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Hey peepz,

As mentioned in the title - I'm a first time builder and looking for tips & any bit of advice I can get for setting up my pc.

I'm going to list my choice of components, sadly it's too late to change anything, but any important/relevant information as to my choices will be taken into account!

Partlist :

-CPU : Ryzen 1600
(Using stock cooler, upgrade later)
- Mobo : Asus Prime B350 plus
- RAM : Ballistix Sport LT DDR4 2 x 4 Go 2666 MHz CAS 16 SR
- SSD/bootdrive : Samsung 960 evo NVME m.2
- GPU : EVGA SSC gtx 1060 6b
- Power sup. : EVGA white 600w
- HDD : Barracuda 1to 
- Case : Fractal focus G


First of all, i'll kick off with asking if there's anything worth notice during the build with theese components?

I've heard it's important to update the BIOS, this Mobo has native Nvme/m.2 compatibility, will it still need the update in order to install windows to the ssd? USB uefi is ready. How important is the BIOS update?

Staying on the NVME (I know it's overkill for this rig) - Are there any 'expected' issues to know about? -I have been reading up on afew issues an reading through some guides in order to do the first install, and it kind of has me worried.

During the proces of installing windows, I've heard left and right that there is a 'fastboot' or something in that order ( Going into f11 instead of the regular f2), could someone clarify this? I haven't been able to find any relative information to my case.

What are your thoughts on 'Safe' value OC'ing - I haven't OC'd before, i'm just looking for some free performance, nothing that'll put my components at risk.


Feel free to add any advice, answer unasked questions and so on.

Looking forward to building this baby!

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Place the IO shield in first. Also when placing the motherboard looks at the IO sheild to make sure that the pins aren't being pushed out.

My Rig

CPU - Ryzen 5 1600@3.8ghz          GPU - XFX XXX RX580 8g          Cooler - Arctic Freezer 33 eSports edition green          Motherboard - Gigabyte AB350 Gaming 3          Ram -  G.Skill 2x8 Ripjaws 5 2666                   Case - Pahntecs P400s TGE Modded with Green accents          PSU - Seasonic M1211 evo 620w          SSD - Samsung 960 evo 500 GB          HDD - Seagate Barracuda 7200rpm 2tb       

 Fans - 2 be quiet SilentWings 3         OS - Windows 10 Home 64-Bit         Cables - Cable Mod Green Cable Extension

 Peripherals

Mouse - Logitech G502          Keyboard - k95 Platinum Brown          Headset - Philips SHP9500s + Vmoda Boom Pro          Monitor - LG 29UM69GB

Webcam - USB webcam for Wii Fitness game xD

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21 minutes ago, Siochain said:

 

If you don't already own a GPU you should just save some money for next generation GPUs, and use a Ryzen APU system in the meantime.

I edit my posts a lot, Twitter is @LordStreetguru just don't ask PC questions there mostly...
 

Spoiler

 

What is your budget/country for your new PC?

 

what monitor resolution/refresh rate?

 

What games or other software do you need to run?

 

 

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Put ram, cpu, cooler, mobo together and then plug in psu to test if it works outside of the case. You will have to use a screwdriver to short 2 power pins. You might as well put in your ssd to the motherboard cause it will be easier.

My Rig

CPU - Ryzen 5 1600@3.8ghz          GPU - XFX XXX RX580 8g          Cooler - Arctic Freezer 33 eSports edition green          Motherboard - Gigabyte AB350 Gaming 3          Ram -  G.Skill 2x8 Ripjaws 5 2666                   Case - Pahntecs P400s TGE Modded with Green accents          PSU - Seasonic M1211 evo 620w          SSD - Samsung 960 evo 500 GB          HDD - Seagate Barracuda 7200rpm 2tb       

 Fans - 2 be quiet SilentWings 3         OS - Windows 10 Home 64-Bit         Cables - Cable Mod Green Cable Extension

 Peripherals

Mouse - Logitech G502          Keyboard - k95 Platinum Brown          Headset - Philips SHP9500s + Vmoda Boom Pro          Monitor - LG 29UM69GB

Webcam - USB webcam for Wii Fitness game xD

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If at all possible, return the PSU, and get one that isn't utter and complete garbage. If you can not, save up for a PSU that's not utter and complete garbage, and get one of those. Delay the build if needed. 

As long as the motherboard has a version with Agesa code 1006 or newer, it's fine, no need to update. 

Shouldn't be much issues specifically with an NVMe drive, especially for a boot drive.

Overclock the CPU as far as you can go, until you reach a voltage of 1,4V in BIOS (often there won't be any benefit by even going to 1,4V), or reach temperatures in the high 80s. With that motherboard, you should be able to push the CPU to the point where the stock cooler is the limiting factor. And that's where you should stop. Or point a fan at it, if you want to push the CPU further with a better cooler.

:)

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Thank you all for your answers,

 

Is the IO on the mobo really helpful or just a preference? So long as it's in there correctly ofc.

 

As for the APU - I found out when my build was ready that Nvdia is bringing out their new gpu's sometime soon, but i'm quite happy not having the latest & greatest so I just headed on, I might come to regret this decision if the prices are MSRP... Time will tell!

 

Could you elaborate on the PSU - What makes it a bad choice and what should i be looking for in terms of upgrade? 80 + and bronze or higher? What are the risks (if any) involved in the use of the currently planned one?

 

I'm starting to read up on the OC'ing, Do the numbers involve any risk ? ( Due to PSU maybe?)

 

A lot of answers will lead to more questions on my behalf, i'm curious and eager to understand this better!

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I find mounting the i/o shield on the motherboard first, (as opposed to mounting it in the case and inserting the motherboard), insures that the grounding tongues make good contact with the sides of the various connector housings. 

 

80+ ratings certify electrical efficiency, not build quality. For that information one needs to consult reviews. A typical system with a GTX 1060 gpu does not need a psu above 450W. At that capacity the CX450 and CX450M are an very good compromise between quality and price.

80+ ratings certify electrical efficiency. Not quality.

 

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4 minutes ago, Siochain said:

Thank you all for your answers,

 

Is the IO on the mobo really helpful or just a preference? So long as it's in there correctly ofc.

 

As for the APU - I found out when my build was ready that Nvdia is bringing out their new gpu's sometime soon, but i'm quite happy not having the latest & greatest so I just headed on, I might come to regret this decision if the prices are MSRP... Time will tell!

 

Could you elaborate on the PSU - What makes it a bad choice and what should i be looking for in terms of upgrade? 80 + and bronze or higher? What are the risks (if any) involved in the use of the currently planned one?

 

I'm starting to read up on the OC'ing, Do the numbers involve any risk ? ( Due to PSU maybe?)

 

A lot of answers will lead to more questions on my behalf, i'm curious and eager to understand this better!

The IO? do you mean the shield or all the ports. If the ports, you need them for ethernet and a lot of usb. The shield isnt needed surprisingly, but I would reccomend it to block out dust and so you won't break a port.

 

The PSU is a bad choice because when PSU's go they go violently usually taking a gpu, cpu, motherboard or multiple other items with them. Cheap ones can also catch fire soooo. What makes a PSU bad is its capacitors and its protections. The 80 plus rating is not a good way of determining the quality of a PSU , but you should not get anything worse than 80 plus bronze. Good PSU options are anything seasonic, certain EVGA, and many corsair ones are also good. If you buy a corsair don't get a green label one. An m12II evo or s12II evo from seasonic are pretty good for the price. The corsair CX550 and CX650 are pretty good options too.

 

For overclocking, it is always risky. There is a chance that you could burn out your CPU. Also I wouldn't go above 1.34 because usually the amount going to the CPU isn't the same number you type in. Gamer's nexus showed this in a video. If your CPU temps are good, there could also be VRM problems in which the VRM gets too hot. If your a first time overclocker just go for an easy 1.3 volts or +0.1 offset. The other problems are if there isn't enough voltage there could get a blue screen of death so that could be annoying.

 

Also, welcome to the forum, and remember to quote people by clicking the arrow at the bottom of their post so that they can see you responded or do @Siochain except write their names. That's the only way they can see you responded. 

My Rig

CPU - Ryzen 5 1600@3.8ghz          GPU - XFX XXX RX580 8g          Cooler - Arctic Freezer 33 eSports edition green          Motherboard - Gigabyte AB350 Gaming 3          Ram -  G.Skill 2x8 Ripjaws 5 2666                   Case - Pahntecs P400s TGE Modded with Green accents          PSU - Seasonic M1211 evo 620w          SSD - Samsung 960 evo 500 GB          HDD - Seagate Barracuda 7200rpm 2tb       

 Fans - 2 be quiet SilentWings 3         OS - Windows 10 Home 64-Bit         Cables - Cable Mod Green Cable Extension

 Peripherals

Mouse - Logitech G502          Keyboard - k95 Platinum Brown          Headset - Philips SHP9500s + Vmoda Boom Pro          Monitor - LG 29UM69GB

Webcam - USB webcam for Wii Fitness game xD

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6 minutes ago, brob said:

I find mounting the i/o shield on the motherboard first, (as opposed to mounting it in the case and inserting the motherboard), insures that the grounding tongues make good contact with the sides of the various connector housings. 

 

80+ ratings certify electrical efficiency, not build quality. For that information one needs to consult reviews. A typical system with a GTX 1060 gpu does not need a psu above 450W. At that capacity the CX450 and CX450M are an very good compromise between quality and price.

Agreed except id reccomend something with a bit more juice so he could upgrade his GPU down the line.

My Rig

CPU - Ryzen 5 1600@3.8ghz          GPU - XFX XXX RX580 8g          Cooler - Arctic Freezer 33 eSports edition green          Motherboard - Gigabyte AB350 Gaming 3          Ram -  G.Skill 2x8 Ripjaws 5 2666                   Case - Pahntecs P400s TGE Modded with Green accents          PSU - Seasonic M1211 evo 620w          SSD - Samsung 960 evo 500 GB          HDD - Seagate Barracuda 7200rpm 2tb       

 Fans - 2 be quiet SilentWings 3         OS - Windows 10 Home 64-Bit         Cables - Cable Mod Green Cable Extension

 Peripherals

Mouse - Logitech G502          Keyboard - k95 Platinum Brown          Headset - Philips SHP9500s + Vmoda Boom Pro          Monitor - LG 29UM69GB

Webcam - USB webcam for Wii Fitness game xD

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5 hours ago, Vandorlot said:

Good PSU options are anything seasonic, certain EVGA, and many corsair ones are also good. If you buy a corsair don't get a green label one. An m12II evo or s12II evo from seasonic are pretty good for the price.

The S12 and M12 are ancient, and really overpriced. More info in this thread.

 

:)

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5 hours ago, Siochain said:

Is the IO on the mobo really helpful or just a preference? So long as it's in there correctly ofc.

The IO shield can help with grounding, but it's not strictly necessary. The PC also looks quite silly without one.

5 hours ago, Siochain said:

Could you elaborate on the PSU - What makes it a bad choice and what should i be looking for in terms of upgrade? 80 + and bronze or higher? What are the risks (if any) involved in the use of the currently planned one?

Typically, low end PSUs use a bad design, use bad components, lack protections and have a short warranty. They have poor regulation (how stable the voltage output is depending on the load), and can have a lot of ripple. That puts more strain on the other components, and will kill them over time. The use of bad components will shorten the life of the PSU itself, and makes the PSU more likely to fail. 

80+ ratings are just efficiency, and don't say anything about how good the PSU is. A decent PSU doesn't have to be very expensive. The CX450M is often available for quite cheap. 

5 hours ago, Siochain said:

I'm starting to read up on the OC'ing, Do the numbers involve any risk ? ( Due to PSU maybe?)

Too high voltage over time can degrade the component, and eventually kill it. Under 1,4V you should be safe. 

:)

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16 hours ago, seon123 said:

The S12 and M12 are ancient, and really overpriced. More info in this thread.

 

Wow I never knew that. I was kinda biased in recommending it because I have one, but a lot of people said it was good when I asked for a PSU. I got a 620 watt m12II evo for 20 dollars a year ago so im fine with my purchase.

My Rig

CPU - Ryzen 5 1600@3.8ghz          GPU - XFX XXX RX580 8g          Cooler - Arctic Freezer 33 eSports edition green          Motherboard - Gigabyte AB350 Gaming 3          Ram -  G.Skill 2x8 Ripjaws 5 2666                   Case - Pahntecs P400s TGE Modded with Green accents          PSU - Seasonic M1211 evo 620w          SSD - Samsung 960 evo 500 GB          HDD - Seagate Barracuda 7200rpm 2tb       

 Fans - 2 be quiet SilentWings 3         OS - Windows 10 Home 64-Bit         Cables - Cable Mod Green Cable Extension

 Peripherals

Mouse - Logitech G502          Keyboard - k95 Platinum Brown          Headset - Philips SHP9500s + Vmoda Boom Pro          Monitor - LG 29UM69GB

Webcam - USB webcam for Wii Fitness game xD

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