male to male
1 fan channel to the 3pin UV strip (Or would this go to the rgb channel even though its 1 color?)
AQ6 would connect via usb to the Hubby, which would connect to the motherboard
temp sensors connect to those pins

Thanks for any info!

W-L · March 26, 2018

@Revan654 Has a lot of experience with the Aquacomputer controllers. The Hubby unit is an internal USB hub so it should work as a regular splitter.

Revan654 · March 26, 2018

49 minutes ago, Voxels-Box said:

(Not sure if this is the best place to post this, but seemed fitting)

This is the PC im working on:

Im about to start doing the wiring for the Aquaero 6xt. I have a couple questions about how the connections work, mostly just a sanity check before I commit to the cable lengths and such.

Parts used in this config:

Aquaero 6xt with heatsink

AQC D5 Pump with Aquabus

2x Splitty 9 (3x Corsair HD120 each)

1x Hubby

2x Phobya 4 way PWM splitters (2x Corsair ML120s on one. 2nd splitter is spare)

1x Darkside Dimmable UV LED strip with a 3pin fan header

3x temp sensor fittings

a couple temp probes

Questions:

1. Can the Hubby be used to control other USB devices? (like the Corsair Node Pro and Corsair HX750i) I noticed that the USB connection to the mobo is only a 5 pin, yet the Hubby's input ports are 10pin.

2. Can a fan channel be used to control the brightness of the UV LED strip? Would the fan percentage translate to light output?

3. Will I have any issues with the Phobya splitters, since they arent made by AQC? I dont think so, but I want to double check.

4. Will any 4pin splitter work as an Aquabus splitter? I have a Y cable or the Phobya, and im curious in case I add something later.

5. Here's what Im planning for the wires. If anything looks wrong, let me know!

AQ6 would connect via aquabus to the pump

3 fan channels would be used for the 3 splitters with 4pin male to male

1 fan channel to the 3pin UV strip (Or would this go to the rgb channel even though its 1 color?)

AQ6 would connect via usb to the Hubby, which would connect to the motherboard

temp sensors connect to those pins

Thanks for any info!

- Phobya splitter I have no idea if they will work correctly on ML Fans. I know Splitty9 does work. If you start to hear the fans produce more noise then they should or start to grind then you know there not working correctly.

- Hubby7: All Aqua-Computer devices are five Pin and uses a five pin to connect to the motherboard. Since none of the AQ devices require more voltage then five pins.

- Yes, They can control the brightness of LED strip. You just need to drop the voltage(Run them on DC instead of RPM or PWM). DarkSide: 5v dimmed | 12v : Full. I have my LED UV lights like this but on PowerAdjust 3.

- Y Cables from Phobya are not true PWM cables(I have a bunch of them). Since only one connection is PWM and the rest only have 3 pins. It uses the first PWM and copy's the signal to the rest. I suggest getting Splitty9 board for this, Since there designed for Fans and splitting the Aquabus signal. You can just get 3-pin cable splitter and use 3-pin cables on all your aqua-bus devices. Since 4-pin cables are only needed when there no USB connection, Since USB connection is needed to update the firmware you can use 3-pin cable. There no real down side to using 4-pin cables.

- Make note of USB connection, So go BB__R and others go R__BB. The will not show up if there plugged in wrong.

- I would plug it into a fan header, You can plug it into a RGB header but it gives you no control over brightness and ability to switch it off if you want.

Voxels-Box · March 26, 2018

24 minutes ago, Revan654 said:

- Phobya splitter I have no idea if they will work correctly on ML Fans. I know Splitty9 does work. If you start to hear the fans produce more noise then they should or start to grind then you know there not working correctly.

- Hubby7: All Aqua-Computer devices are five Pin and uses a five pin to connect to the motherboard. Since none of the AQ devices require more voltage then five pins.

- Yes, They can control the brightness of LED strip. You just need to drop the voltage(Run them on DC instead of RPM or PWM). DarkSide: 5v dimmed | 12v : Full. I have my LED UV lights like this but on PowerAdjust 3.

- Y Cables from Phobya are not true PWM cables(I have a bunch of them). Since only one connection is PWM and the rest only have 3 pins. It uses the first PWM and copy's the signal to the rest. I suggest getting Splitty9 board for this, Since there designed for Fans and splitting the Aquabus signal. You can just get 3-pin cable splitter and use 3-pin cables on all your aqua-bus devices. Since 4-pin cables are only needed when there no USB connection, Since USB connection is needed to update the firmware you can use 3-pin cable. There no real down side to using 4-pin cables.

- Make note of USB connection, So go BB__R and others go R__BB. The will not show up if there plugged in wrong.

- I would plug it into a fan header, You can plug it into a RGB header but it gives you no control over brightness and ability to switch it off if you want.

Thank you for all the info!

I checked my order history, and the Y cable I have is from Darkside. Do you know if that functions any different to the Phobya? I think the pump is the only device that needs aquabus currently, so I suppose it isnt a big concern.

For the Hubby 7, does that mean that its only compatible with AQ devices? The HX750i uses a 5 pin usb (with a 10pin connector), and I believe the Node Pro is 7 wires.

Ill use the fan channel for the UV strip.

Ill keep that all in mind, thanks!

Revan654 · March 27, 2018

20 hours ago, Voxels-Box said:

Thank you for all the info!

I checked my order history, and the Y cable I have is from Darkside. Do you know if that functions any different to the Phobya? I think the pump is the only device that needs aquabus currently, so I suppose it isnt a big concern.

For the Hubby 7, does that mean that its only compatible with AQ devices? The HX750i uses a 5 pin usb (with a 10pin connector), and I believe the Node Pro is 7 wires.

Ill use the fan channel for the UV strip.

Ill keep that all in mind, thanks!

- DarkSide PWM Y Cable is designed the same.

- From what I know about the Corsair Link USB cable. It uses a 10 pin connector but only four pins are used. You could replace the housing to five pin housing if you every need access to the bottom row. It's mainly used for Communication. It doesn't draw allot of power.