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Hi,
I just want to kick-off a modding/build project worklog here, which will kind of be more than just a worklog.
My colleague is a 3D artist, he spends a lot of time working with Blender. The time came when he could invest money in a serious work station with 3x 1080 Ti`s and I will be the person helping him carry out this project.
The main point of the project is to compare performance results of 3x 1080 Ti Founders Edition cards sandwiched to each other in a hot summer day, versus a fully liquid cooled solution.
It's no secret that he boost frequency of the 1080 depends on the effectiveness of the stock blower, and liquid cooling them would even grant some overclocking headroom.
Besides having some fun and building a liquid cooled PC, I hope that this thread will reach people who are new to building render stations, among which I belong as well.
 
This project is supported by:
and the owner's personal wallet ofc.
 
List of parts that are being used is:
Processor: Intel® Core™ i7-6850K
Motherboard: SUPERMICRO C7X99-OCE
Graphics Card: 3x Gainward GTX 1080 Ti FE
RAM: G.SKILL® TridentZ F4-3200C16Q-32GTZSW
PC Case: Hex Gear R80
Power Supply: Silverstone® ST1500-GS
 
giphy.gif
 
I personally feel like the choice of hardware was not the best, referring mostly
to the motherboard choice and the PSU as well... but guess that's how it goes
when you are doing something new, mistakes occur.
 
I would like if we could debate on the subject of motherboard and CPU choice before i start posting some actual modding work being done.
 
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Only 6 cores for rendering?

Even if blender wasn't CPU intensive I'd consider that a bottleneck.

But what do I know; the heaviest thing my 12 threads work on is f@h.

3600X @ stocke | 5600XT TUF OC @ 1850 | 2x16 + 2x8 RAM 3200 HD | 1tb Samsung 970 EVO Plus | Lian Li 205M | TT Toughpower Grand RGB 850 | throwaway b450 asus mobo | BQ cooler

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Well the rendering is actually done by the three 1080 Tis. A Titan X or Xp would be a better go for this kind of workload.... but that cost a bit more. :D
Maybe a Ryzen would be a better CPU, but the CPU lanes for multi GPU setups are still confusing for me.

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1 hour ago, AtilaEKWB said:

Well the rendering is actually done by the three 1080 Tis. A Titan X or Xp would be a better go for this kind of workload.... but that cost a bit more. :D
Maybe a Ryzen would be a better CPU, but the CPU lanes for multi GPU setups are still confusing for me.

Is he only doing rendering in blender? Or will he be doing modeling/sculpting/ other blender tasks that arent CUDA accelerated?  I use Blender at work for modeling, and on a workstation with a 6850k with quad Titan Xp's, I find that the GPU power only helps with rendering and nothing else. Modeling at high resolutions and working with textures is still quite slow. The entire viewport experience seems to be CPU bottlenecked. (This is based on my experience, not empirical evidence)

CPU - 1700X 3.7gHz | CPU Cooler - EK and Singularity Custom Loop | Motherboard -  Asus X370 Crosshair VI w/ EK Monoblock | RAM - Corsair Vengeance RGB (4x8GB) 3000Mhz w/ Silver Paint| Graphics Card - Asus GTX 1080ti Strix OC w/ EK Fullcover block with custom vertical mount | Power Supply - Corsair HX750i w/ self made Custom Cables and 3D printed Combs | Storage - 3x 3TB, 2TB HDD | Samsung 960 EVO 500GB NVME SSD, 500GB OCZ SSD | Case - Lian Li PC-09 Custom paint | Colour Theme - Silver & Black & RGB lights

Operating System - Windows 10 Pro | Peripherals - Corsair RGB Mechanical K70 Keyboard/Logitech MX Master 2S Mouse/Wacom Intuos Pro5 Med

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On 7/31/2017 at 10:43 PM, Voxels-Box said:

Is he only doing rendering in blender? Or will he be doing modeling/sculpting/ other blender tasks that arent CUDA accelerated?  I use Blender at work for modeling, and on a workstation with a 6850k with quad Titan Xp's, I find that the GPU power only helps with rendering and nothing else. Modeling at high resolutions and working with textures is still quite slow. The entire viewport experience seems to be CPU bottlenecked. (This is based on my experience, not empirical evidence)

I think he is doing a lot of that. I just invited him to join the forum so we can expand the subject. Are your Titans liquid cooled?

While we wait for the Blender artist to join in, I will post some photos of the case assembly. As I wrote already we are using the Hex Gear R80.

So, the package arrived from Hex Gear directly. I initially wanted to build the system in an In Win 303... and mod it... a bit. But then someone came along and said
"Baaaaaaaaah! That case is too small!!!!11". So we got a Hex Gear R80.

And we have unboxed it.
n0RSMcb.jpg

 

So, you have to assemble the whole case.
The installation manual is a bit vague for the case, but anyone with brains can figure it out. Once you start building the case you actually really
how brilliant and simple the case is. The, I guess true, modular form of the case makes it very handy for modifications and paint jobs, so the
whole Hex Gear case lineup is something that more advanced users would prefer over the boring stuff.

Dj9gtUX.jpg

 

My supervisor was satisfied with the work I have done.
WY1VF7v.jpg

And now I have the problem of "how to fill up the case". :D
O7v6Iwu.jpg

But I guess that will be easy with some water cooling stuff. :)

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2 hours ago, AtilaEKWB said:

Are your Titans liquid cooled?

Alas, they are stock aircooled. It's a company workstation, so they didnt want to go that route.

 

That's a gorgeous cat btw!

CPU - 1700X 3.7gHz | CPU Cooler - EK and Singularity Custom Loop | Motherboard -  Asus X370 Crosshair VI w/ EK Monoblock | RAM - Corsair Vengeance RGB (4x8GB) 3000Mhz w/ Silver Paint| Graphics Card - Asus GTX 1080ti Strix OC w/ EK Fullcover block with custom vertical mount | Power Supply - Corsair HX750i w/ self made Custom Cables and 3D printed Combs | Storage - 3x 3TB, 2TB HDD | Samsung 960 EVO 500GB NVME SSD, 500GB OCZ SSD | Case - Lian Li PC-09 Custom paint | Colour Theme - Silver & Black & RGB lights

Operating System - Windows 10 Pro | Peripherals - Corsair RGB Mechanical K70 Keyboard/Logitech MX Master 2S Mouse/Wacom Intuos Pro5 Med

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Maybe you can convince them to do so after this build is finished. :D

About the cat... Thanks, I know... wait until you see the dog as well. :D

The case comes with a really nice power switch, but a bit poorly sleeved, but that's is not an issue. Just a
reason to use the sleeving kit! :D

While i was waiting for the cables from Cablemod to arrive, this was the best i could do with the stock PSU cables.

s454YSB.jpg

20170702_121315.jpg

20170702_121318.jpg

20170702_121228.jpg

20170702_124050.jpg

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Since data security on a render station is very important and sometimes large files are handled, I wanted to use an HDD cooler enclosure right from the start.
The HDD enclosure was a bit dusty, so I wanted to play smart and to wash the heatsink in the dishwasher.
Sadly, I discovered that anodization does not like the salts and other chemicals that are going on inside the dishwasher. :D
 
0cNGsdo.jpg
 
So there was only one thing to do. Strip the entire anodization to make it look nice again!
The cure is dipping the heatsink in potassium hydroxide.... and I do suggest you do this
in a well-ventilated room, or outdoors... not like I did! :D
 
 
Depending on the aluminum, you are sometimes left with some stains. The chemical
the process of anodization remove might have to be perfected with some hand scrubbing.

[IMG]

I will post some photos of the finished product in my next post!

 
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After literally two days of scrubbing and brushing the aluminum, here is the result.

 

Day 1
873J7g0.jpg

 

Day 2
EK2bTI9.jpg

 

vm2D8jI.jpg

 

The question now is... should I do a clear coat or not... it looks shinier 
when its bare aluminum.... but with every touch, I am risking to have oxidized
fingerprints appearing after a while.

 

My friend who owns the renders station actually hangs out in their own studio Primate
where they do audio and video production as well. I have seen two dead hard drives
there hanged on the wall saying "Died in the service of Primate". 
Since I was always overdoing cooling, and I have always actively or passively cooled
my own hard drives ... this came to my mind.

 

3cllkJX.jpg

 

So why not? :D
 

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Looks really cool.  I don't have much experience with loops, but would connecting the hdd enclosure to the loop not raise the temp of the drive to the water temp?  Seems like the enclosure is designed to dissipate heat on it's own.  Or would this be on a separate loop?  I guess I don't know what temps the hdd would get to anyway, just seems like it could be counter productive if it's on the loop with the cpu(s) and/or gpu(s).

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  • 1 month later...
After one week of vacation, two weeks of honeymoon, one week of a business trip... 
Time to get cracking again.

@haft2doit, the plan is for the CPU and HDD run on an EK-CoolStream PE 240 radiator. Since the mobo is not the champion
of overclocking, there will not be much stress on the radiator so, one 240 with push/pull will be plenty. 
The goal is to keep the HDD tempera stable, not to rise too high, or no to go too cold when it idles. 
As far as I am informed, HDD-s have a preferred operating temperature which can actually prolong their lifespan.

I have managed to do some work on the case, but haven't got the time to post the stuff.
I will continue where I left off, and that is the liquid cooled HDD enclosure. 

0amo3zo.jpg

I have used the stock EK-Thermosphere mounting to draw the pattern of the screws.

heuL6H8.jpg
 
The rest was really easy with the use of a caliper.

vj6YqAS.jpg
 
PvnzwCr.jpg
 
Then came the drill! (Courtesy of B-Negative)

2G2qs9P.jpg
 
I had to do countersunk holes so that the HDD inside the enclosure
could fit with no issues. 

PHZmX2R.jpg

I had limited amount of tools at the moment, so the countersunk holes
and the way I would have liked them.
 
rxgQI8m.jpg

But it worked, so I am satisfied. The end result looks like this:

JU5pL2S.jpg

I am still in a jam whether I should apply a clear coat to the brushed aluminum 
part or I should leave it naked.
The naked brushed aluminum looks better, but if I touch it once, it will develop
corrosion stains after a while.









 
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:o Wowsers. Dope work as usual! I'd clear coat it, since like you said it'll get corrosion and that will ruin the look, and also bar really had to fix once it's all put together. 

Gaming PC NAS Laptop Workstation

CPU: i5 12600KF 6P+4E Ryzen 7 3700X M4 SoC 4P+6E Xeon X5690 6c12t

Cooler: Noctua NH-D15S Wraith Stealth w/NF-A9 Passive Apple CPU Cooler

Motherboard: ASRock Z690 ITX/ax ASUS Pro B550M-C/CSM Apple J713AP Mac-F221BEC8 (Mac Pro 5,1)

RAM: 2x16GB 3600Mhz DDR4 2x16GB 2400MHz DDR4 24GB Micron LPDDR5 4x8GB 1333MHz ECC DDR3

GPU: Sapphire Pulse Radeon 9060 XT 16GB Radeon WX2100 M4 SoC 10C Radeon RX 5700

Storage: 1TB MP34 + 2TB P41 500GB SSD + 2x4TB IronWolf Pro in ZFS Mirror Apple AP0512Z 1TB Crucial MX500

ODD: LG WH14NS40 None LG GP65NB60 USB DVD Writer Don't know

PSU: EVGA 850W GM Silverstone SST-TX300 53.8Wh LiPo Battery Delta DPS-980BB

Case: Silverstone Sugo 14 Dell Inspiron 530S Mac16,12 chassis (13" MBA) 2009-2012 Mac Pro "Cheese Grater"

OS: Gentoo Linux TrueNAS Scale macOS 26 Tahoe Fedora Linux

 

Display: LG 27UK650-W (4K 60Hz IPS panel)

Mouse: EVGA X17

Keyboard: Corsair K55 RGB

 

Mobile/Work Devices: 14" M5P MacBook Pro (work) - iPhone 17 Pro - Apple Watch S11

 

Other Misc Devices: iPod Video (Gen 5.5E, iFlash Solo w/128GB SD Card, Rockbox), Nintendo Switch

 

Vehicles: 2002 Ford F150, 2003 Harley-Davidson Sportster 1200, 2022 Kawasaki KLR650, 1994 DR350SE

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I got a recommendation to try satin clear coat instead of the glossy one. I will get some and test spray some parts.


As for the rest... it is always nice if you have access to some goodies to play around with.

 

daoGPOm.jpg

 

The EK terminal covers will get some nice illumination, but I cannot wait for that so I whooped out my little rotary tool.

 

ahYwRBr.jpg

 

After "running" some of the terminal covers.....

 

Y4jRHo0.jpg

 

wzcfqeM.jpg

 

...it was time to ruin some of my wife's stuff as well...

 

xGxsqxy.jpg

 

After making a nice even opening that can still hold the original cover, it was time to test my theory.

 

o34S2a9.jpg

 

The glow came out pretty even. Of course, the camera is struggling a bit with the bright blue light.

 

pjUJ34B.jpg

 

For now, this is a general idea. To have three illuminated terminals form the side by two 3mm LEDs.

 

3hgIFHK.jpg

 

I will still try to make the glow a bit more even across the whole cover and see what will I come up with.

 

QuA2kvG.jpg

 

Of course, nothing would have been done without my supervisor being present during my work.

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This isn't about the project itself, but some might find this useful...
Moving to another country recently means not many tools could come along... but one of 
the main issues for me was painting. 

Indoors painting is an issue, especially for your wife. :D You also don't want to kill your pets...
So... here is what I came up with.

SRs9Qqn.jpg
 
Figured I make my own DIY paint chamber with an exhaust.

lQ2nNKK.jpg
 
sXcwIh0.jpg
 
All it took was a 140mm fan, cardboard box and a piece of plastic to strap the fan on to.

LJewOvv.jpg

Ready for painting!

G13elJh.jpg

And I must admit it works very well!
 


Sorry for the vertical video! :D
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  • 2 weeks later...
So. Time for some real modding.
Since I am allergic to Plexiglas, I mean really, it scratches when you look at it...
one of the first a major modifications on the case will be the glass side panel. 

I have gotten some 20x20 aluminium L profile and chopped it to size.

b1BKiNe.jpg
 
Seems like a nice fit!

tSpng3i.jpg
 
Before I could do some more work, I had to empty the case and return all
the hardware to the owner so he has a functioning render station while I am
working on the case.

EdfB6pF.jpg
 
The function for the L profile is to act as a stopper for the glass, and at the same
time, to hide the LED strip I am planning to use. The L profile will block the
direct view of the LED strip, but I can still lite up the entire case.
 
vFvxWqY.jpg
 
I saw these pre-made hinge-like thingies at a local hardware store so I figured
they will be perfect for the glass holder itself.

FpbVxJt.jpg

It should look something like this.

pViPlAZ.jpg

So far so good!

0upnlWL.jpg

The next step was to do the same on the upper part of the case as well because I 
want to plant LEDs on top and bottom of the case as well!

HII3btC.jpg

This is it for now. The next step will be figuring out the mounting of the L profile and the 
glass holder hinges themselves.
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