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A Fate Worse Than Abort, Retry, Ignore

Welp, I think I inadvertently gave my pc a fatality while doing some cable management and routine air dusting to my recently modded system. I made sure to keep myself grounded, hardware was plugged into appropriate places, and I essentially minded my "p's and q's".  But when I was done, my system wouldn't post until I took out the graphics card, and when it did post I couldn't boot into Windows 10. I got the bsod saying that I had to insert installation or recovery media and shut down my system. When I  was on the bsod I kept getting error codes 0xc00000221 and 0xc0000421. I even tried repairing my original hard drive, using system restore, and other recovery tools but no luck. 

 

So I have Windows 10 Home edition installed on a new hard drive right now but I can't even get to the desktop because there was a defaultuser0 account that was automatically created. I'm trying to use the command prompt to create a user account for myself just to get in but nothing has worked so far. Earlier today I reached a level of desperation so critical that I called Microsoft Tech Support only to get a person in a foreign country. Ofc they gave me bs instructions like turn your computer on and off again and try to get to advanced boot options. (well I'm sure Microsoft has competent employees but I'm just cursed) So while I'm googling anything and everything that might potentially be phoenix down for my system I have some questions:

 

  1. Windows 10 didn't set up a new account for me and I'm stuck with the login page for the account defaultuser0. How can I get past that page and make a new account?
  2. I previously repaired some bad sectors on the hard drive that has failed. Will I be able to recover anything from that hard drive or should I just put it out of it's misery?
  3. If I can somehow get to the Windows 10 desktop, how does one reactivate their license when all traces of it are gone?
  4. What I've figured out so far is that the boot manager and kernel are fcked up. Should I just do a level 3 limit break on my system and upgrade to Ryzen 7, new motherboard, and new ram?

I don't know if this will be helpful, but I'll include my specs just in case O.< : 

Hardware: 

ASUS fm2a55 motherboard 

AMD A10-6700 apu

4GB Radeon RX 460 from XFX 

16GB Corsair Vengance DDR3 Ram (2 x 8GB)

Blu-ray player

Corsair CX750M psu (750 watt) 

6 case fans (3 are 140mm  with blue led and the other 3 are 120mm with no led)

Thermaltake commander fan controller

Coolermaster Hyper 212 Evo cpu cooler

Toshiba 1TB hard drive 7200 rpm (which I will likely bash with a baseball bat when this is all over)

Rosewill Blackhawk Gaming atx mid tower case

 

Software (from last known good configuration): 

Windows 10 Home

Adobe Creative Cloud

Photoshop

Illustrator

Dreamweaver

InDesign

Paint Tool Sai

MS Edge

Google Chrome

OBS

WTFast

Razer Cortex

Razer Synapse

Final Fantasy XIV

MS Office 365 2016 edition

iTunes

Steam

TF2

Gary's Mod

BlazBlue

LOL

Drivers for my Wacom Intuos4 (my tablet is old but gold) 

 

 

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Wait so if I didn't read wrong you installed a fresh copy of windows on a different t drive and it didn't work still? 

 

Things I'd try would be

 

 try install windows again with no other hdd in the system using a different sata port

Remove all but 1 stick of ram and repeat the process.

Clear cmos.

Try a different psu.

Try without gpu in it.

Throw it at the wall.

 

Main system:

i7 6700k @4.8ghz 1.45v

ROG Maximus Hero VIII

Gigabyte G1 980ti Sli @1500 ghz

Samsung 950 pro 512gb

16gb G.Skill Ripjawz V @3400mhz 

Corsair H115i 280mm AIO

Corsair 400c Case

Corsair RM1000i

 

Backup/Older/Toys:

Intel i3 6100 @4.6ghz 1.52v

Asrock B150M Pro4/Hyper

Intel 750 series 400gb

Radeon Rx 470 XFX

Thermaltake Water 3.0 360mm AIO 

inWin 303 case

 

AMD Phenom II x4 940 @3.9ghz 1.65v

Gigabyte 780g mobo

Corsair H100 240mm AIO

Corsair Dominiator 8gb DDR2 @1066

Evga GTX 750ti FTW @1450mhz

Thermaltake Matrix case (modded)

 

"The best way to look stylish on a budget is to try second-hand, bargain hunting, and vintage" 

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Hm... I'll try that after I get off of work tomorrow. Even though the hardware is still good I want to throw my system at the wall, it's been like this for a week. 

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Unplug your boot drive and install windows to a new drive and see if that works. Also try what @RS2007GOD said

PC Specs:

CPU: Intel i9 12900K

CPU Cooler: Corsair Hydro H150i Elite Capellix

Mother Board: MSI z690 carbon WiFi

RAM: TeamSport Elite DDR5 2x16 4800mhz

Storage: 2TB Samsung 970 Plus NVMe, 240 SanDisk SSD Plus, Crucial MX300 750GB SSD

GPU: Gigabyte G1 Gaming GTX 1080 

Case: Corsair Crystal 460X

PSU: Cosrair RM850X 80+ Gold

OS: Windows 11 Home

Monitor: Acer Predator XB271HU 27" 1440p @ 165hz

Keyboard: Razer Black Widow Chroma

Mouse: Logitech G502

Sound: Sony MDR 1000x Headphones, Blue Snowball Microphone

 

Laptop Specs:

Gigabyte Aorus 15G

CPU: Intel i7 10875H

RAM: 16gb DDR4

Storage: 512gb NVMe, 1TB Crucial MX300 SATA SSD

GPU: Nvidia RTX 2070 Max-Q

 

 

 

 

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On 4/24/2017 at 10:18 PM, RS2007GOD said:

Wait so if I didn't read wrong you installed a fresh copy of windows on a different t drive and it didn't work still? 

 

Things I'd try would be

 

 try install windows again with no other hdd in the system using a different sata port

Remove all but 1 stick of ram and repeat the process.

Clear cmos.

Try a different psu.

Try without gpu in it.

Throw it at the wall.

 

So I plugged in a PNY 480GB SSD fresh from out the box on a different data connector, and I loaded the Windows 10 boot media onto another new usb. I kept both sticks of ram in there but didn't install my discreet gpu and tada! It probably worked out better this way since the os is installed on the ssd. Now I can just reinstall the not-as-important stuff on the new SATA hard drive and all that. 

 

Some of my questions still remain: can I pull anything from my hard drive that decided to take a dump?

IMG_0802.JPG

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4 hours ago, MythicRare said:

So I plugged in a PNY 480GB SSD fresh from out the box on a different data connector, and I loaded the Windows 10 boot media onto another new usb. I kept both sticks of ram in there but didn't install my discreet gpu and tada! It probably worked out better this way since the os is installed on the ssd. Now I can just reinstall the not-as-important stuff on the new SATA hard drive and all that. 

 

Some of my questions still remain: can I pull anything from my hard drive that decided to take a dump?

IMG_0802.JPG

Nice one! Yes you should be able to acess the drive from within windows. Just make sure your ssd is set as your boot drive in the bios after you plug in the drive then in windows file explorer go to D drive. It will have your old corrupt OS and all your old programs and files. If during your problems you wiped or formated the drive by mistake, or the drive is broke you will have to try use some recovery software to get what's left of the data off the drive.

Main system:

i7 6700k @4.8ghz 1.45v

ROG Maximus Hero VIII

Gigabyte G1 980ti Sli @1500 ghz

Samsung 950 pro 512gb

16gb G.Skill Ripjawz V @3400mhz 

Corsair H115i 280mm AIO

Corsair 400c Case

Corsair RM1000i

 

Backup/Older/Toys:

Intel i3 6100 @4.6ghz 1.52v

Asrock B150M Pro4/Hyper

Intel 750 series 400gb

Radeon Rx 470 XFX

Thermaltake Water 3.0 360mm AIO 

inWin 303 case

 

AMD Phenom II x4 940 @3.9ghz 1.65v

Gigabyte 780g mobo

Corsair H100 240mm AIO

Corsair Dominiator 8gb DDR2 @1066

Evga GTX 750ti FTW @1450mhz

Thermaltake Matrix case (modded)

 

"The best way to look stylish on a budget is to try second-hand, bargain hunting, and vintage" 

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Honestly, what it really seems like what happened was that you accidentaly cleared the CMOS and the BIOS switched to IDE or RAID mode instead of AHCI. That explains the BsoD on first boot. That or it switched to Legacy boot mode instead of UEFI.

 

Also, if you had Windows 10 Home activated on that PC before then it should automatically activate. If not you can call Microsoft and use their automated activation system on the phone.

My rigs:

Spoiler

NEW Ryzinator build:

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 9 3950X 8-Core Processor

Motherboard: Asus - PRIME X370-PRO ATX AM4

RAM: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-2666 @ DDR4-3066

Storage: (3x) Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5", Samsung - 960 EVO 250GB M.2-2280

PSU: Seasonic Prime TX-750

OS: Microsoft - Windows 10 Pro 64-bit

Additional fan: Noctua - NF-A14 PWM 82.5 CFM 140mm Fan

Case: Fractal Design - Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case

GPU: ASUS Radeon RX 580 Dual OC 4GB

Display: MSI 27L Optix MAG272QP @ 165Hz

 

OLD Build (SOLD):

CPU: AMD FX-6100 Motherboard: ASRock 960GM/U3S3 FX (VRM overheating, don't buy) RAM: 8GB Kingston ValueRAM GPU: Onboard ATI Radeon 3000 Graphics Case: Corsair Obsidian 500D Storage: Hitachi HDS721010CLA332 1TB, 119GB SAMSUNG MMCRE28G5MXP-0VBH1 (SSD), 465GB Western Digital WDC WD5000AZRX-00L4HB0 (SATA)  PSU: Be quiet! - Straight Power 10 400 Watt Cooling: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO OS: Windows 10 Pro x64 

 

Retro gaming build:

CPU: Intel Pentium 3 Coppermine @ 800MHz Motherboard: Asus P2B i440BX BIOS 1012 FSB: 133 MHz RAM: 1x 128MB Hynix PC133 SDR SDRAM GPU: ATi Radeon 9200 256MB AGP Case: Full Tower case (unbranded) Storage: CompactFlash card to IDE converter (16GB card) Sound Card: Aztech 2320 ISA Cooling: Stock heatsink fan OS: Windows 98 Second Edition

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