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So, my Chromebook won't turn on, even with a full battery. I know it won't boot (and not just not activate screen) as the USB ports don't power devices. When it is plugged in, however, it boots fine with no hitches whatsoever.

 

My current theory is the battery is dislodged from the connector or has malfunctioned (Some of my previous Windows laptops would function fine with no battery, as long as it was plugged into the wall).

 

I don't know what model number this chromebook is (the bottom label has faded beyond reading). What I DO know is that it was manufactured by Toshiba and has Skullcandy audio. It has 2 USB ports, 1 SD, one HDMI and a headphone jack.

 

I would appreciate advice as to what to do and how to find out what model this is. I am fairly comfortable with opening it and doing some laptop surgery, but this will be my first time.

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Hmm, I have the same thing with a Samsung Windows 10 Ultrabook (2013) but it wasn't a connector problem. Still, it's worth a check, just use an ESD wristband or make sure you're grounded when you open it :)

HEADS UP, THIS ACCOUNT IS INACTIVE NOW

I'm keeping everything else the way it was for anyone who might check out my answers in future, but I won't be using LTT.

 

 

 

 

Don't forget to quote me when replying to me!

Please explain your question fully, so I can answer it fully.

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My PC:

CPU: Ryzen 5 1600 @ 3.2GHz

Cooler: Stock Wraith Spire

RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 3000mHz 16GB DDR4 (2x8GB) RGB

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CPU: Intel Ivy Bridge i5 3337U @ 1.8GHz

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1 minute ago, JaegerB said:

Hmm, I have the same thing with a Samsung Windows 10 Ultrabook (2013) but it wasn't a connector problem. Still, it's worth a check, just use an ESD wristband or make sure you're grounded when you open it :)

Thank you! What was your problem and solution? For those viewing, more help/advice is appreciated.

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Thank you! What was your problem and solution? For those viewing, more help/advice is appreciated.

Unfortunately I was unable to source a replacement battery, nor did I feel like forking out the cash for one even if there were. In your case, depending on how new the chromebook is I'd have a look around for a replacement battery, provided it definitely isn't any other issue.

HEADS UP, THIS ACCOUNT IS INACTIVE NOW

I'm keeping everything else the way it was for anyone who might check out my answers in future, but I won't be using LTT.

 

 

 

 

Don't forget to quote me when replying to me!

Please explain your question fully, so I can answer it fully.

PSU Tier List Cooler Tier List SSD Tier List  My Specs Below!

Spoiler

My PC:

CPU: Ryzen 5 1600 @ 3.2GHz

Cooler: Stock Wraith Spire

RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 3000mHz 16GB DDR4 (2x8GB) RGB

Motherboard: Asus ROG Strix X370-F Gaming ATX

SSD: Crucial MX500 500GB 2.5"

HDD: Western Digital Blue 1TB 7200rpm

GPU: Asus ROG Strix OC GTX 1060 6GB

Case: Cooler Master H500P

PSU: Corsair RM650i 650W 80+ Gold Fully Modular

OS: Windows 10 Home 64-bit

Fans: 4x Cooler Master Masterfan Pro 120 Air Balance

Spoiler

Potato Laptop (Samsung Series 5 Ultrabook, 2013):

CPU: Intel Ivy Bridge i5 3337U @ 1.8GHz

RAM: 8GB DDR3 2133mhz SODIMM (1x4GB Samsung, 1x4GB Kingston)

SSD: Kingston 24GB SSD (originally for caching)

HDD: HGST 500GB 5400rpm

GPU: Intel HD 4000 Graphics

OS: Windows 10 Home 64-bit

 

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Just now, JaegerB said:

Unfortunately I was unable to source a replacement battery, nor did I feel like forking out the cash for one even if there were. In your case, depending on how new the chromebook is I'd have a look around for a replacement battery, provided it definitely isn't any other issue.

Thanks for clarifying! Any other advice?

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Thanks for clarifying! Any other advice?

 

Not really, other than to make sure you have the right screwdrivers for opening the chromebook, as some of them use tricky types like torx :)

HEADS UP, THIS ACCOUNT IS INACTIVE NOW

I'm keeping everything else the way it was for anyone who might check out my answers in future, but I won't be using LTT.

 

 

 

 

Don't forget to quote me when replying to me!

Please explain your question fully, so I can answer it fully.

PSU Tier List Cooler Tier List SSD Tier List  My Specs Below!

Spoiler

My PC:

CPU: Ryzen 5 1600 @ 3.2GHz

Cooler: Stock Wraith Spire

RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 3000mHz 16GB DDR4 (2x8GB) RGB

Motherboard: Asus ROG Strix X370-F Gaming ATX

SSD: Crucial MX500 500GB 2.5"

HDD: Western Digital Blue 1TB 7200rpm

GPU: Asus ROG Strix OC GTX 1060 6GB

Case: Cooler Master H500P

PSU: Corsair RM650i 650W 80+ Gold Fully Modular

OS: Windows 10 Home 64-bit

Fans: 4x Cooler Master Masterfan Pro 120 Air Balance

Spoiler

Potato Laptop (Samsung Series 5 Ultrabook, 2013):

CPU: Intel Ivy Bridge i5 3337U @ 1.8GHz

RAM: 8GB DDR3 2133mhz SODIMM (1x4GB Samsung, 1x4GB Kingston)

SSD: Kingston 24GB SSD (originally for caching)

HDD: HGST 500GB 5400rpm

GPU: Intel HD 4000 Graphics

OS: Windows 10 Home 64-bit

 

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OK! The bottom panel has phillips.

 

Lucky, that'll make your job a whole lot easier. Just be careful of ESD.

HEADS UP, THIS ACCOUNT IS INACTIVE NOW

I'm keeping everything else the way it was for anyone who might check out my answers in future, but I won't be using LTT.

 

 

 

 

Don't forget to quote me when replying to me!

Please explain your question fully, so I can answer it fully.

PSU Tier List Cooler Tier List SSD Tier List  My Specs Below!

Spoiler

My PC:

CPU: Ryzen 5 1600 @ 3.2GHz

Cooler: Stock Wraith Spire

RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 3000mHz 16GB DDR4 (2x8GB) RGB

Motherboard: Asus ROG Strix X370-F Gaming ATX

SSD: Crucial MX500 500GB 2.5"

HDD: Western Digital Blue 1TB 7200rpm

GPU: Asus ROG Strix OC GTX 1060 6GB

Case: Cooler Master H500P

PSU: Corsair RM650i 650W 80+ Gold Fully Modular

OS: Windows 10 Home 64-bit

Fans: 4x Cooler Master Masterfan Pro 120 Air Balance

Spoiler

Potato Laptop (Samsung Series 5 Ultrabook, 2013):

CPU: Intel Ivy Bridge i5 3337U @ 1.8GHz

RAM: 8GB DDR3 2133mhz SODIMM (1x4GB Samsung, 1x4GB Kingston)

SSD: Kingston 24GB SSD (originally for caching)

HDD: HGST 500GB 5400rpm

GPU: Intel HD 4000 Graphics

OS: Windows 10 Home 64-bit

 

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