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How to fully transfer HDD

CHEESYnachoMAN4
By CHEESYnachoMAN4
in Storage Devices
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Go to solution Solved by pyrojoe34,
4 minutes ago, CHEESYnachoMAN4 said:

Thanks how do I change the drive letter?

(I’m on windows 10)

open Disk manager

right click on the drive partition

click "Change drive letter and paths"

Posted

I am buying a new HDD to replace my old one and I wanted to know how could I fully transfer all the data from my old hardrive to my new one. 

(My OS is on my SSD)

PC Specs:

CPU: i9 10850k

Motherboard: ASUS PRIME Z490-A

Ram: 32GB DDR4 4000MHz

GPU: GIGABYTE RTX 3080 GAMING OC 10G 

Case: Cooler Master: MasterCase H500P

Storage: 4TB NVME SSD, 8TB HDD, 500gb SSD

PSU: Corsair AX1600i

Monitor: ACER X34P 34" and LG 34" 34UC88-B Curved LED Monitor (stacked)

CPU Cooler: Cougar Helor 360

Peripherals:

Keyboard: CORSAIR K95 RGB PLATINUM

Mouse: Razer Basilisk Ultimate

Speakers: Sound BlasterX Katana V2

Operating System:

Windows 11 (64 Bit)

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You use cloning software, the best one is the paid Acronis True Image and it comes for free if you buy Seagate/Samsung drives however there are free ones, they do a full clone of the drive including system and boot partitions meaning you can just boot from the new one and resume as if the old drive.

Personal Desktop":

CPU: Intel Core i7 10700K @5ghz |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock Pro 4 |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Z490UD ATX|~| RAM: 16gb DDR4 3333mhzCL16 G.Skill Trident Z |~| GPU: RX 6900XT Sapphire Nitro+ |~| PSU: Corsair TX650M 80Plus Gold |~| Boot:  SSD WD Green M.2 2280 240GB |~| Storage: 1x3TB HDD 7200rpm Seagate Barracuda + SanDisk Ultra 3D 1TB |~| Case: Fractal Design Meshify C Mini |~| Display: Toshiba UL7A 4K/60hz |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro.

Luna, the temporary Desktop:

CPU: AMD R9 7950XT  |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock 4 Pro |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Aorus Master |~| RAM: 32G Kingston HyperX |~| GPU: AMD Radeon RX 7900XTX (Reference) |~| PSU: Corsair HX1000 80+ Platinum |~| Windows Boot Drive: 2x 512GB (1TB total) Plextor SATA SSD (RAID0 volume) |~| Linux Boot Drive: 500GB Kingston A2000 |~| Storage: 4TB WD Black HDD |~| Case: Cooler Master Silencio S600 |~| Display 1 (leftmost): Eizo (unknown model) 1920x1080 IPS @ 60Hz|~| Display 2 (center): BenQ ZOWIE XL2540 1920x1080 TN @ 240Hz |~| Display 3 (rightmost): Wacom Cintiq Pro 24 3840x2160 IPS @ 60Hz 10-bit |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro (games / art) + Linux (distro: NixOS; programming and daily driver)
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2 minutes ago, Princess Cadence said:

You use cloning software, the best one is the paid Acronis True Image and it comes for free if you buy Seagate/Samsung drives however there are free ones, they do a full clone of the drive including system and boot partitions meaning you can just boot from the new one and resume as if the old drive.

I bought a seagate drive but how do I acquire the software when I receive my HDD

PC Specs:

CPU: i9 10850k

Motherboard: ASUS PRIME Z490-A

Ram: 32GB DDR4 4000MHz

GPU: GIGABYTE RTX 3080 GAMING OC 10G 

Case: Cooler Master: MasterCase H500P

Storage: 4TB NVME SSD, 8TB HDD, 500gb SSD

PSU: Corsair AX1600i

Monitor: ACER X34P 34" and LG 34" 34UC88-B Curved LED Monitor (stacked)

CPU Cooler: Cougar Helor 360

Peripherals:

Keyboard: CORSAIR K95 RGB PLATINUM

Mouse: Razer Basilisk Ultimate

Speakers: Sound BlasterX Katana V2

Operating System:

Windows 11 (64 Bit)

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22 minutes ago, CHEESYnachoMAN4 said:

I bought a seagate drive but how do I acquire the software when I receive my HDD

I'd like to know too, since I bought two Samsung SSD's last year and didn't get this software.

"We're gunna blow this mother♥♥♥♥er up." - Barret FFVII Abridged, in regards to the Mako Factory.

 

"WHAT HAPPENED TO THE STAIRS?!" - Eddy (Ed, Edd 'n Eddy), while sneaking Ed out of his room.

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If it doesn't have OS files on it you should be able to just copy all the files from one to the other, then take out the old one and remap the new one to the same drive letter. I've done this before (just had game installs and media on it) without issue.

Primary PC-

CPU: Intel i7-6800k @ 4.2-4.4Ghz   CPU COOLER: Bequiet Dark Rock Pro 4   MOBO: MSI X99A SLI Plus   RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance LPX quad-channel DDR4-2800  GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 SC2 iCX   PSU: Corsair RM1000i   CASE: Corsair 750D Obsidian   SSDs: 500GB Samsung 960 Evo + 256GB Samsung 850 Pro   HDDs: Toshiba 3TB + Seagate 1TB   Monitors: Acer Predator XB271HUC 27" 2560x1440 (165Hz G-Sync)  +  LG 29UM57 29" 2560x1080   OS: Windows 10 Pro

Album

Other Systems:

Spoiler

Home HTPC/NAS-

CPU: AMD FX-8320 @ 4.4Ghz  MOBO: Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3   RAM: 16GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Gigabyte GTX 760 OC   PSU: Rosewill 750W   CASE: Antec Gaming One   SSD: 120GB PNY CS1311   HDDs: WD Red 3TB + WD 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200 -or- Steam Link to Vizio M43C1 43" 4K TV  OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Offsite NAS/VM Server-

CPU: 2x Xeon E5645 (12-core)  Model: Dell PowerEdge T610  RAM: 16GB DDR3-1333  PSUs: 2x 570W  SSDs: 8GB Kingston Boot FD + 32GB Sandisk Cache SSD   HDDs: WD Red 4TB + Seagate 2TB + Seagate 320GB   OS: FreeNAS 11+

 

Laptop-

CPU: Intel i7-3520M   Model: Dell Latitude E6530   RAM: 8GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Nvidia NVS 5200M   SSD: 240GB TeamGroup L5   HDD: WD Black 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200   OS: Windows 10 Pro

Having issues with a Corsair AIO? Possible fix here:

Spoiler

Are you getting weird fan behavior, speed fluctuations, and/or other issues with Link?

Are you running AIDA64, HWinfo, CAM, or HWmonitor? (ASUS suite & other monitoring software often have the same issue.)

Corsair Link has problems with some monitoring software so you may have to change some settings to get them to work smoothly.

-For AIDA64: First make sure you have the newest update installed, then, go to Preferences>Stability and make sure the "Corsair Link sensor support" box is checked and make sure the "Asetek LC sensor support" box is UNchecked.

-For HWinfo: manually disable all monitoring of the AIO sensors/components.

-For others: Disable any monitoring of Corsair AIO sensors.

That should fix the fan issue for some Corsair AIOs (H80i GT/v2, H110i GTX/H115i, H100i GTX and others made by Asetek). The problem is bad coding in Link that fights for AIO control with other programs. You can test if this worked by setting the fan speed in Link to 100%, if it doesn't fluctuate you are set and can change the curve to whatever. If that doesn't work or you're still having other issues then you probably still have a monitoring software interfering with the AIO/Link communications, find what it is and disable it.

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Just now, pyrojoe34 said:

If it doesn't have OS files on it you should be able to just copy all the files from one to the other, then take out the old one and remap the new one to the same drive letter. I've done this before (just had game installs and media on it) without issue.

Thanks how do I change the drive letter?

(I’m on windows 10)

PC Specs:

CPU: i9 10850k

Motherboard: ASUS PRIME Z490-A

Ram: 32GB DDR4 4000MHz

GPU: GIGABYTE RTX 3080 GAMING OC 10G 

Case: Cooler Master: MasterCase H500P

Storage: 4TB NVME SSD, 8TB HDD, 500gb SSD

PSU: Corsair AX1600i

Monitor: ACER X34P 34" and LG 34" 34UC88-B Curved LED Monitor (stacked)

CPU Cooler: Cougar Helor 360

Peripherals:

Keyboard: CORSAIR K95 RGB PLATINUM

Mouse: Razer Basilisk Ultimate

Speakers: Sound BlasterX Katana V2

Operating System:

Windows 11 (64 Bit)

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4 minutes ago, CHEESYnachoMAN4 said:

Thanks how do I change the drive letter?

(I’m on windows 10)

open Disk manager

right click on the drive partition

click "Change drive letter and paths"

Primary PC-

CPU: Intel i7-6800k @ 4.2-4.4Ghz   CPU COOLER: Bequiet Dark Rock Pro 4   MOBO: MSI X99A SLI Plus   RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance LPX quad-channel DDR4-2800  GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 SC2 iCX   PSU: Corsair RM1000i   CASE: Corsair 750D Obsidian   SSDs: 500GB Samsung 960 Evo + 256GB Samsung 850 Pro   HDDs: Toshiba 3TB + Seagate 1TB   Monitors: Acer Predator XB271HUC 27" 2560x1440 (165Hz G-Sync)  +  LG 29UM57 29" 2560x1080   OS: Windows 10 Pro

Album

Other Systems:

Spoiler

Home HTPC/NAS-

CPU: AMD FX-8320 @ 4.4Ghz  MOBO: Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3   RAM: 16GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Gigabyte GTX 760 OC   PSU: Rosewill 750W   CASE: Antec Gaming One   SSD: 120GB PNY CS1311   HDDs: WD Red 3TB + WD 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200 -or- Steam Link to Vizio M43C1 43" 4K TV  OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Offsite NAS/VM Server-

CPU: 2x Xeon E5645 (12-core)  Model: Dell PowerEdge T610  RAM: 16GB DDR3-1333  PSUs: 2x 570W  SSDs: 8GB Kingston Boot FD + 32GB Sandisk Cache SSD   HDDs: WD Red 4TB + Seagate 2TB + Seagate 320GB   OS: FreeNAS 11+

 

Laptop-

CPU: Intel i7-3520M   Model: Dell Latitude E6530   RAM: 8GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Nvidia NVS 5200M   SSD: 240GB TeamGroup L5   HDD: WD Black 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200   OS: Windows 10 Pro

Having issues with a Corsair AIO? Possible fix here:

Spoiler

Are you getting weird fan behavior, speed fluctuations, and/or other issues with Link?

Are you running AIDA64, HWinfo, CAM, or HWmonitor? (ASUS suite & other monitoring software often have the same issue.)

Corsair Link has problems with some monitoring software so you may have to change some settings to get them to work smoothly.

-For AIDA64: First make sure you have the newest update installed, then, go to Preferences>Stability and make sure the "Corsair Link sensor support" box is checked and make sure the "Asetek LC sensor support" box is UNchecked.

-For HWinfo: manually disable all monitoring of the AIO sensors/components.

-For others: Disable any monitoring of Corsair AIO sensors.

That should fix the fan issue for some Corsair AIOs (H80i GT/v2, H110i GTX/H115i, H100i GTX and others made by Asetek). The problem is bad coding in Link that fights for AIO control with other programs. You can test if this worked by setting the fan speed in Link to 100%, if it doesn't fluctuate you are set and can change the curve to whatever. If that doesn't work or you're still having other issues then you probably still have a monitoring software interfering with the AIO/Link communications, find what it is and disable it.

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15 minutes ago, pyrojoe34 said:

open Disk manager

right click on the drive partition

click "Change drive letter and paths"

Thanks so much for the help ??

PC Specs:

CPU: i9 10850k

Motherboard: ASUS PRIME Z490-A

Ram: 32GB DDR4 4000MHz

GPU: GIGABYTE RTX 3080 GAMING OC 10G 

Case: Cooler Master: MasterCase H500P

Storage: 4TB NVME SSD, 8TB HDD, 500gb SSD

PSU: Corsair AX1600i

Monitor: ACER X34P 34" and LG 34" 34UC88-B Curved LED Monitor (stacked)

CPU Cooler: Cougar Helor 360

Peripherals:

Keyboard: CORSAIR K95 RGB PLATINUM

Mouse: Razer Basilisk Ultimate

Speakers: Sound BlasterX Katana V2

Operating System:

Windows 11 (64 Bit)

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17 hours ago, CHEESYnachoMAN4 said:

I bought a seagate drive but how do I acquire the software when I receive my HDD

 

17 hours ago, Melano said:

I'd like to know too, since I bought two Samsung SSD's last year and didn't get this software.

Try giving our free tool DiscWizard a shot. Here is a User Guide if you'd like more info about it as well.

Seagate Technology | Official Forums Team

IronWolf Drives for NAS Applications - SkyHawk Drives for Surveillance Applications - BarraCuda Drives for PC & Gaming

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