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Thoughts on Thermaltake C1000

Hey guys so im making the loop for my watercooled lan party pc at the moment with a 120mm rad a 240mm rad, 2 gtx 480's and an x5460, im not  massive fan of the green fluid i was running on the cards a while back which was just automotive anticorrosive coolant (no glycol) whichi used becauae my 120mm rad is aluminium and my blocks are copper which worked great minus the colour. So what i was wondering was what are peoples views om thermaltakes C1000 fluid and its anti corrosive capabilities since thermaltake still make alot of aluminium rads i would assume its good for preventing galvanic corrosion (im well aware mixing metals isnt good but i dont really want to buy new rads if i dony have to). Cheers guys

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5 minutes ago, nootnoot1277 said:

Hey guys so im making the loop for my watercooled lan party pc at the moment with a 120mm rad a 240mm rad, 2 gtx 480's and an x5460, im not  massive fan of the green fluid i was running on the cards a while back which was just automotive anticorrosive coolant (no glycol) whichi used becauae my 120mm rad is aluminium and my blocks are copper which worked great minus the colour. So what i was wondering was what are peoples views om thermaltakes C1000 fluid and its anti corrosive capabilities since thermaltake still make alot of aluminium rads i would assume its good for preventing galvanic corrosion (im well aware mixing metals isnt good but i dont really want to buy new rads if i dony have to). Cheers guys

While it shouldn't have a problem if the correct fluid is used in a mixed metal loop, I do not know about their fluid's reliability long term. They've gotten a bit of a bad rep in terms of watercooling with the mixed metal. 

 

I would recommend to look into something like mayhem xt-1 that is good for mixed metal loops. https://mayhems.co.uk/coolants/xt-1-coolant/xt-1-nuke/xt-1-nuke-clear-concentrate-coolant/

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9 hours ago, W-L said:

While it shouldn't have a problem if the correct fluid is used in a mixed metal loop, I do not know about their fluid's reliability long term. They've gotten a bit of a bad rep in terms of watercooling with the mixed metal. 

 

I would recommend to look into something like mayhem xt-1 that is good for mixed metal loops. https://mayhems.co.uk/coolants/xt-1-coolant/xt-1-nuke/xt-1-nuke-clear-concentrate-coolant/

alright thanks ill look into it.
also when you say they have a bit of a bad rep for water cooling do you mean their fluid or their rads?

Edited by nootnoot1277
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20 minutes ago, nootnoot1277 said:

alright thanks ill look into it.
also when you say they have a bit of a bad rep for water cooling do you mean their fluid or their rads?

Mainly their choice of a mixed metal option and component quality not being the highest of quality, I'm not sure if the fluid is made by them or from a partnership with another company however. 

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Just now, W-L said:

Mainly their choice of a mixed metal option and component quality not being the highest of quality, I'm not sure if the fluid is made by them or from a partnership with another company however. 

ah ok i see thanks.

Do you have any thoughts on Primochill's premix: https://www.ple.com.au/Products/625604/PrimoChill-True-Infused--Insanely-Concentrated-Liquid-Pre-Mix-UV-Pink
reason i ask is because it specially says its additives prevent galvanic corrosion.

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4 minutes ago, nootnoot1277 said:

ah ok i see thanks.
Do you have any thoughts on Primochill's premix: https://www.ple.com.au/Products/625604/PrimoChill-True-Infused--Insanely-Concentrated-Liquid-Pre-Mix-UV-Pink
reason i ask is because it specially says its additives prevent galvanic corrosion.

It looks like it's more as a preventative measure and not truly recommended for mixed metal loops as they do say on their page.

https://www.primochill.com/collections/true-transparent/products/primochill-true-infused-insanely-concentrated-liquid-pre-mix-8oz-clear

 

Quote
  • Use of this product with aluminum components (such as aluminum constructed radiators) is STRONGLY DISCOURAGED and will void the fluid warranty. PrimoChill will not support or replace fluids used with an aluminum radiator.

 

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Just now, W-L said:

It looks like it's more as a preventative measure and not truly recommended for mixed metal loops as they do say on their page.

https://www.primochill.com/collections/true-transparent/products/primochill-true-infused-insanely-concentrated-liquid-pre-mix-8oz-clear

 

 

Damn. i really need a coloured coolant or additive that stops galvanic corrosion, either that or i spend another $50 replacing my 120mm rad

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3 minutes ago, nootnoot1277 said:

Damn. i really need a coloured coolant or additive that stops galvanic corrosion, either that or i spend another $50 replacing my 120mm rad

If it's only a single 120mm rad I would say it's worth the investment for changing it to a copper rad to ensure no galvanic corrosion occurs. In any case if you have the room you can go with a single 360mm or another 240mm to provide even more cooling potential. 

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2 minutes ago, W-L said:

If it's only a single 120mm rad I would say it's worth the investment for changing it to a copper rad to ensure no galvanic corrosion occurs. In any case if you have the room you can go with a single 360mm or another 240mm to provide even more cooling potential. 

im putting a new 240mm copper rad in but the problem is for the price of a 120mm copper rad i could buy another 240mm copper the price is ridiculous for them but my case can only fit a 240mm if i squeeze it in and a 120mm in the bottom unless i removed the psu or mounted the 2nd rad outside of the case. (its a thermaltake commander GS2) i will likely just buy a copper 120mm but ergh more money to spend.

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12 minutes ago, nootnoot1277 said:

im putting a new 240mm copper rad in but the problem is for the price of a 120mm copper rad i could buy another 240mm copper the price is ridiculous for them but my case can only fit a 240mm if i squeeze it in and a 120mm in the bottom unless i removed the psu or mounted the 2nd rad outside of the case. (its a thermaltake commander GS2) i will likely just buy a copper 120mm but ergh more money to spend.

Yes the cost factor is a lot better with the larger rads as the initial cost of production for the smaller 120mm rad needs to be higher than just the little bit of extra material for say a 240mm ro 360mm rad which I find tend to be the best value in terms of rads. If you don't mind doing some cleaning and work to the rad a used rad can work just fine,  be sure it is a copper based unit with G1/4" threads. 

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Just now, W-L said:

Yes the cost factor is a lot better with the larger rads as the initial cost of production for the smaller 120mm rad needs to be higher than just the little bit of extra material for say a 240mm ro 360mm rad which I find tend to be the best value in terms of rads. If you don't mind doing some cleaning and work to the rad a used rad can work just fine,  be sure it is a copper based unit with G1/4" threads. 

yeah that makes sense, i haven't tried ebay yet but there really isn't that many used rads in Australia. the one i did find was a 360mm rad for $19... its just teasing me at this point

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1 minute ago, nootnoot1277 said:

yeah that makes sense, i haven't tried ebay yet but there really isn't that many used rads in Australia. the one i did find was a 360mm rad for $19... its just teasing me at this point

Maybe time for a case upgrade, must satisfy the watercooling addiction!!! xD 

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Just now, W-L said:

Maybe time for a case upgrade, must satisfy the watercooling addiction!!! xD 

haha i was just thinking that xD

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3 hours ago, W-L said:

Maybe time for a case upgrade, must satisfy the watercooling addiction!!! xD 

ive had an idea.
what i might do is drill the rivets holding the HDD bay in and remove that and the bottom of the 5.25 bay then drill holes in the front of the case (not the bezel the actual case) and make the case take 2 120mm fans in the front and thus allowing me to jam a second 240mm radiator in. A pretty major bodge but it should work i think and its worth it for a case i payed $5 for xD

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7 minutes ago, nootnoot1277 said:

ive had an idea.
what i might do is drill the rivets holding the HDD bay in and remove that and the bottom of the 5.25 bay then drill holes in the front of the case (not the bezel the actual case) and make the case take 2 120mm fans in the front and thus allowing me to jam a second 240mm radiator in. A pretty major bodge but it should work i think and its worth it for a case i payed $5 for xD

It's definitely doable if your up to the task of modding your case to hold more watercooling space. 

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1 minute ago, W-L said:

It's definitely doable if your up to the task of modding your case to hold more watercooling space. 

yeah i think i can manage it, just finished my custom Testbench so a little hackery isn't something new to me X3. definitely gonna be better funds wise because now i dont have to buy an overpriced 120mm or a new case and cooling because 2 240m are surely gonna be better than 1 240mm and 1 120mm,

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  • 3 weeks later...

Dunno if you've finished your watercooling setup yet or not. But i highly advise that you DO NOT use the themaltake c1000 coolant.

 

Learn from my mistakes and others, I recently setup my whole custom watercooling loop with the EK Fluid Gaming A240G kit (its a whole aluminium kit with a GPU block) and initially used the thermaltake c1000 coolant in yellow. Upon researching online it seems that this fluid settles and ends up staining your tubing and blocks with white gunk in a matter of days. So i decided to test this settling by putting some of the coolant in a container, within 12h there is white settlement at the bottom, this is also evident in the bottom of the bottle (didnt notice this at first because yellow is such a bright colour) 

 

So after 2 days i ended up flushing the loop and using the EK Cryofuel which came with the kit, just incase...

 

BUT it gets worse for me as i bought the primochill true infused from PLE (noticed that you linked PLE, a fellow Aussie?) just to read later that they dont recommend using it with aluminium products.... 

 

So now im stuck, trying to find a yellow fluid (transparent or opaque) that doesnt clog my stuff up or discolour (turned off by mayhems pastel after the jayztwocents thing... and mayhems is hard to find in Australia). 

 

 

 

SPECS! | CPU: Intel i7 7700k @ 5.2GHz | Cooling: EK Fluid Gaming A240G| GPU: Nvidia GTX 1080 Founders Edition | RAM: GSKILL Trident Z RGB 16GB 3200MHz | MOBO: ASUS Z270G ROG Strix | CASE: Corsair Obsidian 350D  | PSU: Corsair RM650 | Storage: Samsung 960 EVO 1TB NVMe, Samsung 850 EVO 1TB mSATA, Seagate Barracuda 2TB  | OS: Windows 10 Pro | Primary Monitor: ASUS ROG Swift PG278Q | Keyboard: Logitech G810 | Mouse: Logitech G900 |
- - - - > FIRST BUILD LOG < 
- - - -

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34 minutes ago, DivineEquinox said:

Dunno if you've finished your watercooling setup yet or not. But i highly advise that you DO NOT use the themaltake c1000 coolant.

 

Learn from my mistakes and others, I recently setup my whole custom watercooling loop with the EK Fluid Gaming A240G kit (its a whole aluminium kit with a GPU block) and initially used the thermaltake c1000 coolant in yellow. Upon researching online it seems that this fluid settles and ends up staining your tubing and blocks with white gunk in a matter of days. So i decided to test this settling by putting some of the coolant in a container, within 12h there is white settlement at the bottom, this is also evident in the bottom of the bottle (didnt notice this at first because yellow is such a bright colour) 

 

So after 2 days i ended up flushing the loop and using the EK Cryofuel which came with the kit, just incase...

 

BUT it gets worse for me as i bought the primochill true infused from PLE (noticed that you linked PLE, a fellow Aussie?) just to read later that they dont recommend using it with aluminium products.... 

 

So now im stuck, trying to find a yellow fluid (transparent or opaque) that doesnt clog my stuff up or discolour (turned off by mayhems pastel after the jayztwocents thing... and mayhems is hard to find in Australia). 

 

 

 

oh ok wow thats pretty bad. i got my new copper rads the other day but im waiting on a motherboard right now so no i didnt finish my board but thanks for telling me that ill keep clear of them.
yeah im in Australia and your right about mayhems fluid im not buying that after what happened to jay.

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26 minutes ago, nootnoot1277 said:

oh ok wow thats pretty bad. i got my new copper rads the other day but im waiting on a motherboard right now so no i didnt finish my board but thanks for telling me that ill keep clear of them.
yeah im in Australia and your right about mayhems fluid im not buying that after what happened to jay.

 

Just some more info. Here's a picture of the bottle of the yellow c1000 that i just took out right now, this was used about 3 days ago when i filled my loop and i did shake the bottle before using the coolant. As you can see there is thick white settlement stuck at the bottom (could be from it being on the shelf for a long time) of the bottle as well it dripping down the bottle when i turned it over. 

20170710_214915.thumb.jpg.692ae94d498c92e6890f24c8e4952544.jpg

SPECS! | CPU: Intel i7 7700k @ 5.2GHz | Cooling: EK Fluid Gaming A240G| GPU: Nvidia GTX 1080 Founders Edition | RAM: GSKILL Trident Z RGB 16GB 3200MHz | MOBO: ASUS Z270G ROG Strix | CASE: Corsair Obsidian 350D  | PSU: Corsair RM650 | Storage: Samsung 960 EVO 1TB NVMe, Samsung 850 EVO 1TB mSATA, Seagate Barracuda 2TB  | OS: Windows 10 Pro | Primary Monitor: ASUS ROG Swift PG278Q | Keyboard: Logitech G810 | Mouse: Logitech G900 |
- - - - > FIRST BUILD LOG < 
- - - -

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On 10/07/2017 at 9:58 PM, DivineEquinox said:

 

Just some more info. Here's a picture of the bottle of the yellow c1000 that i just took out right now, this was used about 3 days ago when i filled my loop and i did shake the bottle before using the coolant. As you can see there is thick white settlement stuck at the bottom (could be from it being on the shelf for a long time) of the bottle as well it dripping down the bottle when i turned it over. 

20170710_214915.thumb.jpg.692ae94d498c92e6890f24c8e4952544.jpg

ok that is pretty bad. thanks for sharing ill be sure not to use it.

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