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My pc was running fine just a few hours ago. I opened it up to change my power supply and graphics card and when trying to boot back up my motherboard didnt post and had the 00 code. I decided to remove everything from my case and test the cpu and mo-bo individually. To my surprise i discovered that my cpu was burning hot even though i have a water cooler and the mobo was also burning hot around the cpu area. As you can see from the attached pic all the mobo leds light up.  I dont know if either of my parts are broken, can anyone help me out?

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Why would you boot it up with no cooler attached? 

 

Also, that CX psu is total crap, get rid of it. 

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There's no cooler on your cpu.

If you ever need help with a build, read the following before posting: http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/3061-build-plan-thread-recommendations-please-read-before-posting/
Also, make sure to quote a post or tag a member when replying or else they won't get a notification that you replied to them.

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Describing it as 'burning hot' could mean you've cooked the CPU and the power delivery on the board

Edited by LinusTechTipsFanFromDarlo

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The time Linus replied to me on one of my threads: 

 

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Of course it is going to get hot... Put the cooler back on, with new thermal compound if possible. Re-seat the CPU, check the motherboard for any bent/damaged pins. Be sure to tighten the cooler down properly, in an x pattern. Put the old gpu in the system since it is known good, and re-seat the RAM. Then try booting again.

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remove the mobo battery and the ram, replace thermal paste and put everything back inside the case, then try again

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Just now, Kered124 said:

Of course it is going to get hot... Put the cooler back on, with new thermal compound if possible. re-seat the CPU, check the motherboard for any bent/damaged pins. Be sure to tighten the cooler down properly, in an x pattern. Put the old gpu in the system since it is known good, and re-seat the RAM. Then try booting again.

I have done all of this. Please don't state the obvious. I just need help determining what broke and how it broke. I didn't fry the cpu, my system was fully built with my water cooler on and it still didn't boot, the keyboard and mouse didn't light up. The picture is me showing the mobo leds

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8 minutes ago, Tim666ish said:

I have tested my old mobo and cpu with no cooler and it boots just fine

Hahaha, old stuff was soldered, Intel nowadays uses toothpaste instead, you killed your CPU if you forced boot without a cooler

Personal Desktop":

CPU: Intel Core i7 10700K @5ghz |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock Pro 4 |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Z490UD ATX|~| RAM: 16gb DDR4 3333mhzCL16 G.Skill Trident Z |~| GPU: RX 6900XT Sapphire Nitro+ |~| PSU: Corsair TX650M 80Plus Gold |~| Boot:  SSD WD Green M.2 2280 240GB |~| Storage: 1x3TB HDD 7200rpm Seagate Barracuda + SanDisk Ultra 3D 1TB |~| Case: Fractal Design Meshify C Mini |~| Display: Toshiba UL7A 4K/60hz |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro.

Luna, the temporary Desktop:

CPU: AMD R9 7950XT  |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock 4 Pro |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Aorus Master |~| RAM: 32G Kingston HyperX |~| GPU: AMD Radeon RX 7900XTX (Reference) |~| PSU: Corsair HX1000 80+ Platinum |~| Windows Boot Drive: 2x 512GB (1TB total) Plextor SATA SSD (RAID0 volume) |~| Linux Boot Drive: 500GB Kingston A2000 |~| Storage: 4TB WD Black HDD |~| Case: Cooler Master Silencio S600 |~| Display 1 (leftmost): Eizo (unknown model) 1920x1080 IPS @ 60Hz|~| Display 2 (center): BenQ ZOWIE XL2540 1920x1080 TN @ 240Hz |~| Display 3 (rightmost): Wacom Cintiq Pro 24 3840x2160 IPS @ 60Hz 10-bit |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro (games / art) + Linux (distro: NixOS; programming and daily driver)
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1 minute ago, Tim666ish said:

I have done all of this. Please don't state the obvious. I just need help determining what broke and how it broke. I didn't fry the cpu, my system was fully built with my water cooler on and it still didn't boot, the keyboard and mouse didn't light up. The picture is me showing the mobo leds

What specific CPU is it? and what exact motherboard model?

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5 minutes ago, Kered124 said:

Is it just me, or in the picture does it look like the RAM isn't pressed all the way in at the top? The very first locking arm appears to be in more than the one on the RAM module...

Nah it was pressed in all the way, it just looks weird

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10 minutes ago, Princess Cadence said:

Hahaha, old stuff was soldered, Intel nowadays uses toothpaste instead, you killed your CPU if you forced boot without a cooler

Yes, but i actually tried booting with my watercooler inside the case before removing everything and testing like this

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2 minutes ago, Tim666ish said:

And so I shall

When you boot, LED's that are below the postcode turn on in sequence and then go out, if they stay on, it indicates a problem with that specific component. Page 29 of your manual: http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1151/MAXIMUS_IX_HERO/E12186_MAXIMUS_IX_HERO_UM_V2_WEB.pdf?_ga=2.236982080.1566293700.1515287374-1273242037.1514251472. Q-LED.

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34 minutes ago, Unimaginative Name said:

When you boot, LED's that are below the postcode turn on in sequence and then go out, if they stay on, it indicates a problem with that specific component. Page 29 of your manual: http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1151/MAXIMUS_IX_HERO/E12186_MAXIMUS_IX_HERO_UM_V2_WEB.pdf?_ga=2.236982080.1566293700.1515287374-1273242037.1514251472. Q-LED.

None of the lights turn on, the system appears to turn on but nothing happens, only the 00 code and all the fans start spinning but no keyboard or mouse lights and it certainly doesn't post

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