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I have backups with my Seagate external drive. I am using Seagate DiscWizard. I have not reset Windows in a while. This computer just randomly crashes, and usually, it might be doing something small, but it's never under full load.

 

All I need is clear instructions on what someone needs to help me determine if this needs physical repair or if the software is the issue.

Screenshot (4).png

Case: Dark Base Pro 900 (Black/Orange)
CPU: Ryzen 5900x
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 (LTT Special Edition)
Graphics Card: RTX 3090 Founders Edition
Motherboard: ASUS ROG Strix B550-F Gaming
RAM: Team T-Force Night Hawk RGB 32GB DDR4 3000 (2 x 16GB)
Storage (Boot): Samsung 990 PRO 2TB NVMe

Storage (Secondary): Samsung 980 PRO 2TB NVMe

Storage (Secondary): Samsung 850 EVO 1TB SATA III
Storage (Secondary): SanDisk Ultra II 960GB SATA III
Storage (Secondary): 2x Seagate 4TB SSHD (yes, really, solid-state hybrid drives in 2023)
PSU: Corsair RM1000x (80+ Gold)
OS: Windows 10 Home
Keyboard: Razer BlackWidow V3 Pro (with Razer Yellows)

Mouse: Razer Viper Ultimate Wireless
Mousemat: Razer Firefly Chroma Mousepad 2016
Headset: Logitech G533 Wireless Headset (still the best)

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5 hours ago, Morata said:

I have backups with my Seagate external drive. I am using Seagate DiscWizard. I have not reset Windows in a while. This computer just randomly crashes, and usually, it might be doing something small, but it's never under full load.

 

All I need is clear instructions on what someone needs to help me determine if this needs physical repair or if the software is the issue.

Screenshot (4).png

I get those unexpected shutdown errors when I have a CPU overclock going that needs more voltage.

Are you overclocking?

If so, raise the CPU voltage by 0.01 if you have temperature headroom.

If you're already at 80 degrees under load in stress tests, reduce the CPU frequency by 100mhz.

 

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17 hours ago, stateofpsychosis said:

I get those unexpected shutdown errors when I have a CPU overclock going that needs more voltage.

Are you overclocking?

If so, raise the CPU voltage by 0.01 if you have temperature headroom.

If you're already at 80 degrees under load in stress tests, reduce the CPU frequency by 100mhz.

 

It’s a HQ processor. I’m undervolting it. It’s a 6700HQ.

Case: Dark Base Pro 900 (Black/Orange)
CPU: Ryzen 5900x
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 (LTT Special Edition)
Graphics Card: RTX 3090 Founders Edition
Motherboard: ASUS ROG Strix B550-F Gaming
RAM: Team T-Force Night Hawk RGB 32GB DDR4 3000 (2 x 16GB)
Storage (Boot): Samsung 990 PRO 2TB NVMe

Storage (Secondary): Samsung 980 PRO 2TB NVMe

Storage (Secondary): Samsung 850 EVO 1TB SATA III
Storage (Secondary): SanDisk Ultra II 960GB SATA III
Storage (Secondary): 2x Seagate 4TB SSHD (yes, really, solid-state hybrid drives in 2023)
PSU: Corsair RM1000x (80+ Gold)
OS: Windows 10 Home
Keyboard: Razer BlackWidow V3 Pro (with Razer Yellows)

Mouse: Razer Viper Ultimate Wireless
Mousemat: Razer Firefly Chroma Mousepad 2016
Headset: Logitech G533 Wireless Headset (still the best)

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9 hours ago, Morata said:

It’s a HQ processor. I’m undervolting it. It’s a 6700HQ.

That's your issue then.

That error specifically happens when your CPU doesn't have enough voltage.

I've seen this again and again on multiple computers.

This is actually one of my last tests I do on overclocks.

Monitor the reliability history and watch for this specific error.

Bump it back up to stock and see if it goes away.

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17 hours ago, stateofpsychosis said:

That's your issue then.

That error specifically happens when your CPU doesn't have enough voltage.

I've seen this again and again on multiple computers.

This is actually one of my last tests I do on overclocks.

Monitor the reliability history and watch for this specific error.

Bump it back up to stock and see if it goes away.

Where do you see the error? Stock voltages run too hot. It makes no sense that the computer ran fine before, but now it’s not. I’m trying to determine how to proceed?

Case: Dark Base Pro 900 (Black/Orange)
CPU: Ryzen 5900x
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 (LTT Special Edition)
Graphics Card: RTX 3090 Founders Edition
Motherboard: ASUS ROG Strix B550-F Gaming
RAM: Team T-Force Night Hawk RGB 32GB DDR4 3000 (2 x 16GB)
Storage (Boot): Samsung 990 PRO 2TB NVMe

Storage (Secondary): Samsung 980 PRO 2TB NVMe

Storage (Secondary): Samsung 850 EVO 1TB SATA III
Storage (Secondary): SanDisk Ultra II 960GB SATA III
Storage (Secondary): 2x Seagate 4TB SSHD (yes, really, solid-state hybrid drives in 2023)
PSU: Corsair RM1000x (80+ Gold)
OS: Windows 10 Home
Keyboard: Razer BlackWidow V3 Pro (with Razer Yellows)

Mouse: Razer Viper Ultimate Wireless
Mousemat: Razer Firefly Chroma Mousepad 2016
Headset: Logitech G533 Wireless Headset (still the best)

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1 hour ago, Morata said:

Where do you see the error? Stock voltages run too hot. It makes no sense that the computer ran fine before, but now it’s not. I’m trying to determine how to proceed?

It shows unexpected shutdown errors in the screenshot you shared of your reliability history above.

 

I'm absolutely sure that this is causing you issues and it's something you might not notice a problem with at first.

What are your temps with stock voltages? Anything under 80 degrees Celsius is fine.

If they're too hot, pick up a cheap air cooler like the evo 212 instead of choking your CPU from the voltage it needs. It's extremely easy to think you're stable and not be. Even 24 hour stress tests can not show these kinds of stability problems.

 

If you're not going to follow the most important troubleshooting step I give you to determine if this is the problem, I can't really help beyond this. 

I've seen these same errors come up too many times when CPU's don't have enough voltage to have even a shred of doubt in my mind about it, so try it. It's the only way to know ;)

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Assuming you haven’t made a desktop Frankenstein using an Alienware 17 R4 motherboard, you aren’t going to get an Evo 212 in there.

 

However, @stateofpsychosis is correct, your lack of stability is likely coming from the undervolt.

 

I did some research on the 1070 AWs and it seems they like to have cooling problems at stock settings. Most people seem to point at the CPU’s insane heat and Dell’s thermal paste. Thus, you’re pretty much left with these options:

 

1. Return it/sell it, get a laptop that can cool itself better.

2. Open it up and get better paste in there (voids warranty).

3. Try to undervolt less, possibly try external cooling solutions.

Resident smart (car) fanatic and lover of trijet airliners. One day you'll probably see me on one of those "Hoarders" shows, only I'm buried under a pile of 50 smart cars.

 

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31 minutes ago, Ms Mercedes - Trijet Girl said:

Assuming you haven’t made a desktop Frankenstein using an Alienware 17 R4 motherboard, you aren’t going to get an Evo 212 in there.

 

However, @stateofpsychosis is correct, your lack of stability is likely coming from the undervolt.

 

I did some research on the 1070 AWs and it seems they like to have cooling problems at stock settings. Most people seem to point at the CPU’s insane heat and Dell’s thermal paste. Thus, you’re pretty much left with these options:

 

1. Return it/sell it, get a laptop that can cool itself better.

2. Open it up and get better paste in there (voids warranty).

3. Try to undervolt less, possibly try external cooling solutions.

Maybe they could find a low profile cooler that'll do a little bit better of a job. 

One of the Noctua ones would be a good pick.

 

They should do up a pcpartpicker list and check :) 

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On 3/15/2018 at 7:58 AM, Ms Mercedes - Trijet Girl said:

Assuming you haven’t made a desktop Frankenstein using an Alienware 17 R4 motherboard, you aren’t going to get an Evo 212 in there.

 

However, @stateofpsychosis is correct, your lack of stability is likely coming from the undervolt.

 

I did some research on the 1070 AWs and it seems they like to have cooling problems at stock settings. Most people seem to point at the CPU’s insane heat and Dell’s thermal paste. Thus, you’re pretty much left with these options:

 

1. Return it/sell it, get a laptop that can cool itself better.

2. Open it up and get better paste in there (voids warranty).

3. Try to undervolt less, possibly try external cooling solutions.

Actually, my A17 is not affected by the cooking recall they did. That was a month before I purchased this, but they actually fixed the thermal pad issue instead. My warranty is through Best Buy at this point so it’s possible that I could remove the cooling solution, but I won’t. Currently, I’m changing my undervolt, but thanks to this 6700HQ, and 1070. I’m not aware of a different laptop that does it significantly better. Most laptops I see running through this channel have awful thermals because Linus refuses to talk about undevolting which is a negative for the consumer because great laptops would be running better otherwise.

Case: Dark Base Pro 900 (Black/Orange)
CPU: Ryzen 5900x
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 (LTT Special Edition)
Graphics Card: RTX 3090 Founders Edition
Motherboard: ASUS ROG Strix B550-F Gaming
RAM: Team T-Force Night Hawk RGB 32GB DDR4 3000 (2 x 16GB)
Storage (Boot): Samsung 990 PRO 2TB NVMe

Storage (Secondary): Samsung 980 PRO 2TB NVMe

Storage (Secondary): Samsung 850 EVO 1TB SATA III
Storage (Secondary): SanDisk Ultra II 960GB SATA III
Storage (Secondary): 2x Seagate 4TB SSHD (yes, really, solid-state hybrid drives in 2023)
PSU: Corsair RM1000x (80+ Gold)
OS: Windows 10 Home
Keyboard: Razer BlackWidow V3 Pro (with Razer Yellows)

Mouse: Razer Viper Ultimate Wireless
Mousemat: Razer Firefly Chroma Mousepad 2016
Headset: Logitech G533 Wireless Headset (still the best)

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I think everyone here missed a crucial step. Voltage is used to supply clock speed, so redice clock speed bit by bit until stable at your lower voltage

 

Also the new thermal paste is a good idea in most laptops.

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