Ek d5 pump res combo drain port location question.

[MoonFrost]

5 minutes ago, MoonFrost said:

So I hit a snag and I'm annoyed. My pump has a molex connection as well as a pwm. To my knowledge it needs both to control the speed. My problem is that the pwm pins will not go into the header. I don't know how these connectors attach to the cable, but I stuck a pin in 1, went in fine. But the other seems to be obstructed. 

 

Any ideas? I've been trying for the last hour to get this damn thing in

 

Out of frustration I stuck a single pin on my desk and put a lot of weight on the header and it finally shoved in the hole. Won't know until build is complete if I broke the header. What car scenario I'll have to cut it off and redo it myself

[For Science!]

It should just go in to any normal 4-pin fan header. If it doesn't contact EK. However the pump will still run (although at 100% speed) without the pwm signal.

[MoonFrost]

Just now, For Science! said:

It should just go in to any normal 4-pin fan header. If it doesn't contact EK. However the pump will still run (although at 100% speed) without the pwm signal.

I got it, unno why but just that 1 hole would not allow a pin to go through. Unno

[PrimeSonic]

I've got a pump that does that too.

It gets main power from the molex ( or SATA) connection and uses the 4-pin PWM connection for speed control and status reporting.

 

You'll want the pump's 4-pin PWM plug plugged into the CPU-fan header.

Some motherboard have two CPU-fan headers these days. Use the one labeled "CPU 1" if that's the case.

[MoonFrost]

10 hours ago, PrimeSonic said:

I've got a pump that does that too.

It gets main power from the molex ( or SATA) connection and uses the 4-pin PWM connection for speed control and status reporting.

 

You'll want the pump's 4-pin PWM plug plugged into the CPU-fan header.

Some motherboard have two CPU-fan headers these days. Use the one labeled "CPU 1" if that's the case.

My motherboard is the asus formula x. It has quite a few different pump and fan headers. I'll try the W_pump+ header first but I'll keep that in mind if I come across issues. 

 

I just want to thank everyone, countless people in this forum and others, for their help and advise. Took years to finally get this project going. Doing a 24 hour leak test before is finished. 

 

 

 

I messed up a few tubes, especially the small tight bend from motherboard block to Cpu, but I'm short on tubing. I just wanted to get it running so I don't have to be without a computer. I'll redo a few tubes whenever I do a flush. 

[MoonFrost]

Problem. 

 

I just hooked everything up. Computer doesn't power on. 

 

Clear cmos button is lit on the back, pci express leds on my 1080ti are lit, the rog animated display on motherboard works, and my USB microphone and keyboard light up. 

 

I tried both the power buttons on case and motherboard itself

[Mick Naughty]

Doesn’t sound like everyone is hooked up then. I’d just kill the power and wait a few minutes and try again. 

[MoonFrost]

Just now, Mick Naughty said:

Doesn’t sound like everyone is hooked up then. I’d just kill the power and wait a few minutes and try again. 

Going to sleep now. I checked all my connections, reseated everything I could access.  Unplugged power numerous times, cleared Cmos,  held down power button to clear anything when the system was unplugged.  I'll fiddle with it again in the morning. Unno what else to do. Right now I have a very expensive decoration on my desk ._. 

[Mick Naughty]

Had the same issue. Went to sleep, tried it when I woke up and booted just fine. 

[For Science!]

27 minutes ago, MoonFrost said:

-

Don't understand. If you have stand-by power you must be able to switch it on either by shorting motherboard pins or motherboard power buttons. There should be a Q-code readout if its a failed post. Don't forget to replug the 24-pin if you've been using it to fill the pump.

[MoonFrost]

17 minutes ago, For Science! said:

Don't understand. If you have stand-by power you must be able to switch it on either by shorting motherboard pins or motherboard power buttons. There should be a Q-code readout if its a failed post. Don't forget to replug the 24-pin if you've been using it to fill the pump.

I used a seperate power supply so I didn't have to unplug the 24 pin on my motherboard. 

The Q code doesn't light up, or if it did its too fast. 

 

When I flick on the switch on back of psu, the case led logo and power switch light up for like a millisecond, then the light goes away. But the things I stated above stay lit (usb, pcie led on the graphics card, and the asus rog display animation thing) 

 

When I try hitting power on the motherboard, or case. I do hear my pump turn on for like a fraction of a second, basically the same time ftame it takes to hit a button, then stops. I thought maybe it would work if I unplugged the pump then, nope. 

Edited January 31, 2018 by MoonFrost

[PrimeSonic]

Sounds like something isn't connected correctly and the motherboard is shutting down for safety.

[MoonFrost]

Unno what to try anymore...  I had this machine running on air, the only thing I removed during the process was the graphics card, and it looks fully seated to me. 

[For Science!]

5 minutes ago, MoonFrost said:

Unno what to try anymore...  I had this machine running on air, the only thing I removed during the process was the graphics card, and it looks fully seated to me. 

Time for normal diagnosis:

 

- Unplug all RAM, put one in try booting. Try one stick sequentially in all slots, if no different try again with the other stick

- Drain loop

- Unplug GPU

- Reseat CPU and mount cooler, try to boot (for just a boot test and getting into BIOS, just the block with a bit of water inside will be sufficient). Try to test if its iGPU can boot

- Replug GPU, try boot

- If all boots then fill loop again.

 

 

[MoonFrost]

4 hours ago, For Science! said:

Time for normal diagnosis:

 

- Unplug all RAM, put one in try booting. Try one stick sequentially in all slots, if no different try again with the other stick

- Drain loop

- Unplug GPU

- Reseat CPU and mount cooler, try to boot (for just a boot test and getting into BIOS, just the block with a bit of water inside will be sufficient). Try to test if its iGPU can boot

- Replug GPU, try boot

- If all boots then fill loop again.

 

 

So I started with ram. Didn't make a difference. 

 

I did skip the reseating of cpu, and took out the graphics card because that was the closest thing to take out. 

 

I started computer, lights and fans turned on so I killed the power before the cpu had a chance to warm up. 

 

I put graphics card back in, same problem as before. Did I really kill my 1080ti... 

[Mick Naughty]

Did you get the block on it?

[MoonFrost]

1 minute ago, Mick Naughty said:

Did you get the block on it?

Gpu and cpu block are still on. I haven't took the blocks off yet

[Mick Naughty]

Could be it, seen several have that issue with youtube builds. Id boot up with igpu then add the card and see how it goes.

 

[For Science!]

34 minutes ago, MoonFrost said:

Gpu and cpu block are still on. I haven't took the blocks off yet

There isn't really a reason for it to die unless you knocked a component off or something (I even knocked off an SMC once and the card was still alive). I would try a different PCIe slot as well.

[MoonFrost]

12 minutes ago, For Science! said:

There isn't really a reason for it to die unless you knocked a component off or something (I even knocked off an SMC once and the card was still alive). I would try a different PCIe slot as well.

Thanks for all your help. I think we are close to a solution.  I did try the bottom pci slot. Nothing. 

 

However. Out of curiosity I took the 1080ti waterblock and backplate off. I stuck in the bare 1080ti carefully in and turned on computer. Fans and lights came on. 

 

Will wait for your feedback regarding that.. I guess I'll reassemble the waterblock and try again.. 

[For Science!]

Just now, MoonFrost said:

Thanks for all your help. I think we are close to a solution.  I did try the bottom pci slot. Nothing. 

 

However. Out of curiosity I took the waterblock and backplate off. I stuck in the bare 1080ti carefully in and turned on computer. Fans and lights came on. 

 

Will wait for your feedback regarding that.. I guess I'll reassemble the waterblock and try again.. 

As many photos of your assembly. PCB alone, PCB + thermal pads, PCB + thermal pads + thermal paste. The waterblock pics etc etc etc.

 

Also can you find out what serial number your graphics card is? is a strix 1080Ti?

[MoonFrost]

20 minutes ago, For Science! said:

As many photos of your assembly. PCB alone, PCB + thermal pads, PCB + thermal pads + thermal paste. The waterblock pics etc etc etc.

 

Also can you find out what serial number your graphics card is? is a strix 1080Ti?

Just saw your post.. Blah. Well water block is installed and I put it in computer, fans and lights on. 

 

Putting on backplate now. 

 

Not sure where the serial number is located on the pcb but yea it's a 1080ti  O11G Strix

 

Serial number on box is HAYVCM073945

[For Science!]

2 minutes ago, MoonFrost said:

Just saw your post.. Blah. Well water block is installed and I put it in computer, fans and lights on. 

 

Putting on backplate now. 

 

Not sure where the serial number is located on the pcb but yea it's a 1080ti  O11G Strix

 

Serial number on box is HAYVCM073945

So... its all okay now? Serial number looked fine. Just was worried it was somehow related to the incompatible series with the EKWB block.

[MoonFrost]

Here's 4 pictures of the back of the pcb at any rate. 

[MoonFrost]

1 minute ago, For Science! said:

So... its all okay now? Serial number looked fine. Just was worried it was somehow related to the incompatible series with the EKWB block.

Yea I checked that already. I'm installing the backplate now and we will see, maybe I had the screws too tight?. _.