Jump to content

I think I just killed my 1080

Azrael2k8

Hi,

 

so I was just about to install the last parts of my water cooling setup including the EK-FC1080 GTX JetStream - Acetal+Nickel for my Palit 1080 GameRock. After installing everything and filling the loop I could not get a picture. I switched to onBoard graphics and everything booted normally however the bios did not show my GPU. I rebooted several times but nothing changed. So I removed the GPU from the loop and reinstalled the Stock fan and backplate. Nothing changed. I also switched to my second PCIe Slot without any changes. It worked perfectly before. The LED do light up upon start and whilst running the GPU. Just no output.

 

I triple checked the power cables which are plugged in fine. The card worked fine before and I did not handle it bad. I only changed the thermal paste (using the one EKWB provided with the waterblock).

 

I am slowly accepting that this card is damaged. However is there anything I could do?

 

Thanks

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Check if changing slots fixes the problem (unless it's a hard pipe setup)

Otherwise any further damage is best left to the professionals at palit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

You have to be careful when fitting the blocks, they aren't perfect sometimes and can cause shorts on the card, I spotted it on one of my old 970's.

 

Just put it back together, clear the cmos make sure the PCIE power cables are fully connected and try again

 

Ryzen Ram Guide

 

My Project Logs   Iced Blood    Temporal Snow    Temporal Snow Ryzen Refresh

 

CPU - Ryzen 1700 @ 4Ghz  Motherboard - Gigabyte AX370 Aorus Gaming 5   Ram - 16Gb GSkill Trident Z RGB 3200  GPU - Palit 1080GTX Gamerock Premium  Storage - Samsung XP941 256GB, Crucial MX300 525GB, Seagate Barracuda 1TB   PSU - Fractal Design Newton R3 1000W  Case - INWIN 303 White Display - Asus PG278Q Gsync 144hz 1440P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ow. Generally when there's a problem with a GPU it just won't POST, it's worth looking at your thermal paste application to see if any paste got around the sides of the GPU and shorted something on the card (thermal paste can be conductive).

 

But if it's not showing anywhere, I'm afraid it's dead. You could contact Palit and see if they'll RMA it, or you could look locally for a computer parts repair shop and see if they have a BGA reflow machine and are willing to try to fix your card for less than its price.

We have a NEW and GLORIOUSER-ER-ER PSU Tier List Now. (dammit @LukeSavenije stop coming up with new ones)

You can check out the old one that gave joy to so many across the land here

 

Computer having a hard time powering on? Troubleshoot it with this guide. (Currently looking for suggestions to update it into the context of <current year> and make it its own thread)

Computer Specs:

Spoiler

Mathresolvermajig: Intel Xeon E3 1240 (Sandy Bridge i7 equivalent)

Chillinmachine: Noctua NH-C14S
Framepainting-inator: EVGA GTX 1080 Ti SC2 Hybrid

Attachcorethingy: Gigabyte H61M-S2V-B3

Infoholdstick: Corsair 2x4GB DDR3 1333

Computerarmor: Silverstone RL06 "Lookalike"

Rememberdoogle: 1TB HDD + 120GB TR150 + 240 SSD Plus + 1TB MX500

AdditionalPylons: Phanteks AMP! 550W (based on Seasonic GX-550)

Letterpad: Rosewill Apollo 9100 (Cherry MX Red)

Buttonrodent: Razer Viper Mini + Huion H430P drawing Tablet

Auralnterface: Sennheiser HD 6xx

Liquidrectangles: LG 27UK850-W 4K HDR

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

19 minutes ago, stealth80 said:

You have to be careful when fitting the blocks, they aren't perfect sometimes and can cause shorts on the card, I spotted it on one of my old 970's.

 

Just put it back together, clear the cmos make sure the PCIE power cables are fully connected and try again

I know this is a noob question but how do I clear the CMOS?

17 minutes ago, Energycore said:

Ow. Generally when there's a problem with a GPU it just won't POST, it's worth looking at your thermal paste application to see if any paste got around the sides of the GPU and shorted something on the card (thermal paste can be conductive).

 

But if it's not showing anywhere, I'm afraid it's dead. You could contact Palit and see if they'll RMA it, or you could look locally for a computer parts repair shop and see if they have a BGA reflow machine and are willing to try to fix your card for less than its price.

Since I already had it removed no thermal paste was outside what I consider as the gpu. I mean the thermal past was besides the silver cover of the gpu but so was the factory thermal paste and I think that how it should be with GPUs as far as I know.

 

Btw. EKWB states that it is non-conductive "This Low Viscosity and Electrically Non-Conductive thermal compound makes each application trouble-free and failsafe." (https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-tim-ectotherm-5g)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I just unscrewed it all again and reapplied the thermal paste as well as check the PCB. Can anyone see anything on the pictures what I might have screwed up?

 

Those pictures show the old thermal paste, the cleand GPU and the new thermal paste.

 

DSCN0417.JPG

DSCN0418.JPG

DSCN0419.JPG

DSCN0421.JPG

DSCN0423.JPG

DSCN0424.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Erm that was a LOT of paste, I use a piece clingfilm over my finger, put a small pea dab on and smooth it over using the covered finger, get it nice and flat and you don't have to worry about the exploding sandwich!

 

To clear the CMOS, there will be a jumper or a switch on your motherboard

 

Ryzen Ram Guide

 

My Project Logs   Iced Blood    Temporal Snow    Temporal Snow Ryzen Refresh

 

CPU - Ryzen 1700 @ 4Ghz  Motherboard - Gigabyte AX370 Aorus Gaming 5   Ram - 16Gb GSkill Trident Z RGB 3200  GPU - Palit 1080GTX Gamerock Premium  Storage - Samsung XP941 256GB, Crucial MX300 525GB, Seagate Barracuda 1TB   PSU - Fractal Design Newton R3 1000W  Case - INWIN 303 White Display - Asus PG278Q Gsync 144hz 1440P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, stealth80 said:

Erm that was a LOT of paste, I use a piece clingfilm over my finger, put a small pea dab on and smooth it over using the covered finger, get it nice and flat and you don't have to worry about the exploding sandwich!

 

To clear the CMOS, there will be a jumper or a switch on your motherboard

Ok, I just did as much as it was when it came from Palit. Apparently they put a lot on there.

 

Edit: I also reset CMOS but the card is still not recognized. I guess I screwed up. Let's see when I can get a replacement.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Don't think a bad TIM job would kill it. See if there's anything else like shorting or uneven pressure from the block to pcb.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Good god that's a lot of paste.....that would cause higher temps.

Not going to kill the GPU, but....I'd scale back....a LOT, for next time.

CPU: Ryzen 1600X @ 4.15ghz  MB: ASUS Crosshair VI Mem: 32GB GSkill TridenZ 3200
GPU: 1080 FTW PSU: EVGA SuperNova 1000P2 / EVGA SuperNova 750P2  SSD: 512GB Samsung 950 PRO
HD: 2 x 1TB WD Black in RAID 0  Cooling: Custom cooling loop on CPU and GPU  OS: Windows 10

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Before you guys kill me but would it be a option to start the card without any cooling for like 10-20 seconds? that would certainly erase any shortening issues and it should not overheat that quick?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, Azrael2k8 said:

Before you guys kill me but would it be a option to start the card without any cooling for like 10-20 seconds? that would certainly erase any shortening issues and it should not overheat that quick?

I think it would be fine to try to get it to post but no longer 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

16 minutes ago, Kd4lif3 said:

I think it would be fine to try to get it to post but no longer 

Thanks, if someone else could confirm this i will probably try this tomorrow. It would be a shame if i actually damaged the card so much that i can throw it to waste...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Since I could not relax without checking it. I stripped the card naked (no backplate, no cooler, no screws in the IO shield) and installed it very careful. I booted it up but the motherboard did not detect it. I guess this means I bricked it for good when installing the water cooler.

 

This makes me wonder that if I get another card to replace and try to mount the same waterblock on it, will it just break again?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a hard time believing that an EK block would cause a problem without user error playing a role.

CPU: Ryzen 1600X @ 4.15ghz  MB: ASUS Crosshair VI Mem: 32GB GSkill TridenZ 3200
GPU: 1080 FTW PSU: EVGA SuperNova 1000P2 / EVGA SuperNova 750P2  SSD: 512GB Samsung 950 PRO
HD: 2 x 1TB WD Black in RAID 0  Cooling: Custom cooling loop on CPU and GPU  OS: Windows 10

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, Vellinious said:

Good god that's a lot of paste.....that would cause higher temps.

Not going to kill the GPU, but....I'd scale back....a LOT, for next time.

luke made a video showing that more thermal paste doesn not insulate it, as the weight of the cooler often flattens it out

13700k, 3070, 32GB@3200

                   

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Too much paste can and will cause additional heat.  The paste is just there to fill in imperfections in the block and the IHS, nothing more.

lol

CPU: Ryzen 1600X @ 4.15ghz  MB: ASUS Crosshair VI Mem: 32GB GSkill TridenZ 3200
GPU: 1080 FTW PSU: EVGA SuperNova 1000P2 / EVGA SuperNova 750P2  SSD: 512GB Samsung 950 PRO
HD: 2 x 1TB WD Black in RAID 0  Cooling: Custom cooling loop on CPU and GPU  OS: Windows 10

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, stealth80 said:

Erm that was a LOT of paste, I use a piece clingfilm over my finger, put a small pea dab on and smooth it over using the covered finger, get it nice and flat and you don't have to worry about the exploding sandwich!

 

To clear the CMOS, there will be a jumper or a switch on your motherboard

Putting a lot of paste on the gpu is actually recommended (as long as it is non conductive). CPUs use heatspreaders to spread out the heat and protect the die. GPUs on the other hand have the silicon exposed, so you're basically cooling the die directly. That the reason why nobody delids a GPU :P.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

So i just order a palit 1070 Jetstream since this was really demotivating and i just spent a lot in the Custom loop. My waterblock is also Designed to fit the 1070.

 

I really fear of killing the second card with this waterblock. Do you guys think i should try installing it? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, Vellinious said:

Good god that's a lot of paste.....that would cause higher temps.

Not going to kill the GPU, but....I'd scale back....a LOT, for next time.

2 hours ago, Vellinious said:

Too much paste can and will cause additional heat.  The paste is just there to fill in imperfections in the block and the IHS, nothing more.

lol

Not really check this out:

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, FTL said:

Putting a lot of paste on the gpu is actually recommended (as long as it is non conductive). CPUs use heatspreaders to spread out the heat and protect the die. GPUs on the other hand have the silicon exposed, so you're basically cooling the die directly. That the reason why nobody delids a GPU :P.

I'm well aware of that fact thank you lol

 

However, I'm not sure the paste should be in all those contacts/pins (if they are) around the chip

 

Ryzen Ram Guide

 

My Project Logs   Iced Blood    Temporal Snow    Temporal Snow Ryzen Refresh

 

CPU - Ryzen 1700 @ 4Ghz  Motherboard - Gigabyte AX370 Aorus Gaming 5   Ram - 16Gb GSkill Trident Z RGB 3200  GPU - Palit 1080GTX Gamerock Premium  Storage - Samsung XP941 256GB, Crucial MX300 525GB, Seagate Barracuda 1TB   PSU - Fractal Design Newton R3 1000W  Case - INWIN 303 White Display - Asus PG278Q Gsync 144hz 1440P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, Azrael2k8 said:

 

 

 

DSCN0418.JPG

 

 

 

DSCN0424.JPG

@FTL

 

The pins above are what I'm referring to, ive always made sure there is no paste in those pins

 

Ryzen Ram Guide

 

My Project Logs   Iced Blood    Temporal Snow    Temporal Snow Ryzen Refresh

 

CPU - Ryzen 1700 @ 4Ghz  Motherboard - Gigabyte AX370 Aorus Gaming 5   Ram - 16Gb GSkill Trident Z RGB 3200  GPU - Palit 1080GTX Gamerock Premium  Storage - Samsung XP941 256GB, Crucial MX300 525GB, Seagate Barracuda 1TB   PSU - Fractal Design Newton R3 1000W  Case - INWIN 303 White Display - Asus PG278Q Gsync 144hz 1440P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

23 minutes ago, stealth80 said:

@FTL

 

The pins above are what I'm referring to, ive always made sure there is no paste in those pins

Just for your information, the first image is the thermal paste that was applied by palit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

17 minutes ago, Azrael2k8 said:

Just for your information, the first image is the thermal paste that was applied by palit.

Ye I know, I have a Gamerock Premium 1080 and it was the same when it took the cooler off, I never had mine powered up with the stock cooler fitted as it went straight on water

 

Ryzen Ram Guide

 

My Project Logs   Iced Blood    Temporal Snow    Temporal Snow Ryzen Refresh

 

CPU - Ryzen 1700 @ 4Ghz  Motherboard - Gigabyte AX370 Aorus Gaming 5   Ram - 16Gb GSkill Trident Z RGB 3200  GPU - Palit 1080GTX Gamerock Premium  Storage - Samsung XP941 256GB, Crucial MX300 525GB, Seagate Barracuda 1TB   PSU - Fractal Design Newton R3 1000W  Case - INWIN 303 White Display - Asus PG278Q Gsync 144hz 1440P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

16 minutes ago, stealth80 said:

Ye I know, I have a Gamerock Premium 1080 and it was the same when it took the cooler off, I never had mine powered up with the stock cooler fitted as it went straight on water

Ah OK, well then wish me luck i dont damage the 1070...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×